The Eastern Alps have just one four-thousand metre peak (Piz Bernina, 4049 m). The spectacle is correspondingly gigantic when you reach the world of the Western Alps. Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Dufourspitze, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau - the panorama of the eternally white peaks crowns every ascent, no matter how hard and long. That alone would be a reason to make the longer journey to the Western Alps. But it gets even better, because the longest trail descents in Europe are also waiting here. However, you have to be prepared for completely different conditions in the Western Alps. Well-maintained gravel roads and trails can only be found in the well-known, large ski resorts in the north. The further south you go, the more natural and dilapidated the network of trails is. Here, the climbs into high alpine regions are not only long, but also bumpy and riddled with potholes. At the end of a pass climb, there are usually even pushing and carrying sections. The downhill trails are all the more fun. In the summit regions, they are almost flowing with plenty of panoramic views. The tree-free zone here is much wider than in the Eastern Alps. The difficulty of the trails usually only increases significantly as you enter the forest.
If you want to cross the Western Alps from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean, you'd better take 14 days, be absolutely fit and have mountain experience. South of the ski resorts, you'll be touring through almost deserted areas, mobile phone reception is rare and the moody Atlantic can sometimes send a low-pressure system over. It's better to hire a car in one of the super trail valleys, use the shuttle service and enjoy every descent individually. We have compiled the best regions and their trail icons on the following pages.
Tolls in Switzerland
In Switzerland, there are only annual vignettes for the motorways, costing 35.75 euros. If the Great St Bernard Tunnel is on your route, you will have to pay a further 43.10 euros for the return journey. Incidentally, the general speed limit in Switzerland is 120 km/h. If you are speeding at 20 km/h too fast, you will be fined 155 euros. Mobile phone at the wheel: 85 euros.
1st Valle Maira: Gardetta plateau (49 km | 1972 m | 6 h)
The tour In the westernmost tip of Italy, the Valle Maira carves its way into the Cottian Alps. The centrepiece of the valley is the Gardetta plateau, where the French and Italians once fought each other. This is why this region is bursting with old military trails. But of course it is also full of metres in altitude, as we are in the much higher Western Alps. However, you can shorten the 1972 metres of elevation gain on this tour considerably by taking the shuttle from Marmora to Colle del Preit. The ascent to Passo Gardetta is then just under 450 metres before you plunge into the first three kilometres of trails. Picture-book serpentines sweeten the next 400-metre climb to Col Chiarbonet, where a real super trail through sparse forest awaits.
Condition 5 out of 5 points
Driving technique 4 out of 5 points
Landscape 5 out of 5 points
Difficulty heavy
2nd Aosta Valley: Cogne-Paradiso-Trail (7.7 km | 2092 m elevation gain | 5:30 h)
The tour The Aosta Valley is home to many celebrated super trails, so it's not easy to pick just one. However, the Cogne-Paradiso is not only extremely long, but also adventurous due to its ridge walk over to the Col Tsa Sètse and almost majestically beautiful due to its view of the Gran Paradiso. Here too, the steep and loose gravel ascent can be shortened with lifts. First from the Aosta Valley up to Pila and from there onwards with the Grimod and Couis (July and August only!). This is followed by the above-mentioned 45-minute, partly exposed, pushing passage up to the pass. And then it's time: around 1200 metres of the finest natural trail wind down over the Alp Arpisson to the mountain village of Cogne.
Condition 5 out of 5 points
Driving technique 5 out of 5 points
Landscape 5 out of 5 points
Difficulty heavy
MTB SUPERTRAILS in the Western Alps
1. the Brazilian: The great curve dream in the Val d'Annivers in the Swiss canton of Valais. Take the cable car to the Col du Cou, then dance down countless bends into the Rhone valley. 30 km / 2000 metres!
2nd Bachalpsee Trail: Inhale the view of the north face of the Eiger and then surf down a total of 13 kilometres from Bachalpsee to Grindelwald. Take the postbus up to the Große Scheidegg.
3rd Gornergrat: The ride on the Gornergrat Railway to 3090 metres above sea level is not cheap, but the panoramic view of the Matterhorn and the never-ending superflow trail to Zermatt definitely are. A must!
4th Invernieux Trail: The Col d'Invernieux starts in Cogne in the Aosta Valley. 1400 increasingly steep metres in altitude - at the end: push. On the other side of the pass, this trail winds through a natural idyll.
5th Forte-Jafferau Trail: In Piedmont, the Val di Susa awaits with military trails along the French-Italian border, and the descent from the 2800 metre high fort to Bardonecchia is the longest.
6th Mer-de-Glace Trail: 1300 metres in depth in a steep bunny zigzag from the Mer de Glace' ice sheet on Mont Blanc down to the pedestrian zone of Chamonix. For advanced skiers!
7th Col Lauson: The longest descent in the Aosta Valley starts at the 3296 metre high Col Lauson and ends after around 20 moderately difficult kilometres in Valsavaranche.
Further tour tips for bikers in the Western Alps
GIRO DEL MERCANTOUR (430 kilometres / 15000 vertical metres / 6 stages)
A breath of Mediterranean air is already blowing over the almost 3000 metre-high Maritime Alps in the very south of the Western Alps. The trails curve over undulating plateaus and plunge into deep gorges. The peaks of the Mercantour Nature Park are always in view. Price incl. half board and luggage transport approx. 1400 euros. www.lukasstoeckli.ch
TRANS-SAVOIE (263 kilometres / 5270 vertical metres / 6 stages)
20,000 metres of downhill - if you ask an enduro racer, the Trans-Savoie is one of the best trail backdrops in the world. For this reason alone, you should enjoy the route from Val d'Isère to Chamonix without a stopwatch. Price incl. accommodation, luggage transport, support vehicle and lift: approx. 1490 euros. www.mountainbikereisen.ch
TRAILCAMP AOSTA VALLEY (approx. 25 km / 700-1750 metres in altitude per day)
The backdrop of the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and co. makes you feel small at first, but your self-confidence grows with every kilometre of trail you cover. Single trail and alpine camp with riding technique sessions. Price incl. half board and shuttles from 1400 euros, www.trailxperience.com
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Gitta Beimfohr
Editor
