On 11 July 2019, BIKE editor Stefan Loibl set off on the second section of the Deutschland-Trail. The mission is the same as at the start in May: to find an interactive MTB tour through Germany with as much singletrack as possible.
Missed the first part? Then click here to read about stages 1 to 11, from the Dreiländerpunkt near Aachen to Bad Orb. In ten stages, the tour continues from Bad Orb in Hesse to its destination, namely over the Großer Arber in the Bavarian Forest to Bodenmais. Here are the stage reports from the second part, stage by stage, with the latest reports below.
Stage 12: From Bad Orb to Karlstadt (80 km/1800 metres altitude)
Amazing, despite the really rubbish weather, I had a handful of companions at my side throughout today. The twelfth #DeutschlandTrail stage started exactly where I finished my tour in May, in the centre of Bad Orb. Klaus took the lead on his home trails. We travelled along typical Spessart biking trails in drizzling rain over the Bayerische Schanz to Frammersbach. The trail down into the village (the "Reh-Pfädchen") was first class.
From Frammersbach, Manfred then took over the guiding of the 9-man group. Via Sohlhöhe, we turned into the super trail to Lohr am Main, which made up for the long ascent despite the muddy holes and slippery wet stones.
At the back, Matthias from RV Viktoria 1925 e. V. Wombach guided us along hidden trails via Mariabuchen to just before Karlstadt. Once there, we had to clean our bikes, wash our clothes and top up our batteries. Thanks to everyone who took part today! The next stage leads towards Würzburg, hopefully it will stay dry.
The 80-kilometre stage from Bad Orb to Karlstadt with 1800 metres of elevation gain can be found here at komoot:
Stage 13: From Karlstadt to Volkach (102 km/1700 metres altitude)
Oh man, what a trail firework display it was today! An absolute highlight of the project Germany Trail started in Karlstadt in the morning. There I immediately had two companions at my side, Joe and Christian. After the first warm-up trails, I was joined in Retzbach by Würzburg local Larry.
Then followed an orgy of trails that I have never experienced before! One trail followed the next and there was hardly any time to catch my breath. The biker trails have names like Huber Trail, Kloster Trail or Larry Trail among the locals. These are all fun forest trails, mostly of course, which are not particularly difficult but provide a lot of riding fun.
After 75 kilometres, I was almost glad that the trail chase was over and I could coast on the 25 kilometres to Volkach. The ferry ride shortly before the stage finish was a nice end to the mega stage around Würzburg. In the end, my Garmin showed 102 kilometres and 1700 metres of climbing, at least half of which was on trails.
Here is the stage in detail:
Stage 14: From Volkach to Zeil am Main (63 km/11 hm)
A great loop through the Steigerwald! It was Günther who reliably led me into the Steigerwald in the drizzling rain in Volkach. Over damp forest paths we went straight into the middle of it.
The absolute highlights of the region followed with the "Eberhard 3" trail and the snake trail. The trail's namesake and builder was also on hand to talk about future projects. It's really cool what the Steigerwald bikers have created!
Over many kilometres, the Eberhard meanders along the slopes and gorges towards the valley, sometimes as wide as a hand. Simply an exciting natural trail that doesn't need any jumps or berms. Afterwards, the large group headed to the Göller brewery pub "Zur Alten Freyung" in Zeil am Main via the muddy and wet Ebersberg trail.
Incidentally, the siblings Felix and Benedikt, who won the top prize in the 2017 BIKE reader survey, were also there from the Snake Trail onwards. Of course, the expensive top model was of little use to the brothers. Instead, they now ride two rock-solid mid-range full-sussers from Rocky Mountain, each a great bike. The trails around Bamberg are on the agenda for the next stage.
The stage from Volkach to Zeil am Main (63 km, 1100 m elevation gain) in detail can be found here at komoot:
Stage 15: From Zeil am Main to Heiligenstadt (85 km/1600 metres altitude)
New companions at my side, fresh trails and an unfamiliar area: the 15th Germany Trail stage had everything to offer that makes for real mountain biking!
At the start, we headed up the Veitenstein through the Hassberge mountains - once again with a group of 10. After a coffee stop at the Messingschlager Baunach bike café, Timo and Marco guided me unerringly down the Kreuzberg on a superb trail. We could have let off steam here for a whole day, but I had to keep going.
As we slalomed through the tourists in Bamberg, we treated ourselves to a smoked beer in the Schlenkerla. Afterwards, Uli Trailer joined us and gave us a stopover at the opening of the pump rack in Litzendorf.
The last few kilometres to Heiligenstadt in Upper Franconia were completed at 7:15 pm via a few flowing trails on the Frankenweg. The next section of the route continues to Bayreuth.
The complete stage from Zeil am Main to Heiligenstadt (85 km, 1600 m elevation gain) can be found here at komoot:
Stage 16: From Heiligenstadt to Bayreth (91 km/1530 m elevation gain)
It was another outstanding day in the saddle - which the #DeutschlandTrail stage through Franconian Switzerland to Bayreuth gave me! The Garmin showed 91 kilometres and 1530 vertical metres after a long day on the bike, which my guide "Fritz" (DIMB - Deutsche Initiative Mountainbike e.V. trainer) helped to shape from the start. As a former rope partner of Albert Precht, he naturally knows every rock formation in the Franconian region.
After the Totenstein, the Hummerstein and Neideck Castle, we made some distance in the Pegnitz and idyllic Aufseßtal valleys. As everywhere in Franconian Switzerland, the uphills were tough and steep, and the trails varied between rough and easy.
We headed towards Bayreuth via Neubürg. First Christian showed me a nice trail on the Franconian Mountain Trail, then we rode in the best evening light along paths in the Studentenwald forest into Bayreuth. The Fichtelgebirge are on the agenda for tomorrow.
The stage from Heiligenstadt to Bayreuth in detail can be found here at komoot:
- Here are the impressions:
Stage 17: From Bayreuth to Neusorg (73 km/1700 metres altitude)
Longer climbs, more challenging trails and wow panoramas: The 17th #DeutschlandTrail stage took me through the beautiful Fichtelgebirge mountains - with World Cup winner Anne Terpstra and Matthias from MTB-Oberpfalz at my side.
The ascent to the Ochsenkopf was already spiced up with rooted ramps. There we picked up Andi, Frank and Holger. On the bike park route down to Fleckl, Anne showed me how to fly through rough rock gardens on a race hardtail. It's amazing how she has her prototype bike under control!
We took the Bocksgrabenweg over to the Fichtelsee and, after a short swim, continued up the Kösseine. Again and again over trails that locals Matthias and Frank skilfully combined into a route.
The absolute highlight was the downhill from the Kösseine, the Püttner trail. It was wildly rough at the top, but got smoother and smoother towards the bottom. After 73 kilometres and 1700 metres in altitude, Frank barbecued for us in the evening. Today we continue via the Steinwald Nature Park to Waldsassen.
You can find the complete stage in detail on komoot here:
Stage 18: From Neusorg to Waldsassen (70 km/1220 m elevation gain)
With a cluster of nine bikers on my rear wheel, my first kilometres led up to the Platte in the Steinwald Nature Park - the first highlight of the 18th Germany Trail stage. What followed was outstanding: seven kilometres (!) of the finest singletrack down into the Fichtelnaab valley. With granite boulders and root carpets, sometimes more technical, sometimes faster and adorned with rock needles along the way. An absolute super trail that most of my companions already knew.
Afterwards, we followed the Franconian Mountain Trail on the recommendation of Matthias (MTB-Oberpfalz). Matthias had called ahead for the lunch stop at the butcher's in Fuchsmühl, as the butcher's is normally closed at lunchtime.
A few Leberkäs sandwiches and cyclists later, we took a north-easterly direction and headed for Kappl Münchenreuth. Again and again on short, hidden paths that Matthias and Andi knew. Michael from Ghost-Bikes was waiting for us there and guided us unerringly along the "Ronny Trail" to Waldsassen.
After 70 kilometres and 1220 metres in altitude, we had earned a Zoigl at the BBQ on the pump track. Tomorrow we're heading along the German-Czech border to Waidhaus.
You can find the complete stage here at komoot:
Stage 19: From Waldsassen to Waidhaus (78km/1570 metres)
On the Nurtschweg from Waldsassen to Waidhaus - these are the basic facts about the 19th #DeutschlandTrail stage. With Martina, Tina, Marina, Pascal and Herbert, I had five motivated GHOST Bikes employees at my side from the start in the direction of Dylen. Plus Andi, the Fichtelgebirge expert, who wanted to come with me all the way to Bodenmais.
The bumpy "Saugasse" to the centre of Europe took a lot of energy. Afterwards, we continued along the Nurtschweg via Mähring to Bärnau within spitting distance of the Czech Republic. In some places, the well-signposted path is so little used/travelled that it becomes overgrown. But usually no problem with a bike. After all, anyone can ride on levelled marble runs, but that's exactly what biking is all about for me.
Shortly before Schellenberg Castle, I made a mini detour to the Czech side and was rewarded with a great trail on the Havran. After that, we battled our way along the former border for a while on meadow paths and bumpy trails to Sulzberg. After 78 kilometres and 1570 metres of ascent, a fast forest trail then washed us into Waidhaus. Tomorrow my border tour continues through the Upper Palatinate Forest, Upper Palatinate, Bavaria to Furth im Wald.
As always, you can find the details of today's stage here at komoot:
Stage 20: From Waldhaus to Furth im Wald (63km/1300 metres)
Oh boy, today's #DeutschlandTrail stage was supposed to be a last breath of fresh air before the grand finale to Bodenmais. But the super steep ramps along the border from the Upper Palatinate Forest into the Bavarian Forest pushed us to the limit.
After the Grenzsteig and the Sautreibergasse up the Böhmerwaldturm in Waldmünchen, "long-term companion" Andi was out of steam. It was a great time with you, Andi! By the way, it's absolutely amazing how lonely you can cycle along the former border line through narrow meadow paths.
The energy-sapping stage continued via Knockhügel, Dreiwappen, Kreuzfelsen and Tannenriegel to Gaißriegel. Again and again on partly blocked forest paths close to the border. On a short section of the Bayerischer Wald - Trans Bayerwald we destroyed the last metres in altitude to Furth im Wald. Tomorrow is the grand finale to Bodenmais, the No. 1 holiday resort in the Bavarian Forest!
The complete stage in detail can be found here at komoot:
Stage 21: From Furth im Wald to Bodenmais (56km/1670hm)
The #DeutschlandTrail West-East is done! After 21 days, around 1500 kilometres and 35,000 metres in altitude, I was welcomed today in the best company in Bodenmais, holiday resort no. 1 in the Bavarian Forest. But the last stage from Furth im Wald over the Gr. Arber was another hard piece of work.
Fortunately, I had Falko from MTB Team Böbrach at my side, who set a good pace on the many metres of climbing past the Kaitersberg towards the Arber. The trails then became really great after the Enzian summit past the Kleiner Arber to the Schutzhaus Kleiner Arber - Chamer Hütte: an outstanding panorama, blocked trails and a landscape like in Canada sweetened the last metres in altitude.
After some refreshments on the hut terrace, seven more companions joined us and so we fought our way up the last gravel bends to the Gr. Arber - at 1456 metres, the roof of the tour. At the end of the tour, guide Manfred led us along hidden (partly dilapidated) paths, cross-country ski tracks and rumpled trails to the JOSKA glass paradise in Bodenmais. Thanks to all our companions, partners and followers on the tour - you'll find the full story in BIKE 10/19.
As always, today's stage with its 56 km and 1670 metres in altitude can be found at
The #DeutschlandTrail, part 1 led from the border triangle near Aachen in 11 stages to Bad Orb read more
More about the BIKE Deutschland Trail: social media and live tracking
You can find the latest updates, encounters and experiences from the road via these channels and the hashtag #GermanyTrail track:
