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Insert a new inner tube, inflate and you're done. Sure, changing the inner tube is quick and easy to fix a flat tyre. But what about a world in which it happens much less often, the tyre is lighter and its rolling characteristics are significantly better? There is: convert tyres to tubeless!
Tubeless tyre fitting is not a particularly glorious or complicated job, but it is all the more important in everyday biking. The reasons for riding your mountain bike tubeless are obvious: despite lower air pressure, puncture resistance is increased, weight is saved and tyre grip is improved. Almost all high-quality mountain bike tyres can be easily converted with our tips and the right tubeless sealant.
And if you prefer to stick with butyl sausages, we have a few more below. Tips for changing the bicycle inner tube.
Can any rim be converted to tubeless? Are my MTB tyres suitable?
Before you convert your bike to tubeless, there are two things to consider:
1. are my MTB tyres tubeless-compatible? Are they even suitable for riding without an inner tube? The question about the tyres can be answered quickly by looking at the sidewalls. All major manufacturers such as Schwalbe, Maxxis, Kenda or Specialized print their tubeless-compatible tyres with a corresponding logo. Terms such as Tubeless-Easy, Tubeless-Ready or Tubeless-Race (often just the abbreviation TR) indicate that this tyre can be ridden without a tube in conjunction with a sealant.
2. can the Rims of my wheels converted to tubeless be? When it comes to rims, the question is usually not quite so easy to answer. Tubeless-compatible rims always have a narrow, deep rim well. Between the rim flanks and the deep rim well, the rim flange must be significantly raised to ensure a tight and, above all, tight fit of the tyre on the rim. All high-quality wheels on current mountain bikes are generally suitable for tubeless operation. For older models, however, it is worth taking a quick look at the manufacturer's website to check whether my rim model can be converted to tubeless.
Converting MTB tyres to tubeless: the video guide
What do I need for tubeless conversion & fitting?
Which sealing milk is the best?
Durability, sealing holes or environmental compatibility: not all milk is the same. That is why we have 9 tubeless sealants tested. The detailed test can be found here.
Step 1: Check the rim tape or glue in a new one
Converting tyres to tubeless requires a special, sealed rim tape. The good news is that many manufacturers already fit such rim tapes ex works. They are labelled accordingly ("tubeless ready"). If not available, retrofit!
Step 2: Install tubeless valve
Insert the valve and screw it firmly to the rim using the knurled nut. For an optimum fit, also press the valve into the rim well from the inside when tightening. AttentionTubeless valves can have round or rectangular heads. If the head is rectangular, make sure that the long side is parallel to the running direction of the rim so that the rubber head of the valve lies as flat as possible in the rim bed.
Step 3: Mount MTB tyres, fill with sealing milk
Now mount the tyre, observing the direction of rotation (see arrow on tyre sidewall), unscrew the valve core with a valve driver (see below) and fill in the milk through the valve using a syringe or a small portioning bottle (often included in the scope of delivery). 60 millilitres should be the minimum for current tyres for (e-)mountain bikes. If you want to be on the safe side, it is better to use 90 millilitres. The Do not screw in the valve insert immediately! The tyre must first be inflated so that it sits in the rim well.
Step 4: Inflate tyres - twice
Special pumps with a compressed air reservoir or tubeless booster work best when converting to tubeless tyres. First inflate the reservoir to 8 to 11 bar, then connect the pump head to the tubeless valve. With the flip of a lever, the air suddenly escapes into the new tyre and presses the sidewalls into the rim bed. A slight popping or banging is a good sign and indicates that the tyre is securely seated in the rim well. Leave the pump head on the valve!
No tubeless pump to hand? Alternatively, you can use a compressor to inflate the tyre. Make sure that the permissible maximum pressure for tyres and rims not exceeded will. We do not recommend inflating with a normal floor pump or a CO2 cartridge. Both methods are unreliable and otherwise cause a lot of frustration and a mess in the workshop. By the way: Compressed air reservoirs are also available for retrofitting to normal floor pumps, for example from Schwalbe, Topeak or Milkit (from approx. 40 euros).
To inflate the tyre to the final pressure, you must first screw in the valve core again. To do this, prepare the valve core, remove the pump head from the valve and quickly block the air from escaping from the tyre with your finger. Then remove your finger from the valve and quickly screw in the insert. Finally, inflate the tyre to the desired pressure using the floor pump.
Step 5: Distribute milk in the tyre and check
Finally, check that the tyre is correctly seated to ensure perfect function. The guide line on the sidewall of every tubeless tyre serves this purpose. It should be the same distance from the rim everywhere. This prevents the tyre from levelling out and ensures it sits correctly in the rim flange. If necessary, you can help by increasing the air pressure until the tyre sits evenly everywhere. Attention: Here too, pay attention to the maximum pressure of the tyre and rim and do not exceed it. There is a risk of irreparable damage to carbon rims.
Changing a bicycle inner tube made easy
Okay, we haven't been able to convince you to convert to tubeless tyres yet? Then here's our guide to the age-old question of mankind: How do you change an inner tube on an MTB tyre? Perhaps at least a high-tech inner tube would be an idea for conversion: We had 14 bicycle inner tubes in laboratory and practical testsincluding some made of so-called Aerothane, TPU and classic butyl hoses.
1. After a puncture, you must first loosen the tyre completely and press it into the rim well on one side. Only then can the tyre be levered outwards over the rim flange in the next step.
2. To change the inner tube, it is sufficient to lever the tyre out of the rim on one side only. Start at the valve and work your way forward, either by pushing (image) or pulling, until the tyre bead is released from the rim.
3. Remove the defective inner tube and check the inside (by feeling with your hand) and outside of the tyre for foreign objects. Thorns, stones or similar objects must be removed before inserting the new inner tube.
4. Inflate the new inner tube slightly so that it does not become knotted or twisted and close the valve again. It should only be inflated so far that it no longer has any kinks, but can still be inserted easily.
5. Start again at the valve and insert it into the valve hole of the rim first. To prevent the valve from slipping out again, you can also secure it with the knurled nut supplied.
6. Next, carefully insert the inflated inner tube into the tyre without twisting it. When riding off-road, make sure that you do not insert any dirt or small stones that could damage the inner tube directly.
7. Now comes the all-important step in fitting the tyre: Start opposite the valve and press the tyre bead deep into the rim well. Continue to work your way towards the valve on both sides of the tyre.
8. If you press the tyre deep into the rim well and always keep it under tension when preparing the valve, the last piece will pop into the rim easily and without a tyre lever.
9. To ensure that the tyre is properly seated in the rim flange and runs perfectly straight, you may need to inflate it more. The same applies here as when converting to tubeless: Always observe the maximum permissible pressure of the tyre and rim. Excessive pressure can cause serious damage, especially to carbon rims.
Tip for emergency repairsIf you don't have a spare inner tube or repair kit with you, you can simply knot the inner tube in an emergency. To do this, cut it right at the hole and tie a double knot as close as possible. Then tighten the knot very tightly.
