Check wear on MTB chains

BIKE Magazin

 · 13.03.2020

Check wear on MTB chainsPhoto: Georg Grieshaber
Check wear on MTB chains

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Check your chain regularly for wear. This will save you money. This is because the worn chain attacks the other drive components. This is quite expensive, especially with the top groupsets.

Poor switching function despite correct Setting? Why don't you check your chain for wear? But don't wait too long! If you also have to replace the cassette and, in the worst case, the chainrings, it will be really expensive - especially with the top XTR and XX1 groupsets.

Check chain wear

The easiest way to check the wear of the chain is with a special measuring gauge. Such a part Every biker should really have one! They are available from numerous manufacturers and all work in a similar way. Place the chain wear gauge on the chain. The deeper the test pin plunges into the chain link, the more worn the chain is. If the test pin falls in completely without resistance, it is time to replace the old chain. If the wear gauge does not slip completely into the link (as shown in the picture), you can continue to ride the chain.

Heavily used drivetrains can often no longer be adjusted correctly due to worn chains and sprockets. It is therefore essential to check wear parts such as the chain, cassette and shift cables beforehand!Photo: Wolfgang WatzkeHeavily used drivetrains can often no longer be adjusted correctly due to worn chains and sprockets. It is therefore essential to check wear parts such as the chain, cassette and shift cables beforehand!

Most gauges like the one in the picture even have at least two test pins that are at different distances from each other. If one of the pins (corresponding to 0.075 mm wear per chain link) falls through the chain, the chain is so elongated that many manufacturers recommend replacing it to prevent wear on cassettes with aluminium or titanium sprockets.

Steel sprockets are harder and can also withstand longer chains before their teeth are also affected. However, if the other side of the gauge also hits the chain (0.1 mm wear per chain link), the chain should be replaced with a new one.

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You can roughly determine the wear of the chain even without tools: Grip the chain at a joint and try to lift the chain off the large chainring. If there is a gap of more than 2 millimetres, the chain should be replaced. In the photo below, the chain is still in good condition.

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There is always a little play. This chain is still OK. If the gap is greater than 2 millimetres, we recommend replacing it.Photo: Robert NiedringThere is always a little play. This chain is still OK. If the gap is greater than 2 millimetres, we recommend replacing it.

Check cassette wear

It is best to check the condition of the cassette after changing the chain. If the chain jumps as soon as you pedal with maximum force, the respective sprocket is worn.

The wear of the cassette can be checked with the tool Rohloff HG-Check check. However, the device requires some experience and recommends changing the chain too early. If you change the chain regularly, a cassette can last for around five to eight chain changes.

Some cassettes can be replaced in parts. This is because the smallest sprockets are the quickest to wear out. Otherwise, a new cassette is due. The steel cassettes of Sram's top groupsets, which are milled from a single piece, are very expensive.

Indicates cassette wear: <a href="https://www.awin1.com/cread.php?awinmid=11768&awinaffid=471469&clickref=B+Rohloff+HG-Check&ued=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rosebikes.de%2Frohloff-hgig-check-ritzelverschleisslehre-23042" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Rohloff HG-Check</a> *.Photo: Georg GrieshaberIndicates cassette wear: Rohloff HG-Check *.

Check chainring wear

The condition of the chainrings can also be checked with the new chain. If the rollers of the chain fall cleanly between the individual chainring teeth, everything is in the green zone. If this is not the case, and there is a hitch when fitting the chain, there is no way around replacing the chainrings.

This favours wear on the drive

Skew chain

Neither small-small nor large-large! This applies to gears with two or three chainrings. The chain should always run as straight as possible to minimise friction between the chain links. The smallest inner chainring should therefore only be combined with the larger sprockets close to the spokes.

Switching under load

To be able to ride your chain for as long as possible, you should shift gears with feeling. Reduce the pressure on the pedal just before you press the gear lever and continue cranking without load. The chain can then engage cleanly with the sprocket climbing aids and change gear reliably. Caution: Shifting under high pedal pressure can even lead directly to chain breakage.

Wait for maintenance

Especially on mountain bikes, the chain is constantly suffering from the abrasive effect of the elements. Dust, sand and water as well as their combination (mud) rub and grind between the chain links and the teeth of the sprockets and chainrings. You should therefore regularly remove dirt from your chain and treat it to a few drops of water Chain lubricant.

MTB drivetrain maintenance intervals

We recommend spraying the bike down roughly with a water hose after each use. This prevents dirt from the trail from sticking to the drive unit in the first place. Avoid the hard jet from high-pressure cleaners! It transports dirt and moisture to places where it has no business being: behind the bearing seals and into the fine gaps between the chain links.

Clean chain, clean function! <a href="service/schrauber_tipps/workshop-ketten-wecheln-am-mountainbike/a34539.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">How to clean and maintain your MTB chain is shown here (click). </a>Photo: Georg GrieshaberClean chain, clean function! How to clean and maintain your MTB chain is shown here (click).

Once the roughest part is done, rub the chain dry with a cloth. Then apply a few drops of oil and the chain will run silently and without much resistance. You should check your drive for signs of wear every six months and take action if necessary.

The top groups in the big BIKE closure test

The Sram XX1 Eagle with 12 gears came onto the market with the world's narrowest chain to date. But how long does the 1x12 drivetrain last compared to the 11-speed competition? We put the top Sram XX1 Eagle groupset to the test and compared it with the eleven-speed XX1 and the Shimano XTR (11-speed) in a wear test.
Find out more here...

12 gears and a long life? The Sram XX1 Eagle against the in-house 1x11 competition and the 11-speed Shimano XTR. <a href="components/chains/wear-test-drivetrain-1x12-versus-1x11-sram-versus-shimano/a43249.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">In the big BIKE wear test - download now!</a>Photo: Robert Kühnen12 gears and a long life? The Sram XX1 Eagle against the in-house 1x11 competition and the 11-speed Shimano XTR. In the big BIKE wear test - download now!

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