Markus Greber
· 13.10.2022
If the uphill bend is too tight to manoeuvre through, you simply overshoot the target. The frontswitch not only looks stylish, but is also not that difficult to learn.
It should be said in advance, however, that this technique involves moving away from the trail. However, you should only do this if the path is clear and you don't damage any plants or leave any other traces behind. If all this is the case, then proceed as follows:
Once you have realised that a bend is too tight for a classic cornering manoeuvre, it is best to build up an extra amount of momentum as you enter the bend. Then approach the bend in the classic manner from the outside. Instead of pulling inwards at the apex, simply continue straight on towards the embankment. The aim is to ride as far as possible into the apex fan with the rear wheel.
When the bike is on a steep uphill slope and the highest point is reached, apply both brakes. Ideally, the pedalling sequence should be coordinated so that the good foot is in front. If not, you now have a short time to readjust with half a turn of the pedals.
Now lower your upper body and simultaneously shift your centre of gravity in the new direction of travel. To do this, stretch the arm on the outside of the bend and bend the arm on the inside of the bend (see also: Frontswitch - the decisive moment). Then you pull on the handlebars, the front wheel lifts off and the bike turns back onto the trail in the new direction. Stefan demonstrates the move quite extremely here. A few degrees are often enough for a successful frontswitch.
The crux of the matter from a different perspective: here you can see Stefan stretching his arm on the outside of the bend and bending the arm on the inside at the same time. This shifts his upper body in the desired direction, and a little later he pulls the bike in. Also important: the view in the new direction of travel.
By far the most elegant way to turn a corner - the Powercurve is a show move that also makes you faster. After all, the Powercurve is a wheelie with a lean angle. With the front wheel raised, you pedal through the bend at full speed. The key to a successful power curve is once again pedal management. You also have to read the terrain very carefully to recognise the apex.
We start in E-MTB or turbo mode, aiming for the classic outside-inside-outside cornering line. Image 1 shows the approach as far out as possible. The view is towards the apex, the handlebars are slightly turned in. The good foot is still in front. Stefan now enters the apex of the bend. The bad foot is at two o'clock and ready to kick off fully. In this phase, you actively push the bike into the outside of the bend. To do this, stretch the arm on the outside of the bend and bend the arm on the inside of the bend.
This movement at the apex is better seen from the other perspective (see Powercurve: The decisive moment). Then it's time to pedal off - point of action. The rear wheel is at the apex, after half a turn of the cranks the good foot is now back in front. The front wheel is high in the air and you're heading towards the exit of the bend at full lean angle.
Stefan then turns the bike even further and has so much momentum at this stage that he effortlessly rolls over the rock in the way. In the last picture, Stefan is already starting to land again. To do so, he brings his centre of gravity forwards and the front wheel touches down on the trail a little later.
The correct gear for the Powercurve is usually 1-2 gears heavier than the ideal gear (see EMTB-Expert riding technique #01: The correct pedalling position). This allows you to get through the bend with more momentum.
Shortly before the apex of the bend, Stefan shifts his centre of gravity inwards by stretching his arm on the outside of the bend. Together with the subsequent acceleration, this creates the cornering position he needs without falling over to the inside.