23 May 1915 is a Sunday. Actually a holy day. But on this day, Italy declares war on Austria-Hungary - and so the First World War is given another terrible and beautiful setting: the mountains between the Stelvio Pass and Sesto. "La Grande Guerra", as the atrocity on the other side of the Brenner Pass is euphemistically and cynically known, had been prepared for years by both sides: monstrous fortresses were built on mountain peaks and vast quantities of deadly artillery were heaved up to 2000 metres above sea level.
Just like on Monte Verena. The Italians proudly call the mountain "Dominatore degli Altipiani" - ruler of the high plateau. The Italians fired the first shell of the mountain war from up here at 3.55 am on 24 May 1915. The target: the Austro-Hungarian gun positions in Luserna. The return fire was not long in coming and on 12 June - just 20 days after "commissioning" - Forte Monte Verena was virtually razed to the ground. The 49 soldiers stationed there lost their lives. They were to be the very first of hundreds of thousands to die in the mountain war between 1915 and 1918. So much for the hellish side of the Sette Comuni.
Sky: 23 June 2024 It's another Sunday. I'm standing on the summit of Monte Verena with my mates Markus and Arno. 2015 metres above things. You can see Luserna far to the west. And the Costa Alba plateau. From there, the 385-kilo shells hit at 1200 kilometres per hour. Fired from a gun with the cynical nickname "slim Emma". The use of the "fat Berta" was probably recognised as unnecessary...
But the war is long over. With all humility - the three of us can't help the madness of our great-grandfathers. We prefer to celebrate freedom and brotherhood. Markus is Austrian, Arno is South Tyrolean, I am German. Together we want to discover one of the most interesting corners of the Veneto: the Sette Comuni, the Seven Municipalities. Over a long weekend, we want to go on three tours that will give us a good first, if by no means exhaustive, insight into this infernal kingdom of heaven.
Monte Verena - Dominatore degli Altipiani
If you want to get from the main town of Asiago up here to 2015 metres above sea level, you need a lot of power. Or like us, e-MTBs. "Let's ride straight up the piste," Markus suggests at the valley station of the slightly quirky ski area called "Verena 2000". So, turbo mode on, upper body over the handlebars and up the steep black piste! Twenty minutes of hard labour for man and machine, then we reach the top. And look into the e-bike paradise: To the north, the Cima di Vezzena stretches boldly into the cloudy sky. To the south - and almost close enough to touch - the Cima di Campolongo drops several hundred metres vertically into the Valle d'Astico.
Here, too, a mighty summit fortress hid from enemy fire a good century ago. Here too, as on Monte Verena: in vain. Those who crank up to the former forte can explore the many corridors, tunnels and halls in peace and quiet. As on neighbouring Monte Verena, the Cima di Campolonga is also a kind of open-air museum. Anyone who sees the horror with their own eyes will never want it to happen again.
Hell: Those who see well are also seen well. In 1915, the lamentable soldiers at the observation post called Forte Spiz Verle had to experience this for themselves. The lookout was built by the Austro-Hungarians directly on the rocky summit of the Cima di Vezzena - and the Italians shelled it non-stop from the second day of the Grande Guerra. Over 6,000 shells were fired at the exposed lookout post 1400 metres above the Valsugana between May 1915 and the end of the war. Hell for the 46-man crew.
A few hundred metres below, in the Forte di Busa Verle, 236 men are stationed. One of them is called Luis Trenker. The Val Gardena native later became a world-famous actor and director. In the mountain war, he is a simple soldier. In the autobiographical novel "Sperrfort Rocca Alta", twenty years after the end of the mountain war, he deals with his terrible experiences.
Heaven: The 110-year-old military roads of the Sette Comuni are often masterpieces of architecture. And never steeper than ten per cent. Perfect for mountain bikers to crank their way to the summit quickly and efficiently. See Verena, Campolongo and Vezzena. But my two fellow riders are already pawing at all the gravel road bumps. They want trails. Admittedly: The plateau of the Seven Municipalities is much more military road country than trail country. But with a bit of flair and pioneering spirit, you can find some really nice narrow trails here too. Like on the Cima di Vezzena. At the wide gravel bend, Arno quickly checks the little path that continues straight ahead and gives it a thumbs up. So finally: trails! And not bad ones at that.
Three hours later: back in the main town of Asiago, we stop off at the "Gran Caffè Adler". And feel like we've been beamed back to the Belle Époque of the turn of the century before last. The wood in the historic splendour of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy is dark, the ashtrays are made of stone and the curtains are heavy as lead. And a doddering old man sits at the next table. Above him hangs a slogan in a strange language. "Z'baibe boda nètt straitet, dar hunt boda nètt pèllt, di khatz boda nètt vånk maüs, mochtmase nètt haltn in haus." In German: "A woman who doesn't swear, a dog that doesn't bark and a cat that doesn't catch mice shouldn't be kept in the house."
That's Cimbrian, Arno knows. An almost forgotten language that came from Bavaria to the Italian Southern Alps a long time ago - especially in Luserna and the Seven Municipalities. In Roana, one of the "Siben Komoin", around 50 people still speak Cimbrian. And they are slowly dying out. But over in Luserna, primary school pupils are learning the language again.
Hell: Salto dei Granatieri
The jump of the grenadiers. What sounds like a nice circus act to the carefree bike tourist turns out to be a horror story: 110 years ago, Monte Cengio was of great strategic importance as the southernmost barrier of the Sette Comuni plateau. Whoever controls Monte Cengio controls the Valle d'Astico, 1000 metres below. So the Italians build supply routes in the vertical rock. But they still had to die. Because when they were surrounded by the Austrians in their rock gallery in June 1916 and ran out of ammunition, some grenadiers saw only one way out: grab an attacker and jump into the depths with him. How desperate can a man be?
Heaven: Markus, Arno and I flee from a thunderstorm to the Rifugio al Granatiere. The shelter looks exactly like a pub in the middle of nowhere should: A chewing gum machine and leftover flies, both from the eighties. A climbing group is celebrating their summit victory in style. And a spindly waiter serves sausage sandwiches, lemon soda and coffee. This is exactly what I love: no style, but an overdose of cordiality. I could sit here all day. The only problem: we still have 1000 metres to go. On a trail - but we have to wait until the sky outside becomes peaceful again.
I like bike regions that have something to tell. Anyone travelling with open eyes and an interest in the country, people and culture will love the Seven Municipalities! - BIKE tour author Andreas Kern
What you need to know
The Sette Comuni - or the Asiago plateau - lie between 700 and 1200 metres above sea level. As a frontline area of the First World War, it is criss-crossed by historic military roads - a paradise for classic touring bikers.
How to get there
Travelling by train and bus is complicated and not recommended. The quickest way to reach the Seven Municipalities by car is via the Brennero motorway: Brennero motorway, Trento-Nord exit, past Lake Caldonazzo and up the Kaiserjägerweg to Passo di Vezzena. From there to Asiago, the main town on the plateau (387 km from Munich).
Best time to travel
Thanks to its southerly location, the touring season around Asiago lasts from the beginning of May until well into October (best touring time!). Only in the high altitudes around the two-thousand metre peaks of Cima Portule, Cima Dodici and Monte Ortigara can old and fresh snow put a brake on touring luck before and after.
Do not miss
The plateau of the Seven Municipalities is not only heaven for mountain bikers, but also for those interested in culture. Two museum tips for bad weather days: the Istituto di Cultura Cimbra in Via Romeo Sartori 20 in Roana and the Museo della Grande Guerra in Via Roma 60 in Roana.
Overnight stay
We didn't stay overnight in Asiago, but in the Valle d'Astico: "La Casa di Alice" in Via G. Pascoli 6 in Cogollo del Cengio. A double room there costs 90 euros including breakfast. Info: www.alicehouse.it
Refreshment tip
The first address for a sophisticated après-bike aperitif: the time-honoured Gran Caffè Adler in the heart of Asiago on Piazza Carli 59.
Maps
Analogue navigation with paper maps has a big advantage on the plateau: you can find lots of secret trails on the 1:25,000 topographical maps. For example, the one from Monte Cengio down into the Valle d'Astico (Tour 3). The Tabacco maps are the most accurate.
- Sheet 050 "Altopiano dei Sette Comuni - Asiago - Monte Ortigara" (2021/ price: 11.90 euros) and
- Sheet 057 "Levico - Altopiani di Folgaria Lavarone e Luserna" (2023/ Price: 13,90 Euro)
General information
Palazzo del Turismo, Via Millepini 1, Asiago, tel. 0039/04 24/600290, www.asiago.to
On the page www.visitaltopianoasiago.com you will find many suggestions for mountain bike tours around Asiago.
The 3 top tours of the Sette Comuni
Cima di Vezzena, Monte Verena and Monte Cengio: there are countless other tours, but these three routes tell the most moving stories.
Tour 1: Up the Cima di Vezzena
- Length: 42 kilometres
- Uphill: 1445 metres in altitude
- Trail share: 6 per cent
- Difficulty: S2-S3
The tour
Starting point: At the Ristorante Ghèrtele (as described here) or at the Passo di Vezzena.
Great panoramic tour to the most spectacular panoramic mountain in the Sette Comuni - the perfect start to a seven-community trip! From the Ristorante Ghèrtele (1133 m), cross the main road and cycle along lonely military roads to the Casare delle Mandrielle (1593 m) and past the Malga Camporosa (1451 m) to the Passo di Vezzena (1421 m). This is where the actual ascent to the Cima di Vezzena begins. If you are travelling by E-MTB, you should keep an eye on the battery status and recharge at the Hotel Vezzena if necessary. After a few minutes, you will pass the ruins of the Busa Verle barrage. Caution: the building is in danger of collapsing! You then work your way up 500 metres to the summit on a military road. After the breathtaking 1400-metre view, you can either roll back down on the familiar path or take trail no. 205, after which a constant ascent and descent begins on wide military roads towards the east to the Cima Portule (2308 m), the second highest mountain in the Seven Municipalities, visible from afar. Near the Agritur Malga Larici (1625 m), the fast descent begins on a wide track down to the starting point at the Ristorante Ghèrtele.
Key points: The only tough trail nut to crack is trail no. 205. This begins in the third bend of the descent from the summit and circles round to the main trail at S2/S3 level.
Retreat: At the top of the pass: Hotel Vezzena (hotelvezzena.com). After the Cima di Vezzena in the Rifugio or in the Agritur Malga Larici. Also possible: Ristorante Ghèrtele (ristoranteghertele.it) and the Malga Camporosa.
Tour 2: Monte Verena and Campolongo
- Length: 20.5 kilometres
- Uphill: 810 metres in altitude
- Trail share: 16 per cent
- Difficulty: S0-S2
The tour
Starting point: Agritur Malga Campovecchio
A short but challenging trip to two summit fortresses with great views and interesting history: From the car park at Agritur Malga Campovecchio (1593 m), take the access route downhill for two kilometres to Bocchetta di Campolongo (1536 m). Shortly before the refuge, turn left and climb the almost 200 metres in altitude through the forest to the ex Forte di Campolongo. After the visit, head downhill on the familiar path, then straight ahead at the prominent bend to the right and on trail no. 810 towards Caverna del Sciason. Through a fairytale forest, you return to the Rifugio Campolongo and take the familiar path up to the ski area car park. You can whizz up the ski piste on an e-MTB. Organic bikers are better off following the track that branches off to the right directly at Malga Campovecchio (trail no. 820). Both ascents meet just before the five distinctive hairpin bends below the summit. After sightseeing around the summit, take the familiar route and continue straight ahead at the fifth hairpin bend. Take trail no. 820 first to the former Rossapoan battery and then via Malga del Quarti back to the car park at Agritur Malga Campovecchio.
Key points: Between Cima di Campolongo and the Caverna del Sciason cave, which is well worth seeing, and further on to the Rifugio Campolongo, many small S1 and S2 sections await you in the fairytale forest.
Retreat: Chalet Grizzly at the valley station of the ski area. On the way to the ex Forte Campolongo: Rifugio Campolongo (overnight stay also possible). At the summit of Monte Verena: Rifugio Forte Verena (www.rifugioforteverena.it).
Tour 3: To Monte Cengio
- Length: 21.4 kilometres
- Uphill: 1084 metres in altitude
- Trail share 49 per cent
- Difficulty: S2-S3
The tour
Starting point: If you are staying overnight in one of the seven municipalities, start the tour at Rif. al Granatiere. If you are staying in the Valle d'Astico, start in Cogollo del Cengio (as described here).
Exciting crossing of the Cengio escarpment with a challenging trail into the Valle d'Astico: from Cogollo (356 m), follow the old road up 900 metres in countless hairpin bends to the hamlet of Giordani. A small tarmac road leads westwards to the Rifugio al Granatiere. Past the chapel, a military road winds its way through the deciduous forest to a square with information boards. From here, you conquer the summit of Monte Cengio (1354 m) on a steep and challenging path. Return briefly along the same route, then head south through several tunnels. Take the narrow rocky path back to the vicinity of the Rifugio al Granatiere. If the thrill is enough for you, you can be at the Rifugio a minute later. If you want to experience even more thrills, ride (and push) on the narrow path no. 651 below the vertical cliffs to the east to descend to Cogollo at Col Mandre in a fall line. A real adventure! On the way there are several emergency exits over to the access road.
Key points: The ascent to Monte Cengio is long and strenuous. The gallery trail itself is not particularly difficult, but very exposed! On the Sentiero 651 trail descent, only absolute riding technique masters will be happy. Precise rear wheel offset on steep terrain is a must!
Retreat: The Rifugio al Granatiere on Monte Cengio is the only place to stop for refreshments.
The GPS data of the tours
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