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1. the foundation: the assembly stand
No more turning the bike over on the saddle and handlebars! A stable Mounting stand brings your bike to eye level. This protects your back and is a prerequisite for precise adjustment of the gears and brakes, as the crank can be turned freely.
- What you should look out for: It must be stable, even if you clamp a heavy E-MTB. A swivelling claw is mandatory so that you can fix the bike at any angle.
- Our tip: Feedback Sports Mechanic 2.0 - Robust, stable and compactly foldable.
2. for fine minds: the torque spanner
In times of carbon frames and delicate aluminium bolts, "tightening by feel" is a death sentence for your material. A torque spanner is essential to ensure that the stem, handlebars and seatpost are tightened with the exact force specified by the manufacturer.
- The range: For most screws on the bike, a range of 2 to 15 Nm ideal.
- Our tip: Wera Bicycle Set Torque 1 extremely precise and clicks noticeably when the target is reached.
3. the classics: Allen and Torx set
90 per cent of all screws on the bike are hexagon socket (Allen) or Torx. Don't save at the wrong end here: cheap tools "screw up" the screw heads and then it gets really expensive.
- Important: Make sure that a T25 Torx is included - the standard for brake discs and more and more gearstick components. A ball head at the long ends helps you to get into tight spots.
- Our tip: ParkTool hexagon socket spanner set PH-1.2 and ParkTool hexagon socket spanner set PH-T1.2 - fit perfectly in the hand and last forever.
4 The specialist: Bowden cable cutter
Never try to cut a shift cable with normal combination pliers or side cutters. The result is frayed ends that you will never get back through the outer casing. A special cable cutter does not crush the cable, but cuts it cleanly.
- Pro Tip: Good pliers often have an integrated needle to expand the compressed outer shell again after the cut.
- Our tip: Shimano TL CT12- the classic in almost every professional workshop.
5th drive duo: chain whip & cassette puller
If your cassette is through, you have to get it off somehow. As the freewheel turns in one direction when empty, you need the chain whip to hold it in place and the puller attachment for the lockring.
- Important: Make sure that the puller fits your standard (Shimano/SRAM vs. Campagnolo). Most MTBs use the Shimano standard.
- Our tip: BBB Cycling cassette puller BTL-194 (set for Shimano / SRAM) - simple, solid and functional.
6. the saviour: chain riveters & wear gauge
A good chain riveter belongs in every workshop (and a small one in a multi-tool for travelling). You can use it to open and close the chain, remove chain links or shorten the chain.
- Additional tool: The Wear gauge tells you in good time when the chain is due before it ruins your expensive cassette.
- Our tip: PRO Team chain tool 12-speed (12-way compatible).
7. for perfect concentricity on the wheel: the centring stand
A "figure of eight" in the wheel is annoying and, in the worst case, the tyre grinds on the frame. Use a truing stand and a spoke spanner to get your rim back on track. To start with, a simple model is enough to pull out lateral run-outs.
- Tip: If you dare to build your own wheels, a solid model is worthwhile. An entry-level model is sufficient for quick corrections in between.
- Our tip: Rose 2-Cent:A-XL Centre stand - a great compromise between price and precision.
Our conclusion: With these seven tools, you are equipped for almost all standard bike maintenance. Start small, buy quality instead of cheap and don't be afraid of screwing. Most operations are not rocket science if you have the right tools. And if you do get stuck, a good shop will always be able to help you. Have fun crafting!
Stefan Frey
Editor
