"Damn, is there no end to this?" Tobi is already suffering on our first stage. Shouldering his bike, he struggles up the slippery gravel path. Axel tries pushing. I had sent them both the GPS track of the planned route in advance. They knew that the tour starts with a 1900 metre ascent. For my mate Axel, long tours in the high mountains are familiar terrain, almost a passion. For 22-year-old freerider Tobi, on the other hand, this stage tour is a first, without a shuttle or lift. But the lure of new trails and mountain bike adventures was great and he wanted to join us. We have now been collecting metres in altitude for over four hours. Most of the time in the saddle, but the last ramp up to the Pasubio ridge is simply too steep, the scree too loose. For the first time, we get an idea of the hardships the mountain troops had to endure during the First World War. Even just to haul the heavy equipment up this mountain. We also want to get to the top and work our way along the ridge to the battlefields. After twenty minutes of climbing, we have made it.
On old war trails by bike to the Pasubio summit
Tobi can also laugh again when he discovers the next route. The MTB trail now balances endlessly on a ledge along the southern slope until it slips through a gap in the ridge to the other side of the mountain. Riding again at last, albeit not relaxed. The path leads too boldly along the precipice in places. How can a person have the idea of waging war up here? We won't find an answer. Only more questions the closer we get to the epicentre of the fighting. Shortly after crossing the Piccolo Roite saddle, you can get an idea of the dimensions. The mountain flank is riddled with holes like a Swiss cheese. Cold, dark caves where the soldiers eked out an existence in summer and winter. We take a break at the Seven Crosses, below the old battlefields.
Up to the Rifugio Achille Papa at the Pasubio saddle
Although the Monte Pasubio massif was only a small section of the many hundreds of kilometres long front, the two years of fighting reached an absurd climax up here. On the ridge above us, the Italians and Austrians faced each other on two peaks just a few hundred metres apart, today known as Dente Italiano and Austriaco. When not a metre of ground could be gained, the troops began to undermine each other. The race ended with a massive blast that caused the Italian slab to collapse completely. A hiking trail leads through the rubble up to the former summit positions. Unfortunately, our time is too short for a detour, we have to keep going. We make a stop at the Rifugio Achille Papa, which clings to the Pasubio saddle like an eagle's nest, before setting off.
The Strada delle 52 Gallerie - once a celebrated Moser classic
The Strada delle 52 Gallerie at Rifugio Papa is another testimony to the madness of war. In order to secure the supply of building materials and ammunition, the Italian Alpini drilled a road with 52 tunnels, some of which twisted like a corkscrew, through the mountain up to the Pasubio saddle. In this way, they were safe from the fire of the Austrian Kaiserjäger. It's hard to imagine how entire artillery pieces were manoeuvred through the rock tunnels to the positions with the help of pack animals. Bikers have been banned from travelling this unique road for many years. We console ourselves with a descent on the no less spectacular Strada degli Eroi, which plunges into the depths on the other side of the gigantic mountain basin.
Day 2: Over Monte Novegno
The descent from Rifugio Campogrosso to Valli del Pasubio is varied and offers just the right amount of technical challenges. In the valley, it's time for a second cappuccino in the shade of the mighty village church of Santa Maria. After a rest, Monte Novegno throws all the day's metres in altitude at your feet. Up to the hamlet of Santa Caterina, you can take it easy on a moderate tarmac gradient, but then the gravel really picks up to the summit. From now on, there are countless panoramic views of the finest quality, crowned by what is probably the most beautiful trail section of the entire tour.
On the northern edge of the small plateau on Monte Novegno, a monument adorned with rusty shell casings and barbed wire once again reminds us of the bloody past. Like the main Pasubio ridge, this mountain ridge is also covered with a network of emplacements and a labyrinth of trenches.
The Novegno, also known as "the last mountain" at the time, had to be defended at all costs, as it was the last hurdle for the Austrians before the invasion of the Po Valley. Today, the old road network gives us a dream trail down to Arsiero, which gives the impression that it was created especially for bikers. It swings flowingly along the slope and overcomes all kinds of rockfalls and edges.
Freerider Tobi is once again fully motivated downhill and tickles the last millimetre of suspension travel out of his bike chassis. Our grins couldn't be wider as we roll into the hamlet of Crosara, our destination for the day.
Day 3: Over the Dosso del Sommo back to Rovereto
On the last stage of the three-day Pasubio MTB tour, the route continues to follow the front lines of the First World War. It is difficult to mobilise your legs once again for the last big climb up to the Lavarone plateau. But the exciting course of the military road over the Passo della Pianella dispels fatigue with every bend. The rocky basin, dominated by Monte Tormeno, seems like an insurmountable barrier. Even in the furthest corners, settlements cling to the steep slopes. But miraculously, the track always finds a way out. And typically for a historic transport route, the gradient is pleasant. Even before the fighting on the Pasubio began, the border between Italy and Austria ran across the Lavarone region. It was only when the Italians failed in their attempt to advance into Val Sugana and Trento that the Kaiserjäger launched a major offensive to the south. Monstrous fortresses on the peaks where the guns were positioned bear witness to this. Like at Dosso del Sommo, which we reach as the highest point of the stage. The alpine meadows around the then Austrian fort are littered with bomb craters. Apparently, the Italian artillery fired over 4000 shells at the bastion over the course of a summer. The sight of the destroyed walls still evokes an oppressive feeling today. Especially when you think of the current events in Eastern Europe. We look over to the Pasubio one last time, the crest of which is now shrouded in clouds. Then we plunge into the final descent to Rovereto.
By mountain bike through the Pasubio
Total: 131.7 kilometres / 5154 vertical metres / 3 stages
Stage 1: Rovereto - Rif. Campogrosso
- Length: 44 kilometres
- Uphill: 2230 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 977 metres in depth
- Difficulty: difficult
Tip: Make sure you take enough water with you on the first stage. You can only fill up again at the top of the Coe Pass at kilometre 23!
Tour description stage 1
The first stage from Rovereto to the Rifugio Campogrosso crosses the entire Pasubio massif in its entirety. The first ascent from the Adige Valley up to an altitude of 2000 metres is a real challenge. The asphalt surface has its advantages on the first 16 kilometres. Fortunately, the Rif. Vincenzo Lancia provides an opportunity for refreshment, because after that it's all downhill: It's all bite up to the ridge. The exposed, long trail over the Sella Piccolo Roite to the Rif. Achille Papa takes more energy. The grandiose descent on the Strada degli Eroi is not yet the finale, however. Another 300 metres in altitude await on a brittle military road to the stage finish. However, the Little Dolomites are a worthy backdrop and distraction here.
Highlights: The panorama on the Pasubio Ridge Trail is outstanding. At the Seven Crosses, the trail leads right through the battlefields of the First World War.
Key points: Short sections of the ridge trail are blocked and eroded. Danger of slipping! The Ponte Avis suspension bridge requires a head for heights!
Retreat: Drinking water is rare on the road. The only refill stations: Fountain in the hamlet of Giazzera (km 13), Rif. Lancia (km 21) and Rif. Achille Papa (km 28).
Overnight stay: Rifugio Campogrosso, rifugiocampogrosso.com
Stage 2: Rif. Campogrosso - Arsiero
- Length: 44 kilometres
- Uphill: 1229 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 2276 metres in depth
- Difficulty: difficult
Tour description stage 2
The second stage towards Arsiero looks a little less demanding in the elevation profile than it actually is. Above all, however, you should plan enough time to enjoy the fantastic trails and views. Right after breakfast, the first trail of the day puts a big smile on your face: the descent to Valli del Pasubio is varied and offers just the right amount of challenge. In the valley, there's time for a second cappuccino in the shade of the village church of Santa Maria, after which Monte Novegno throws all the day's metres in altitude at your feet. Up to the hamlet of Santa Caterina, you can take it easy on the moderate tarmac gradient, but then the gravel really picks up to the summit. From now on, there are countless panoramic views of the finest quality, crowned by what is probably the most beautiful trail section of the entire tour.
Highlights: The view from the Rif. Campogrosso to the Little Dolomites is a dream, just like the following trail descent to Valli del Pasubio. Also top: the final descent to Arsiero.
Key points: Apart from a few sections that require solid riding technique, you can simply enjoy the stage. The slope trail on Monte Novegno is exposed in places.
Retreat: In Valli del Pasubio there are several bars, cafés and a small alimentari. In Santa Caterina (km 19.5) there is a fountain at the church. The Baita Novegno awaits you at the top of the last climb.
Overnight stay: Albergo Irma, ristoranteirma.it
Stage 3: Arsiero - Rovereto
- Length: 43.7 kilometres
- Uphill: 1695 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 1900 metres depth
- Difficulty: difficult
Tour description stage 3
The journey from Arsiero back to Rovereto leads along the southern edge of the Lavarone plateau, another heavily contested area with numerous forts and fortresses. The ascent to the plateau is once again on an old military road hidden in a secluded valley near Arsiero. Moderate gradients and many hairpin bends make the climb a pleasure. At Passo Coe, you briefly come across the road that connects the Veneto and Trentino regions - and thus occasionally encounter an unusually large number of people. This is followed by a couple of tough uphill ramps to Dosso del Sommo, a monumental fortress. The finale requires a little more energy and full concentration. This is because the long trail descent from Monte Finonchio down into the Adige Valley contains some loose rubble (but can be avoided on the easier gravel road).
Highlights: Between the Passo Pianella and the Passo Coe, the trail balances impressively along the crumbling cliff edge. Be careful of hikers on the tricky trails at the end!
Key points: The trail from Dosso del Sommo to Serrada has a few pitfalls, but the rather steep trail from Monte Finonchio with its typical Lake Garda scree is more challenging.
Retreat: Water is in short supply on the first half of the stage. Last well at the hamlet of Busati Grisi (km 5). Refreshments are only available again at Lago Coe or at the top of the Coe Pass (km 23). There are also bars and cafés in Serrada.
The GPS data for the Pasubio tour:
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