There are many spike models. We recommend the highest possible number of studs and the widest possible tyre width. Studded tyres in the same dimension as your summer tyres usually fit best in the wheel. Run in new studded tyres on asphalt so that the studs set into the rubber. Avoid braking hard. Lost studs can be bought and replaced. You can also upgrade tyres with a smaller number of studs but enough holes.
What you need to fit studded tyres:
1 - Easy Fit assembly fluid
2 - Pressure tester
3 - Plastic tyre lever
4 - Rim tape
5 - Spare spikes and insertion tool
How the spike tyres are fitted
1 - Remove the wheels and take off the summer tyres and inner tubes. Take the opportunity to check whether the rim tape is still flat in the rim base and covers all spoke holes cleanly. Worn rim tape should be replaced immediately.
2 - Place the spike tyre with one side already in the rim. It is advisable to use normal or even thicker downhill tyres rather than lightweight inner tubes, as it is better to ride at low pressure in winter. Insert the inflated inner tube completely into the tyre from the valve.
3 - For easier fitting and an even fit, you can apply Easy Fit fitting fluid to the tyre sidewall. This has the advantage over rinsing solutions that it dries without leaving any residue and does not leave any greasy spots. Then press the tyre sidewall fully into the rim seat. Push the valve back into the inner tube once so that the thickened valve plate does not get jammed under the tyre beads. Work with tyre levers if the tyre fit is tight.
4 - Pump the tyre to operating pressure. For running-in and on dry tarmac, go to the upper edge of the pressure range. In snow and ice, reduce the pressure to the lower limit. Before fitting the tyre, rotate it slowly in your hand to check for imbalance.
5 - Install the wheels and check the wheel run-out. The studded tyre must not graze anywhere.
6 - If it gets stuck: mudguard stays can often be moved a few millimetres. The lug on the fork crown also has a slotted hole. On the rear wheel, it may help to remove spacers from the plates to the frame. If a studded tyre does not fit at the rear, it still makes sense to have studs at least on the front wheel. Because if the front wheel slips, a fall is almost inevitable. A slipping rear wheel is usually less critical.
How to replace lost studs in tyres
1 - The rivet-shaped aluminium bodies of the studs are located in hollowed-out cavities in the tyre rubber. To allow the metal pins to set, you should run in new studded tyres for around 40 kilometres on dry asphalt. Avoid heavy braking. Drive with high pressure in the upper part of the tolerance range indicated on the tyre sidewall.
2 - Nevertheless, individual spikes can be lost. The holes in the rubber do not usually break out. You can insert new spike nails there.
3 - The spikes anchor themselves in the tyre rubber with their wide base plate. The tool consists of a hollow steel that holds the tip of the spike made of hard tungsten carbide. Insert the spike into the tool.
4 - Wear protective gloves when inserting the tyre, as the spike tips in the tyre are sharp-edged. Bend the tyre slightly in the area of the empty hole. This makes the opening at the top slightly oval. Position the replacement spike and tool at an angle to the hole.
5 - Use the tool to lever the base plate of the spike through the opening and press the pin firmly through to the bottom of the cavity. Make sure that the new stud is seated cleanly and exactly vertically stable in its fit. It makes sense to have as many studs as possible distributed over the entire tyre surface. Tyre models with 240 studs are heavier, but also much safer on ice. Tyres with only two individual rows of spikes in the centre of the tread do not provide safe propulsion, sufficient lateral guidance or braking grip and quickly start to slip.
