In this article, we use so-called affiliate links. With every purchase through these links, we receive a commission from the merchant. All relevant referral links are marked with . Learn more.
The summer of 2022 was long, hot and dry. As a result, many e-mountain bikers certainly clocked up a lot of kilometres and metres in altitude. That leaves its mark: good and not so good. On the plus side, there is better fitness, lots of great impressions and enjoyable hours in the saddle. On the negative side, however, the e-MTB has lost ground. That's why you should treat your e-bike to an autumn inspection - regardless of whether it's going into the winter break or the tough winter months. And every hobby mechanic can easily do this themselves. With our 10-point plan and the helpful tips that we present to you below.
The 10-point plan for the do-it-yourself autumn inspection of your e-bike:
1 - Washing: First wash, then screw, then lubricate. This is the correct sequence. Don't use the steam jet. The more parts you remove from the bike, the more thoroughly you can clean it with a brush, sponge and hose. You will need: 1 bucket of hot water, 1 bike shampoo, 1 brush and the good old garden hose.
2 - Brake pads: A lot of metres downhill are reflected above all in the brakes. And on the e-MTB anyway: e-mountainbikes are heavier and the tyres are generally extremely stable and offer enormous traction - especially when braking. As a result, the brake pads on e-MTBs wear out much faster than on most normal mountain bikes. The pads should be replaced at the latest when they are 1 mm thick. You don't need many tools for this: a small Screwdriver or Allen key to remove the locking pin, press the Tyre lever to push back the brake pistons - nothing more is required. Time required: 10 minutes per brake.
3 - Tyres: The tyres have taken you over smaller and larger obstacles without complaint. Rocky terrain is particularly hard on tyres. The tyre check is not just about tread depth. Keep a close eye on your tyres now to see if there are any lugs coming off, cracks or scuff marks in the carcass. If this is the case, it's time to replace the tyres. You will need the following tools: 2 tyre levers, an Allen key for the thru axles if necessary, a pump, a new inner tube or sealant. Time required: 15-20 minutes per tyre.
4 - Drive: On an E-MTB, the drive components wear out quickly due to the high forces, especially when shifting gears. The chain and the small sprockets are usually the fastest to wear out. The chain should be replaced if it is more than 0.5 % elongated. Typical with sprockets: broken teeth, burrs, shark teeth. With Shimano cassettes you can replace the small sprockets individually, with Sram the whole cassette is due for replacement. Tools: Chain gauge, Chain riveters, Cassette puller, Chain whip. Time required: chain change 15 minutes, cassette change or change of individual sprockets (Shimano) 30 minutes.
5 - Circuit: If the derailleur rattles and the derailleur cage is no longer in balance - then autumn is the right time to fix it. On tour, the derailleur hanger can be straightened with an Allen key if necessary. However, you need a special derailleur hanger gauge to realign it accurately. If the derailleur hanger has already been straightened several times, it is advisable to change it anyway - otherwise there is a risk that it will break off on the next tour. After replacing the derailleur hanger, you will need to readjust the derailleur. Tools: large Allen key, small Allen key or Phillips screwdriver. Time required: about 30 minutes.
6 - Tax rate: Not always immediately noticeable in rough trail use: The headset has play. Before the bearings are damaged by imbalance, tighten the headset again and take the opportunity to clean it and apply a fresh grease pack. Tools: Allen key, Bearing grease. Time required: 20 minutes.
7 - Bearing: The rear triangle, shock and wheels are fitted with industrial bearings. If these bearings have play, make noises or no longer rotate without resistance, they should be replaced. It takes a lot of time to replace the rear suspension bearings, as the frame of the e-bike has to be largely dismantled. The ratchet box contains everything you need to tap the bearings in and out. Tool: Ratchet box, for the rear wheel a Cassette puller and a Chain whip necessary. Time required: rear end approx. 2 hours, wheels approx. 1.5 hours.
8 - Impeller: Spoking wheels is a job for the professionals. Even amateurs can get a figure eight out of the wheel. If you don't have a truing stand, two cable ties will do. Attach them to the fork legs or the rear triangle on both sides at the exact height of the rim. Then shorten the cable ties so that the ends are a few millimetres away from the rim flanks. This allows you to check whether the wheel has a figure of eight. You can get rid of slight lateral run-out by tightening the spoke on the opposite side. Proceed discreetly: Quarter turns. Tool: depending on the manufacturer Nipple clamp in the appropriate width or special socket spanners. Centring standmobile centring aid or simply 2 Cable ties. Time required: 15-20 minutes per wheel.
9 - Electronics: There is little for DIY enthusiasts to do with the electronics. However, make sure that all contacts are clean and dry before winterising: Battery, display holder, display connectors, charging socket. Preserve the contacts with contact spray. Time required: 10 minutes.
10 - Battery: The e-bike battery needs a well-tempered place in winter. Charge your battery to 50-70 per cent before winter storage and, if possible, store it where it is at room temperature throughout.
Work for professionals: servicing disc brakes and suspension forks
If you don't have any special tools at home and have little experience, it's better to call in a specialist for more complex maintenance work on your e-MTB. The necessary tools often cost a good portion of what the bike specialist wants for this work. You can find lots of good tips on how to find and recognise a good workshop in this article.
1 - Suspension fork/damper service: You should at least have a small service carried out once a year. This involves replacing the oil in the dip tubes (fork) or the air chamber (damper) and the main seals of the suspension. The suspension then works more sensitively again and wear is minimised. With a little skill, you can do this yourself. The major service is carried out by the manufacturer. Costs for shock absorber/fork: approx. 150 euros each. It can still lead to longer waiting times because the manufacturers themselves are struggling to procure parts.
2 - Bleed the disc brakes: Over time, hydraulic brakes can draw in air or moisture. The system must then be bled or the brake fluid replaced. With a little skill and the right bleeding kit (approx. 20 - 70 euros) for the respective brake, you can do this work yourself. If seals or lines need to be replaced, it becomes more complicated. And ultimately, brakes are highly safety-relevant components that should not be "tinkered with". Professional costs for this work: 20-30 euros per brake, depending on the work involved.
Josh Welz
Editor-in-Chief
