Cycling in winter: The most important tips for biking in cold and wet conditions

The last few winters have been long and cold and wet. Why ride a bike even then? The most important of many reasons: because it can be fun if you do it right. Of course, you'll also save money if you leave your car parked or don't use the underground, and you'll also save time during winter traffic jams. And you are guaranteed to live a healthier life: just two five-kilometre rides to work every day or a short exercise session every third day are guaranteed to boost your immune system better than any celebrity-recommended wellness yoghurt.

But if you prepare yourself and your bike well for bad weather, you will soon prefer travelling by bike to by car or public transport anyway. The good feeling of waking up in the cold air in the morning and the knowledge that you've been moving and feeling fit despite the cold in the evening - even if it's gloomy outside again - speak in favour of this. And there's also something about calmly passing caravans of cars stopped by snow ...

Adjusting to cycling in winter

A simple but extremely useful device for winter drivers: the outside thermometer on the window of the cosy living room. But you have to be able to interpret it, because it doesn't only become critical from zero degrees: if the thermometer outside the window shows an outside temperature of around four degrees Celsius, it can already be slippery in some places on the journey to work - on bridges, for example. We need to be prepared for this. But it's not just mentally that we have to adjust to the temperatures, more wetness from above and below and slower riding; our e-bike or bicycle should also be adapted to the changes.

Very important: Winter bikes need mudguards. Without them, even drizzle over short distances will result in wet bums and backs, feet and legs. Both mudguards should reach well below the height of the wheel axles so that you stay dry from below. If you have an adjustable stem on your bike, you can raise it slightly for the winter months: A relaxed riding position contributes to a relaxed riding style and better bike control in tricky situations.

If you feel unsafe in bad weather or on slippery roads, you can also lower the saddle slightly so that you have firm ground under your feet more quickly and can quickly find grip not just with the tip of your foot, but with the whole sole of your foot. Speaking of feet: light hiking boots or cycling shoes with non-slip soles are a good idea for cold days - after all, you want to have good grip on the ground and on the pedals. In this article, we have given the subject of tyres a own section dedicated.

Pedals for the winter?

The classic platform pedals are comfortable and usually slip-resistant even in the rain. However, snow or mud under your shoes can turn the plastic or rubber surface into a slippery slope. Bear paw pedals or platform pedals with pins (similar to spikes in tyres) can help here. System pedals are absolutely "non-slip": they work like ski bindings. The counterpart to the "binding" on the pedals is the cleat in the sole of the prepared cycling shoe. With a click, you clip into the pedal and with a twist of the heel to the side, you are free again. Guaranteed.

However, you should only use this type of pedal if you have already got used to them before the winter - for example, if you are an MTB rider who uses clipless pedals anyway. Without a period of familiarisation, the changeover is tricky and you run the risk of forgetting that you have to turn your foot to get off the pedal in tricky situations. And of course, as with skiing, you also need special shoes. However, there is now a huge selection of models that also look like everyday shoes. System pedals and shoes with the Shimano SPD system have proven to be a good solution and are very easy to use.

Cycling in winter: the basics

In difficult weather and poor visibility, one thing counts first: ride with more foresight than usual! Is there a pile of leaves on the already dirty cycle path ahead? It's better to slow down. Is there mud in the bend at the next junction? Brake early, because the muddy section can be very slippery. If a vehicle is travelling in front of you, keep a much greater distance than in dry summer weather - you will notice it later when the brakes are applied and it is difficult to slow down on slippery terrain.

Speaking of dusk: Of course, good lighting is absolutely essential in winter. E-bikes almost always have battery-powered lights on board anyway, but thanks to LED lighting, there are now also front lights for hub dynamos that illuminate the road like a good car headlight. If you want to retrofit as easily as possible, you can also find plug-in lights with a built-in rechargeable battery, USB charging and a high safety factor. The most important thing here is not the absolute lux or lumen count of the lights, but the homogeneity and width of the light cone.

The rear light has also changed: Both fixed and plug-in rear lights are now available with brake lights, which have been legal for some time. An absolute safety plus in the dark season! Important: With plug-in lights, make sure that the light is clearly visible from the side in its respective position on the bike. For example, if you attach your rear light to the left rear stay at tyre height, you cannot expect the light to be visible from the right. At dusk, you must expect to see unlit vehicles late and to be seen late yourself.

Bicycle tyres: spikes yes or no?

Several manufacturers offer tyres with studs for winter, i.e. small metal heads in the tread. Up to 402 of these grip guarantees then ensure a tyre buzz on asphalt that even thickly studded MTBs have to hide from. If you live in a region with lots of snow and ice and want to ride your bike all year round, these tyres are the perfect choice: when even cars can't get any further on black ice, you can roll past them easily and safely. It really is an experience you should treat yourself to. One of the biggest problems in real winter weather is freezing rain, fresh snow and packed, hard-packed snow - and that's where studded tyres come in.

Disadvantages: These tyres are heavier than normal tyres. This means: Stop and go and accelerating is a little more strenuous, and even once you have reached cruising speed, it is a little harder to keep up due to the higher rolling resistance of the tread. It remains to be weighed up: Is my cycling area so winter-heavy that it's worth putting on tyres with these spikes in December, or will I probably be annoyed at the end of March next year because I had to pedal with more power for four months without the tyres ever being able to show their winter prowess?

By the way: If you make this decision in favour of an e-bike, you can largely disregard the additional power required: The motor takes the extra power from him or her - perhaps in exchange for a small loss of range ... Attention: Spike tyres are usually wider. Pay attention to the clearances in the rear triangle and fork here too!

Big things for the winter

The point of contact with the road is even more important in autumn and winter than usual. In principle, the rubber compound is decisive for grip on asphalt, which is why treadless tyres can offer just as much grip in wet conditions as coarsely profiled tyres. But mud makes all the difference: dirt, leaves and mud on the road create difficult conditions, and tyres with a slight tread pattern have an advantage. More tyre tread width also ensures greater (skid) safety. If you drive a lot, it is worth having a coarser and, if possible, slightly wider tyre fitted for the winter.

But be careful: Will the desired tyre fit in the fork and rear triangle and under the mudguards? If in doubt, have the dealer check! Alternative: Ride with slightly lower tyre pressure in winter. This also increases the contact area of the tyres, they have more contact with the road and therefore more grip. But there is also something to bear in mind here: If you don't ride with tubeless tyres, you risk punctures that can slash the inner tube (snakebite) if the tyre pressure is too low. The correct pressure depends on the rider's weight and the tyre size. The minimum and maximum pressures are stamped on the tyre sidewalls. And here too, the dealer knows best how to play it safe in a specific case.

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Cycling in winter: Difficult terrain

Cobblestones are not a cyclist's favourite anyway. In the rain or mud, this aversion increases even more, as the bumpy surface is then particularly difficult to control. This applies not only to braking, but also to changing direction and lean angles - which should be much less than usual. The same applies to crossing tram tracks. The narrower the tyre you are riding on, the more likely it is to slip on the smooth metal or get caught in the track. Always cross rails at as right an angle as possible so that the front wheel cannot get caught. The general rule in winter is: ride more defensively than usual!

The masterclass: Snow

A very clear case: in the white splendour, you can't do anything with treadless tyres. The coarser the tread, the better you can cope in the snow. Of course, the following applies: drive more slowly, especially when cornering. Leaning is a thing of the past; on snow, it quickly leads to a crash. MTB tyres or the small gravel studs have great advantages here compared to classic touring tyres. Either way: Avoid abrupt steering movements! Otherwise the bike will initially continue to push in the same direction, but the front wheel will then suddenly slip away at some point. On snow, it is definitely worth lowering the saddle as already mentioned, as your feet will be on the ground quickly if necessary.

Once you've got used to this special riding style, you can really have fun and let loose on roads with little traffic. For example, you can powerslide the bike in one direction or another by braking the rear wheel. The step from snow to ice is not a big one: especially on small roads in residential neighbourhoods, where snow clearing vehicles are rarely seen, things can get dicey: cars drive over the snow. This results in very hard, hardened surfaces and ultimately ice; to make matters worse, this creates deep, often narrow ruts that give bikers too little opportunity to balance.

In temporary thawing weather, for example when the sun is shining in the afternoon, ice slabs also form. The only thing that helps here is pushing - unless you are travelling with a Spike tyres. In principle, roads cleared of snow are of course preferable to those that are not, unless you are perfectly equipped for the white dream. The latter also quickly turn into muddy motorways at temperatures just above zero or when salt is used, and overtaking cars turn into terrible mud-slingers - all the more reason to wear robust, waterproof clothing in winter!

E-biking in winter? But yes!

If you pay attention to a few points, there is nothing to stop you from travelling with support in winter.

• Pay particular attention to the battery charge. Cold puts more strain on the battery. You can expect a 10 to 35 per cent reduction in range.
• If you have a removable battery: If possible, always charge the battery at room temperature and only take it out into the cold when you actually set off.
• Neoprene battery covers are useful in cold temperatures and wet conditions.
• Ride with low assistance for the first few minutes until the battery has "got used" to the power demand at low temperatures.
• If possible, park your e-bike away from rain and snow.
• If the battery is on the outside, you should clean the contacts of the battery and battery holder regularly.
• Get used to winter road conditions first: Be careful with the power of your e-bike - dirty or wet roads can cause the rear wheel to lose grip more quickly. Ride at a low or medium support level.

Cycling in winter: No obligation to use cycle paths that are impassable

The tiresome topic of "cycle paths in winter": they are rarely free of leaves, which sometimes also cover dangerous potholes and crossing root hills. Snow? Cycle paths are often not cleared at all or only much later than roads. This means that they are often difficult or impossible to cycle on and pose a risk of falling. In this case, you can cycle on the cleared road. Whether this is a benefit, especially on busy roads, is something you have to judge for yourself. It is also quite dangerous, especially in bad weather and in dim light.

In addition, motorists often have no sympathy for a cyclist who takes up "their" space on the road on a winter's day, when piles of snow may even protrude far into the carriageway. Most motorists are unlikely to realise that the cycle path is barely passable. Even if an overtaking distance of 1.50 metres is prescribed in urban areas: Unfortunately, you can expect that many drivers will not adhere to this and that close overtaking manoeuvres will occur. It is always important to drive confidently but defensively. Do not push yourself to the edge of the carriageway, where it is dangerous for single-lane vehicles due to partly refrozen snow that has been pushed aside.

Is there a perfect winter brake?

Above all, the brakes must be easy to modulate and offer maximum safety on slippery surfaces. Today, this is best achieved by hydraulically actuated disc brakes, which are fitted to almost every e-bike and most current bicycles anyway. Their advantages: In contrast to rim brakes of any kind, they provide powerful, finely adjustable deceleration even in wet conditions and are hardly affected by mud and rain.

The rim brake, on the other hand, is often very fickle in the wet. In addition, the Bowden cable - when operated mechanically - quickly becomes rusty, especially in the cold months, which makes it sluggish and more sensitive. The optimum solution in winter is the disc brake with anti-lock braking system (ABS), which unfortunately is currently only fitted by a few manufacturers. This allows you to brake on slippery roads without locking the tyres - which without ABS requires a lot of braking power and a braking system that is very easy to control.

Brakes? ABS to go!

Speaking of braking: this should now happen as gently as possible - and therefore earlier - than on a dry road surface. And especially with the rear brake on slippery surfaces. If the bike locks up at the front, the wheel can slip very quickly. A locked rear wheel (by default the brake lever on the right-hand side of the handlebars) is easier to control. If you notice that the rear wheel stops, let go of the brake lever immediately and then decelerate again, if possible with a softer brake. A stutter brake, i.e. repeatedly applying and releasing the brake, is also helpful. This is also the concept of ABS - the anti-lock braking system in cars or in some newer e-bikes does nothing else. Here, a sensor recognises when the wheel is locked, briefly opens the brake system, then applies it again - and the whole thing is repeated as long as we pull the brake lever.

Cycling in winter: More winter weather, more care

For commuters in particular, it is advisable to pay special attention to component care in winter:

• The chain should be treated at least once a week in bad weather or with salt on the road: spray a soft cloth with grease remover and rub the chain thoroughly clean. Then carefully re-oil.
• Similarly, clean the sprockets and (for derailleur gears) the chain rollers (a screwdriver and a toothbrush will help here).
• Occasionally check the Bowden cables of the gears and brakes for kinks if they are exposed on the bike and grease older cables. If there are any breaks in the sheathing, replace the cables (or have them replaced).
• If you spread salt on your bike: wipe metal parts (especially aluminium rims and suspension fork bars!) with warm soapy water every week.
• Belt drive? Then the same applies to the belt and the pulleys while you're at it. They won't be damaged by salt water, but they will run more smoothly if they are clean.