Riding technique for bike arenas: How to safely master all obstacles in the bike park
Thomas Weschta
· 05.10.2022
The trinity of the Bike parks are berms, drops and the perfect line choice for the more or less demanding route in between. 170 millimetres of travel can still forgive a few mistakes, but in really rough terrain, the bike handling has to be spot on. René Schmidt, our riding technique expert, therefore explains what you need to bear in mind when pushing the knobbly tyres out of the godel - or actually pedalling up to the trail entrance.
Schmidt, a jack-of-all-trades with a perfectionist disposition for technology, not only advises the German national cross-country team on riding technique. With his company René Schmidt Suspension Service, the 38-year-old maintains, repairs and optimises mountain bike suspensions. René has over ten years of experience as a downhill pro. The likeable Thuringian not only knows what he is talking about, but can also explain riding technique tricks in a way that is easy to understand.
These riding technique tips for the bike park from the experts:
The choice of line
On a natural route, you are often faced with the question of how best to complete individual sections. There is no one-size-fits-all solution. Here are the most important principles to help you choose the right line.
Macro line
If you imagine the route from above and trace the ideal line with a pencil, everything seems clear. The reality usually looks different.
Take a close look at the big picture and the individual details and put the two together. In this example, there are two tracks - inside and outside. The classic, outer line has a few roots, a small step and a berm at the exit of the bend. If you accept these obstacles, you can maintain a clean radius here and roll around with full momentum. The inner track is free of obstacles, so it seems to be a plausible alternative. However, if you want to catch them, you have to brake and turn sharply right from the start. This costs you speed at first. On the other hand, you can then steer straight towards the berm at the end of the bend. The problem with this is that you have to decelerate again to be able to turn the corner sharply.
It is clear that the shortest and easiest route is not always the best. Correct alignment at the end of the bend is important for a fast and safe continuation of the journey.
Micro line
For a fast and safe descent, you are always looking for maximum ground contact and therefore grip.
The small step on the outer line is not easy to see from the driver's perspective. Most people are put off by this and simply roll off. However, a closer look reveals this: You can see the Use a tree for help. On the one hand as a support - it certainly won't fall over. Secondly, it collects all the soil behind it that has been braked away from the centre. The step here is only half as high, which means more ground contact, less vibrations on the handlebars and higher cornering speed! It is also easy to see how the body is already aligned with the course of the macro line. If you are in favour of the Apparently simple line If you decide to take the bend in the middle of the step, you will also hit the next bend at a sharp angle, have to brake and lose momentum. Small advantage: This variant can be ridden safely in all weather conditions.
TIP for damp conditions
Longitudinal roots are particularly critical in damp conditions. Try to avoid them as much as possible. But roots are not always your enemy. They can also help you and provide the necessary lateral support in bends.
The neighbour
If you ride in the bike park, you can't avoid berms. René reveals the safest way to master the man-made bends and save valuable time.
If you brake at high speed and with locked wheels deep into the bend, you may feel fast, but you're not. Top priority: Choose the right initial speed. When coming into a berm, the best thing to do is to correct your speed with the rear brake. It's worth investing a little at the start of the bend. Look for a high line, preferably above the main track (image 1). Point your head and body in the direction of the bend with your arms and legs slightly bent in order to aim for the exit of the bend.
If you see this, you can release the brakes after passing the apex and drop slightly into the dip (Fig. 2). Scan the rest of the route and do not let yourself be distracted by neighbouring trees, stones or other obstacles. This is purely about continuing your journey. In this case, there is a small bump at the transition to the straight. Use this with an extra push to pick up even more speed for the track. Then return to the starting position. The pedal position remains horizontal during the turn.
Tip for the optimum line in the berm
By taking the highest possible line at the entrance to the bend, you avoid annoying braking bumps, which not only cost you grip but also power. The main line is not always the better choice!
The drop
It takes a bit of effort to plunge down a drop.
The deeper the landing, the greater the thrill. René shows you how to do it properly.
As with the neighbouring choose your speed on the approach and roll the last few metres to the edge without braking. Set your eyes on the edge. Be determined and relaxed. The crank position is horizontal, which brings calm to the approach; legs and arms are slightly bent. As soon as the front wheel rolls over the edge, stretch your arms and legs dynamically and move your centre of gravity slightly backwards. This prevents the front from dropping and you initiate a controlled flight phase.
Now comes the airtimeBoth wheels should be sailing at almost the same height, the body is in a central position on the bike. You are already aiming to land. For the landing, extend your arms and legs like a landing gear. This allows them to optimally absorb the impact energy. Ideally, you should land with both wheels at the same time so that you are immediately ready for any upcoming steering or braking manoeuvres. Rear or particularly front-heavy landings can lead to problems, especially with higher drops. It's best to start small. The good thing about drops: the technique always remains the same, regardless of whether it's a 1-metre or 5-metre drop. But it has to be right and timed correctly.
Tip for learning the drop more easily:
Find a good drop to learn. This means: a maximum of 0.5 metres with a long, wide landing with a slight incline. The approach should be long and free of obstacles so that you can concentrate on the drop alone. Before you start, go to the edge and take a close look at the jump and landing. This gives you confidence. The saddle is fully lowered.
