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4 tools in a practical test
As big as necessary, as small as possible: Smart Tools are the most space-saving way to take the necessary tools with you on tour. Four clever breakdown helpers.
Syncros IS Cache 2.0 HV
Pump, bottle cage, mini-tool - Syncros delivers an all-round package with the IS Cache. The pump with extendable hose manages 1 bar in approx. 140 strokes and has already proven itself on many tours. The tool, on the other hand, is less good and more of a makeshift solution. Many thru axles cannot be loosened without the 6 mm Allen key, the 8 mm is also missing and the flattened 5 mm is not ideal. The handling of the tiny bike is also less convincing, but at least the bits are long enough. Clever: The bottle cage can be mounted for right or left-handed riders.
- Price: 80 Euro >> available here
- Weight: 261 gram
- Functions: 8
Lezyne Dual Insert Kit L
Even if the bits are a little difficult to remove from the holder, the Lezyne tool with its fold-down head sits comfortably in the hand and scores points with its large lever. The numerous bits stay firmly in place. The tubeless tool with thick plugs is also impressive. Unfortunately, the 17.5 mm thick tool does not fit in every handlebar, and fixing it with O-rings is tedious. The 8 mm bit can get lost in the handlebars if there is a lot of shaking. There is no chain riveter and nipple tensioner.
- Price: 80 Euro >> available here
- Weight: 128 grammes
- Functions: 11
Wolf Tooth Encase Bar Kit
More functions can hardly be accommodated in such a small space. Chain tool, tubeless tool and all the important bits. The compact design doesn't get in the way when wrenching, quite the opposite. Here too, the head can be folded down and tight spots are easy to reach. Unfortunately, the bits are difficult to remove. Stowing them in the handlebars is much easier than with Lezyne.
- Price: 110 Euro >> available here
- Weight: 96 grammes
- Functions: 18
OneUp EDC Pump / V2 Tool
If you're talking about the jack of all trades, then this is it: The powerful aluminium pump (78 strokes per bar!) conceals a fully equipped mini-tool, chain tool, tyre lever, spoke spanner and all the important bits - what more could you want? The tiny tool is also easy to handle. The small box holds small items, but can also be replaced by a tubeless puncture kit (49.50 euros) or a CO² cartridge. The pump head then serves as a connection for this, but only fits on Sclaverand valves - one of the really few disadvantages. The tool is also available as an optional insert for the steerer tube. However, a special threading tool is required for installation.
- Price: 149 Euro >> available here
- Weight: 153 / 109 grammes
- Functions: 18
Repair tips for minor breakdowns on the tour
Only an expert can help with motor and battery defects. The same applies to many other breakdowns:
With a little manual dexterity, the tour can usually continue. The most important tips.
Flat tyres
Problem: The tyre runs out of air. The most common of all punctures. That's why patching and changing tyres are compulsory exercises that everyone should be able to do blindfolded.
Whether it's a puncture or a sharp spike: a spare inner tube, mini pump and repair kit are part of your standard equipment - even if you ride with tubeless milk. But what happens when you run out of spare inner tubes and puncture repair kit? Then cut the inner tube where the hole is. Knot it together, place it on the rim and pump it up again. If the inner tube is completely ruined, there is only one thing to do: stuff the tyre with grass or leaves and roll it towards your destination. As gently as possible, otherwise the rim will also be ruined.
Jacket defective
Problem: Sharp-edged rocks have slashed the tyre. Even if the inner tube is still intact, the tyre needs to be repaired - otherwise the next puncture is inevitable.
Remove the tyre from the rim and tape it from the inside with the most robust
tape from the inside. If necessary, flexible plastic parts (e.g. from packaging or, depending on the position of the slit, a piece of sturdy cardboard) are also suitable. It is important that the slit no longer gapes open when you inflate the hose.
If the slit is on the side walls, you can also try to sew it up with a needle and thread from an emergency repair kit. However, this only works on the sidewall of the tyre. The thread must be knotted tightly at the end.
Broken spoke
Problem: A cracked spoke is not the end of the world. Nevertheless, it should be repaired in a makeshift manner, as it can puncture a hole in the tube and scratch the frame or fork.
Wrap the spoke part that is connected to the hub as tightly as possible around the neighbouring spoke if it cannot be removed. This way, nothing can dangle around and drag. The part that is in the rim can be fixed in place with the same trick. Even better: loosen the connection between the spoke and spoke nipple and remove the complete spoke half
remove the complete spoke half and stow it in the rucksack. If necessary, re-centre the other spokes slightly to compensate for the impact. If you have a Spare spoke, remove the tyre and insert the new spoke.
Eight in the wheel
Problem: The wheel has become deformed, for example due to a fall. It no longer fits through the frame or fork without rubbing.
A little re-centring of the spokes is not enough. Now only force can help - but with caution. Locate the point of the strongest bend. Now place the rim on a tree stump or kerb at the bend point. The rim should protrude slightly to the left and right of the bend. Now step onto the rim with both feet a little to the left and right of the defective area and bend the rim halfway straight again with measured swinging movements or small jumps.
ATTENTION: This trick is only suitable for aluminium rims. Carbon models usually break beforehand.
Defective chain
Problem: The chain does not move to the next sprocket, jumps or makes unpleasant noises when changing gear. This can often be remedied with a few simple steps.
Quickest solution: Remove the chain from the chainring to take the tension out of the chain. With the Chain riveters on the Mini-Tool Remove the defective outer link plate and
insert a replacement chain lock there. If no replacement lock is available, remove the defective chain link completely.
ATTENTION: Do not push the rivet pin all the way out. It should protrude slightly into the link plate. This allows it to be easily pushed back into the link joint when riveting the chain together. To do this, position the rivet on the opposite side.
Gearstick ticks
Problem: The chain clicks and only changes reluctantly from one sprocket to the next or even skips gears. In most cases, the tension is not set correctly.
If the chain does not climb upwards when shifting into an easier gear, turn the adjusting wheel on the gear lever half a turn in the direction of travel until the gear changes are smooth again. If you have problems shifting into a heavier gear, turn the wheel against the direction of travel. If the shift cable is broken, it is no longer possible to change gear. Then engage a middle gear and fix it by turning the lower stop screw on the rear derailleur all the way in.
Bent or broken derailleur hanger & torn off rear derailleur
Problem: With a bent derailleur hanger, the gear change no longer works as it should. You need to use your instincts to get it right.
If the rear derailleur is crooked after a fall or being caught on a branch,
the derailleur hanger is often bent. For emergency repairs, insert a 5 mm Allen key into the screw that secures the rear derailleur and use it as a lever. At the same time, carefully push or pull the rear derailleur with the other hand to align it.
If the derailleur hanger is broken or the rear derailleur is damaged, there is only one thing to do: remove the rear derailleur, shorten the chain, select a gear with the straightest possible chain line and rivet the chain back together. ATTENTION: For fullys, lock the suspension now if possible. Otherwise the frame, hub or cassette may be damaged.
