Trailguide Valchiavenna: The wild nature behind the Splügen Pass
Waterfalls, horses on high plateaus, lonely trail serpentines - who would have thought that you could still find so much unspoilt nature between the Engadin and Lake Como. There is even a bike park in the Italian Valchiavenna.
Text: Michael Marquardt
Dolines, sinkholes and caves are the first words you learn when you go on a tour in Valchiavenna. Especially up here on the Pian dei Cavalli, a karst landscape with funnel-shaped holes in the ground and a carpet of green alpine grass. I have to pay close attention to how I approach the next uphill serpentine trail, as the angular scree tends to tip away under the tyres.
The literal translation of this terrain is "horse plateau", but the path climbs steeply uphill for a while. Despite the e-assist, I struggle to keep up with Local Filippo, who uses every rocky outcrop along the way as a jump. The Pian dei Cavalli is also known as the "Balcony of the Splügen Valley" - and it's easy to understand why. Because we are soon climbing to an altitude of over 2000 metres and the unobstructed view over the Valchiavenna and the 3000 metre peaks of the Splügen is growing fast.
They are surprisingly lonely mountains, even though they mark the border between the Eastern and Western Alps and are in the direct neighbourhood of the tourist magnets Engadin and Lake Como. And that's exactly what excited me and my wife when we came to Valchiavenna for the first time about seven years ago.
Turn a short winter weekend into your own holiday flat
Originally, we only wanted to stay for a snowshoe weekend, but then we fell so in love with this tranquil Italian valley between the Splügen Pass and Chiavenna that we soon bought a small holiday flat here. Since then, we have been exploring this wild mountain world with all its waterfalls, mountain lakes, crotti and ancient Roman paths - and getting to know a new facet of the valley after every tour.
However, today is the first time I've ridden an e-MTB. Filippo had urged me to do so and the ascent to Pian dei Cavalli was not without its challenges. We had already climbed around 800 metres in altitude since we started in the small mountain village of Madesimo. After a short descent, we were soon climbing steadily up steep hairpin bends. A lot in the forest, but also through clearings with small hamlets and pretty farms. But once we reached the tree line, we continued on a mountain path. Continue across this, anything but flat, high plateau.
Now the trail also has tight hairpin bends. Without the motor, I would probably have given up long ago and pushed. But with the E-MTB, they are doable. At least for Filippo. However, I either have too little momentum in the trail switchbacks and simply tip over together with the bike - or too much and shoot out of control over the bends. Beginner problems that my guide has probably seen more often at this point and which are surprisingly quickly remedied thanks to his riding technique tips. Thank goodness, because there are still several hundred metres of elevation gain to go before we reach the highest point of the tour, Lago Bianco.
Until now, I only knew this tour completely in white, i.e. as a freeride tour on a snowboard. The winter season here often lasts well into spring. Then you carve your turns in the firn up here in the morning and lie down by Lake Como in the afternoon on a sunny 20-degree day. But now, at the beginning of July, the last remnants of snow have seeped into the karst soil. Lush green meadows spread out around us. By August, everything here will be covered in wildflowers.
Two more bends in the trail and then it lies quietly in its meadow bed, Lago Bianco. A few clouds are reflected in its crystal-clear waters and the summit of Monte Bardan. I'm glad that, despite the 30 degrees down in the valley, I didn't pack my swimming trunks but a warm jacket instead. The wind is really fresh, but the view is unbelievably beautiful. My eyes don't even know what to focus on first: Between the border pillars of Pizzo Tambo and Piz Por, the tarmac hairpin bends wind their way up to the Splügen Pass. Below them, the Valchiavenna plain widens out. A few hamlets can be recognised in the valley flanks, stone huts that are still used today by cattle farmers. Or have been converted into a so-called baita by people who love solitude.
The namesakes of the tour also appear
The mountain lake is now as blue as the sky above us. I can't believe that we have this natural beauty all to ourselves. "Not quite...!" says Filippo, pointing to a grassy knoll. A few Haflinger horses are indeed trotting over the hilltop and soon a small herd gathers. The animals take no notice of us, after all they are here to graze. I had hoped to see horses up here. After all, this is the "Pian dei Cavalli" - the Plain of Horses. Its pastures are still used for farming. Just like 10,000 years ago, when nomadic tribes of hunters still travelled from alpine pasture to alpine pasture in the Alps.
At least that's what researchers have discovered, having excavated a total of 15 prehistoric sites on the Pian dei Cavalli. It seems that the high plateau was already appreciated as a rewarding destination with great views back then. The ancient Romans also travelled in Valchiavenna. However, they were more interested in travelling trade routes across the Alps. Even back then, they carted goods from Venice over the Splügen Pass onwards to Chur or northwards over today's Maloja, Septimer and Julier Passes. This made the valley capital of Chiavenna an important and rich transport hub early on.
Valchiavenna has also had a well-maintained bike park since 2011
Its historic old town streets still tell of this lucrative trade route period, which lasted until the construction of the large Alpine tunnels. After that, the valley suddenly became quiet. Quiet, but not poor. Chiavenna is one of the small international towns that have joined the "Cittàslow" movement. Its concept is to slow down and focus on local cultivation and culture. To improve the quality of life in the city. Many valley residents also commute to work in nearby Switzerland every day, while the Swiss come to Chiavenna for cheap shopping. Filippo, on the other hand, had a mountain biking career in mind from an early age. Growing up in Madesimo, he followed his father out on the trails as a child. This quickly developed into a passion and he started his professional racing career at the age of 19. He travelled a lot and experienced many Alpine regions and their bike parks.
Now, 20 years later, he is delighted with the biking area on his own doorstep: "Valchiavenna is certainly not the first Google hit when you type in "mountain biking in the Alps". But where else can you ride for hours in such a landscape without meeting anyone?" Nevertheless, Filippo is also happy about the valley's own bike park and points to the Alpe Groppera plateau opposite. The cable car up there even starts in the centre of Madesimo's pedestrian zone. At the top, you have a choice: from the easy flow line to some natural steep descents. "If you're having fun on the trail down to Starleggia right now, then I'll take you to the park tomorrow. Because you need a bit of courage over there." Okay, let's go then!
What you need to know
Between the Splügen Pass, Engadin and Lake Como, Valchiavenna is often overlooked by travellers passing through. As a result, this valley has been able to preserve its original natural beauty - and build its own bike park.
The precinct
Valchiavenna is part of the Italian province of Sondrio in Lombardy and stretches in a north-south direction from the Splügen Pass almost all the way down to Lake Como. The upper section in particular, north of the main town of Chiavenna (333 m) and around the village of Madesimo (1550 m), is located away from the typical streams of tourists heading south. If you are looking for a quiet mountain experience, you will find it here up to summit altitudes of over 3000 metres. Touring bikers need to be prepared for routes with ramps, but the climbs are easily manageable with an e-MTB.
How to get there
Valchiavenna can be reached by car from Germany either via the Splügen Pass (open from May to October, depending on snow conditions) or via the Engadin and the Maloja Pass (all year round). Journey time from southern Germany approx. 5 hours. Travelling by public transport is a little more complicated: take the train to Thusis or St. Moritz and then the Swiss Postbus to Valchiavenna (reservation required for bike transport).
Tour planning
Apart from the bike park, signposted MTB trails are still being created in Valchiavenna. It is therefore advisable to download the GPS tracks in advance. Filippo's "Made for Fun" bike shop also offers guided tours.
Bike shops
- Made for Fun in Madesimo: workshop, spare parts, bike hire, riding technique workshops and guided tours. Info: madeforfunmadesimo.com
- E-bike hire: Team Adventure Madesimo in Madesimo, Info: teamadventuremadesimo.it, Powder Ski Rent, Info: powder-madesimo.com
- Bike shop in Chiavenna: Rock Bike, rockbike.it
Made Bike Park
The cable car that shuttles up to the Valchiavenna ski area takes off from the pedestrianised area of Madesimo. It is also in operation in summer and culminates at Alpe Groppera. Most of the descents in the Madesimo "Madebike Park" bike park start up there at the Larici hut (1900 m). Opening times: from 9.30 am to 5.45 pm (June and September only at weekends). Price for the day ticket: 35 euros, Info: madesimo.eu
Overnight stay and general information about the valley
There is a campsite in Campodolcino and some nice accommodation in the countryside (Alpe Motta) or directly in Madesimo. You should definitely plan a visit to Chiavenna, 20 kilometres away. The main town in the valley has an exciting historic town centre and of course plenty of good restaurants. All information about the region, with selected MTB tours, guides, accommodation addresses and tips about the region can be found on the website valchiavenna.com
The 3 top tours in Valchiavenna
In Madesimo, the tours start at an altitude of 1550 metres and climb up the steep mountain flanks in serpentines. At the top, plateaus open up on both sides of the valley with plenty of panoramic views and views of trail fun for all levels of difficulty.
BIKE subscribers can find the GPX data of the 3 tours for free download at bike-magazin.de under "My Area". Premium Plus subscribers to the tour portal will automatically find the tours in their BIKE Tour app:
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Tour 1: Alpe Groppera
- Length: 10.2 kilometres
- Uphill: 379 metres in altitude
- Trail share: 4 per cent
- Difficulty: S0-S1
Tour description
The classic tour of Valchiavenna, which is short and crisp and leads to some of the most impressive places in the area and allows a detour to the bike park: From Madesimo, the route heads south along long, asphalted serpentines up the flanks of Pizzo Groppera (2948 m). You can stop off in Motta di Sotto or follow the mountain road for another 120 metres until the forest path branches off to the beautiful Lago Azzurro in Motta di Sopra. The lake lives up to its name and shines in all shades of blue in the sunshine - perfect for a picnic. Afterwards, there are only 50 metres of elevation gain on a scenic gravel road to Alpe Groppera (1910 m). From up there, you could now descend completely on tarmac to Madesimo. Or you can take the turn-off onto the bike park trail after almost 150 metres of descent. The best option, however, is to turn off before Alpe Groppera, namely at the Baita del Sole to Ristoro Larice. All the bike park lines start there and you have a free choice of difficulty level.
Retreat: There is a small kiosk at Lago Azzurro that is open in summer. If in doubt, call in advance (Fausto, tel. 0039/338/2458157). Otherwise, you can stop off at Alpe Motto, in the hotels along the route or at the end of the tour in Madesimo.
Tour 2: Pian dei Cavalli
- Length: 37.4 kilometres
- Uphill: 1542 metres in altitude
- Trail share: 12 per cent
- Difficulty: S0-S2
Tour description
The centrepiece of the Valchiavenna. In terms of scenery alone, no other tour in the region can compete with it. To enjoy it to the full, this spectacular tour is best tackled on an e-MTB. The trail at the top of the high plateau in particular has a few tight bends and ramps, which can be ridden well and very enjoyably with a good push and good riding technique. We start with a fast descent to Ca' di Goss before the 1000 metres of serpentine ascent pile up in front of the handlebars. First on tarmac, then on forest paths and finally from Baituscio on trails - and at a constantly high percentage. You have to find your rhythm and enjoy the rapidly growing panorama. By the time you reach the Pian dei Cavalli, the "horse plateau", you have a clear view of the valley and the surrounding 3000 metre peaks. Only Lago Bianco at an altitude of 2323 metres can top this. You return to the plateau on the same trail, but then the route turns down the southern flanks of the mountain via Toiana and ends in the hairpin bends of the SS36 and the old Pianazzo road, which was also used in the 2021 Giro d'Italia.
Key points: The alpine meadow trail over the Pian dei Cavalli has a few tight turns that require good handling, especially uphill. Overall, however, the trails on the tour are easy to ride with intermediate riding technique.
Retreat: It's worth packing a snack for a long break at Lago Bianco. There are refreshment stops in the villages near the valley.
Tour 3: Via Alpe Andossi to Montespluga
- Length: 23.1 km
- Uphill: 535 hm
- Trail share: 14 per cent
- Difficulty: S0-S1
Tour description
Via Alpe Andossi up to Montespluga, the last hamlet in the municipality of Madesimo, just before the Swiss border. The level of difficulty can also be varied on this tour. From Madesimo, the route leads slightly uphill towards the end of the valley and then up the mountain flank to Alpe Andossi on a pleasant mix of forest paths at Rifugio Mai Tardi (1777 m). On this almost 2000 metre high panoramic balcony, you now cruise 12 kilometres to Montespluga, halfway around the lake and back again. Unfortunately, the road to the Splügen Pass cannot always be avoided. The descent to Madesimo has a few short climbs, but in the second half there are also some nice forest tracks.
Key points: The tour has no difficult sections worth mentioning. Rain could possibly make the forest sections a little slippery.
Retreat: Be sure to stop off at the very rustic Rifugio Stuetta on the pass road. Nice hosts, excellent food and even overnight accommodation.
