Braking tips from a pro: "Many bikers brake incorrectly!" - Yanick Gyger
BIKE
· 02.01.2023
BIKE: The brakes are one of the most important components on the bike, why?
Yanick Gyger: After all, as a biker, your life depends on it. Everything else is half as tragic in the event of a failure. But good luck, good luck, good luck - in all my years as a race mechanic, I've never once experienced a brake failure.
What makes a powerful brake?
The decisive components are the brake discs, the brake pistons and the brake pads. The size of the brake discs in relation to the weight of the rider and the bike is largely decisive for the braking power. The area of use and the terrain also play a role: fast and long downhills require larger discs, as do descents on long alpine tours with a rucksack. Aluminium parts on the disc dissipate heat better than steel and the brakes overheat less quickly. It is also important to match the size of the rotor to the brake pads. This prevents fading, i.e. a reduction in braking performance on long descents.
Not all brake pads are the same. What are the differences?
Organic brake pads transfer less heat to other parts and thus better prevent the brakes from overheating and losing power. They are light and quiet - good all-round pads. Ideal for dry conditions. However, they wear faster than sintered metal pads. The latter grip noticeably harder, but also wear the brake disc faster. They are noisier and tend to squeal more. We mainly use sintered pads in the rain.
Brakes with a four-piston system have largely prevailed over those with two pistons. What is better about them?
I am convinced that four-piston brakes will become completely established in the future. The weight advantage of two-piston systems is largely gone. The clear advantage of four-piston models is their better performance. The brake pads are longer, which increases the friction on the disc. This means you can brake later, ride more aggressively and reduce speed more quickly.
When do mountain bike brakes reach their performance limit?
A whole range of factors play a role here. The weight of the bike and biker, the speed, the gradient of the route. The higher the system weight, the larger the brake discs should be. However, braking behaviour is also crucial. Many bikers brake incorrectly. They let the brakes drag from top to bottom on descents. The discs overheat. The result: fading. The brakes lose their defined pressure point, the brake pads glaze over and show less grip.
"Shiny, glazed brake pads and a discolouration of the brake disc to black indicate that the parts have been overheated: The parts have been overheated. The brake loses power." - Yanick Gyger, team mechanic for CC superstar Nino Schurter
How do I brake correctly?
Similar to an ABS system - with a stutter brake: alternately brake hard and then release the brake again. In doing so, apply the front and rear brakes evenly. As long as you are travelling straight ahead, you can also work more with the front brake. When cornering, however, you should use the front brake sensitively so as not to lock up and slip. I recommend at least a 180-millimetre disc at the front and rear for hobby riders and a 200-millimetre disc at the front for heavy and downhill-oriented riders. Before changing, you should check whether the suspension fork is approved for the planned disc size.
What does the dosing capability depend on?
How hard the brakes should apply, and whether they do so more or less abruptly, is a matter of individual taste. I prefer really snappy brakes. The correct grinding in of brake pads and brake discs is crucial. I used to spend hours trying to get enough Braking reserve pads on the trail. Today I use a special machine that an engineer built for me. The braking performance of new, untreated pads and discs is far below what is possible with the material. Basically, the manufacturers are selling parts that are not yet one hundred per cent fit for purpose. It is left to the customer to get the maximum out of the material. But without the right expertise, they can do a lot wrong. If the brake overheats during braking, it is no longer possible to tease the full potential out of it later.
What else is important to ensure that the brakes on the bike grip properly?
Precise assembly is the be-all and end-all. This requires a little time and effort. But the effort is worth it. If everything fits, you'll have peace of mind for a long time. I don't have to bleed brakes that are fitted perfectly for a whole season. Before I fit the stoppers, I take care of the pistons. I mobilise them until they come out exactly evenly on the left and right. To do this, I hold back one piston at a time and mobilise the piston on the opposite side. If necessary, you can also lubricate the pistons with a little DOT fluid.
Brake tips from professional mechanic Yanick Gyger
1 Brake pads and disc
It is important to alternate between heating up and cooling down. Pedal with the brake dragging or roll downhill until it gets hot. However, the brake must not overheat, otherwise it will lose power. Now allow the brake disc to cool down. After 40 seconds to a minute, repeat the whole process. Optionally ten sprints and full braking to a standstill. Never start a 1000 metre descent with new brakes.
2 Windscreen care
After washing the bike, residues of care products remain on the brakes. They reduce the braking performance. These residues can be carefully removed by heating with a Bunsen burner. Caution with carbon or textile spokes!
3 Tuning: pads and larger disc
If the brake does not deliver the desired performance despite proper braking, it is not necessary to replace the entire brake. A larger disc or different pads are often sufficient.
