Nearly forgotten in Lombardy: A pithy lake trip - 4 trail days around Lake Idro

Lake Idro lies almost exactly in the centre of beautiful Lombardy, and yet here we find ourselves in an almost forgotten part of Italy. "I would say that this was about average in terms of the frequency of people on this route.

Florian, one of the two brothers who are showing us "their Lago" these days, smiles from under his long hair with steel-blue eyes. It is the end of September. Off-season in the tourist sense. For us: the best that autumn has to offer. The days are long enough, the temperatures mild to warm at the bottom, still perfect at the top. The landscape is early autumnal, the light as golden as only autumn can be.

We've been travelling around Lake Idro on our e-mountainbikes for two days now. On Florian's side. The two brothers have divided up the lake - we already call them "EastSide" and "WestSide". When Florian is here, he lives on the eastern shore. Stefan has a property on the west shore. The Innsbruckers have been here since childhood; their parents have been running a surf school for decades.

The days here at Lake Idro are as different as the two brothers are. Ranges of hills, forgotten villages and alpine pastures, further north high alpine biking at over 2000 metres with views of the Adamello glaciers, and a brilliant finale with delicate rock needles reminiscent of the Dolomites. Plus refreshing moments of time travel, because not everyone and everything here is chasing after the very latest developments.

Average, then. And what an average. We didn't meet a single biker or even a single person on the trails during these two days. I feel at home here, I think, and promise myself not to start this story with the often-used comparison to this lake's supposed big brother. Because - it's all very different here anyway.

Day 1: The world war work in the wrong place

We start at the southern end of the lake. After a first relaxed ascent, we stand open-mouthed in front of a veritable monster of a bunker complex. The Ex Forte Valledrane was built in 1912 - 1915 as part of the Italian defence system "Sbarramento Giudicarie" - 500 metres above Lake Idro as a difficult to overcome barrier against anything that might come from the north.

Attacks by Austrian forces had been expected, but these never materialised. Instead, the front shifted a good distance to the north and so Valledrane was literally in the wrong place. After the war, parts of the complex were converted into the "Sanatorio infantile di Valledrane", a children's sanatorium, and were thus given the task of healing instead of killing.

It's stories like these that we get to see, feel and sense every day on our Gran Giro del Idro. Stefan is our biking history book, while geographer Florian knows all the cultural and geological details.

We climb Monte Manos, the first summit of our tour. One of those cross-beams that stand alone and offer 360-degree views. From here, we can see the entire tour while the autumn sun warms us and the first tour coffee tastes good. Florian points to the striking Monte Pizzocolo in the south, the southern end of Lake Garda with the Sirmione peninsula. Our gaze wanders over the Brenta Dolomites into the Valle delle Chiese and the region around the Passo Croce Domini, where the Traversata del Orrizonte awaits us, which I am particularly looking forward to.

But now: concentrate on the climb! On the back of the Manos, a hand-width ridge path meanders through the mountain flank, garnished with hairpin bends and high stone steps. If you don't feel completely at ease here, push. Or even better: roll back down the last section of the old military path and circle the Manos. You'll be provided with plenty of trail nuggets as far as Capovalle anyway. We now enter a sparse forest and let the many hairpin bends, curves and waves carry us down into the valley.

Valvestino - Valley of the forgotten villages

In the afternoon, our route takes us right into the centre of Valvestino. Agriculture and a few handicrafts have fed the people here over the centuries. In the meantime, the forest is reclaiming large parts of the farmland, roughly to the same extent that people have left their villages. But those who have stayed are proud to be here.

We are sitting in front of the Antica Osteria Pace in Persone, our first stop. The atmosphere here is as peaceful as the name of our osteria. And as hospitable as it gets. High in calories anyway. Homemade ravioli. Polenta topped with mountain cheese. Venison and wild boar goulash. Of course, strudel and a salami di cioccolato. And a landlord who joins us with a bottle of wine. And Mum, who tells us about the history of the valley.

"In the past, the population here was Austrianand something has remained," she says. Somehow, nobody cares about these villages anyway. For Rome, they are insignificant and far away. Almost 15 years ago, the population decided in a referendum that they wanted to become part of the autonomous region of Trentino Alto Adige. An absurdity, of course. And yet Rome eventually agreed. Shortly afterwards, there was one of the many changes of government and the matter was put on ice again. And so the mayor of Valvestino travelled to Rome at regular intervals to push things forward. I'm thinking of Don Camillo and Peppone.

Day 2: Centuries-old pines & imposing cliffs

The next day. We head north and, above all, uphill. Florian promised us that the second stage would be the most varied of the whole tour, both in terms of the riding and the scenery and culture. From the wild Valvestino over steep military gravel roads to the alpine Bocca di Cablone, over challenging forest trails to the romantic Bondone, a breath of sea air on the cosy lakeside path and finally uphill flow trails to the cultural highlight of Bagolino - that's our plan for today.

We'll gain an adult 1600 metres in altitude and probably recharge the battery a little during a rest. We get closer and closer to the former border. The area seems so lonely that without the war, nobody would have had the idea of building a path or even a road here. This makes it all the more impressive to cycle through centuries-old pine trees and imposing cliffs. The last time I was in Bondone was probably almost 20 years ago. Not much has changed and that's a good thing. Full of impressions, we arrive in lively Bagolino in the evening.

Day 3: Towards the horizon and beyond

Be mindful of your battery and breath today. The route, which promises to be a highlight of this tour, runs steadily uphill and downhill along the former border ridge to the north. Sometimes on the italianon the old Austrian side. It does this at over 2000 metres above sea level, and we have to get up there first. Eco mode, in other words. Or the certainty that the heavy thing on the back is the second battery.

Again, it was military considerations that led to the creation of these trails, built to last. "In principle, everything is rideable" - provided you have uphill skills. Classic E-MTB terrain. At the latest when the mountain lakes of the "Laghetti di Bruffione" come into view on the valley side, you realise again: this is what biker heaven feels like.

During the subsequent descent, we reach Malga Bruffione, one of just over 20 mountain pastures authorised to produce Bagoss. Bagoss is the local DOC cheese, of which they are proud. The inhabitants of Bagolino - the Bagossi - once obtained the yellow gold, saffron, through their connection to Venice.

And so a little saffron is added to the milk of the Bagòss, which gives the cheese its strong, yellow colour. It is stroked and turned once or twice a week. And matures in peace. It becomes more flavoursome with every year of storage. In the end, it is a real bomb, rough like the landscape here, made as it was a hundred years ago.

Day 4: Through the Brescian Dolomites

Last day. We can feel that the three stages are already taking their toll. On paper, we're in for another tough day: 60 kilometres to Lake Idro. Above all, another 1450 metres in altitude and 2600 metres of descent.

From the Passo Croce Domini, a similar panoramic superlative awaits us as the day before, kilometres of glistening mountain lakes at an altitude of over 2000 metres, with the big difference that today we can fly along on easier terrain. The entrance to the "Dolomites" is marked by the Bivacco Tita Secchi, which is dedicated to a freedom fighter in the Second World War. With his story in mind and a dramatic scene in front of our handlebars, we feel our way down the first few hundred metres of steep and loose trail entrance. Once again, concentration is required - the path is carved directly into the rock faces and offers almost vertical views down into the depths. So it's better to stop and look, then carry on. As the sun once again pierces through the fog, we can once again catch a glimpse of Lake Garda.

It's afternoon. We rumble down the last few metres into the valley via a typical local mulatiera and roll towards Lake Idro full of impressions. At the end, we jump into the cool water. Four days lie behind us, filled with impressions that only multi-day tours in a diverse landscape can provide. In the end, we met seven hikers. And not a single mountain biker. Just average.

The tour

Lake Idro lies at an altitude of 368 metres in the Judicarias, west of Lake Garda, just 45 minutes by car from Riva del Garda. Here too, the mountains rise above the 2000 metre mark and are criss-crossed by old military trails. The difference is that you still have the trails in this remote region to yourself.

However, you should bring good fitness and riding technique for the four-day Grande Giro del Idro. The tour measures 164 kilometres in total and covers almost 6500 metres in altitude. The trails, some of which are rough and overgrown with tall grass, are technically challenging and reminiscent of the high mountains.

There are also uphill ramps that require bike control. But these are particularly fun with an e-drive. The few very rough sections can be pushed or bypassed on an easy route. Particularly charming: the rustic refreshment stops!

The 4 stages around Lake Idro

Total length: 164 kilometres / 6500 vertical metres

Stage 1: From Idro to Persone

• Length: 29.5 kilometres
• Uphill: 1550 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 1050 metres in depth
• Difficulty: 70 % easy, 20 % medium, 10 % difficult

The route: After the first ascent, it is worth making a detour to the Ex-Forte Valledrane, then back to the main route on a short trail and on to the Rifugio Cavallino della Fobbia (battery charging option). Good riders then take the military path to the summit of the panoramic Monte Manos (1515 m) and decide whether to descend eastwards via the steep and exposed trail (S3). Easier alternative: return on the ascent route and circle the Manos on the south side. Caution: The mostly flowing forest rollercoaster to Capovalle harbours some tricky surprises. From Capovalle, continue into the solitude of the Valvestino. Before Moerna, turn left uphill for another 100 metres before soon turning right into the flowing "Percorso Storico", which leads to the destination of Persone.

Overnight stay: In Persone: Antica Osteria Pace - here they serve polenta with wild boar, home-made dumplings and all sorts of other delicacies with outstanding hospitality.

Stage 2: From Persone to Bagolino

• Length: 40.4 kilometres
• Uphill: 1630 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 1770 metres in depth
• Difficulty: 65 % easy, 20 % medium, 15 % difficult

The route: A firework display of impressions! The route climbs steeply uphill through the Valle dell'Armarolo to the Denai Alpine pasture landscape. The route also climbs steeply up to the Bocca di Caplone and thus directly onto the front line of the First World War (numerous trenches). The following descent is a colourful mix - a wide military path is followed by the challenging Sentiero Antonioli (S2 - S3) to Bondone (break, charging point). Directly below Bondone there is another washed-out trail (S2 - S3) that leads down to the lake (alternative: road). But south of San Antonio, the route climbs again until just before the lively village of Bagolino.

Overnight stay: Albergo Al Tempo Perduto in Bagolino, altempoperduto.it
"Zur verlorenen Zeit" is the name of this accommodation, but "in vergangene Zeit" would be more accurate. Simple, cosy rooms and the best culinary delights from the "Bagòss", the cheese pride of this valley.

Stage 3: From Bagolino to Gaver

• Length: 33.1 kilometres
• Uphill: 1780 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 1020 metres in depth
• Difficulty: 50 % easy, 40 % medium, 10 % difficult

The route: The morning begins with a long climb of over 1000 metres in altitude on a single-lane asphalt road (loading facilities at farms, no restaurants along the way). From now on, you follow the old military road northwards, which eventually reaches the Passo delle Cornelle, demanding all your uphill skills. From here, the route climbs and descends steadily towards the horizon. Past the Laghetti di Bruffione to the self-catering hut at the Passo di Bruffione (break with a view). The descent begins on a trail that is quite bumpy in places. However, if you prefer an easier route, you can stay on the wider military road. At Malga Bruffione, be sure to savour the Bagòss. The rest of the way to Gaver is either on the wider military road again or, for more experienced riders, on the very technical Sentiero 413 (S3) down into the valley.

Overnight stay: Locanda Gaver, locandagaver.it
Simple rooms, marvellous location and again a simple and all the more tasty "mountain meal" from the region.

Stage 4: From Gaver to Idro

• Length: 63.1 kilometres
• Uphill: 1440 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 2570 metres in depth
• Difficulty: 65 % easy, 25 % medium, 10 % difficult

The route: Today's metres in altitude lead to Passo Croci Domini (very busy at weekends). This is followed by a long panoramic traverse on tarmac and gravel paths up to Passo Maniva (coffee break/loading point). The trail starting at the Bivacco Tita Secchi requires full concentration as it winds its way through the rugged mountain massifs, sometimes exposed and sometimes wildly uphill and downhill. After Monte Ario, a flowing forest trail (S1) branches off, which turns back into gravel just before the village of Avenone. Then one last mulatiera rumbles down into the valley towards Vestone (coffee?) before returning to Lake Idro via trails. Only the last few metres are on the road back to the starting point.

Overnight stay: Just like on the day of arrival before the tour:
B&B Fiore in Lemprato, bbfiore-idro.com

The GPS data for the tour is available in the BIKE tour app:

Information about the tour around Lake Idro

The Idrosee Circuit is a 4-stage tour for well-advanced (e-)mountain bikers. The technical level is quite demanding. With 1400-1800 metres of elevation gain per day and a total of 165 kilometres, you should be in good physical condition. However, there are also opportunities to be shuttled up one or two uphill sections. This should be particularly interesting for bikers without a motor.

Guiding / guided tour:
This trip to the remote Idrosee hinterland, guided by and with Florian and Stefan, including logistics, accommodation and catering, can be booked at trailxperience.com

Shuttle / guided day tours:
guideandride.at

Bike shop with hire in Idro:
lakeidro.com