Buying guide: 7 questions you should ask yourself before buying a gravel bike!

Hardly any other category of bike is growing as rapidly as the gravel bike. At the same time, more and more people new to cycling – who previously had little or nothing to do with cycling – are taking it up. That is precisely why there is a need for clarification – and this applies not only to beginners. Even die-hard mountain bikers or road cyclists often find it hard to make sense of the product categories anymore. Why is this gravel bike designed for adventure – and that one for racing or the city?

A quick guide in 7 steps

Here are the key points in a nutshell.

1. How much money do I want to spend?

It’s the classic question you’d hear from a car salesman. Just as with any major purchase, you should ask yourself this when buying a gravel bike. If you’ve no idea how much a proper gravel bike costs, let me tell you: it doesn’t have to cost more than 3,000 euros. Of course, there’s no upper limit. Particularly lightweight models offer excellent propulsion – but they’re also expensive. For every 250-gram reduction in weight, you’ll have to dig disproportionately deeper into your pocket.

2. How important is the brand to me?

Brand loyalty should not be underestimated. Which brand do I associate with a cool image? It’s even better, however, if you’re not tied to any particular brand – because then you can make real savings without having to compromise on performance. Mail-order brands such as Radon, Axcess and the like offer excellent value for money, whilst with many sought-after brands such as Specialized and the like, part of the price is simply paid for the name.

3. What can I do without in order to save money?

First things first: your gravel bike shouldn’t weigh much more than 10 kilos. Why? Click here to read the relevant article: >> The question: How heavy can a gravel bike be? <<

Anything under 8.5 kilos tends to be expensive. If you want to save money, you’re better off going for models weighing around 9 to 9.5 kilos – that’s the sweet spot. Electronic gear changes are all the rage and certainly have their advantages (but also their disadvantages). If you want to save money, it’s best to do without them – as this feature really adds to the price.

4. Do I like the cockpit?

The cockpit is the control centre – and a very personal choice. In short: you should like it. Drops, flare, narrow, wide – preferences vary widely here. That’s exactly why you shouldn’t compromise on this. Of course, you can get used to a cockpit that doesn’t feel quite right at first. Nevertheless, you should want to reach for it.

5. Should I buy from the manufacturer or a specialist retailer?

It’s a real dilemma. Of course, there are some great deals to be had at the dealer – and you get personalised advice on top of that. And if something does break, you can simply roll your bike into the shop without feeling bad about it.

On the other hand, mail-order retailers also provide good advice if you still have any questions – and service partners take care of your bike when it needs servicing or repairs. In short: with a few exceptions (e.g. Cube), mail-order retailers offer the best deals. With specialist retail brands, you get prestige and a greater sense of exclusivity in return.

>> Click here for the review of the Rose Backroad FF <<

6. Cross-country or forest track?

Much like Question 1, this one is also essential. After all, to find the right bike, you need to know what you want to use it for. If you want to tackle steep climbs, you’ll probably want to go for a double chainring setup. If you tend to stick to gentler routes and want maximum propulsion, you’re better off prioritising fast tyres. And if you want to go full throttle off-road too, you should opt for thick, comfortable tyres and a wide cockpit.

7. Speed gravel or XXL tour?

Do you want to go flat out on forest tracks and gravel with Vmax after work or at the weekend – or, more importantly, go on tours with bikepacking bags and use it to commute to work? If you’re looking for a comfortable bike suitable for touring, you don’t need to worry too much about the weight. Bikes weighing around 10 kilos are a good fit here. A nice bonus: they’re usually cheaper too. Most bikes come with mounting points for a second bottle cage and the like anyway. A slightly wider tyre also makes sense here – more volume means greater comfort thanks to better shock absorption.

On the other hand, if you see your gravel bike more as a racing machine and would prefer to ride a road bike – just on gravel – you’ll be looking for a lightweight frame, thin, fast tyres and a narrow, aerodynamic cockpit. These bikes are known as speed gravel bikes.