The Zittau Mountains are Germany's smallest low mountain range and run along the German-Czech border in the south-easternmost tip of Saxony. With an extension of around 50 by 25 kilometres, it allows mountain bikers to discover every corner of the unspoilt landscape in a short space of time. Above all, however, it impresses with its trail connections to the neighbouring Czech Republic. Always mystical companions on our excursions: bizarre rock formations reminiscent of Moab and green mountain cones from ancient volcanic times.
A soft ringing, then a hiss, then the ringing and the hiss again, only a little louder. Like the beat of an electropop song, this rhythm picks up speed until the whole thing turns into a single hissing noise. It's hot and stuffy in here, and the smell of burning coals is reminiscent of my grandma's old blazing stove on cold winter days. Except that it's not my grandma who's adding briquettes, but a sweating man with a shovel. Shovel by shovel, he heaves the coal into the boiler chimney. The three of us are allowed to admire the locomotive of one of the last steam-powered narrow-gauge railways in Germany and are not only in the way of the shovelling stoker, but probably also the engine driver. But when do you get the chance to see something like this live instead of in an old western?
Trail adventure Zittau in the east of Saxony
Adventure - a word with a lot of room for interpretation. It often has to do with long journeys, distant countries, foreign languages and fascinating smells. This time, however, our adventure lies just four hours' drive from home, in the easternmost tip of Germany, almost exactly on the border with the Czech Republic and Poland. Holger Feist, Daniel Schaefer and I want to spend five days here in the Zittau Mountains, Germany's smallest low mountain range. We want to finally experience the much-praised trails for ourselves, savour the Saxon and Czech cuisine and maybe even learn a bit of the language.
It takes just under an hour to drive from the centre of Zittau to Oybin, where we want to start our first trail tour. The small spa town lies in a green basin, from the centre of which a freestanding sandstone rock and castle ruins rise almost surreally. "The mountain is also called Oybin," explains our guide Philipp Herfort. He is used to visitors rubbing their eyes at the sight because it almost looks like Elvenland, the way the old houses of Oybin nestle at the foot of this rock tower. But the reasons why Philipp called us are different: "You absolutely have to come to us in Sachsenländle, you've never ridden trails like this in Germany before. I'll show you a mixture of Canada, the USA and Scotland!"
However, the start is pretty German: a sweat-inducing climb along a wide forest path. They lead us to the Töpferbaude, a restaurant with sensational views over Olbersdorf and Zittau to the Landeskrone, the local mountain and landmark of the town of Görlitz, 35 kilometres away. To the east, you can see a huge, active open-cast mine. "That's already over in Poland," says Philipp. We should actually stop off at the Töpferbaude, but coffee and American-style cake from the railway dining car are still in our stomachs.
That's why we prefer to get straight onto the trail. A forest path that not only changes direction horizontally, but also occasionally climbs up a root-covered ramp. But at some point it eases off and we surf along on a carpet of pine needles, from which sandstone rocks emerge again and again. The smaller ones serve as jump ramps, the larger ones can be used as wall rides. But it's always the same when you're particularly sure of yourself: suddenly, a wet, slippery root grabs across the path.
Grippy trails along the green border, garlic soup & beef tartare in between
"Offbassn, it's about to get steep up ahead," Philipp had shouted. But by then it was already too late for me. As I pull myself up and straighten my handlebars, I think to myself: the last time I had a front wheel slip like this was on the permanently damp trails on Canada's Pacific coast. But the sandstone surface, which soon becomes compacted under our tyres, doesn't seem to fit the bill. A surprisingly grippy steep descent that is more reminiscent of the red rocks of Moab. Now it's time to keep the handlebars straight and not brake too much. We meet up at the next fork in the road and you can see Holger's grin: These are trails after his own heart.
Again and again, the trails balance along border stones and then tip over informally into the neighbouring country. Sometimes only for a barely noticeable detour, but sometimes in such a way that a refreshment stop with an exotic menu of the day is offered. After such an extensive Czech lunch with garlic soup and beef tartare in the old police station in Krompach, it is not so easy to get back on track.
The bizarre sandstone formations look down on us like frozen giants and lend the autumn forest a fairytale atmosphere. We only realise that the forest around us is not in good shape when Philipp points out: "The bark beetle has become a real nuisance. Many forests have to be cleared and the workers are not exactly squeamish about it. Unfortunately, their heavy machinery often destroys the trails." However, after a short pause, he adds mischievously: "But where one trail is destroyed, two new ones are created in no time at all."
When it rains, we head to the Pod Smrkem trail centre in the Czech Republic
The weather app tells us in the evening that rain is forecast for the next day. "No problem, we'll go to the trail centre in the Czech Republic tomorrow," Philipp waves it off. The famous Singltrek Pod Smrkem with its trail network of more than 100 kilometres is just 30 kilometres from Zittau. "It's the perfect bad weather programme," explains Philipp. "The trails there were created especially for bikers. In other words, the surface is extremely stable even in wet conditions. And it's supposed to be really snowy tomorrow."
When I try to climb out of our motorhome the next day, I realise what is meant by "dreeschn". It's raining cats and dogs, as they say here in Franconia. There, you would simply close the door again and abandon the idea of a bike tour. Here, however, it remains the same: bikes in the car and off to the Czech park!
An almost Scottish flair awaits us in Pod Smrkem. The trails head into the forest and immediately pump up and down through the hills and around the tree trunks. Their curves are immaculately shaped and inbuilt waves can be used as momentum generators. Once you have picked up enough speed, these waves can also be used as officially wide doubles, as Daniel impressively demonstrates. We see him bouncing through the woods like a bouncy ball.
We only realise that it's raining non-stop when we're standing in front of the trail centre café again after three hours and have to think about whether we can even go in there so dripping wet. "Sure!" says Philipp. "Now it's time for a nice Klobasa. Just the thing after such a ride!" Daniel and Holger can only confirm this and order a second sausage straight afterwards. By contrast, the first Slovakian smoked speciality, "refined" with crackling fat, is already in my stomach.
The tours over the next few days take us from the flooded open-cast mining lake near Olbersdorf to the fascinating goblet sandstone formations and the Oybin castle ruins, where a path leads us through the deep, moss-covered castle moat. We have a little race with the steam locomotive, which we even win on the uphill section, and we manage the technical Töpfer Trail with its spectacular stone field without falling. Most of the trails wind their way through the forest, but we also pass a number of small viewing cliffs that allow us to look out over the Zittau Mountains.
On the last evening, when everyone is in the motorhome and the lights have already gone out, I reflect on our last five days here in Zittau. It really doesn't always have to be the most distant countries to immerse yourself in a completely different world. But by then the boys have already dozed off. Well then, have a good night's sleep and see you later!
Info Zittau Mountains
The precinct
The Zittau Mountains are Germany's smallest low mountain range and measure 20 by 25 kilometres. It presses into the easternmost corner of the country on the Polish and Czech borders. The Saxons share half of the mountain range with the Czech Republic, where it Lusatian Mountains is called. The highest peak is the 793 metre high Lausche. However, most of the trails can be found in the somewhat smaller, cone-shaped peaks. Large parts of the Zittau Mountains have also been declared a nature park because of its bizarre basalt towers and sandstone cliffs. Most of the trails are permitted for biking, but signs regularly indicate that hikers have priority.
Excursions into the Lusatian Mountains
The southern, Czech side of the mountains is much more remote and is easily accessible via various green borders. There is even a small bike park with a chairlift (Liberec) and four downhill trails on the Jeschken (1012 m). Info: www.skijested.cz
The GPS data for three extended trail tours across the border to Lausche, Hochwald and the Elefantensteinen can be found in the Lusatian Mountains area guide >>
Overnight stay
The towns of Zittau, Olbersdorf and Oybin offer a range of accommodation from guesthouses to hotels. Beautiful campsite: See-Camping Zittau. The campsite is family-run with great attention to detail. Spacious, flat camp site with free choice of pitches, bakery, toilet block and herb garden. Prices: Camper van from 7 euros, tent 5.50 euros, per person 7.50 euros per day. Camping huts: 25 euros plus 7.50 euros per person per day. www.seecamping-zittau.com
Best accommodation in the Lusatian Mountains with top cuisine: Malevil Resort in Jablonné, www.malevil.cz
Bike shops
- Spare parts, repairs and bikes are available at JJ-Bikes in Zittau, jj-bikes.com
- Pakli Sport in Jablonné: the best address on the Czech side. Run by the organiser of the Malevil Marathon. www.paklisport.cz
Singltrek Pod Smrkem
If you're ever in the area, a visit to one of Europe's most iconic trail centres is a must. Pod Smrkem is located just 30 kilometres from Zittau and now offers a trail network of 100 kilometres in length. As most of the trails are reinforced with crushed sand, you can shred here with a clear conscience even in wet weather. Suitable for the whole family! Info: www.podsmrkem.singltrek.cz
Eat and drink well
Töpferbaude with an ingenious view over Olbersdorf, Zittau as far as the Landeskrone in Görlitz, 35 kilometres away, or the huge, active open-cast mine in Poland.
Kammbaude: Restaurant with GDR charm at the foot of the Hochwald forest attracts diners with typical regional dishes such as Oberlausitzer Stupperle (potato dumplings with sauerkraut and bacon). However, national Czech cuisine is also very popular. The garlic soup served with a Czech beer is a must!
District highlights
O-See Challenge
The cross triathlon has been held on the shores of Lake Olbersdorf since 2004. It now has up to 1500 starters and is part of the international XTerra series. This year, the German champions will also be determined in this discipline. The distances for the pros: 1.5 km swim, 37 km mountain bike, 10 km trail run. Date: 18-20 August, entry fee: 60 euros, info: www.o-see-challenge.de
MTB events
Malevil Cup: Due to its high proportion of singletrack, the Malevil Marathon was even contested for the European Championship title last year. However, professional racers such as Karl Platt and Alban Lakata rarely miss out on this race in Hermanice v Podještˇedí. The two main distances of 100 km/2230 metres and 70 km/1540 metres commute across the national borders between Heˇrmanice v Podještˇedí (start) and Oybin. Entry fee 38 euros, next date: 17.6.2023, registration: www.malevilcup.cz
Further events
- Upper Lusatian Mountain Bike Marathon on 27 August 2023
- Bohemian Border Bash Race with 1300 km (Gravel) from 2-9 July 2023, www.borderbash.cc
- Blue-Stone Race of Mountainbiking: Mountain race for teams of two on 11.9.23
Film City Görlitz
The sets of The Reader, Quentin Tarantino's Inglourious Basterds or The Grand Budapest Hotel by Wes Anderson are always worth a visit, www.goerlitz-tourismus.de
MTB region Zittauer Gebirge - The 3 best trail tours
Tour 1: Kalle's volcano tour
Tour data & elevation profile
- Length: 25.2 kilometres
- Uphill: 734 metres in altitude
- Riding technique: medium
Description of the
A beautiful loop around the striking, green volcanic cones of Straßberg, Jonsberg and Ameisenberg to the south of Lückendorf. The tour has a total trail section of just under eleven kilometres. From Olbersdorf, you roll directly into the forest and take the first fun trails towards Eichgraben and the state border to warm up. Then you follow the western bank of the Weißbach stream along the border slightly uphill until the steep trail climb branches off to the right below the Lessewand. Many people will have to push this 60 metre climb. The trail circles the Straßberg and soon passes the climatic health resort of Lückendorf to the south. Here, too, there is another two-kilometre stretch of trail that is really fun. You rejoin the border trail (uphill) and cycle up to Hain, where the tour turns back to the German side. For the final ascent, you take the forest path over the Johannisstein to the striking volcanic peak of the Jonsberg, the highest point of the tour. Then it's 300 metres downhill on a colourful mix of trails back to Olbersdorf station.
Tour 2: From Lake Olbersdorf to Lake Christina
Tour data & elevation profile
- Length: 39.9 kilometres
- Uphill: 1033 metres in altitude
- Riding technique: medium
Description of the
From Lake Olbersdorf with a wide southern loop to the 749 metre high Hochwald forest and over panoramic, wild trail loops to Lake Christina in the Czech Republic. This excursion into the neighbouring country from one lake to the other contains almost 17 kilometres of trails. Most of them are easy to ride. It starts on the shores of Lake Olbersdorf with a 14-kilometre long, more uphill than downhill stretch into the nature park. After Hain, this climb culminates in the tarmac ramp up to Hochwald. This border summit is now the start of a veritable firework display of trails: downhill along the border stones and finally in wide loops around the sandstone formations of Brandhöhe, Scharfenstein and Plattenstein. The route continues over to the 582 metre high Töpfer. Its ramps are crisp, but lead past the Gratzer Felsen rocks with great views for trail fun. A gravel climb then takes you over the border to the Czech Republic and up to the third panoramic peak in the group, the Pfaffenstein (565 metres). Here there is another long trail descent over the Görsdorfer Spitzberg, which finally ends after 300 metres at the shore of Lake Christina.
Tour 3: O-See-XTerra-Round
Tour data & elevation profile
- Length: 36.7 kilometres
- Uphill: 1081 metres in altitude
- Riding technique: medium
Description of the
The MTB competition course of the famous O-See Challenge is also fun at a relaxed weekend pace. Especially if you are thinking about taking part in Germany's most iconic cross triathlon. This year, the German champions will once again be determined here. The starting shot is fired on the shore of Lake O and leads past the Kaltenstein holiday home near Olbersdorf into the forest towards Hochwald. On the way there, the long loop around Oybin takes the Glückauf circular route below the Brandhöhe with all its sandstone sculptures. The final ascent of 200 metres on a steep trail is a bit tricky (competition course!), but is rewarded with a great panoramic view from the border summit and an exciting trail descent down to Hain. Then it's a wild up and down via Johannisstein, Höllenweg, Katzenkerbe and Ochsenstein back to Olbersdorf. Shortly before the village, the route runs parallel to the steam railway track and then turns right again to circle the Ameisenberg (575 m). This means another 200 metres of uphill trail, but with plenty of views and a rewarding descent. Then along the banks of the Goldbach stream back to Lake O.
