The side window is open. The wind caresses my elbow. The ribbon of tarmac that winds its way up the mountain in front of me is the main road leading out of Deggendorf. I've ridden it many times before. But this time it feels different, more epic, more route-66-like. It's amazing what a feeling of freedom a motorhome exudes. A small, cosy flat on four wheels. Bedroom, kitchen, bathroom. Perfect for a bike park road trip. Our plan for this weekend: Bischofsmais in the Bavarian Forest. Špičák in the Bohemian Forest. Lipno on the Vltava reservoir. Not "either-or", but "and".
As a camper, you're no longer alone - that's clear
Station 1, early morning: The car park of the Bikepark Geißkopf resembles a huge encampment of enduro enthusiasts. Many have travelled here in camper vans or vans. Some purists have slept in their camper vans with insulated mats and are now making coffee on the gas cooker in front of the car. The rest roll up to the lift already packed in protectors. Carefully, my pulse slightly elevated from the stress of manoeuvring, I chirp around a tight bend in search of a parking space. I have to back up because of a group that has converted part of the car park into a riding technique area. I feel like a trucker in the huge six-metre section. Except that I can't park like a lorry driver. Despite the reversing camera, manoeuvring in my rented campervan is not yet a routine task.
Travelling as a camper is like the trucker's life. You either love it or you hate it. But the past few years have shown that: More and more people love it. According to figures from the Federal Motor Transport Authority, the number of motorhomes in Germany rose by 73 per cent between 2015 and 2021. 7,9592 motorhomes were registered last year alone. Camping is a mega trend. I also like the outdoor life. I still remember the warm, gentle breezes on the lake where we camped as a family almost every summer when I was a child. I also still remember the meditative sound of the raindrops on the roof of the camper.
That's how it should be again on this road trip. The flow and root trails in the bike park offer waves today. The engine has barely been switched off when Oli Dorn (33) and Christoph Höß (24), the other two of our small road trip crew, are already getting their bikes ready to go. Oli is one of the best enduro riders in Germany, and Christoph is also passionate about enduro racing in his spare time. Like me, they are both passionate about camping. Oli is even part of the adventure team of a motorhome specialist. In his heyday as a racer, he spent half the year in his home on wheels.
Off to the piste. The flow trail on the Geißkopf is freshly shaped. It is as smooth to ride as if it had been pulled into the side of the mountain by a giant finger. A crazy sequence of jumps and banked turns. When we get back to the top, we turn onto the freeride trail, where Oli and Christoph have a wild chase through the forest full of roots and natural jump ramps. And so it goes on for a few hours. Up, down, up, down, up, down.
"OK, enough for today!" Oli finally pulls his helmet off his head and wipes the sweat from his forehead. "Time to relax!" Unfortunately, an icy wind is now blowing across the shady meadow at the valley station on the Geißkopf. Christoph and Oli quickly realise that we need to find somewhere more secluded. "Where to?" asks Christoph. "We'll find somewhere," replies Oli and opens the Park4Night app on his smartphone. A practical aid when looking for a place to camp. It lists official campsites as well as unofficial ones and authorised pitches on private land. Photos give a rough impression of the locations. "Here!" mumbles Oli, "this could be something".
Less than a quarter of an hour later, we are there. An idyllic little river meanders through the valley. Gnarled willows line the meadow on the bank. Not a soul for miles around. Almost too beautiful to be true. "Call the landowner before staying overnight," says a sign. I dial the number. "Hello, it's Sepp," a friendly voice answers. Yes, we can spend the night in the meadow. "Look for the most beautiful spot you can find," Sepp encourages us.
Wild camping - from difficult to illegal
"Bull's eye!" Oli is grinning ear to ear. The sun is shining, it's warm and there's no wind. Christoph gets the deckchairs and three beers ready. Oli knows that you don't find a spot like this every day. An old VW bus at the edge of the forest or by a lake with a campfire in front of it - it's now more of a romanticised camper van than a reality. Wild camping is frowned upon almost everywhere in Europe. And in some places, such as nature reserves, it is simply illegal.
"This makes it all the more important to observe camper etiquette," says Oli (see end of the article). Christoph is already chopping vegetables for the pasta sauce for the outdoor dinner. He tips the rubbish into a bin liner, which he will only dispose of when he gets home. The sun is setting. It's getting fresh. No problem. In the camper, the parking heater bangs almost silently. The spaghetti is steaming on the table. Really cosy. Just the way Oli likes it.
"On longer bike trips, this is the ideal form of travelling for me. No checking in and out. No fixed meal times." Oli is passionate about bike nomadism. But even more than the practical advantages, he values the spirit among campers.
"You have to improvise a little every day, which acts as a catalyst for helpfulness. Whether it's bike buddies or random neighbours at the pitch - there's a completely different human closeness than in a hotel." Camping brings people together. "Or it becomes a test of endurance," laughs Christoph. Spending days or even weeks together in such close quarters requires a good deal of mutual sympathy. But Christoph is also certain: once a camper, always a camper.
Drawings of his four-year-old son Nino are stuck to the storage compartments above Oli's bench seat. Oli doesn't just take the motorhome to races. As often as possible, his girlfriend Katharina, Nino and their one-year-old daughter Mina travel with him.
"The kids enjoy it," Oli chats: "They sleep on the journey and wake up in a whole new world. Watching the stars in the evening is also much cooler than the luxury of star hotels."
There is a small, lockable garage in the rear of Oli's spacious motorhome. With the front wheels removed, there is space for up to four bikes as well as tools and spare parts. "A few years ago, thieves tried to steal our bikes from the rear rack at night," says Oli. In the end, everything went well. "I was able to put them to flight."
The joke is one of the few negative experiences that permanent camper Oli can remember. What sticks in his mind are moments like the next day. The river steams in the cool morning air. The sun sends its first rays through the trees and covers the banks with a golden-bronze patina. "If I didn't know any better, we could be in Finland or Alaska right now," enthuses Christoph.
Head over: the Czech bike parks Spicak and Lipno
The route continues to the village of Bikepark Spicak. And from there, after a few magnificent descents, continue through the Bohemian forests towards the Vltava reservoir. The road is hilly and winding. The route stretches. We reach our destination of Lipno in the evening.
Unlike the day before, this time we want to spend the night at an official campsite. That doesn't sound like maximum adventure. Rest periods. Strict site rules. Bourgeois close together. That's the widespread campsite cliché. Which is nonsense, of course, especially here on the shores of Lake Vltava. And in fact, the campfire atmosphere soon sets in. We are lucky. It's the off-season. The campsite is almost empty apart from a handful of permanent campers fishing.
"Absolutely mega," Oli says happily as he sets up the barbecue between the motorhomes. He looks blissfully after the billows of smoke drifting over the water.
"Our neighbouring countries to the east are mercilessly underestimated by bikers," says Oli. "Most of them are routinely drawn to the Alps or Finale Ligure. But there are great trails here too. On top of that, the favourable parking fees make up for the fuel costs."
As the evening sky turns orange-red, Christoph and Oli talk about their road trips. Christoph was on the road for four weeks in a row in the summer: Holland, Belgium, France, northern Spain - 3,500 kilometres. "Not a single motorway. We always looked for the green spots on Google Maps and just drove off. A real adventure, during which I also discovered lots of cool, unknown trails." Oli also appreciates this way of travelling. "It's important to me not to plan too much." This makes every trip a little adventure. "And you don't even need an expensive motorhome," reflects Oli. Compared to the proud sums that a good campervan costs, the 1000 to 4000 euros for a roof tent are a piece of cake. And with a classic tent and rear rack on the car, it's even cheaper.
The next day: It's Monday. The Bikepark Lipnowhose trails wind along the slopes of a mountain almost 300 metres high, is almost deserted. Perfect for a trail firework display at the end of the road trip. Kickers, steep bends, root trails - everything action-hungry riders could wish for. The choice of routes is limited and the slopes are not too long. But they are great fun. They are one of the reasons why the small village of Lipno has become a hotspot for outdoor fans. If you fancy longer laps, you will find almost endless possibilities in the green waves along the gigantic reservoir shore. You can also ride the stages of the now legendary Blinduro enduro race on your own. As we still have to return home today, we'll leave it at the bike park this time.
"This cries out for a repeat," says Oli as he stows the bikes in the campervan garage after the last ride of the day. The trip has also whetted Christoph's and my appetite for more. As we roll towards home in the fading daylight, I find myself thinking about using the camper as a mobile home office and living on the bus for a summer.
Work, bike and travel. Everything in the green zone. And in between, the gentle caress of the airstream on your elbow as it rests on the open side window. What a brilliant thought.
On the Road - Tips and tricks for campers
Road trip route
Three in one go - three days, three bike parks, that was the motto of our road trip to the Bavarian Forest and the Bohemian Forest. The route: Munich - Bikezone Geißkopf near Bischofsmais - Bikepark Spicak (Czech side near Bayerisch Eisenstein) - Bikepark Lipno on the Vltava reservoir. Info: www.mtbzone-bikepark.com; http://sumava.spicak.cz; www.lipno.info
Campsites
Pitches and showers at the Bikepark Geißkopf car park; Regental Aktiv Camping, www.regental-aktiv-camping.deCamp Vresna, Lipno/Frymburk: www.camp-lipno.cz
Rent or buy?
New motorhomes are expensive and not necessarily a sustainable investment. Renting is the better alternative for anyone who does not spend the majority of their holidays and weekends in a camper. Campervans on a minibus basis are available from 65 euros per day, depending on the season (e.g. from Roadsurfer). Larger motorhomes cost around 200 euros per day in the high season. On www.paulcamper.de you can rent out your own motorhome or hire Bulli & Co. from private individuals.
Motorhome alternatives
It doesn't necessarily have to be a motorhome. Caravans can be towed by a sufficiently motorised car with a trailer coupling. Prices range from 20 to 100 euros per day, depending on size and season. Especially in midsummer and in warm regions, the combination of a tent or roof tent and rear rack is also suitable. Rent for roof tents: approx. 25 to 50 euros per day; compared to a motorhome, the purchase price for roof tents is rather low at approx. 1000 to 4000 euros. Provider: www.yakima.de; www.campwerk.de; www.xplorer.shop
Digital helpers
Apps such as Park4Night, StayFree, Stellplatzradar, Landvergnügen, Roadsurfer Spots or Campercontact help you to find original and authorised pitches away from official campsites. Beautiful natural pitches in Switzerland can be found on www.nomady.chFor a good night's sleep, the camper van should be as level as possible. The Pocket spirit level app helps with levelling. Overview of wild camping regulations in Europe: www.campodo-app.de/wildcamping-in-europa/
Safety check
If you're travelling with high-end bikes in an old van, you're often transporting a load on the rear rack that is well above the value of the vehicle. Motorhomes are as good or as little burglar-proof as cars. An alarm system in your own campervan is therefore worthwhile. Additional locking systems such as the Thule Door Lock also offer a certain amount of additional protection. When parking in car parks, place the bikes in the vehicle if possible and camouflage them well with a blanket. Abus offers U-locks with an alarm function: www.abus.de; a GPS tracker in the frame can be used to track stolen bikes. Avoid big city areas and tourist hotspots if possible. Specialised bike insurance is a good idea for worst-case scenarios. Study the small print carefully before taking out insurance.
Oli's camper etiquette
You are only a guest
Be defensive, show respect and ask in a friendly manner - this will maximise your chances of finding a nice spot away from the campsites. You should always be aware that you are not entitled to a pitch. Unless you have made a reservation at the campsite. In nature reserves, national parks and landscape conservation areas, wild camping is prohibited in Germany. strictly forbidden. Find out in advance about the regulations in the regions you are travelling to.
Take the rubbish with you
Always leave your pitch as you found it and would like to find it yourself. In addition to the rubbish, you should also dispose of the contents of the waste water tank properly. This means not in the bushes or in the nearest ditch.
Shops under the open sky: also not welcome. Hidden places are not collection points for toilet paper. In addition to on-board toilets in campervans, there are handy mobile toilets that are even suitable for camping trips by car!
Animal neighbours
Speakers at full volume don't just disturb the neighbours at home. On pitches in the forest or by the lake, the neighbours are deer, hares and herons. They also prefer it quiet. Campfire romance: barbecues and campfires should only be used at official fireplaces on campsites. Wild campfires leave scorched earth in the truest sense of the word, and the risk of forest fires is high.
