The panoramic peaks of Ticino tower between Lake Lugano and Lake Maggiore - connected by the "Route 66" for mountain bikers. A three-day enduro adventure on legendary trails.
The first cable car up Monte Brè doesn't leave until nine. Of course, we could have easily found this out online. We are just about to bridge the waiting time with a coffee in Lugano when Regina discovers another important but small-print note on the homepage of the historic funicular railway: bikes can only be taken from the second section onwards. So the first day of our tour begins unexpectedly with a warm-up. With a cloudless sky, that's not the biggest punishment. The only question is whether our battery management will still work as we had planned. The Route 66 through the Swiss canton of Ticino is actually designed for four days and we have planned three days with the e-MTB. Although we only have to climb 100 metres up to the second section of the railway to Suvigliana, the gradients are quite steep.
Route 66 has long been on our bucket list. But not the original in the USA, where the legendary, first continuously asphalted road link between Chicago and Los Angeles bears the same name. Instead, we decided to take on the unpaved Swiss equivalent in Ticino. A 123-kilometre route that was signposted years ago as a multi-day tour with the number 66 especially for mountain bikers: from Lugano in a wide arc over the panoramic peaks between Lake Lugano and Lake Maggiore to Ponte Tresa. The route over Monte Brè, Monte Bar and Monte Tamaro is said to cover 4136 metres in altitude. But there will also be plenty of panoramic views over the famous lakes and into the Bernese and Valais Alps. We will spend the night in mountain huts and get to know the most beautiful, but also very challenging trails in Ticino, according to the tour description.
High alpine feeling and Mediterranean lightness
That makes it a bit exciting for us, because my bike friend Regina is an absolute cannon when it comes to downhill riding - experienced in the bike park, confident on fast lines. I, on the other hand, like technical uphills and that flow feeling when a blocked climbing trail suddenly goes smoothly. In any case, we both love discovering unknown terrain, which is why we chose the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland. Out of the daily grind and into southern holiday flair. The fact that we opted for an e-MTB on this tour turned out to be absolutely right.
As we roll up to the railway station in Suvigliana, there's just enough time to buy our tickets before the first funicular railway of the day comes up from the valley. It will take us up 500 metres in altitude to Monte Brè. We won't be much faster than on the bikes, but at three metres per second, we can enjoy the view over Lake Lugano in peace: Sparkling silvery like a fjord, it branches its arms southwards around the green mountain flanks.
Once we reach the top, we are greeted by the first "Route 66" signpost and the first gnarly trail descent of the tour: rough, rocky, steep - at least as far as we can see the path up to its first bend. We had read in advance that the adventure over the next few days would unfold somewhere between a high Alpine feeling and Mediterranean ease. In fact, the descent from Monte Brè starts with a good mix: The first high-alpine trail shaker leads into a gravel path that winds relaxedly through a chestnut forest. At lunchtime, we roll past a grotto where we treat ourselves and our batteries to their first charge. Our golden rule: charge early enough so that we can always have fun and never get stuck with an empty battery.
With 80 per cent battery power, we continue towards Capanna del Pairolo, where we are soon tempted by coffee and cake again. There is also a charging station right in front of the hut - it would be negligent not to take advantage of this offer. But we resist the temptation to spend the first night here. The panorama from up here is magnificent and the atmosphere in the house is very relaxed, but if we want to stick to our plan, we still have a few kilometres to go.
The high-altitude trail along the border
But perhaps our trail instincts are telling us that the most spectacular section of the stage still lies ahead of us. We reach a mountain trail on a rather crisp uphill trail. Or rather: a picture-book single trail. Without leaving its contour line significantly, it crosses the meadow slope almost endlessly. It's a shame that the Rifugio San Lucio is closed today, otherwise we would certainly have taken another break here on the Swiss-Italian border. But we still stop every now and then because the view from up here is simply too magnificent. The high-altitude trail undulates only slightly up and down, but also surprises us with tight bends and short blocked sections.
The last hours of this day feel magical. The light becomes softer, the atmosphere more golden, the sunset epic. After around 1800 metres in altitude - many of them on trails - we arrive at the Capanna Monte Bar at 8 pm, pretty exhausted but happy. Showers and a change of clothes? No time. The hut host energetically beckons us to the table: last slot for dinner, after that the kitchen is closed. Okay, we can shower later.
Monte Bar & Monte Tamaro
The next morning, the alarm clock shoos us out of bed at 5.30am. The landlord had advised us last night that the sunrise at the top of Monte Bar was too good to sleep through - and he was right. We are back at the hut by eight o'clock and are soon sitting blissfully in front of a large honey sandwich and a strong coffee. Ready for stage 2.
This starts with a long traverse down to Rivera. Once again, you have to decide: Marvel at the panoramic views across the lake or concentrate on the challenging descent. The 1400 metres in altitude that we pushed into our legs yesterday are now a lot of fun: first rocky and stony, then gentle and soft again at the end through birch and chestnut forests. So much for the warm-up programme, because there's still a lot of work to do today, with the Monte Tamaro a real classic on the programme. Rivera and Monte Tamaro hosted the MTB World Championships in 2003 - the area is still well-known in the community today. But before we tackle the long ascent, we fortify ourselves at the Grotto al Ceneri Monte. Great food, a warm welcome, batteries full to the brim again - what more could you want? Only the limoncello after the meal we decline with thanks. The liqueur doesn't really suit the 1300 metres of altitude that now pile up in front of us.
The ascent starts on tarmac and soon changes to gravel. However, the initially sorted pebbles soon turn into gravel of the worst kind: rough-edged, unpredictably loose, washed out and the whole thing draped in a steep gradient. No chance without an electric boost and a lot of concentration. We don't even realise that it has somehow become darker. But we're lucky: the end of the world starts the moment we reach the safe Capanna Monte Tamaro. As soon as we pull the door shut behind us, it's pouring with rain outside. Inside, it's all the more cosy. The hut owner is already busy in the kitchen with local ingredients from friends: The cheese is supplied by the neighbour, the sausage is from the hunter. We are greeted with a platter, the hot food arrives later. While it's thundering and lightning outside, we still have time for a shower, then we play cards.
Despite the high season, it's surprisingly quiet. Almost only women today. Some have travelled up Monte Tamaro in the gondola. Of course, we could have done that too, but then the food might not have tasted as good.
From the pine tree to the palm shore
The last day starts with a bang: the trail entrance directly from the hut is high alpine, exposed and technically demanding. There are also some clouds hanging in the rocks, which add a very mystical touch to the whole thing. You can't afford to make any riding mistakes here. A few flowing hairpin bends as a warm-up programme would be good now, but: no way. We stumble somewhat awkwardly into the first stepped challenges and soon switch from the northern to the southern flank of the long ridge and the trail picks up speed. First, rocks and scree clatter under the tyres again, then the first roots take hold of the path in the sparse pine forest. Then chestnuts appear again, beech trees - and even palm trees at the end! This trail descent is truly a journey through all of Switzerland's climate zones. But that's not all for today.
At 54 kilometres, the third stage to Ponte Tresa is the longest of the three days, but the easiest in terms of altitude. However, the many trails demand a lot of concentration. We treat ourselves to a cappuccino in Arosio - and although it's still morning, we're already pretty exhausted. We therefore decide to skip Monte Lema and take the easier route over the smaller hills to Lake Lugano. Here, too, there is still a lot to do in terms of trails. When we finally arrive in Ponte Tresa, we could take the train back to the starting point, but we still have battery power to pedal back to Lugano on the cycle path. Plenty of time and space to take stock of the many impressions of this trip. Three days full of trail diversity, landscape cinema, encounters and plenty of reasons to laugh. We had exciting conversations with hikers in the huts. And once again it became clear: with mutual respect, it's possible to work together on the trails. Here's to a gelato!
What you need to know
The 120-kilometre Route 66 is precisely signposted, the weather in Ticino is the sunniest in Switzerland and there are plenty of huts for refreshments, battery charging and individual stage planning.
The Route 66
The multi-day route in the Lugano mountains was signposted many years ago and was an insider tip among enduro riders for a long time. But at some point, word got around that even a world champion like Nino Schurter likes to ride these trails between Lake Lugano and Lake Maggiore. The tour is now considered a classic for trail fans. Some add Monte Lema on the fourth day to include all the classic Ticino peaks, while others try to complete the route in two days. However, it is best to leave enough time for the magnificent summit panorama and the technically demanding trails. Of course, you will have to budget a little more for travelling costs on this trip in Switzerland. An overnight stay in a hut with half board costs just over 100 euros.
The tour
The Ticino MTB route 66 leads from Lugano in a wide arc from east to west over the most scenic peaks between Lake Lugano and Lake Maggiore. The trail descents are long and only recommended for high-alpine terrain if you are a confident rider. An e-MTB is definitely suitable for the long and sometimes steep ascents, but you should also know how to use the battery boost in slightly rough terrain, otherwise you will have to push on some sections. The route is signposted in red and only in one (sensible) direction.
The entire original Route 66 has 120 kilometres, 4500 metres of elevation gain and 6000 metres of descent and is originally planned in four daily stages:
- Stage 1: Lugano - Pairolo, 23 km / 1350 m / 900 tm
- Stage 2: Pairolo - Rivera, 31 km / 860 m / 1750 tm
- Stage 3: Rivera - Miglieglia, 39 km / 1900 m elevation gain / 1700 tm
- Stage 4: Miglieglia - Ponte Tresa, 28 km / 420 m elevation gain / 1700 tm
Nathalie and Regina have divided the tour into 3 stages with their E-MTB experience - with a stop at a mountain hut: a tight programme.
The tour in 3 stages
- Day 1: Lugano - Monte Brè - Capanna del Pairolo - Capanna Monte Bar (38 km/1800 m ascent) -
- Day 2: Capanna Monte Bar - Rivera - Capanna Monte Tamaro (29 km/1470 metres altitude)
- Day 3: Capanna Monte Tamaro - Ponte Tresa - Lugano (54 km/ 1030 m elevation gain)
Level of difficulty
Long pedalling sections and some really deep black trail sections await you on this tour: technically challenging and sometimes exposed. If in doubt, it is better to descend and push in such places.
Battery management
An e-MTB is the better choice because there are a few ramps and a section of singletrack to conquer. Without a motor, you would have to push here in any case. Such passages naturally cost power and if you don't want to skimp on the battery, you should recharge once or twice on the way.
Info about the route
schweizmobil.ch/en/mountainbikeland/route-66
Getting there - how to get there
Unfortunately, there is no direct train connection from Germany to Lugano. The fastest connection from Munich to Lugano takes 5:40 hours, with one change in Zurich.
It takes just under five hours by car to cover the 420-kilometre route without much traffic, but you have to factor in the motorway toll in Austria and the toll sticker in Switzerland.
Best touring time
From June to October: During this time, the summits are free of snow and the huts are open for refreshments and overnight stays. However, be sure to check for any rest days before setting off on the tour!
Overnight stay
On the three-day tour, we spent the night in huts twice. Each time with a shower and good food in the evening and for breakfast:
Stage 1: Capanna Monte Bar in Val Colla (overnight stay in a double room also possible, open: 1 May - 8 November, info: capannamontebar.casticino.ch
Stage 2: Capanna Monte Tamaro (1867 m) in the Valle del Trodo with a view of Lake Maggiore. Open from mid-June to the beginning of October, info: sac-cas.ch
Equipment tips
- Bring your own sleeping bag for overnight stays in a hut
- Rain protection & warm clothing are a must even in midsummer (high alpine terrain!)
- Don't forget the charger and adapter for the e-bike battery
- It is essential to book huts before starting the tour. Many hikers also go on hut tours in the region in summer.
