The big question: What type am I?
Biking has many facets. A lot has happened since the invention of the mountain bike almost 40 years ago. Shaggy hippy types like Charlie Kelly or Joe Breeze competed in the first of all MTB races, the "Repack Downhill" near San Francisco, on converted beach cruisers in the hunt for the best time. Today, the industry has - to put it bluntly - a bike category for every size of boulder. All-rounders such as all-mountain or trail bikes do well in every discipline, while specialists such as marathon fullys or enduro bikes have been specifically trimmed for their area of use. If you're struggling over the Alps on the wrong bike or racing downhill in the bike park, you'll quickly lose the fun. We will guide you through the bike categories with the most important key data and a precise profile description. What do you identify with?
A hardtail as an entry-level bike?
Features:
Weight: max 11 kg
Spring travel: 100 mm
Special features: For marathons or long tours, two bottles can be transported on the frame.
Price: Good models from 1000 euros
Field of application: Tours on tarmac, gravel and light trails, racing up to professional class
Cross-country and marathon racers ride them because of their weight and efficiency, beginners buy them because of their favourable price. Anyone who heads into the forest on a hardtail is opting for the most original type of mountain biking. Low maintenance and simple set-up make it easy to get started. The low overall weight and good rolling tyres make extended tours possible. The other side of the coin is low comfort and limited off-road capability. Bumps caused by uneven ground reach the rider unfiltered via the rigid rear triangle. Steep descents, rough terrain or jumps are not in the specifications for this bike category. Due to their positive handling characteristics, 29-inch wheels are predominantly used to increase the fun off-road.
Good full-suspension marathon bikes are available from 2500 euros
Features:
Weight: by 11.5 kg
Spring travel: 100 - 120 mm
Special features: Suspension can be locked from the handlebars for sprints.
Price: Good models from 2500 euros
Field of application: Tours on tarmac, gravel and light trails, or tough racing use
The marathon fully already carries part of its area of use in its name. Racers use these bikes for long distances, primarily to increase riding comfort and protect their muscles. However, sporty touring bikers who do not want to do without the comfort of a fullys on long rides will also find themselves in this category. The chassis is trimmed for drive efficiency. Downhill, the sparingly dimensioned suspension travel only absorbs the most necessary impacts. In principle, these bikes have the same range of use as the hardtails. As soon as the terrain gets rougher, both reach their limits. Here too, the 29ers predominate, at least in racing. 27.5er wheels only show their strengths with more suspension travel.
Trail bikes: the right thing for your first MTB trails?
Features:
Weight: by 12.5 kg
Spring travel: 120 - 130 mm
Special features: To make riding downhill even more fun, some seat posts can be lowered and operated from the handlebars.
Price: Good models from 1700 euros
Field of application: Gravel, trails, tarmac, tours in the Alps and low mountain ranges
The sporty models in this category also fit well into the marathon starting block. However, the majority of this category practises the balancing act between good climbing genes and a high fun factor downhill. The choice of tyres often determines the shift in talent between uphill and downhill. Compared to the marathon full-suspension bikes, these bikes can also take on rough obstacles on the downhill. The extra suspension travel ensures more safety downhill and masters root passages and rock gardens as well as smaller jumps. The perfect choice for pleasure-orientated bikers who enjoy the downhill fun before the uphill fun.
All Mountains: The right mountain bikes for touring riders
Features:
Weight: by 13.5 kg
Spring travel: 130 - 150 mm
Special features: Retractable seat posts are standard in this category, as are handlebars up to 760 mm wide.
Price: Good models from 2500 euros
Field of application: Demanding trails, trail parks, light bike park use
By definition, all-mountain bikes are long-travel touring bikes for demanding terrain and equally demanding riders. Smaller drops or rough trails are challenges, not obstacles, for the chassis with generous suspension travel. The ascent to the descent is more difficult than with a trail bike, but remains easily manageable, even if the relatively high total weight takes its toll on the tour. This category includes technically experienced riders who are more interested in having fun on the downhill than on the way to the summit. Nevertheless, getting around using your own muscle power remains a point of honour with an All Mountain! Read the Test of the 2016 all-mountain bikes in the most exciting price range around 3000 euros.
For downhill riders: what characterises enduro mountain bikes
Features:
Weight: by 14.5 kg
Spring travel: approx. 160 mm
Special features: Shock absorber with reservoir and solid suspension forks for the best downhill performance
Price: Good models from 2500 euros
Field of application: Everywhere where it rumbles and goes nastily downhill, bike parks
Technical trails are at the top of the wish list for these bikes. Enduro is booming and the industry promises all-rounder bikes. But be careful! Heavy tyres, high weight and downhill-oriented geometry make the uphill more difficult. A lift or shuttle is not always available. Lightweight bikes of this type are expensive, but can still be suitable for touring. Nevertheless, thanks to good suspension and downhill-compatible attachments, these bikes help you have fun on the downhill. Use in the bike park does not upset an enduro bike. For extended tours on the trails outside your front door, however, an all-mountain is usually the better choice.
Cheap or expensive: How much should you spend on a good mountain bike?
What actually distinguishes a high-end model costing €5,000 from a cheaper entry-level bike? And what should I really look out for? We explain the state of the art and which parts you should pay particular attention to when buying.
1. undercarriage
Only air suspension elements are used on modern mountain bikes. The spring stiffness of the shock and fork can be adjusted to the rider's weight by filling an air chamber. Expensive suspensions also have special coatings on the stanchions and separately adjustable damping. In addition, the internal processing of expensive forks is significantly more complex. No matter how expensive or cheap, forks and dampers need at least one adjustable rebound setting (rebound speed). Shocks should also have a switchable "anti-wobble" platform. Heavy steel spring elements are only used in the freeride sector.
2. frame
The differently priced bikes of a model variant usually have the same frame. This means that tube sets and geometries remain the same across the majority of the price range, only the paintwork and add-on parts change. For expensive bikes, carbon is often used as the frame material instead of aluminium in order to save weight. Bikes made from steel or titanium are cult
niche products.
3. tyres
No component determines the range of use of a bike more than the tyres. Heavy 2.4-inch wide downhill tyres almost turn a trail bike into an enduro bike, while lightweight 2.1-inch tyres make it suitable for marathons. In addition to the tread pattern, a high-quality carcass structure and the rubber compound are particularly important. Look out for the Evolution or Race Sport label on Schwalbe or Continental tyres, as these offer significantly more comfort and grip than their cheaper counterparts.
4. brakes
The days of rim brakes are numbered. Current mountain bikes only use disc brakes for deceleration. The advantage: more braking power, better modulation and top performance in wet conditions. Better models are characterised by tool-free pressure point adjustment and better ergonomics. Brakes with four pistons and large 200 mm brake discs provide additional power for heavy or downhill-oriented bikers.
5th circuit
To be equipped for any terrain, you should use at least two chainrings. Gears with only one chainring (11 gears) usually have too small a gear range. The single drivetrain is an alternative for fit racers. It is sub-optimal for beginners. The difference between the high-quality and the cheaper gears from Sram or Shimano is hardly noticeable in terms of function, but the weight changes considerably.
6. wheels
In conjunction with the tyres, the wheels play a decisive role in the handling of a bike. If they are too heavy, the whole bike feels sluggish in handling. Light wheels, on the other hand, make the bike lively. Larger 29er wheels accelerate harder than 27.5er wheels. The wider the tyre, the wider the rim width should be. Enduro bikes should have rims at least 25 mm wide, 21 mm is sufficient for hardtails.
Which wheel size is right for me?
26 inches, the predominant tyre size of yesteryear, has died out. Now three successors are vying for the throne in the MTB circus.
27,5" is often colloquially referred to as 650 B and is often sold as the golden mean.
Especially for bikes with more suspension travel, this size is intended to offer the right compromise between the manoeuvrability of a
26" wheels and the improved rollover behaviour of 29ers.
29"-wheels are the saviours of rough terrain. Thanks to the larger wheel circumference, they roll over smaller roots or stones without the rider having to do much work. On steep terrain, they prevent the rider from rolling over, and they roll faster on gravel paths. Accelerating with the 29ers is a little more difficult, but with little suspension travel the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.
B plus Bikes with these tyres are the little brothers of fat bikes. The tyres, which are between 2.8" and 3.0" wide (normally 2.25"-2.4"), are designed to offer extra grip both uphill and downhill and forgive the rider minor riding errors. The market only offers a few tyres and bikes so far. Insiders rumour: "The young plus size will change again as early as 2017."
How do I find the right geometry for my mountain bike?
Reach, stack, steering angle ...? Please, what? So that your sales talk in the bike shop or research on the internet doesn't end in complete confusion, you should have heard the following terms before and be able to categorise them. We also explain how to find the right frame size.
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Buy an MTB online or in a bike shop?
Bike shops are the meeting place for the bike scene. But the internet is giving retailers a lot of competition. The online offer is overwhelming, but not everyone is happy in the digital world.
Buy an MTB online from a consignor
The German mail order companies are radically changing the market in terms of price/performance. For the same price, companies such as Radon, Rose or Canyon equip their bikes significantly better than the competition from specialist retailers. Online retailers offer extensive assistance with model selection on their website or by telephone, pre-assemble the bikes perfectly and provide set-up suggestions for the suspension. However, they cannot replace a personal contact person on site. If you have friends who can help with tuning, seat height adjustment and minor repairs, you can also take the risk of buying from a mail order company as a beginner. Otherwise, we only advise experienced bikers to do so.
Buy MTB in the bike shop
Good advice is expensive! True, comparably equipped models usually cost a little more in bike shops than on the websites of online retailers. However, specialist dealers also offer a lot more service: In addition to expert advice, you can test ride some bikes directly. An initial adjustment of the seating position and suspension is also carried out, and smaller parts can be changed immediately on request. Many dealers offer the first service as a bonus, and the price is often reduced by one or two per cent. We advise beginners to buy from a specialist dealer. Rule of thumb: If you have never removed a rear wheel before, you are in better hands here than at an online retailer. The extra price is worth it.
Buying a used mountain bike
If you buy new, it's your own fault! Does the saying from the automotive industry also apply to bicycles? In any case, it's rare to find anything like dealer-approved "annual bikes". If you get carried away by the favourable price of one-off top models, you can save yourself a lot of money, but also get into a lot of trouble. Here's how to avoid falling into the cost trap.
1. check tyres: Check not only the tread, but also look for cuts or brittle spots in the tread.
2. undercarriage: If the suspension elements respond poorly or the fork has increased bushing play, then a service is due.
3. ball bearing: If the headset, pedal or rear wheel bearings are rough or have a lot of play, they need to be replaced.
4. drive: Even if the gears work perfectly, a chain needs to be replaced approximately every 2000 kilometres. If the interval is exceeded, the sprockets and chainrings will also wear out.
5. frame: Cracks in the material are not always visible, especially on carbon frames. Larger scratches can be an indication of heavy falls. Ask for advice.
You can budget for these costs to refurbish a used bike:
- Tyres: 20 to 50 euros each
- Bearings: headset approx. 25 euros, bottom bracket approx. 25 euros
- Suspension service: approx. 50 to 150 euros per fork/damper
- Drivetrain: chain approx. 20 euros, cassette 50 to 100 euros
The portals for used mountain bikes
Online portals
You can find everything a biker's heart desires on eBay & Co. However, dodgy sellers often hide behind the anonymity. The bike has to be reassembled and adjusted when it is dispatched.
Private sales
Whether at a flea market or at your mate's garage, with a private purchase you can inspect the goods with your own eyes and have someone to contact if you have any questions later.
BIKE LEXICON FOR BEGINNERS
We translate the most common expressions from the jargon used by BIKE testers into understandable German.
"Chassis is full"
When the trail gets rougher downhill, it is the suspension's job to compensate for the unevenness of the ground in order to bring the rider safely and smoothly down into the valley. A plush suspension fulfils this job excellently and manoeuvres the bike through a rough descent with plenty of grip. There is no uncontrolled bouncing from rock to rock with a "plush" suspension.
"Chassis roaring through"
Suspension bottoming out is particularly noticeable in compressions, but also in normal trail use. If the suspension is stressed by a rock or a root and then releases the full suspension travel without much counter-pressure, this is known as bottoming out. Suspensions that bottom out have too little compression damping.
"Direct handling"
Direct handling is when a bike quickly converts every steering movement of the rider into a change of direction without the rider having to pay attention to certain things, such as shifting their weight on the bike.
"Ready-to-ride weight"
Mountain bikes are usually sold without pedals, which is why manufacturers' weight specifications usually only refer to the bike without pedals. The ready-to-ride weight, on the other hand, also includes the approx. 350 grams of pedals. It therefore represents the actual mass to be moved on the trail.
"Feedback from the trail"
Mountain bikes are more comfortable to ride when the suspension filters out all impacts from the ground. However, as a sporty rider in particular, you always want to know what you are riding over or how rough the ground is on the trail. Particularly good mountain bikes absorb all impacts, but always let the rider know what is happening under the tyres. If there is too much feedback, the rear triangle tends to be stubborn.
"Rear end looks lifeless"
Lifeless rear ends give you the feeling that the shock isn't working very hard on fullys. The feedback from the trail explained above is much more pronounced than the rider would like. Bumps from roots or rocks reach the rider without being dampened by the rear end.
MTB equipment for beginners: what you need!
1st helmet
Over the years, the helmet has evolved from a simple polystyrene half-shell to a stylish and well-ventilated "must have" for every biker. For enduro races or bike park visits, we recommend a full-face helmet for more protection. Good helmets are available from 60 euros.
2nd jersey
Biking is sweaty! If you wrap your upper body in a breathable jersey, you will cool down less. A wind waistcoat or thin jacket will help against the wind or on colder days. Perhaps you already have the right clothing in your wardrobe from occasional jogging sessions.
3. trousers
Long journeys in the saddle can be painful, especially for untrained bikers. A good pair of cycling shorts can help. A comfortable seat pad is important. High-quality models have straps for a better fit. If you don't like the tight Lycra look, you can also wear baggy shorts. You can find a cycling shorts test on our website under the webcode #29999
4. shoes
Enduro bikers sometimes use flat pedals, while clipless pedals are the better choice for touring. However, special cycling shoes are required to use these pedals. Inexpensive models with laces or Velcro fasteners are available from 70 euros. You can find a detailed shoe test on our homepage under the web code: #18417
5. protectors
All-mountain and enduro riders often wear lightweight knee pads to protect them in the event of a fall. However, everyone should wear gloves to protect their palms from abrasions. Webcode: #15501
6. rucksack
If the jersey bags don't offer enough storage space for an air pump, mobile phone or car keys, there's no getting around the backpack. There are special bike rucksacks with sophisticated carrier systems. But if you already have a good hiking rucksack at home, you don't need to stock up again. For day tours, a packing volume of approx. 10 litres is sufficient. It is important to be prepared for a hydration bladder. Webcode: #26399
