Organic bikers usually get their riding pleasure downhill, the ascent is more a means to an end. It can also be a simple forest track, preferably not too steep. It's obvious that this doesn't place too many demands on the suspension. It's different with e-mountainbikes: the fun starts uphill. More and more e-bikers are looking for exciting, playful trails to climb. So it's no wonder that the demands on the cockpit, seating position and chassis are very complex - they have to be suitable for off-road use, both uphill and downhill. There are also individual requirements: Body weight, arm and leg length, the size of the hands and, of course, the intended area of use all play an important role. On the following pages, EMTB expert Stefan Schlie provides the most important tips for the right basic set-up. The fine-tuning then takes place step by step in practice.
Instructions for these settings on the E-MTB can be found here:
- Set the cockpit correctly
- Workshop Spacer swap
- The correct saddle position
- Adjust tyre pressure
- Tuning the chassis
Set the cockpit on the E-MTB correctly
With the right cockpit position and the right adjustment of the controls, riding is much more effortless and controlled.
Correct inclination of the brake lever
Despite sophisticated riding technique and stable brakes, a long descent can take a lot of energy. That is why it is essential to position the brake levers in the best ergonomic position. Seen from the side, your wrists should not be bent too much when braking. You should be able to draw an imaginary straight line through your forearms, handlebars and brake levers. However, the exact position is ultimately a matter of taste. If you mount the brake levers too steeply downwards (Fig. 1), you will have problems, especially on steep descents. Beginners often mount the levers too flat (Fig. 2).
Position of the brake lever
The position to the inside or outside is also decisive for control. When mountain biking, you generally only brake with your index finger. This gives the other fingers a more secure grip on the handlebars. Slide the brake so far inwards that your index finger rests on the outermost end of the lever. This gives you the most favourable leverage when decelerating, saves power and gives you a firm grip on the handlebars.
Handlebar crank on the E-MTB
Each handlebar has a more or less pronounced bend, as the view from the top of the cockpit shows. The handlebar ends can be moved downwards or upwards by twisting the handlebars in the stem. There is no standard recipe, not least because the alignment also depends on the handlebar width, seat position and arm length. Everyone has to find out by trial and error which handlebar position offers the best control and is ergonomically comfortable.
Grip width Adjust the brake lever
With most modern brakes, the grip width can be adjusted, often even with a small knurled wheel, i.e. without additional tools (Fig. 3). Depending on the size of your hands or the length of your fingers and the pressure point, you can adjust the lever closer or further away from the handlebars. This setting is also a matter of taste. Some riders like it when they can pull the brake lever almost to the handlebars. For a good standard setting, you should be able to get a good grip on the lever with the outermost part of your index finger (Fig. 4). At the same time, you should not pinch your fingers when the brake is applied (Fig. 5). Tip: Only tighten the screws that clamp the brake to the handlebars so firmly that the brake can still be turned with a little effort. In the event of a fall, only the lever will twist instead of breaking off.
Position of the support level switch on the E-MTB
The switch for the motor support should be positioned as far out as possible so that you do not have to leave the hand position when operating it. The switch usually competes with the remote lever for the dropper post. Here you have to decide which one to mount on the inside, i.e. in the pole position. Trail technicians who frequently adjust the saddle height should prioritise this.
The correct position of the gear lever
In many systems, the shift and brake levers are one unit. However, the shifting unit can be moved inwards or outwards using a screw. The tip here is also to position the shift lever as far outwards as possible so that you don't have to move your hand when shifting off-road.
Adjusting the optimum cockpit height
The cockpit height can usually be varied by a few centimetres using spacers. A higher cockpit means a slightly more upright riding position (Fig. 6). A lower cockpit, on the other hand, puts more pressure on the front wheel (Fig. 7). Sporty riders prefer to mount the handlebars a little lower for better control.
Workshop: Replacing stem spacers on an E-MTB
Don't be afraid of screwing - the spacers can be replaced quite easily, but the headset must then be readjusted. First unscrew the stem cap.
Then loosen the two clamping screws on the stem. You can now remove the stem from the steerer tube and replace the spacers. During assembly, adjust the bearing play by tightening the stem cap accordingly - just enough so that the headset bearing does not jerk, but the fork can still be turned freely.
Then tighten the stem bolts (observe the torque!). Now test the bearing play again: Hold the headset with one hand and pull the brake lever with the other. Now wiggle the E-MTB back and forth. The headset should run without play.
Correctly adjust the saddle position on the E-MTB
The position of the saddle changes the entire e-bike geometry. With a perfectly adjusted saddle, you will ride better on technical uphills. And the dropper seat post also needs to be positioned correctly.
Setting the maximum saddle height
You pedal most efficiently when your legs are almost fully extended in the lower pedalling position. If your heel is on the pedal and your leg is fully extended, the saddle height is normally correct. Before you set the maximum seat position, set the Vario seat post to the maximum extension height.
Saddle tilt note
For a good uphill riding position, it is best to lower the saddle nose by one to two centimetres. This means you won't slip backwards so easily on steep sections, you'll have a firm seat and the popometer will work better. Exceptions are Special E-MTB saddles. Their shape alone prevents them from slipping backwards.
Horizontal saddle position
The further forward you sit, the better the climbing ability of the e-mountainbike. However, too much is not good either: a sitting position that is too front-heavy can be hard on the knee joints. It's best to feel your way towards the perfect riding position for you. The frame of the saddle offers several centimetres of horizontal clearance. Simply loosen the screw(s) and move the saddle forwards or backwards.
The correct tyre pressure for E-MTBs
The correct tyre pressure has a huge impact on comfort, traction and driving safety. As little as possible, as much as necessary - you should pump your tyres according to this motto. The lower the air pressure, the better the rubber can interlock with the ground. How much pressure is necessary depends on body weight, riding style, terrain and tyre model. The bulkier and heavier the tyre, the less tyre pressure is possible. Roughly speaking, the range for modern tyres is between 1.6 and 2 bar. The front tyres are generally 0.1 to 0.2 bar lower than the rear tyres.
Set up E-MTB suspension
The adjustment options of modern e-MTB suspension are similar to those of a rally car. Suspension, damping, platform, compression and rebound need to be adjusted correctly. The following basic settings will help you get the most performance out of your suspension.
Find out the maximum spring travel
The suspension travel of the rear triangle and fork is usually known, but to measure the negative suspension travel it is important to know the exact maximum travel of the shock and fork. The only way to do this is to deflate and compress the rear triangle/fork. The rubber ring on the shock/fork then shows the maximum stroke. Cable tie method tip: The rubber ring is missing on some suspension elements. Use a cable tie to fix this.
Set SAG (negative suspension travel)
How far does the suspension dip under the rider's weight alone - this so-called negative suspension travel (SAG) is the most important parameter in suspension tuning. Depending on the area of use, it should make up around 20 to 30 per cent of the maximum suspension travel. And this is how it works: Push the rubber ring on the damper piston as far as it will go (Fig. 12).
Now carefully get on your bike. Lean against a wall or a tree (Fig. 13).
Alternatively, a second person can provide support. Rock gently to activate the suspension elements. Now descend carefully. You can now measure the "used" suspension travel (Fig. 14) and know how much of the maximum suspension travel is accounted for by the SAG.
Now use the shock pump to pump up or release air so that the shock can do its job optimally: not too hard - not too compliant.
The rubber ring on the suspension fork has also moved due to the ascent and displays the SAG value. Now proceed in the same way with the suspension fork: If the ring indicates more than 30 % utilised suspension travel, more pressure must be applied to the fork - less than 20 % indicates too much pressure. In this case, also release air via the shock pump.
Adjusting the damping on the E-MTB
The same applies to damping on an e-bike: as little as possible, as much as necessary. The damping is set correctly when the wheels always follow the bumps exactly. If the damping is too strong, the bike continues to compress and cannot rebound quickly enough on short bumps. If it is too weak, the bike becomes unstable and starts to bounce.
On modern bikes, the rebound damping (rebound speed) can be adjusted. This is usually a red adjustment wheel on the shock and suspension fork. Some manufacturers use a hare and tortoise symbol to indicate in which direction the spring deflects faster.
For the basic setting, press the fork/damper as deeply as possible into the suspension travel and then release it abruptly. If the wheels lift off the ground, the rebound speed is too fast. Turn the damping screw turn by turn until the wheels just stay on the ground. You can only experience everything else - literally. Find a test course with few but defined obstacles - a kerb, for example. Use this to feel your way towards the correct damper setting.
>> A detailed and comprehensive You can find instructions for adjusting an MTB suspension here. The instructions with valuable tips and tricks are also available as a video.
>> Read our article to find out what lighting options are available for your E-MTB - from battery-powered lamps to high beam floodlights E-bike lighting - lightshow for the trails and everyday life.
>> A simple way to make your e-mountainbike more off-road capable is to change the crank length. In the article Short e-bike cranks: tuning for off-road use we explain the conversion and its effect.
