If you ride your bike for a long time, you are acting sustainably and protecting the environment and your wallet in equal measure. But for the mountain bike itself, the sport is material-murdering - not only, but especially in wet conditions and particularly in winter. But dust and dry conditions also have their pitfalls.
Here we show you the 6 main opponents in the fight against wear and tear and equip you with the most important tips to counter them - so that you can enjoy your mountain bike for as long as possible.
Material killer no. 1: Winter
If you want to do something good for yourself, cycle through the winter. But be careful when it freezes! The risk of painful slips increases. But even without a fall, there is another danger lurking for bicycles on winter roads - road salt.
Mountain biking in winter: By far the worst enemy of metal parts lurks in the dark season. Road salt on the road, the ultimate killer, increases the electrical conductivity of water (see also Offender no. 4) and ignites the corrosion turbo. The salt solution corrodes all metals within hours, not just the steel in the chain. The only exceptions are corrosion-resistant titanium and stainless steel.
Magnesium on mountain bike forks crumbles, aluminium blooms, paint flakes off, supports jam, even in carbon frames. Bike care in winter is therefore particularly important and salt must be removed immediately after the tour. To do this, rinse gently with water, rub dry, maintain the chain and store the bike in a dry and preferably well-ventilated place.
Material killer no. 2: Dirt
A well-founded truism: maintenance helps to prevent premature wear. And a clean bike simply lasts longer. But what would mountain biking be without dirt splashes? Exactly. All it takes is a few simple steps and mud puddles lose their horror.
Wash the dirt off your mountain bike: Why does a clean bike last longer? Because it dries faster. This is because dirt stores moisture, the breeding ground for corrosion. However, the bike does not always have to be completely rinsed to clean it. With well-impregnated bikes, it is sufficient to simply wipe off the fresh dirt with a cloth.
In particular, dirt should be removed from the sensitive sliding surfaces of the suspension elements and telescopic seat posts before it becomes encrusted. Otherwise the next stroke will push it mercilessly against the seals - and underneath them too. The same applies to dust, whether from the Sahara or not. The fine grains of dust penetrate every crevice and attract air humidity like little magnets. And the film of moisture opens the door to corrosion.
Speaking of washing: Your clothes will also thank you with a longer life if you look after them properly. The right method is important when washing functional clothing. This is because different treatments are required depending on the membrane and impregnation. And another tip: let coarse dirt dry and brush it off before washing, then the washing machine will also last longer - dirt also supports the next culprit: the Friction.
Material killer no. 3: Friction
Without friction, there is no wear. That's why it's important to preserve suppleness and thus minimise material abrasion in moving parts on the bike.
Stay supple - Only friction causes material abrasion. But it's about more than just lubricating the chain. The small service for forks and dampers is also worthwhile - anyone can do it themselves. The old oil removes dirt and abrasion from the inside, which only promotes wear. New seals prevent dirt and moisture from penetrating.
Cleats and MTB pedals harmonise better with occasional splashes of silicone or penetrating oil. High-quality, circularly rolled shift cables last longer than simple cables where the outer strands are left raw. Stainless steel cables are more resistant to corrosion than galvanised steel cables. Shifter cables slip more smoothly through the outer sheaths with a dash of Teflon spray.
Shock absorbers, suspension forks or telescopic seat posts work longer and more reliably if the sliding surfaces Protected from dirt bombardment for example through mini mudguards. Dried dirt in particular attacks the seals and migrates underneath them. Rinse off fresh mud or at least wipe it off. This also applies to dust. It doesn't matter whether it comes from the Sahara and falls from the sky or from the cellar ceiling, is collected from the dry forest floor or - quite nastily - is whirled up on the roads in the form of dried road salt solution, s. Culprit 2: Dirt.
You can find out more about "Biking in winter" here:
Material killer no. 4: Water
Water enables metals to react with oxygen in the first place. The result: corrosion. It's best to keep your bike dry - within the limits of what our hobby offers.
Wetness protection for mountain bikes: Water is the medium that enables metals to react with oxygen from the air and thus to weather. No corrosion without water. But what would mountain biking be without rain, mud and slush? Exactly. That's why it's best to seal your bike: Install continuous cables and seal their ends with sealed caps if possible.
Grease and assembly paste prevent the ingress of water and dirt into bearings and threads. The surfaces also deserve protection. Our tip: spray wax or automotive hard wax polish, for the bicycle chain also as hot wax or with solvent from a drip bottle - impregnates surfaces and seals cracks. Treat all components with it, with the exception of brake discs, brake pads, saddle surfaces and handlebar grips.
Attention: Bicycles should never be submerged under water; no seal can withstand the water pressure. The no-go also applies to journeys through deep water where the hubs or bottom bracket of the bike are submerged. Once water has penetrated the bearing, it remains trapped in the seal and causes a veritable orgy of corrosion - lubricants can also get into the environment and pollute it.
Material killer no. 5: Power
Where brute forces reign senselessly, no structure can be formed. Said Friedrich Schiller. And indeed, the material shrinkage on bicycles shoots up massively when a lot of force is applied. The right choice of material is then crucial.
Save energy while biking means riding for longer. Heavy braking and hard acceleration with plenty of pressure on the pedals, possibly even supported by an e-bike drive - all this boosts material degradation. So: relaxed full throttle! Just like a child. Apart from scuffed rear tyres due to improper braking, wear and tear Children's bikes even if they are constructed with the lightest material. Because the acting forces simply remain below a certain level.
Tip for adults: Ride chainrings that are as large as possible, ideally made of steel! Small chainrings increase the chain forces and thus the wear of the chain massively. Regular lubrication in turn reduces frictional forces in the material. Culprit no. 3 - Friction.
Material killer no. 6: Negligence
Carelessness in dealing with your own bike material is paid for in the currency of durability.
Smart biking - You don't need an internet connection for this! What is meant is prudent tour preparation. This helps to protect your equipment. For example, the correct air pressure reduces tyre wear, and carefully braked brake pads last significantly longer.
The choice of material for the desired area of use also determines durability and service life, avoid misuse: the all-mountain bike suffers just as much when commuting as the marathon fully in the bike park. Tip: It's better to buy a less sensitive second bike with more durable components - perhaps a Hardtail.
Sebastian Brust
Editor
