What a contrast! Just a moment ago, we were hurtling down one of those wild Vosges trails with big grins on our faces: springy forest floor, roots, rocky passages, adrenaline pumping. A gentle breeze blew over the ridge. Blue sky. Golden autumn sun. Yes! This is exactly how we had imagined it: enjoying the last warm autumn days to the full in the French bike paradise. With dream trails stretching to the horizon. Good food. And above all, without any driving bans like back home in the Black Forest. Now, however, we stand slightly dazed in front of a memorial stone in the middle of the dishevelled mountain forest and read on the plaque: "In the First World War, almost 17,000 young French and Germans died here on the Lingekopf mountain range within three months." A senseless slaughter. Trenches still furrow the forest floor today. Winding, undulating trails wrap around old grenade funnels: fun to ride, but at the same time infinitely devastating.
"My great-grandfather had to fight here in the First World War. Shell funnels are the silent witnesses of this time." Andrea Köngeter
"Anyone travelling by bike in the Vosges will come across these witnesses to the past everywhere," says Andrea from our small bike group: "My great-grandfather had to fight here too. At the Hartmannsweilerkopf. Not far away at all." He survived the madness, but never returned to the French low mountain range - although he always wanted to and, like Andrea, came from the neighbourhood: from the Kaiserstuhl on the French-German border. A stone's throw away, so to speak. But he was unable to overcome the barrier in his mind until his death.
Today, the monuments, memorials and military cemeteries that can be found throughout the forests here have fortunately long since symbolised peace and reconciliation. The fact that the great-granddaughter of a soldier can enjoy a relaxed bike ride here today makes this clear. And perhaps also the banal fact that the official enduro single trail of the local mountain bike club starts right next to one of the old bunkers. And this line is all about having fun: berms, jumps, root steps and berms peacefully shake hands here. When we arrive in Hohrod, pumped full of happy hormones, and immediately tackle the long climb back up to the main Vosges ridge, even the sad thoughts have long since vanished.
A few days earlier. "The weather forecast is perfect," says Andrea on the phone. "Maybe the last opportunity this year for our trail weekend in the Vosges. So, come on!" I don't have to think long: I've spent far too little time on my bike and far too much time at my desk over the past few weeks. And when I have been able to, I've almost always got into trouble with angry hikers along the way. Because of the two-metre rule at my home in the Black Forest. Or it was pouring with rain. So, let's go and clear our heads! What's more, there is probably no better travelling companion for a trip to the Vosges than the three people I finally meet up with at the Ferme Auberge du Kahlenwasen on Friday evening.
Big round on the Petit Ballon, also known as the Kahler Wasen
We want to set off from the mountain inn the next morning on an extended tour around the Petit Ballon. The Kahle Wasen, as the mountain is called in Alsatian, lies high above the Vallée de Munster. And because almost all the accommodation on the heights is fully booked for this weekend, we already know that we will have to move to a farmhouse on the other side of the valley. But that broadens our horizons and the tour options too. Andrea, André and Rudy know the Vosges mountains inside out. Of course, as the owner and guides of the cycle tour operator Beitune, that goes without saying. "The Vosges have almost become my second home, at least as far as biking is concerned," says Andrea over a glass of Alsatian red wine in the Ferme Auberge in the evening. She lives with André near Freiburg and has the Black Forest right on her doorstep. "But we hardly ever cycle there privately.
"The Vosges are simply wilder, more unspoilt and, for me anyway, one of the most beautiful bike regions in Europe." Andrea Köngeter
The two low mountain ranges look almost like twins on the map! A look at the history of the earth proves that before the Rhine plain collapsed over 50 million years ago, the Black Forest and the Vosges formed a single, huge mountain range. Today, however, the French side is much wilder and more pristine. There are other things that have changed for the better in the Vosges since prehistoric times. For example, the mentality of the inhabitants: laissez-faire on the one hand, regulatory mania on the other. "Not only are there an incredible number of trails in the Vosges, almost all of which are rideable," enthuses Andrea. "Above all, it's more relaxed between people. Nobody grumbles here because there are no blanket bike bans like over here." Rudy, the third member of the group, even moved from Belgium to Alsace years ago because of the fantastic conditions and the love, as he says himself. Since then, he has been roaming his new home territory between the main Vosges ridge and the Rhine plain as often as he can. "I always try to come home with a new trail discovery." Even after all these years, this still works surprisingly often - and is hardly surprising: The route network comprises over 20000 kilometres of marked paths and trails. "You'll see," he announces with a grin: "I know a few trails that aren't on any map."
The weather the next morning is - so-so: cloudy, a bit windy, but no rain. From Kahlen Wasen, we ride up a few tarmac hairpin bends on the pass road. And then we take it easy, over scrubby mountain pastures down to Metzeral. A wild ride. Only to crank stoically up again to the main Vosges ridge. The uphill is a real slog. "And that's after the good Pinot Noir last night," groans André. The reward: at the top, one trail after the other winds its way across the panoramic deck of the Vosges. And André says: "The view blows me away every time." We follow the side ridge from the Col d'Oberlauchen over the Petit Ballon as if in a frenzy. At the top of the Klintzkopf, we enjoy a complete panoramic view: from the Grand Ballon in the south via Rainkopf and Batteriekopf to Hohneck and Tanet in the north. Then we plunge into the descent into the Münstertal valley. The winding downhill trail is particularly exciting because it requires a good eye for the right line between all the roots and rocks. And, because there is no downhill without an uphill, there is of course another tough final climb at the end. It's a good thing that the Ferme provides plenty of energy in the evening.
On the last day, we end up at the top of the main ridge again. The previous evening, Andrea, André and Rudy had spent a lot of time poring over the map, then asked the hut owner for advice, and finally Andrea announced: "We're going to do a little experiment!" There was actually a trail that none of the three of them knew, called Sentier des Mulets. It leads through alpine terrain on the steep drop below the Hohneck. We might just have to carry the bikes. The path is fairly safe, blocked and technical. "But it can also be pretty awesome. Do you fancy it?" What a question ...
Vosges: BIKE Tour 1 - Around the Petit Ballon
- Length: 62 kilometres
- Altitude metres: 2089
- Duration: 6 hours
- Difficulty: difficult
Description:
Ragged high pastures, wild mountain forest - and countless, crisp trails uphill and downhill with the odd pushing passage. A true trail paradise unfolds around the Petit Ballon, also known as the Kleiner Belchen or Kahler Wasen. This large double loop starts at the Ferme Auberge du Kahlenwasen with an exciting descent on narrow paths to Metzeral, then leads up to the main Vosges ridge via forest tracks and a few trail sections. On the panoramic deck of the Vosges, the narrow, grippy trails wind their way along the ridge - sometimes flowing, sometimes interspersed with stones and boulders. Particularly scenic: the narrow, technical path between Langenfeldkopf and Petit Ballon, which we extended down into the Munster valley - simply irresistible, this descent! After stopping for refreshments in Munster, we head back uphill along steep trails to the Ferme Auberge at the Petit Ballon. If the tour is too long for you, simply end it after 40 kilometres at the Auberge.
Key points:
The trails are mostly at S1 to S2 level. On the ascent to the Klintzkopf (note: closed seasonally due to bird breeding), carry briefly. At the Steinmauer (1232 m), an extremely rough uphill forces you out of the saddle.
Vosges: BIKE Tour 2 - Enduro & Lac du Forlet
- Length: 33.6 kilometres
- Altitude metres: 1295
- Duration: 4 hours
- Difficulty: difficult
Description:
A real statement: over 40 per cent trail share and a similar amount of natural forest and meadow paths! The tour gets off to a brilliant start with rooty and flowing downhill fun, partly on trails that are not on any map. The ascent towards the Col du Wettstein is best done in a relaxed manner, because at the top of the ridge things really get going: the trails require a very active riding style in order to get smoothly over stones and roots. At the top of the Barrenkopf, the recently created enduro trail of the Hohrod mountain bike club awaits. A real downhill rush of five kilometres in length (with short gravel interruptions). The scenic highlight, however, is the Lac du Forlet mountain lake. A very idyllic spot that is perfect for relaxing. At the very end of the tour, there are a few wild, but above all very steep mountain paths where you have to carry your bike a few metres.
Key points:
Right from the start, the first few kilometres are technical (S2 sections). The official enduro descent to Hohrod is also a tough one: the trail is peppered with root steps, steep bends and berms, but only a few jumps. So always stay awake!
Vosges: BIKE Tour 3 - Tour des Crêtes
- Length: 50.4 kilometres
- Altitude metres: 1471
- Duration: 5.5 hours
- Difficulty: difficult
Description:
Panoramic high-altitude paths, rugged trails, gentle meadow paths - and impressive blueberry fields at the top of the ridge. In short: the typical Vosges mix. From the Auberge du Schantzwasen, you head up to the main ridge. At the top, flowing trails meander over the ridges, always in close contact with the famous Route des Crêtes mountain road. The descent from the summit of the Schweisel to Mittlach is simply flowy in the upper section, then quickly leads over forest paths in the middle section and then culminates in a fun but tough trail halfway up: grippy forest floor spiced with roots, peppered with rocks, refined with hairpin bends and garnished with scree fields! The ascent to the Gaschney ski station that immediately follows really takes its toll. But the wild, alpine Sentier des Mulets to Frankenthal really is worth every effort. Was there anything else? Oh yes, the final ascent back to the Ferme Auberge du Schantzwasen: Hang in there!
Key points:
The descent from the main ridge to Mittlach is to be enjoyed with caution in the lower section (from kilometre 29.9): The flow of the forest path is repeatedly interrupted by sections of scree and hairpin bends. If you can shift your rear wheel, you have an advantage here. The Sentier des Mulets trail also requires full concentration as it is rocky and bumpy.
MTB area info Vosges
The precinct
High pastures, rocky cliffs, lakes: the Vosges mountains on the other side of the Rhine plain are considered the twin of the Black Forest and are home to an exciting touring area with plenty of narrow trails. The decisive difference to its brother on the German side: the trails are wilder and more exciting. Although there are also local trail closures here, for example for nature conservation reasons, there is no 2-metre rule. In the High Vosges, bikers can still find an exciting mix of really challenging nature trails and wild forest tracks. The main Vosges ridge is around 40 kilometres long in total and nowhere falls below the 1100 metre mark, the hiking trail network is around 20,000 kilometres long and the highest peaks are Hohneck (1363 m) and Grand Ballon (1424 m). A big plus point of the Vosges are the many places to stop for refreshments. If your stomach is rumbling, simply head for the nearest Ferme Auberge and try regional, mostly home-made dishes.
Bike park
For lovers of banked turns, drops and jumps, the bike park at Lac Blanc awaits. Its trails are celebrated by professionals, but are only open at weekends outside the holidays (July, August). Info: www.lac-blanc.com
A natural enduro track was recently created in Hohrod, which is a highlight of the region. of our second tour forms.
Food and drink
It is not without reason that the Michelin Guide awards so many stars to no other region in France. The cuisine in the mountain inns of the Vosges, the Ferme Auberges, is down-to-earth and hearty, yet refined. Cowherds and shepherds used to share their meals with hikers in the mountain inns, but today they serve hearty meals alongside the typical Munster cheese: the typical "Malker menu" (repas marcaire) consists of vegetable soup, pies, smoked meat, roast potatoes and farmhouse cheese, for example. Served with a delicious Riesling or Pinot from the region.
Accommodation
The most rustic places to stay in the Vosges are the Fermes Auberges, which offer simple, cosy beds and excellent cuisine.
Our tips - Overnight stay in the Vosges:
Ferme-Auberge du Kahlenwasen in Luttenbach-près-Munster on the Petit Ballon. Old mountain inn at an altitude of 1200 metres. The wood-panelled restaurant exudes the charm of the 1920s. The Alsatian dishes - like the home-made Munster cheese - are delicious and the prices are affordable. The rooms are simple and charming. Toilets and showers in the corridor. Half board per person from 49 euros. Info about www.facebook.com/Kahlenwasen and Tel. 0033/389/773249
Auberge du Schantzwasen in Stosswihr in the heart of the Vosges: freshly renovated with lots of old wood in a neo-rustic chalet style. Cosy rooms, good restaurant with local dishes. The menu includes delicious Munster quiche or meat schnaka (pasta dough with minced meat). Half board per person from 67 euros, tel: 0033 389773011, www.auberge-schantzwasen.com
Guided tours
The guides from Beitune may be based in the Kaiserstuhl in the Black Forest, but they know every trail in the Vosges. The offer ranges from guided weekend tours and trail camps to multi-day Vosges crosses with local colleagues. Info on beitune.de
General information
Tourist Information Alsace, Vallée de Munster: www.vallee-munster.eu
