Step 1 - Tyre selection: Two old mountain bike tyres form the basis for our winter rubber. The coarser the studs, the better the resulting spike is suited to deeper snow and soft terrain. For everyday use on hard-packed snow and icy paths, a low-profile tyre is more suitable.
Step 2 - Drill the holes: To ensure that the studs are centred in the cleats, we pre-drill the holes from the outside with a thin drill bit (two millimetres). Not every stud needs to be prepared with a screw. The basic rule is: the more screws, the better the grip, but also the greater the rolling resistance and the additional weight.
Step 3 - Insert the screws: Commercially available Spax are used as spikes. Screws twelve millimetres long and three millimetres thick (depending on the tread) are sufficient for most tyres. Use the cordless screwdriver to screw them through the pre-drilled holes from the inside. Stainless steel screws last longer, but are also significantly more expensive.
Step 4 - Protective layer:To protect the hose from the screw heads, we place a strap over the metal surfaces. Alternatively, an old racing bike tyre is suitable. For short-term use, an old inner tube or several layers of thick tape are also sufficient. But beware: Thin materials rub through during continuous use and there is a risk of flats.
Step 5 - Shorten the screws:Finally, the screws must be cut to size with a pair of pliers, please wear safety goggles when doing so! The ends should protrude around two millimetres from the tread. Only those who use the tyres exclusively on very soft and deep ground can increase grip with longer studs.
Attention: Hot! The risk of injury is significantly higher with self-made spikes than with conventional MTB tyres. A mudguard prevents unintentional contact with the sharp spikes on the rear wheel.
Stefan Frey
Editor
