Stefan Frey
· 01.11.2025
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Record winters like the one in 1962/63 are long gone. Back then, the average winter temperature was an icy minus 5.48 degrees Celsius. But thanks to climate change and global warming, we haven't had a winter with average temperatures below zero for twelve years. What is increasingly frustrating winter sports enthusiasts, because the snow cover in the mountains is becoming thinner and thinner or even more artificial, plays into the hands of us bikers.
Many trails in this country are now snow-free almost all year round, and bike parks often remain open until well into autumn. On some days, the winter sun even raises the mercury well above ten degrees, giving us a much-needed vitamin D shower. Despite rising temperatures, the winter days remain short. Shady spots don't shed their hoar frost throughout the day and precipitation also increases on average. So for the time being, biking fun in winter remains a question of the right equipment, which you can find on the following pages. We have tested the latest winter shoes and gloves and provide tips on choosing the right clothing. We also shed some light on the dark trails with our lamp buying guide. So there really are no more excuses, even if, against all expectations, the temperature does drop below freezing.
Between autumn and spring, they are the insurance for warm and dry toes. A comparison of six weatherproof pairs of shoes for clipless and flat pedals. For the sake of clarity, we will only provide a brief summary of the respective models in this article. The detailed test with all the important facts and practical impressions can be found in a separate article. Simply follow the link.
The 45Nrth Ragnarök is massive, heavy and as robust as a Viking shield. The two straps of the Boa fastener put a lot of traction on your feet and the sole is very stiff, allowing you to pedal swiftly through the winter landscape. The wide profile provides grip and a secure stance on the pedals and off-road. However, the 45Nrth MTB winter shoes aren't the ultimate in warmth, and water penetrates the seams in heavy rain. Thanks to the robust construction, the shoe hardly flexes when pedalling or running - it is therefore not a comfort miracle.
Warm, grippy, waterproof - with the G.Ice-Storm, Gaerne delivers absolutely recommendable MTB winter shoes made in Italy. The upper material is supple and flexible and can be ideally adjusted to the foot using the Boa dial and Velcro, ensuring a high level of riding comfort. Thanks to the wide-opening entry, you can slip smoothly into the shoe. The Vibram sole combines good power transmission with high grip when walking. So everything is perfect? Almost: the shaft could be a little higher. In addition, the very narrow fit is unlikely to suit all feet.
With the Blaze, Giro is completely rethinking winter shoes and combining a "normal" race shoe with a kind of waterproof cover. Primaloft lining and an insulated insole provide the necessary warmth. The wearing comfort is phenomenal for a winter shoe. The outer skin reliably blocks out dirt and water - but the Giro does leak in constant rain. Unfortunately, the power transmission under the very flexible upper material is poor, and the tread with little grip is annoying when walking.
Similar to the Giro, the Shimano is also based on a classic race shoe. Weather protection is provided by a large Velcro cover, which also makes getting into the shoe much easier. As is typical for Shimano, the fit is very successful and comfortable. The MW7 MTB winter shoes transfer power well to the pedals and offer a lot of flex when pedalling despite the high neoprene shaft - top training partners for cold and wet weather, especially as they reliably repel rain. Only one seam intersection did not remain permanently sealed. The sole is narrow and tippy and not made for running.
Among the numerous winter shoes from the Italians, the Multicross is finally a flat pedal model. The fit, workmanship and construction are outstanding. The high neoprene shaft is absolutely waterproof and the Vibram sole provides plenty of power and grip on the pedals. Two eyelets help you get into the narrow upper, but the twist lock is fiddly - especially with thick gloves. This penalises the handling. The treadless sole of the MTB winter shoes offers little grip on slippery roots or rocks.
Reinforced all round and made with Cordura fabric, the Vaude is also suitable for rough terrain. Thanks to the waffle structure, the tread of the MTB winter shoes also grips well on the ground. However, the grip on the pedals is only mediocre, as is the power transmission. Warmly lined with Primaloft and equipped with a Sympatex membrane, they effortlessly defy wind and weather - water only penetrated the toes in very heavy rain. The fit is quite wide and the shoe cannot be optimally adjusted due to the stubborn material. Trying them on beforehand is a must!
We tested five pairs of gloves that not only keep you warm and dry, but also allow you to operate your smartphone and GPS devices.
There is now a large selection of touchscreen-compatible long-fingered gloves. Our test candidates cost between €40 and €80. Most models are based on the layered principle of lining, vapour-permeable membrane and water-repellent outer skin to protect the hands from wind and rain. There are big differences in the touch function. Not all of the specially equipped fingertips cope equally well with all display surfaces.
Overall grade (100%): 1.4
Fits normal to narrow, for slim and long fingers, nice long cuff; Roubaix lining warms well, top weather protection; typing and swiping worked very well, scrolling sometimes took two attempts.
Overall score (100%): 1.2 (Tip: Price/performance)
Best price-performance ratio; normal fit, short, slightly tight waistband; very good weather protection; reliable touch function thanks to well-conducting thumb and index fingertips; many features including terrycloth thumb.
Overall score (100%): 1.1 (test winner)
Fits normal to large; robust structure, well-padded palm; adjustable waist; very good touch properties with three fingers on the left and right; top weather protection; most expensive model in the test.
Overall grade (100%): 1.6
Fits normally; relatively stiff due to the flat palm padding; very good weather protection; typing and scrolling worked great, swiping less well due to the somewhat stiff touch surfaces.
Freezing, sweating, freezing - finding the right clothing in winter is a challenge and in some cases, less is actually more. We show you the different types of jackets and trousers and which gear is best for whom.
If you only enjoy the winter landscape and crystal-clear air on a low flame, you will cool down more quickly. Insulation jackets are therefore ideal as an outer layer on relaxed tours. Primaloft or Polartec Alpha fibres reliably keep the warmth close to the body, while the outer layer blocks the cold wind - but more sweat collects on the inside. Lined softshell fabrics are generally more robust and slightly more vapour permeable. For longer climbs, we recommend ventilation options under the arms or via pockets on the side. A hood keeps your head warm when resting at the summit. Ideally, at least the lower back should be water-repellent and overlap with the trousers. The thighs can also be filled with synthetic fibres. However, a full lining quickly becomes too warm, partly because the wider fit means that the air alone acts as an insulator. It is more important to have a waterproof lining on the seat that repels mud. The calves and thighs should also have a water-repellent finish. Robust softshell has proven to be a better material than the lighter Primaloft or Polartec.
Sweat can only be transported away from the body if the individual layers are close together. Racers therefore have no use for baggy clothes with a thick lining during winter training, especially as the working muscles themselves are already really heating up. Classic softshell is therefore the perfect choice for a jacket, as it allows sweat to evaporate easily. If you get cold more easily, opt for a model with waffle fleece on the inside. Tight-fitting cuffs and a high-necked collar prevent draughts and therefore chilling on fast descents. It is pleasant if the lower back is splash-proof and the back of the arms or the flanks are sewn from breathable fabric. Softshell is also the ideal choice for the legs. A good pair of winter trousers should be windproof at least from the thighs to above the knees, otherwise they will quickly become windy. Water-repellent trimmings on the calves and buttocks are ideal. If the material soaks up the cold water from the ground, the fun will soon be over. A warm terry towelling trim on the lower back will prevent any pulling and tension. Short rain trousers are the perfect addition for those really bad days.
The extremities suffer most from the cold. It is particularly important to protect them in winter. Proven and well thought-out for underneath.
You lose a large part of your body heat through your head - a myth that persists. Nevertheless, you shouldn't get on your bike in winter without a cap. The windproof Cycling Cap from GripGrab fits perfectly under your helmet. On particularly cold days, ear and neck warmers can also be folded out. Price 45 Euro >> at Available on Amazon.
A good base layer is the best foundation for cycling in winter. It should be close-fitting to be able to wick away sweat and at the same time protect the body from cooling down. The Austrian eco-label achieves both with a combination of warming merino and stretchy Tencel fibres - sustainably certified and produced in Europe. Price: 99,90 Euro >> available at Bergzeit.
The double-layer principle in socks is more familiar to hikers and is actually intended to prevent blisters. On the bike, however, the two-layer, calf-high construction provides plenty of warmth. The toe area is additionally padded with towelling, fluffy and super comfortable. Sizes 37.5-49; Price 29,95 Euro >> available at Bergzeit.
The big chill usually starts at the feet. Because the toes only move a little in bike shoes, little blood circulates here and the temperature plummets. The Sunbed Fire insole, with its hollow fibres made of felt material, heats things up. A total of five layers ensure a particularly high insulating effect.sizes 23/24-47/48; Price 24,60 Euro >> available at Amazon at a reduced price.
Scarf, hat, headband, balaclava - there is hardly any item of clothing that provides more versatile warmth than a tube scarf. That's why the Buff scarf is the evergreen in our winter clothing hit list. The merino lightweight scarves are not too bulky, even under a helmet, and fit in every pocket. Price 29,95 Euro >> available at Amazon.
People and equipment suffer from the cold, mud and snow. Here we explain how to protect your body from collapsing and keep your bike rolling.
Cranking away wildly to get your body up to operating temperature? Not a good idea. Muscles, tendons and airways need to slowly acclimatise to the cold in winter to avoid strains or a chesty cough. It's better to warm up your muscles with a few strength or stretching exercises before the tour. A warm tea relaxes the bronchial tubes. Breathing through your nose can also help. This allows the air to warm up better on the longer journey to the lungs.
As long as the human engine is running at full speed, sweat is not too much of a problem, even in the cold. During longer breaks or descents, however, the body cools down quickly in wet, sweaty clothes. A good basis is therefore functional underwear that wicks moisture away from the body. However, the most effective way to prevent cooling is still a dry change shirt and a wind-repellent layer over it. If you don't have a change of clothes with you, it's better to avoid long breaks or strenuous climbs.
In the cold, blood vessels contract and muscles tense up more quickly. In addition, the lower back in particular is often exposed to strong traction and cold, wet mud splashes. Back pain is almost inevitable. A hip bag provides precise protection for the sensitive lower back and has sufficient volume for short rides. Trousers with a waterproof back also prevent splash water from seeping through. Be careful with hydration packs: The water adds weight and cools the back.
Although low temperatures do not damage the modern batteries of e-bikes or electric drives, they can discharge more quickly in the cold. It is therefore better to store the bike in the shed at night or, if possible, take the batteries indoors. The battery should be allowed to warm up a little before charging. The same applies when starting a tour: a higher assistance level helps the battery to warm up, which has a positive effect on capacity. If the e-bike is parked permanently in winter, the charge level should be between 20 and 80 per cent.
Dirt promotes wear and tear, but an even bigger problem in winter is road salt, which you collect on the way home after the tour. The drive, bearings, suspension elements and dropper post should therefore be thoroughly cleaned after every ride. Otherwise, fine dirt particles will work their way deeper and deeper into the seals, shift cables and bearings, and the drivetrain will start to develop rust film after just a few days. If you get to work immediately after the tour, the gentle jet of the garden hose and a soft brush are enough to remove coarser dirt from the attachment parts. Then dry everything with a cloth and lubricate the chain with viscous oil (e.g. Dr Wack F100 eBike oil or Muc-Off e-Bike Wet Lube) relubricate.
Even if the jersey feels dry, we lose a lot of fluid in the cold. The body has to heat and humidify the air. This means that liquid also evaporates when we breathe out. The drier air also affects the mucous membranes and makes them more susceptible to viruses and bacteria. Therefore: remember to drink regularly.
Softshell or insulating clothing is rarely waterproof. Regular waterproofing - e.g. with Ballistol Biker-Wet-Protect Spray - increases protection in winter sleet or when riding through puddles and keeps you dry for longer.
Lamps with integrated high beam provide the best of both worlds: StVZO-compliant commuting AND night rides on real trails.
Lights are mandatory on German roads. But if you also want to turn off the cycle path onto the trail, you need more light than ordinary StVZO lamps provide. They must be aimed in such a way that they do not dazzle oncoming traffic. Conversely, this means that anything above handlebar height remains invisible to bikers in the forest. The solution: spotlights with high beam. They cast their light cone far above the glare-free cut-off line so that the fun doesn't come to an abrupt end at the next branch. Lupine and Supernova have two lights in their range that cut a veritable tunnel of light into the terrain and are available both with a separate battery and with a connection to the e-bike battery.
The M99 Pro 2 is one of the brightest StVZO-approved lights ever. With up to 3000 lumens in high beam mode, it burns a true light trail into the darkness. Its cone opens far upwards and therefore also enables night rides off-road. The 99 individually calculated mirror surfaces inside the aluminium housing provide ideal illumination. Its intelligent daytime riding mode automatically switches to low beam, in which 500 lumens are still emitted. As an alternative to the e-bike version, the light is also available with a separate 54 Wh battery, then as the B54 Max (899 euros >> available here).
Lupine tickles a whopping 2100 lumens out of the compact SL Minimax with a weight of just 100 grams. Its high beam is also easily sufficient for riding on pitch-black trails. The integrated brightness sensor automatically activates the high or low beam, which delivers a maximum of 900 lumens. The Minimax can also be controlled from the handlebars using the remote control supplied. There are connection kits for almost all e-bike motors, but Lupine also offers a battery-powered version. With the abbreviation AF, the SL Minimax (from 530 euros >> available here) with up to 70 Wh battery packs turn night into day on non-motorised bikes.
Lights that make bikers visible to traffic are sufficient for commuting or travelling into town. High-quality and powerful headlights are available for around 100 euros.
Battery life and illumination are the strengths of the Lezyne with its stylish aluminium housing. In blast mode, the four LEDs throw a total of 600 lumens onto the road. With the optional Infinite Light Power Pack+, the runtime can be more than doubled.
The LS 480 can be mounted on or under the handlebars in a few simple steps and also fits Garmin or GoPro mounts. Together with the Vector rear light, which has a brake light function, it forms the perfect commuting pair.
Visually, the Knog impresses with its elegant and robust aluminium housing; in practice, the wide illumination is particularly impressive. Its 700 lumens also provide sufficient illumination for shortcuts on forest and woodland paths.
The head controls the movement - this is still the reason why a light on the helmet is indispensable when winding your way through winding trails in the winter darkness. On tight bends, your gaze otherwise wanders into the pitch-black night ahead before the handlebars and light provide the illumination. Even if night rides are not prohibited, you should avoid sensitive areas if possible and leave the forest at dusk, for example, so that wild animals are not disturbed while foraging. In contrast, night rides are less of a problem near cities because the animals here have adapted better to encounters with humans and react less stressed.
Still the authority when it comes to helmet lights. The Piko is small, light and extremely powerful. The tiny model now fires 2100 lumens from its 60 gram aluminium housing. If you are travelling with a small 3.5 Ah battery, you can even attach both conveniently to your helmet. The Piko is controlled via Bluetooth remote control. Illumination and brightness are unrivalled for this size.
A real price-performance tip can be found at the bicycle giant Cube. The HPA 2000 from their own brand Acid provides a whopping 2000 lumens at just 80 grams. Luminosity and light distribution are absolutely sufficient. The well thought-out GoPro mount, wireless remote control and attractive finish are impressive.
>> You can find even more tips on multifunctional lamps in this article: Test headlamps for multisport: plenty of light power for biking, running, trail running...
When things get really dirty, good mudguards - "mudguards" is the correct term - save a lot of washing. That's why we have selected five large mudguard sets that are designed to keep fully riders clean.
Even with large mudfenders, there is no rescue up to the knee or half of the thigh, but the good constructions keep the rest reasonably clean. The additional weight is less than the eye-catching appearance suggests. Effective mudguard sets weigh only 350 to 400 grams. If you want to buy a set in favour of a uniform look and easy procurement, you can't go wrong with SKS. However, all models are also available individually. Functionally, the British Crud XL fender for the front and the cantilevered Unleazhed at the rear are the favourites. As most models are designed for similar rear triangles (four-link with a seat stay angle of around 30 to 35 degrees), the easily angle-adjustable model from Mucky Nutz can close any gaps at the rear. Topeak offers the most elegant and robust attachment for frequent mounting.
With the Fender XL for the front wheel, the British have landed a hit. The tool-free assembly with six tight rubber rings is wobble-free, the centrally split design allows air to reach the tyre. Plenty of length at the front, so good protection for the face. Our tip for the front wheel.
The rear mudguard inevitably leaves a lot of air to the tyre for the suspension travel on the fully. The protection is correspondingly moderate - more a part for hardtails. Mounting on the seat post requires a 5 mm hexagon socket. Technically solid, but not a winner. Unfortunately only available to order online.
The front mudguard from Mucky Nutz could probably only be fitted sensibly with cable ties. The Velcro strips supplied are fiddly and not very durable. They also barely keep the very flexible protector away from the tyre. From our point of view, not very recommendable.
The rear wheel model, on the other hand, can shine. It offers the greatest angle adjustment and is therefore also suitable for hardtails or rear triangles outside the four-link mainstream. It sits solidly. The mounted extension can be quickly removed with the press of a thumb. Good protection and good construction.
SKS delivers the most balanced set in the test. Both parts are really good in terms of protection and mounting, even if neither sets standards. At the front, only SKS offers the option of direct screw mounting on suitable triple clamps with the enclosed adapter, but the relatively wide Velcro straps also hold both protectors securely in place.
The rear mudguard can be mounted at two angles and can be extended forwards and backwards by around ten centimetres using the included extensions. We did not use the rear extension because it would have increased the visible tail. A plus: the extensive mounting material included in the scope of delivery.
Topeak goes to great lengths for its mudflaps: the already sturdiest Velcro straps in the test can be tightened further with a small screw, the metal struts are adjustable and both protectors can be shortened and lengthened without tools. That weighs. The set is over 200 grams heavier than most of the competition and is somewhat more complex to adjust during initial assembly.
With good average protection at the front and a slightly too small deflector at the rear, the set doesn't quite keep up with the manufacturing quality in terms of protection.
At first glance, the set from the German manufacturer Unleazhed looks similar to the SKS range. A direct comparison reveals different qualities: Unleazhed makes do with narrower Velcro straps for its slightly lighter set, and the rubber pads between the rear mudguard and frame are also a little more fiddly.
However, the protective effect of the rear mud catcher is significantly better than that of the competitor. The generously long protector is less susceptible to vibrations thanks to three-dimensional reinforcements on the inside. This allows it to utilise its length and width with ease. No other in the test kept the back cleaner. Similar performance to SKS on the front wheel.

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