But the Umbrail Trail does have one disadvantage: a much longer, more difficult pushing and carrying section up to the summit. The shuttle takes you the first 1130 metres in altitude from Sta. Maria in Val Müstair, but from the customs house on the border with Italy, you set off directly on the trail. And right at the first signpost, a small white plaque explains the rules: it says "Consideration". It is accompanied by the equally large symbols of hikers and bikers. This is how it is done almost everywhere in Graubünden - and the trail sharing principle seems to work.
To avoid conflicts from the outset, you should definitely start at the top of the pass before 9am. We are early enough, so there is no time pressure. But the trail ahead of us soon picks up quite a bit in terms of percentage. We manage just under 300 metres in altitude, partly in the saddle, but at the latest when the grass can no longer hold on to the crumbly summit structure of Piz Umbrail, we have to heave the bikes up a rocky climb. Soon we even gratefully accept the safety rope in the wall, although it's not so easy to hold the bike on your shoulder with just one hand - and of course the air gets noticeably thinner at an altitude of 3,000 metres.
Piz Umbrail: Serpentines - from thrill to chill
A good mood only sets in again at the summit. But then it does, because the view is magnificent: the entire Ortler massif stands at attention and glistens in the sun. But our trail wants to go in the other direction, back to Val Müstair. But he's in no hurry. It starts off from the summit in wide serpentines and throws a lot of rubble in front of our tyres. But the exposed track doesn't leave much room for slipping.
After 100 metres down, the situation eases noticeably, even if the path remains rocky. In contrast to the wild, pale grey rocky backdrop up here, our path almost unrolls in front of us like a velvet ribbon. But then, many hairpin bends and steps later, a view opens up in front of us that melts in your mouth like a Mentos sweet: the trail heads towards the Lai da Rims. The small mountain lake lies like a blue eye in its grassy plateau. As a hotel owner, you could almost sell the lake as an infinity pool, the way its water sips from the next step in the terrain. However, very few guests would probably jump in, as the sun's heating rays can't really do much at an altitude of almost 2,400 metres.
And how does the trail climb from this viewing pool down into the valley? In tightly staggered serpentines. Exposed, of course, on this steep slope and rough and bumpy. Even if you often meet hikers here by the lake who look on with interest: A fall up here can be very painful. If in doubt, it's better to push. It would be a shame to miss out on the remaining 800 metres of descent, which are always smoother by nature. Especially when a forest takes us under its wing again at an altitude of 2000 metres. Near Alp Las Castras, we briefly come across a gravel road whose hairpin bends entertain us with trail cut-offs. Then we follow the mountain stream on the right-hand side, changing banks as soon as the first trail fork comes across. An insider tip from local and trail builder Fadri Cazin. The last section on gravel is then circumnavigated on some really fun forest bends before this 1600 metre descent comes to an end just before Sta. Maria.
Information about the MTB trail on Piz Umbrail
The MTB trail from the 3033 metre high Piz Umbrail is challenging. Especially the first sections directly below the summit and the narrow serpentines climb down a steep terrain step from Lai da Rims. And on quite loose ground. As the hairpin bends are also exposed, there is a risk of falling here (S2-S3)!
E-MTB info
The energy balance between E and non-E should not be much different. Without a motor, you will be pushing or carrying almost the entire ascent. With a little technical skill and a motor, however, you can make it to the first carrying section with a safety rope mainly in the saddle, from here you also have to shoulder the E-MTB. The section between the two carrying passages is quite steep and slippery, but you can manage quite well here with a push aid. Alternative with "E": You can save yourself the shuttle from Santa Maria and start at the bottom with the e-bike. But then you should start early and pack a second battery.
Starting point
The tour starts on the 2501 metre-high Umbrail Pass. The best way to get there from Val Müstair is by postbus. Info: postauto.ch
Refreshment tip
Hotel Restaurant Alpina: You pass the traditionally run hotel shortly after the end of the trail in Sta. Maria. Info: alpina-stamaria.ch
GPS data for the tour:
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Gitta Beimfohr
Editor
