Adjusting the Shimano derailleur: Instructions for rear derailleur and front derailleur

Rattling chains and jumping gears don't have to be a problem. For those in a hurry, we show you how to perfectly adjust your Shimano MTB gears in a simple and competent video. The principle is the same, regardless of whether you have a triple, double or modern single-speed drivetrain. That's why we're using an older text (and its images) here. You can find instructions for current gear shifters here:

>> Instructions: Adjusting the Shimano 1x12 gearstick <<

>> Instructions: Adjusting the Sram 1x12 drivetrain <<

Setting the Shimano front derailleur in 6 steps

The chain only climbs quickly and smoothly from one chainring to the next if the derailleur is precisely adjusted. Only a few steps are required for perfect adjustment.

Step 1: Check the guide plate

Before you adjust the front derailleur, you should check whether the outer guide plate of the front derailleur is parallel to the large chainring.

Step 2: Measure the distance between the guide plate and the chainring

The distance between the lower edge of the outer guide plate and the teeth of the large chainring should be 1-3 millimetres (too large in the picture).

Step 3: Customise mode converter

The so-called mode selector is located on the underside of current Shimano shifters. Depending on the type of crank, it should be set to 2x or 3x.

Step 4: Setting the lower limit

To set the lower limit, shift to the small chainring and largest sprocket. Then use the L-screw to adjust the inner guide plate so that it just does not touch the chain.

Step 5: Setting the upper limit

Shift to the large chainring and smallest sprocket. Now adjust the outer limit of the derailleur with the H-screw. The chain should be at a minimum distance from the outer guide plate.

Step 6: Setting the tension

Finally, adjust the tension on the corresponding screw on the gear lever. To do this, turn the tension screw so far that the chain just does not touch the outer guide plate.

Front derailleur standards from Shimano

Simply buying a new front derailleur is no longer an option. There are 18 different versions of Shimano's long-running XT alone. You need to be aware of this:

Top Swing/Low Clamp

This variant is clamped just above the bottom bracket and also requires a classic round seat tube. Shimano spacers compensate for the diameter.

Down Swing/High Clamp

This version is suitable for mounting on round seat tubes. With Shimano, different tube diameters are compensated for by the enclosed spacers.

E-Type

The E-Type front derailleur is screwed onto the bottom bracket via a mounting plate. This eliminates the need for a spacer ring on the mounting side. Particularly suitable for unusual frame shapes, but only for BSA bearings.

Direct Mount Low/Top Swing

This Shimano front derailleur is mounted directly on the frame without a clamp. The front derailleurs are adapted to different chainring ratios (36, 38, 39, 42 teeth).

Direct Mount High/Down Swing

This front derailleur variant is mounted on the frame without a clamp, but the derailleur cage swivels downwards. The clamp has a small adjustment range. However, pay attention to the capacity of the large sprocket when purchasing.

Adjusting the Shimano gears

If the chain is reluctant to jump from one sprocket to the next or the chain is constantly rattling during your ride, it's time to correctly adjust the Shimano gears on your mountain bike. We will show you how to get the optimum function out of your Shimano gears in just a few steps.