MTB adventure in the Andes: The incredible powder trails of Ecuador
Text: Max Draeger
When our shuttle vehicle rolls into the driveway, we are taken aback. We had expected to see a large pickup truck or an off-road van, but what stops in front of us is a small, grey coach with the words "County Deluxe" on it. Driver Victor jumps out and mounts our bikes in a specially built structure across the roof. We take a seat on the 16 seats inside. We chug along for almost three hours through the Andes of Ecuador, from the capital Quito to Ibarra, 120 kilometres to the north. However, we are not heading for accommodation in the city, but to Laguna Yahuarcocha, on the shore of which a handful of tipis with a jacuzzi await us.
Rolling in on the Avenida de los Volcanes
Esteban and Cuevo are almost bursting with anticipation for our next two weeks together. The two of them grew up together in Ecuador and this is their first reunion since Esteban emigrated to Austria in 2020. "Do you want to come with me on my next visit home and experience completely different trails?" Esteban had enticed us with this and planned this Andean adventure together with his mate. But even he was in for a few surprises on this trip, as the trail shovels in Ecuador haven't stood still in the last four years either. We will meet some of these passionate locals on our trip, as our route will wind along the "Avenida de los Volcanes", the strip of the Andes that runs through the entire country from north to south.
The highlight of the trip is supposed to be the 6263 metre-high Chimborazo in a few days' time, but for Markus, Fabi and me, the challenge begins on the morning of the first trail descent: "Watch out, it's loose and has some pretty deep ruts!" says Este before he bravely rolls over a wide ridgeline - and is immediately swallowed up by his own cloud of dust. The same spectacle happens with Cuevo. We, on the other hand, carefully feel our way into the new terrain and immediately struggle to keep our feet on the pedals. If only because you're practically blind in the swirling dust of the vehicle in front. But also because the whole slope is criss-crossed with "ruts", i.e. gullies and ruts that you don't want to get into.
With lots of floury sand in our clothes and between our teeth, we eventually meet up with our two guides again. They grin: "Be scared or be loco!" A phrase that we will hear more often over the next few days.
Okay, we decide in favour of "loco"
The next morning, we meet trail farmer Daniel in Pimampiro. His territory towers 1000 metres above the small town. A mountain where he and his crew can let off steam in all directions. And there are really good enduro trails with berms, small jumps, steps and tight bends - almost like back home in Austria. But just as we're getting back into our comfort zone, Daniel stops us at the next test of courage: "If you go straight, you enter a very steep and exposed ridge with little grip and no room for error. Have a look first!" Ok, really steep. So steep that you can't even see the end of this fall line. The whole thing in the middle of nowhere. But all right, we scrape together all the confidence we've just regained and decide in favour of: "loco!". This time Este is the last to push off. He's travelling pretty fast again when he suddenly goes over the handlebars in an absolute no-fall zone. His bike whirls through the air and Este also rolls over several times - but then gets stuck on a mini ledge. Uninjured. That was close.
After a few days, our two guides are sure that our experience is now sufficient for the country's two volcanic icons: We put our bikes back on the bus and head south towards Cotopaxi and Chimborazo!
18 of Ecuador's 55 volcanoes are still active. Among them is the 5897 metre high Cotopaxi. But not even a rumble can be heard as we get off the bus at 4600 metres above sea level on its dusty flank. You can't go any higher, even by bike, because the crater of the mountain is covered by a thick glacier cap. So we surf downhill through a huge gravel slope and a few hundred metres later plunge into the cloud cover. A mist that allows grass to sprout from the ground and a trail called "Holy Ridge" has made itself at home in it. Unexpectedly flowy, winding and never-ending, it plays with the slope. The flow doesn't stop in the afternoon either, as there is now a bike park on the Cotopaxi that even Este hasn't seen yet: fast trails with perfect curve radii and jumps of all sizes. We only look in vain for braking waves.
One of the must-sees on a trip along the "Avenida de los Volcanes" is, of course, the Chimborazo. At 6263 metres, it is the highest point in the country and towers like a colossus in the landscape. Due to its proximity to the equator, its summit is even 2000 metres further away from the centre of the earth than Mount Everest.
Este has planned two days for the ascent of the "Chimbo". Firstly, because the altitude here will be a lot harder for us and secondly, because he wants to visit his mate. Rodrigo, a 68-year-old mountaineer, runs a small hut on the eastern flank of the mountain at an altitude of 4,100 metres. This is where we will spend the night today.
It will be the toughest night for Este and Fabi
The food is simple, but the homemade canelazo schnapps is accompanied by Rodrigo's stories. And a lot has happened in the 36 years he has lived up here. This is followed by the hardest night of our trip for Este and Fabi, as the air up here is noticeably thinner. Breathing shallowly, they lie in bed wide awake with high pulse rates and headaches. The next morning, they set off on the spectacular descent feeling less than refreshed: Rodrigo has clarified for us that we can take the hiking trail from Refugio Carrel on the other side of the mountain. He also tells us that rangers shouldn't catch us on the way. We are therefore glad when we reach the start of the "Cascarilla". A trail that is mainly used for enduro and downhill races. After a whopping twelve kilometres, it leads to a small mountain village, where Cuevo stops at a small hut and pays a few dollars for our ride.
It is late afternoon when we reach the start of the last trail. Another 18 kilometres to our next accommodation in Guaranda. But now with a few crisp climbs and increasingly difficult to breathe, hot and humid air that will only please the banana trees that will soon be flanking us. "You'd better get used to it," says Este. "It's going to be even hotter next week." Our southernmost spot near Cuenca will actually be shimmering at 40 degrees, which suits the "Vuelta del Diablo", the devil's circuit with its exposed hairpin bends, just fine. And, of course: 'todo loco' also applies here.
Info Ecuador
The MTB area
Ecuador is located in the north-west of South America and - as the name suggests - the equator runs right through the country (20 kilometres north of the capital Quito). The Andes, on the other hand, stretch from north to south with a chain of 55 volcanoes, some of which are still active. The highest peak is the 6263 metre high Chimborazo. As a mountain biker, you are constantly at altitudes between 2000 and 4000, max. 4600 metres, which takes some getting used to for Europeans. Above all, the surface of the finest, flour-like ash sand is a bit of a challenge at first. But once you get the hang of it, you can really let it fly on these trails. Time difference to European winter time: 6 hours. Currency: US dollar.
How to get there
The fastest flight from Germany to Quito takes just under 15 hours including one stop. You do not need a visa to enter Ecuador, just a passport that is valid for at least six months.
Best time to travel
From May/June to September, Ecuador experiences the least rainfall in the mountains. Temperatures in the mountains are also at their most pleasant during this period. At lower altitudes, however, it can also be very hot in the summer months. We had to contend with 40 degrees around southern Cuenca.
Guided tour
Ecuador is one of the safest countries to travel to in South America. Nevertheless, according to the German Foreign Office, there are regions that are better not to visit due to the high crime rate. However, as bikers need a shuttle vehicle anyway, it is best to book the trip with an organiser who will work out the route to the best trails together with the locals and reserve the best accommodation. For example, with the Innsbruck-based organiser Flat Sucks, who planned and scouted out our tour. Information on prices and dates for 2025: flatsucks.at
My highlights
Food: The cuisine in Ecuador's mountains is often simple and delicious. Be sure to try it: Ceviche, a cold soup with fish, prawns and the typical plantain chips.
Trails: On first contact, the deep, dusty trails feel quite spongy. Especially on the long backcountry trails on the Chimborazo and Cotopaxi. The descents in the bike parks, on the other hand, come pretty close to our European trails. My absolute favourite: the "La Paz" trail near Cuenca and the trails on Guagua Pichincha, Quito's local mountain.
