The good news first. A mountain bike is never bulky waste. It doesn't matter whether it's a formerly inexpensive standard model or an expensive race model. As long as it is ready to ride or can be made ready to ride in a few simple steps, it has a useful value. Perhaps no longer as an MTB for tough Alpine tours, but at least still as a classic for daily commuting or for travelling into the city. As these bikes are made to a higher standard than new, cheap bikes, many price foxes look for older mountain bikes on the second-hand market. 150 is the minimum price for a functioning steel MTB from the early nineties. A rigid fork is more of a selling point than a flaw. Old-style suspension forks offer no comfort worth mentioning and only increase the risk of punctures. If the bike is a race model from a well-known mass-produced brand, such as Scott, Specialised or Trek, you can easily get a rigid fork. 200 to 400 Euro for the vintage MTB.
Once technically revolutionary exotics, such as the Staiger Black Arrow with one of the first monocoque carbon frames in MTB history, manufactured from 1993 by the small German manufacturer Holder, can be used for 500 to 1000 Euro sell. Provided you can find that MTB enthusiast who has emotional memories of their youth associated with this particular model. But if you own a true icon of the early nineties, such as an early Yeti C-26are up to five-digit amounts inside.
Cult bikes from the nineties are an investment, like rare Rolex watches or analogue Leica cameras. - Henri Lesewitz, BIKE editor and fan of classic MTBs
The area of cult bikes and MTB icons is highly complex and reserved for the few experts who hang out in special internet forums. Retrobike UK is one of the best known, and the Classic forum on mtb-news.de is also a popular portal. An approximate value can be quickly determined there. In general, a distinction is made between classic bikes (built up to 1996) and youngtimers (built up to 2000). Only classic cars are traded at a really high price. Especially those from the early nineties, which are considered the golden age of MTB sport. Back then, the innovations came from (then) small forges, most of which were also active in the World Cup:
The list could go on forever. The models from the eighties, although often even more historic, are less sought-after. But even here, there are individual models that fetch high prices.
These manufacturers are representative of the 80s.
Anyone who owns a bike with one of these dazzling names has something of real value. However, exorbitant prices can only be achieved for absolutely exceptional bikes. A Yeti A.R.C. from the top 1993 model year in good condition will fetch around 3000 to 4000 euros. A Klein Attitude of the sought-after 1992 or 1993 vintage achieves a similar price. This does not correspond to a rocket-like increase in value, but is still roughly equivalent to the value when new. Original professional bikes, famous prototypes and even then rare models such as the Yeti C-26 or the Klein Adroit in a rare colour variant are really expensive. These can quickly run into five-figure sums. Unfortunately, it is rare to find something like this in a cellar. The few models that do exist have long been in the hands of collectors.
The idea of gutting a classic car and dismantling it into its individual parts makes you shudder for a moment. Nevertheless, in some cases this is actually recommended. If the equipment is high-end, but the frame is only a 08/15 model. Classic fans are constantly on the lookout for parts for their restoration projects. An old XTR crankset from the early M-900 series can fetch up to several hundred euros, while a complete bike with this groupset might only just scratch the 500 euro mark. Even a well-preserved Flite saddle from the first model years can fetch up to 100 euros. If you then also sell the gears, brakes, wheels, sprocket set and frame individually, this can be more profitable than selling the complete bike. The disadvantage: the effort involved in dismantling, offering and shipping each individual part. We only recommend selling the bike in individual parts to experienced mechanics and those who have at least a rough idea of the price structure of the classic scene. The same applies here: It doesn't hurt to ask. You can usually get help quickly in the forums.
Clear answer: No. If you don't have the expertise and the necessary special tools, you should leave the fork as it is. Companies like Rockshox or Fox don't have any spare parts for old models in stock anyway. If you value a functioning fork, you need to look for experts in forums. But even they usually can't help with the main problem: Once elastomers have hardened, nothing can be done. The once soft fork then has the properties of a rigid model. There is always a risk that the elastomers will crumble in the event of a hard impact and the fork will dip uncontrollably. For show bikes, ageing forks are okay. If you want to ride the bike properly, you should convert to a rigid fork. Important: The installation height must be correct, otherwise you will have a messed up steering angle. Seals that have become porous on forks with oil suspension are also annoying. Here too, the function is limited and a real repair is virtually impossible due to the unavailability of spare parts.
Cleaning is obligatory. Only if the mountain bike looks appealing and is presented in a smart way will interested parties bite. We recommend taking the bike apart as much as possible. Not only to remove dust and dirt better. But also to check the MTB for possible damage. This is particularly important for carbon components or CNC-milled parts. The buyer should not be exposed to any risk. We recommend: Remove the wheels, cranks and sprocket set. And then roughly clean everything with water, a sponge and a brush. Once everything is dry, fine-clean with a cloth.
A thorough cleaning, including the most important reactivation measures such as chain oiling and air inflation, usually only takes one or two hours. After that, the bike looks fresh again. The question of where to offer the bike for sale is far more complex. There is no one-size-fits-all answer. It depends on the type of bike. And on the effort you are prepared to put in.
Everyday classics: Bikes that commuters are looking for are in good hands on Ebay classifieds. The advert costs nothing and the interested party can test ride the bike directly and take it with them. This saves shipping stress and eliminates misunderstandings between seller and buyer.
Cult bike: The best way to sell a historically relevant MTB is to offer it for sale in a classic forum. This is where you'll meet the experts. However, they are often very open to discussion, which can occasionally get out of hand without the seller actually receiving a purchase offer. You can always get rid of iconic models built up to 1995 or 1996. The question is at what price. If the bike is a newer model, it is usually of no interest to classic fans.
Icons: Classic forums are ideal. You know that the little treasure will be in good hands. Problem: When posting an offer, you must always state a price or at least a basis for negotiation. If you are unsure what you can ask for, valuation threads can help. If you want to sell the bike for the highest possible price, you can also auction it on eBay. However, this costs a considerable selling fee. You also run the risk of achieving a lower price than you realise. A correspondingly high minimum bid minimises this risk. The big advantage of Ebay: The good protection against fraudsters as well as the high reach.
A tip: Take your time with the sale. First think about whether you'd rather keep the bike you've experienced so much with. Sometimes sentimentality catches up with you. I could still bite myself in the arse today that I sold my 1993 Klein Attitude years ago, on which I rode my first marathon in 1994. -Henri Lesewitz, BIKE editor
Mountain bikes built after 2000 are subject to the simple law of supply and demand. There are no formulas or guide values here. Before the coronavirus pandemic and the resulting mountain bike boom, a new bike lost 50 per cent of its value within a year. The value of high-quality bikes then fell steadily over the next few years to around €1000, where it then levelled off. A good, used mountain bike that was ready to ride rarely cost less than 800 euros and only in exceptional cases more than 2000 euros.
In the meantime, it has become somewhat more difficult to come up with general guidelines. Some 26-inch MTBs that have been written off are experiencing a revival thanks to the kids' boom. Other models are hardly in demand any more, such as heavy freeriders with a rustic design. You have to research the approximate value from model to model. In addition to used MTB exchanges in forums and Ebay as well as Ebay classifieds, there are now a large number of special bike sales portals. From wirkaufendeinfahrrad.de and buycycle.com to to Fabio Wibmer's bikeflip.com there are countless ways to offer a bike. Tip: Research what comparable models cost on the portals. And then post it on the platform that appeals to you the most.