Bicycle tools: You need these 19 tools for bicycle repairs
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Helping people to help themselves: many bikers see it as a necessary evil to be able to repair their own bikes themselves. Others - and this is the increasing number of how-to and DIY videos on YouTube - even wrenching is fun. It is really satisfying when you have mastered some basic skills for adjusting and repairing your bike. In addition to the necessary knowledge, you also need the right tools. But which tools are best for beginners or experienced mechanics? And does it make sense to invest in ready-made tool sets from brands such as Procraft or Topeak?
A simple tool set is sufficient for minor work on the bike. This should contain hexagon socket spanners (also known as Allen keys) and Torx spanners as well as a screwdriver. To change classic clincher tyres with inner tubes, you will also need a robust tyre lever and some strength. Modern bikes with hydraulic disc brakes, internally routed cables and tubeless tyres, on the other hand, require a little specialist knowledge and, above all, special tools. Our experienced professional mechanics in the BIKE workshop know from many years of experience that the world of bike mechanics used to be simpler - before disc brakes, electric gears, new bottom bracket standards or integrated handlebar-stem cockpits became standard. Modern MTB and road bikes may look tidier than their predecessors, but they require more complicated and time-consuming maintenance and repair. Accordingly, the choice of tool set depends on the requirements of your own bike and what you are comfortable with. But we also know that once you've dared to tackle simple bike repairs, you might even venture into more complex tasks. So the tool shopping list or wish list will grow over time. The price of the tools is a matter of taste. But the same applies here: You have to be able to afford cheap.
19 bicycle tools for the home
Our tool panel presents a large selection of tools: the left-hand side contains versatile all-rounders from the DIY store, while the right-hand side mainly contains special bicycle tools, including fork ring spanners, a special nut for fitting SRAM bottom brackets and a cassette tool for the drivetrain.
1. screwdriver
Models with cross and slotted heads in different sizes are absolutely essential. It is important that the blade is robust and that the handle offers a good grip so that even tight screws can be loosened easily. >> e.g. available here.
2. open-end ring spanner
Some people know the Combination spanner perhaps also known as an "open-end spanner" or simply a "spanner spanner". Although there are no longer many tasks for the fork ring spanner on modern bikes, they are still part of the basic set, e.g. for mounting mudguards or luggage racks.
3. hexagon socket
The hexagon socket - also known as an Allen key or hex spanner - is the tool most commonly used on bicycles. Screws from 2.5 to 10 millimetres can be found on the bike. The hexagon socket should be of high quality. Metal that is too soft wears out too quickly or warps. As a result, the screws also suffer and are annoying to use. It is therefore worth investing in high-quality sets, which can cost around 20 to 30 euros >> e.g. available here.
4. torx spanner
Stems, chainrings and brake callipers are increasingly being fastened with Torx screws instead of hexagon socket screws. Torx screws - also known as hexagon socket screws - have the advantage of offering the tool head a larger surface area and are less likely to be overtightened. Before using the spanner, however, you should always make sure that the screw head is free of dirt. The home workshop is ideally equipped with a Torx spanner set from TX10 to TX40 >> e.g. available here.
5. hammer
During bearing maintenance or the assembly of crank arms, seized parts and bolts can be easily removed with a Rubber or Soft-face mallet (pictured below) without damaging the sensitive surface. A conventional hammer is the best choice when it comes to driving out the steering or bottom bracket with a pin.
6. pliers
Pipe wrenches or water pump pliers and flat nose pliers are useful tools for various holding tasks. They can be used, for example, to tighten a Bowden cable on the brake or on the rear derailleur. But be careful: the pipe wrench in particular can also cause damage and cause deep scratches, for example on tight nuts, due to the high holding force.
7. side cutter
The Side cutter is used to cut cable ties, for example. If the cutting edges are sharp and without marks, they can also be used to cut the Bowden cable. For cutting through the cable sheath or for clean cuts on the cable, however, it is better to use a special Bowden cable cutter can be used.
8. insulating tape and cable ties
If you apply your handlebar tape yourself, you often find that the adhesive strips supplied do not adhere well. One solution to this is classic Insulating tape.
With Cable ties you can temporarily fix many things on the road, such as a loose mudguard attachment or a broken saddlebag fastener.
9. scissors and cutter
To finish the handlebar tape properly, it is important to make a clean diagonal cut on the last stroke. This is best done with sharp scissors that have a long cutting edge. A sharp Cutter opens every spare parts packaging.
10. caliper gauge
To order a replacement bolt or to determine the exact measurement of the handlebar diameter or the seat post, it is advisable to purchase a caliper gauge. There are inexpensive models with a so-called vernier display, which are available from 20 euros >> e.g. available here.
11. pedal spanner
Right turn - left turn? With the special Pedal spanner and its long lever arm, any bicycle pedal with a 15 mm hexagon can be easily loosened. Mnemonic for the direction in which pedals are screwed on: right pedal - right way round Tighten. Left pedal - round to the left Tighten.
12. bowden cable cutter
Thanks to the round-ground cutting edges of the Bowden cable cutter, the metal protective cover does not bend as easily as with the normal side cutter >> e.g. available here.
13. chain lock link pliers
The chain lock link pliers - or chain lock pliers or chain pliers for short - can be used to open the chain lock of a chain. The open chain can also be held in position against the spring force of the derailleur to connect it to the chain lock and can also be closed again with a little force. >> e.g. available here.
14. cassette tools
To change the cassette, you need Chain counterholder or -Whipto lock the cassette, as well as a toggle with a suitable multi-tooth nut for Shimano (SRAM) or Campagnolo to loosen the end nut (to the right of the cassette tool in the picture).
15. little helpers
If you press the brake lever with the brake disc removed, there is a risk that the brake disc will not fit back into the caliper and you will have to spread the brake shoes again (another special tool). To prevent this, you can small wedges that block the brake pistons. A valve cap spanner can be used to check whether the valve inserts are firmly seated. Tyre lever should always be as large and stiff as possible, as tubeless tyres in particular often sit very tightly on the rim.
16. bottom bracket tool
There are well over 20 different bottom bracket types on MTBs, road bikes, etc. From cartridge bearings, Pressfit, BB30, DUB and Hollotech to BSA or GXP - every bottom bracket standard requires a special tool for mounting. It is best to ask for the appropriate tool in the shop when you buy your bike.
17. chain riveters
If you do not have a chain with a chain lock, you will need a Chain riveters. It can be used to press out the chain rivet pins at any point (except the locking pin) on the chain and press the new locking rivet back in. Models with large handles are an advantage - as is good quality.
18. torque spanner
Hand-tight is relative; high-quality parts should be tightened exactly to the specified torque, otherwise carbon fibre, for example, can be irreparably damaged. And aluminium doesn't like being pressed too hard either. Torque wrenches can be expensive, cheap models cost from around 30 euros >> available here.
19. chain gauge
It can save a lot of money, as worn chains can damage the sprocket and chainring. By using a chain gauge, the wear - in this case the stretching of the chain links - of a chain can be recognised in good time. The price starts at just 10 euros >> e.g. available here.
Complete bicycle tool sets
There is no one-size-fits-all answer to the question of whether it is worth investing in ready-made tool sets. If you already have a basic set of tools, a complete tool kit is probably not necessary. In this case, some tools would be duplicated. However, if you are new to bicycle repair, a bicycle tool set could be useful.
The four best workshop tips from the BIKE workshop
The Ariadne wire
Bicycles with internally routed cables have often annoyed Hubert John, a trained car mechanic. When reassembling the disassembled test bikes, it is difficult to guide the cables back through the frame tubes. However, with the help of a stiff wire as a guide, it is possible to return them to their original position.
Lock instead of rivet
Hans-Peter Ettenberger doesn't like riveted chains. He replaces all the links on his own bikes with suitable chain locks, for example from KMC. To be able to handle the chain better and keep his fingers clean, the master industrial mechanic uses special pliers for Chain lock links.
Recycle pedal hook straps
The straps of the pedal hooks can be tightened very firmly. Matthias Fischer, a trained carpenter and civil engineer, utilises this property to secure the left crank arm to the chain stay. This serves as a counter bearing when loosening the fixing bolt of the crankset. This method works with all crank models and protects the paint surface.
Misused pliers
To tighten the cable tie as tightly as possible, Mike Schinke, a trained master bike mechanic, uses pliers that are normally used to tighten brake or gear cables. In contrast to flat or pointed pliers, the long end does not tear off during tensioning and the tie holds extremely tight.
Matthias Borchers
Editor
