A sleight of hand that has been popular for decades goes like this: Screw a Shimano XT rear derailleur onto the bike, the other components come from the cheaper shelves. It doesn't matter, the bike sells mainly through the rear derailleur. Even if this story sounds a little exaggerated. The truth is that consumers, and beginners in particular, are often triggered by dazzlers and big names. Although the Shimano XT rear derailleur is of high quality, it is ultimately just a wearing part. Much more important for longevity is the quality of the wheels, the bottom bracket and the suspension. But here too, customers are often lured by big names. After all, manufacturers such as Rockshox not only build high-end suspension forks, but also equip affordable e-mountainbikes. It is therefore worth studying the equipment lists and not being tempted by dazzlers when buying a new e-MTB. You should pay particular attention to the following components on an e-mountainbike:
The tyres
As the only point of contact with the substrate, the Tyres is responsible for several criteria when it comes to the riding behaviour of the E-MTB. Firstly: traction. Whether the bike slips when cornering off-road or retains the necessary grip depends on the carcass, the profile, the rubber compound and the air pressure. Braking forces are also transmitted more or less well. Secondly: riding comfort. A thick tyre, ridden with low air pressure, offers more comfort than a narrow tyre that has to be inflated even more. Especially on hardtails without rear suspension, the tyre can absorb a lot of shocks. Wider tyres are more comfortable. >> Here you can read a Comparative test of nine E-MTB tyre combinations
In contrast to classic bikes, e-MTBs have the great advantage that rolling resistance hardly plays a role. The impact of a solid tyre on range is minimal, especially when riding off-road. So when it comes to tyres, there's little reason not to splash out. Solid tyres with a width of 2.4 inches, preferably 2.6 inches, with stable carcasses and a thick tread pattern, improve riding enjoyment, safety and comfort enormously. And without any significant disadvantages.
The brakes
A good Disc brake can be life insurance on an e-mountainbike. Normal touring cyclists often put more strain on the material than professionals. A long descent on tarmac or gravel means more stress and heat for the brake components than some technical downhill sections. Of course, it all comes down to riding technique - good riders avoid continuous braking and decelerate short, hard and mainly via the front brake. That's why a stable disc brake is also important for beginners and less experienced riders. Rim brakes are a thing of the past, nowadays disc brakes are the standard. Disc stoppers are available with two or four pistons per brake calliper. Four-piston brakes are much more stable, but are only used in the price categories from 4000 euros upwards. Large brake discs are already available in the lower price categories. 160 millimetre discs are unsuitable for heavy-duty use, on heavy E-MTBs and especially for beginners. Fortunately, you hardly ever find 180 millimetre discs on well-equipped E-MTBs. With 200 millimetre discs front and rear, you are well equipped. Heavy riders with a penchant for long descents can now also choose from a wide range of 220 mm discs. Our test clarifies: Which is the best disc brake for E-MTBs?
The circuit
When we talk about the Circuit we are talking about the rear derailleur, the shifter, the sprocket set and the chain. The front chainring is less important on an E-MTB because, unlike some classic bikes with front derailleurs, there is no longer any chain change. Although the chainring plays a role in the gear ratio, it is less important in terms of quality and durability. We can also disregard the bottom bracket, as it is part of the e-bike motor. As I said, a rear derailleur from the Shimano XT series is all well and good, but should not play a role in the decision to buy an E-MTB. Even the favourable 12-speed gears such as a Shimano Deore or Sram NX Eagle do their job properly. You should only be careful in the lowest price categories. Very simple gears, for example from Shimano's Alivio groupset, are often fitted here. Due to their quality and low gear range, these are not suitable for tough off-road use. Make sure you have at least 11 sprockets, then the range on the e-bike is usually decent.
The translation
Even if the E-MTB is supported by a powerful motor: A small gear ratio is important for use in the mountains. And not only there: every home route has its short, crisp climbs. If the gear ratio is too high, you will descend and push, or at least be forced into power-guzzling turbo mode. The more teeth the large rear sprocket has and the smaller the front chainring, the smaller the gear ratio. But the overall gradation of the gears is also important. The more sprockets the cassette has, the finer the steps or jumps between the gears. The high-quality MTB drivetrains from market leaders Shimano and Sram have 12-speed sprocket sets in which the large sprockets are equipped with 51 (Shimano) or 52 teeth (Sram). Add to this a small chainring with 34 teeth and the gear ratio is beyond reproach. >> Here you can read how to change the gear ratio on an E-MTB.
The Vario seatpost
Anyone who has ever had a steep descent under their wheels knows that this is much safer and more controlled with a low saddle position. If you are travelling in the mountains and have long climbs, you can of course lower the seatpost for the following descent using a quick release. But what do you do if your e-MTB tour takes you over hilly terrain with constant ups and downs? We say: A dropper seatpost makes sense not only here, but everywhere. The ability to lower the saddle by remote control from the handlebars is part of the basic equipment of every E-MTB. This increases comfort, safety and riding enjoyment enormously. Of course, dropper posts are not fitted in the lower price categories. Here, you should at least look out for a quick-release saddle.
The pedals
If you come from a classic mountain bike and are used to clipless pedals, you don't have to do without them on an e-MTB. However, they are much less important on an e-bike. This is because efficient and smooth pedalling is not the top priority due to the opulent motor support. And if you want to hone your riding technique, you're better off with platform pedals anyway. The good feeling of being able to get your foot off the pedal quickly in tricky riding situations also speaks in favour of flat pedals. Disadvantage: Platform pedals are significantly wider, which increases the risk of pedal contact in technical terrain. All in all, the choice of Pedals A matter of taste. If you haven't been riding with clipless pedals for a long time anyway, we definitely don't recommend starting with them on an e-bike.
