Changing the gear ratio on an E-MTBHow to convert quickly and easily

Adrian Kaether

 · 01.07.2022

Changing the gear ratio on an E-MTB: how to convert quickly and easilyPhoto: Georg Grieshaber
Change E-MTB gear ratio: The conversion
If you want to conquer steep mountains with your e-mountainbike in an energy-saving way, you often have to adjust the chainring and cassette. We show you how to change the gearing on your e-MTB and how the conversion works.

Especially those who want to take older e-MTBs on long tours in steep terrain should take a closer look at the gear ratio. Because if you can still conquer steep climbs in Eco mode thanks to lower gears, you will save a lot of battery power. Incidentally, the conversion to lower gears is relatively harmless for private individuals from a legal point of view. Dealers should check with the bike manufacturer.

Converting the cassette on an e-bike

This is how it works: Firstly, it is best to clamp the e-MTB in the assembly stand. Be careful with carbon frames: It is better to pull out the seat post slightly and clamp it to the seat post. If you don't have an assembly stand, you can also turn the bike upside down (be careful not to scratch the display, handlebars or fittings). Shift into the heaviest gear, deactivate the clutch (Shimano) or lock the rear derailleur in the extended position (Sram). Remove the thru axle and then remove the rear wheel.

Clamping your bike in the <a href="https://www.awin1.com/cread.php?awinmid=11768&awinaffid=471469&clickref=B+Montagest%C3%A4nder&ued=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rosebikes.de%2Ffahrradzubeh%25C3%25B6r%2Fwerkzeug-und-wartung%2Fmontagest%25C3%25A4nder%2Fmontagest%25C3%25A4nder" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">mounting stand</a> * on the Vario seatpost protects the carbon frame from overloading. Caution: The clamp should of course be made of plastic so that the sliding surface of the seat post does not get scratched.Photo: Georg GrieshaberClamping your bike in the mounting stand * on the Vario seatpost protects the carbon frame from overloading. Caution: The clamp should of course be made of plastic so that the sliding surface of the seat post does not get scratched.Remove the thru axle, remove the rear wheel. With Sram, the rear derailleur can also be locked in a relaxed position.Photo: Georg GrieshaberRemove the thru axle, remove the rear wheel. With Sram, the rear derailleur can also be locked in a relaxed position.

Loosen the old cassette. To do this, insert the cassette tool into the lock nut and loosen it anti-clockwise while holding it with the chain whip. The larger the sprocket on which the chain whip rests, the better the leverage! Once the nut has been loosened, it can usually be unscrewed by hand.

With cassette tool and <a href="https://www.awin1.com/cread.php?awinmid=11768&awinaffid=471469&clickref=B+chain whip&ued=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rosebikes.de%2Fsearch%3Fq%3DKettenpeitsche" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">chain whip</a> * or <a href="https://www.awin1.com/cread.php?awinmid=11768&awinaffid=471469&clickref=B+Greifzange&ued=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rosebikes.de%2Fpark-tool-cp-12-ritzelzange-2681057" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Greifzange</a> * the cassette is released from the freewheel.Photo: Georg GrieshaberWith cassette tool and chain whip * or Greifzange * the cassette is released from the freewheel.

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The cassette can now be removed from the freewheel. The first sprockets are often not firmly attached to the rest of the cassette and should not be lost, nor should the spacer rings between the sprockets. If the cassette is firmly seated, it has usually seized into the freehub body and can be released with careful levering.

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Many cassettes consist of several individual parts. It is essential to maintain the correct sequence of sprockets and spacers.Photo: Georg GrieshaberMany cassettes consist of several individual parts. It is essential to maintain the correct sequence of sprockets and spacers.

Clean the freewheel. The freewheel must be replaced if it is badly worn, but slight notches are not a problem. Replacing the freewheel is a little more complicated with many wheel manufacturers and is a job for a specialist workshop or experienced mechanics. Exception: Microspline freewheels such as those on DT Swiss hubs. Here, the freewheel can simply be removed.

Mounting: Shimano 11- or 12-speed cassettes with standard HG or Microspline freewheel

Always grease the freewheel to prevent it from cracking, then fit the new cassette. Pay attention to the asymmetrical grooves in the freewheel and align the cassette accordingly. The easiest way is to align the widest groove on the freewheel upwards and position the cassette here. Then push the cassette onto the freewheel as far as it will go and screw in the lockring by hand.

Be sure to grease the freewheel before fitting the cassette.Photo: Georg GrieshaberBe sure to grease the freewheel before fitting the cassette.The gearing on the freewheel is not symmetrical! Take a close look to prevent incorrect mounting of the cassette.Photo: Georg GrieshaberThe gearing on the freewheel is not symmetrical! Take a close look to prevent incorrect mounting of the cassette.

Mounting cassette with Sram XD freewheel

Grease the thread and teeth generously, as grease-free XD freewheels from Sram tend to crack. Then fit the cassette and turn it until it can be pushed onto the grooves. Then screw on the lockring by hand. Note: Some cassettes for XD driver bodies, for example from E-Thirteen, must be fitted in two steps with a separate lockring. Normal Sram cassettes, however, are fitted in one piece.

The Sram XD freewheel in particular should be generously greased.Photo: Georg GrieshaberThe Sram XD freewheel in particular should be generously greased.

Tighten the lockring to the specified torque (usually over 30 Newton metres). Then refit the rear wheel.

The cassette is tightened again using the cassette tool. With a torque spanner, you do not exceed the 30 Nm usually required.Photo: Georg GrieshaberThe cassette is tightened again using the cassette tool. With a torque spanner, you do not exceed the 30 Nm usually required.

Converting the chainring ratio on an E-MTB

Fitting a chainring with direct mount

To change the gear ratio on the chainring of your E-MTB, you need a new chainring. The first step is to remove the chain from the chainring. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the chain guide. However, if you can remove the chain despite the chain guide, you should leave it at that, as some chain guides are fiddly to fit.

First remove the chain. This often requires the chain guide (if present) to be loosened.Photo: Georg GrieshaberFirst remove the chain. This often requires the chain guide (if present) to be loosened.

Dismantle the crank on the drive side. For some cranks (e.g. Sram), an 8 mm Allen key is sufficient to press the crank off the shaft. For other cranks, you will need a press-out tool suitable for your crank.

Use the press-out tool or a hexagon socket spanner to remove the crank.Photo: Georg GrieshaberUse the press-out tool or a hexagon socket spanner to remove the crank.

The lock nut of the direct mount chainring is now exposed and you can remove it. Unfortunately, this often requires another special tool. Common systems are available from Bosch and Shimano, for example, but some chainrings can also be removed using classic bottom bracket tools. Attention, screwdriver tipThe lockring of the chainring has a left-hand thread, so it is loosened in a clockwise direction. The best way to do this is to apply the tool and prevent the rear wheel from turning by applying the rear brake.

Use a suitable tool to loosen the chainring lock nut.Photo: Georg GrieshaberUse a suitable tool to loosen the chainring lock nut.

If the chainring is loose, it can be removed and replaced with the new chainring. The mount for the chainring should be cleaned and generously greased afterwards to avoid cracking noises. The tightening torque should also be observed here during assembly. The left-hand crank helps to counterhold the lockring so that it can be tightened accordingly. The right-hand crank can then be refitted and tightened. It goes without saying that the angle between the two cranks must be exactly 180 degrees. In the final step, replace the chain and fit the chain guide.

The new chainring is fitted to the greased shaft.Photo: Georg GrieshaberThe new chainring is fitted to the greased shaft.

Fitting a chainring with spider

With the Spider - the chainring is mounted on the arms of the crank with bolts - the assembly for converting the gear ratio is slightly different. First, however, the chain must be removed from the chainring. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the chain guide. If the chain can be removed despite the chain guide, the guides should remain on the bike because they are often impractical to fit.

Loosen the chain guide and remove the chain.Photo: Georg GrieshaberLoosen the chain guide and remove the chain.

Use a suitable Allen key - usually five millimetres - and a second Allen key or a special chainring spanner to loosen the screw connections between the spider and the chainring. Put the bolts safely to one side. Then remove the chainring from the spider and thread it over the crank. The new chainring can then simply be fitted in place of the old chainring. Screwdriver tipNote the direction of rotation. The lettering on the chainrings usually belongs on the outside, the inside is often kept simpler.

The chainring bolts can be loosened with two Allen keys. The rear Allen key is only used to hold the chainring.Photo: Georg GrieshaberThe chainring bolts can be loosened with two Allen keys. The rear Allen key is only used to hold the chainring.As soon as the bolts are loosened, the chainring can be removed from the crank.Photo: Georg GrieshaberAs soon as the bolts are loosened, the chainring can be removed from the crank.

Screw on the new chainring and tighten it according to the specified tightening torques. Put the chain back on and, if necessary, return the chain guide to its original position. This is how easy it is to fit a different gear ratio to the chainring.

Finally, put the chain back on and fit the chain guide.Photo: Georg GrieshaberFinally, put the chain back on and fit the chain guide.

>> A simple way to make your e-mountainbike more off-road capable is to change the crank length. In the article Short e-bike cranks: tuning for off-road use we explain the conversion and its effect.

>> When converting to a smaller chainring, the gears sometimes have to be readjusted. In Adjusting the MTB gears: In 5 simple steps you will learn all the tips you need to do this quickly.

>> >> For all those who have installed or upgraded a new Sram AXS, we show in Sram AXS: This is how easy it is to set up the electronic gearstick Everything from the first pairing of the components to the firmware update.

Adrian Kaether's favourite thing to do is ride mountain bikes on bumpy enduro trails. The tech expert and bike tester knows all about Newton metres and watt hours, high and low-speed damping. As test manager at MYBIKE, Adrian also likes to think outside the box and tests cargo bikes and step-through bikes as well as the latest (e-)MTBs.

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