Laboratory test: In order to test the braking force and stability of the brakes in a standardised manner, we go to great lengths in the test laboratory: after braking in on our test stand, we test the braking force. To do this, the wheel is accelerated to 45 km/h on a drum before the brake is applied several times in dry and wet conditions with 80 newtons of manual force. We test the stability by simulating several full braking manoeuvres on the test bench over a short period of time. In doing so, we check whether the ratio of leverage force and temperatures remains constant.
You can find the test results of these products and lots of interesting facts about brakes in general in the PDF - see download area below:
- Hope Tech 3 E4
- Magura MT5
- Magura MT7 HC3
- Shimano Saint
- Sram Code RSC
- Sram Guide RSC Ultimate
- TRP Quadiem G-Spec
- Trickstuff Direttissima
5 things you should know about brakes
1. brake discs: bigger is better!
For gravity bikers who frequently ride fast and on steeper terrain, 200-millimetre discs are always worthwhile. Also at the rear. This increases stability and braking power.
2nd problem: Air in the system
If the pressure point becomes soft, this is usually due to air in the brake. Other indications of this are pressure point wandering or spongy response behaviour. The solution: Bleeding.
3. transport
When transporting or mounting the bike, it is best not to turn it upside down. Unless you attach rubbers to the brake lever so that they remain pulled. This is the only way to keep the system closed and prevent air from entering. You should also make sure that the brake levers are not pulled when the wheels are dismantled.
4. brake pads
Many bikers ride their brake pads down to the metal of the pad carrier We can only advise against this. Because when metal rubs against metal, not only is the brake disc damaged, but the pistons can also move too far out of the caliper and break. In extreme cases, the entire brake system is ruined.
5. braking
Correct braking is often underestimated. But it prolongs durability and increases braking performance. Here's how to do it properly: Brake continuously from a speed of approx. 30 km/h to a standstill about 30 times. This allows the pads and disc to adapt well to each other.
What to do if the brakes squeal?
When disc brakes became established on mountain bikes at the end of the 1990s, everyone was delighted with the unprecedented bite of the brakes. However, squealing noises are still cursed to this day. There can be various reasons for this: glazed pads, bent brake discs or poorly aligned brake callipers and pistons. Small tricks can help to eliminate squealing noises. Our colleagues at BIKE have some practical tips on their homepage: bike-magazin.de WEBCODE #21819
Organic or sintered coverings?
There are two types of pads with different properties for disc brakes: organic pads and sintered pads. Organic pads wear faster, but tend to squeal less. Sintered pads are baked from metal or ceramic in powder form under high pressure and temperature. They wear more slowly, but become hotter and tend to squeal loudly. Most manufacturers recommend organic pads. You can find a complete brake pad test under this link: bike-magazin.de WEBCODE: #37195
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Dimitri Lehner
Editor
