Bikefitting - do-it-yourself tips

Find the right seat height

The seat height is one of the most important factors for an efficient and problem-free riding position. To do this, you must first measure the crotch length. Hold a spirit level in your crotch and measure the distance from its upper edge to the ground. You can now calculate the seat height using the following formula:

Seat height = 0.885 x stride length

Now pull the seat post out of the frame until the distance between the centre of the bottom bracket and the upper edge of the saddle corresponds to your seat height. Test this seating position and make incremental changes in the millimetre range if necessary.

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Bikefitting - do-it-yourself tips: the right bike setting for comfortable and efficient biking in the video

Saddle position and saddle angle

To prevent unfavourable pressure distribution, the saddle should be levelled using a spirit level. It is important to place the spirit level on the saddle nose and the contact point of the seat bones and not on the rear edge of the saddle. Small adjustments can then be made from this position. By moving the saddle forwards or backwards, you can change the effective seat angle. The hip and knee angles are more important than the knee plumb line when it comes to optimising the saddle position. Uli Plauman from Radlabor München knows from everyday fitting that the saddle should firstly be installed in the specified clamping range and secondly tend to be slightly further forwards. This helps to avoid pain and tension in the neck and lower back.

Uli Plaumann is convinced: "The saddle and its position is the central element, the epicentre for fitting, so to speak. The main power axes of the pedalling movement emanate from it. That's why I attach great importance to aligning the saddle position precisely. When fitting, the principle often applies: small cause, big effect. For example, if the arms are just one centimetre longer than intended for the wheel geometry, this already significantly changes the seat angle. In the end, we tailor the bike so that it fits like a customised suit."

You can find out more about saddles here "Everything you need to know about saddles". Of course, there's also a current saddle test.

Stem, handlebars and grips

The contact surface and diameter of the handles must match the size of the hand to avoid nerve irritation. The damping of the cockpit influences the fatigue of your hands and arms ("arm pump"). Together with the reach and stack values of your frame, the handlebars and stem determine how upright or stretched you sit on the bike. The height of the cockpit can be varied via the angle of the stem, the number of spacers and the rise of the handlebars. High combinations counteract the feeling of rolling over downhill, while a flat front only climbs uphill later.

Short stems and narrow handlebars raise the upper body, long stems and wide handlebars lower it. However, stem length and handlebar width also depend on the riding style. The width of the handlebars should match the shoulder width. If it is too wide, it can cause pain in the wrists. Handlebars that are too narrow can restrict your breathing and offer less control on technical trails. The upsweep and backsweep of handlebars shorten the riding position and influence the position of the joints.

Read more about handlebar width in this article.

Set the brake lever correctly

When cycling, one finger is constantly on the brake lever and therefore determines the hand position. Most current disc brakes are designed as one-finger models. If the index finger is on the outer edge of the brake lever, the least amount of force is required to actuate it. The index finger positioned on the brake lever should neither be overstretched nor pointing strongly downwards. Instead, the finger should be in a natural and relaxed position. To find this setting, sit on your bike and adjust the angle of the brake levers so that your outstretched finger is above the lever. Finally, adjust the reach. The grip width of the brake is optimal when the first phalanx of the index finger can grip around the lever.

Cleat position

The positioning of the cleats is essential for pain-free movement when cycling. As a rule, they should be positioned on the line between the base joints of the biggest and smallest toe. To do this, feel the position of the outer joints and mark them on the shoe with adhesive tape or a pen. If you now place a ruler between the two points, you will obtain the axis on which the cleats should be mounted. This results in a position for the cleats that is about 0.5 to 1 centimetre behind the metatarsophalangeal joint. The rotation of the cleats should correspond to the position of the foot when standing. A straight alignment at the slotted holes is recommended as the starting position. After a test ride, you can readjust in small steps.

Tools and apps for bike fitting at home

Bike Fast Fit Elite - App for iOs

With the app (9.99 euros), you can carry out a rudimentary video analysis of your bike set-up yourself. To do this, defined points on the body are labelled with stickers and then a sequence of around 30 seconds is recorded with the smartphone. The app analyses the position of the body points and suggests adjustments to the joint angles.

Posiclist - Fast Bike Fit - Android App

The free app makes it possible to analyse the position of the main angles on the entire body using an uploaded driving photo. The app shows the current angles and suggests recommended areas.

My Velo Fit - Website

The website is only available in English. It offers various price models and starts with a free version. Various photo and video uploads are used to determine mobility and position on the bike. Customisation suggestions are provided.

Book BIKEFITTING

In the book BIKEFITTING by Daniel Hechenblaickner, the bike fitter and physiotherapist explains how to make adjustments to the bike geometry on your own. There are also tips for those who do go for a fitting. Delius Klasing Verlag, 24.90 euros (eBook 19,99 Euro)