How did the idea for your trip come about? Is there a back story?
Wiebke Lühmann I did my first longer cycle tour in 2019, when I travelled through South America for several months. It was there that I completely fell in love with travelling by bike. This mixture of freedom, simplicity and intense encounters with people has stayed with me ever since. A few years later, I travelled to the North Cape by bike. At some point on this trip, I had the idea: how exciting would it be to connect the northernmost point of Europe with the southernmost point of Africa? In other words, from the North Cape to the Cape of Good Hope. The idea of crossing an entire continent under my own steam immediately grabbed me. At the same time, I wasn't just interested in the destination of Cape Town.
It was all about seeing the world with your own eyes, the people, landscapes, smells and stories along the way.
I often say: my own ignorance drives me - to really learn about Africa, to experience what it's like there and my curiosity to experience and see this large part of the world for myself. The Cape became more of a beautiful symbolic end point of a very long journey.
How long did it take from the idea to the launch? Did you have any doubts in between?
Wiebke Lühmann There was about a year between the initial idea and the start. During this time, I started to look more closely at the route, visas, vaccinations and equipment. Of course, there were always doubts. Especially shortly before the start. A journey of 20,000 kilometres through more than 20 countries seems huge on paper. But at the same time, I have learnt on previous cycling trips that such projects always consist of small stages. You don't have to complete the whole journey in one go - just the next day. In the end, the biggest challenge wasn't the route, but letting go: Home, everyday life, security. But at some point, the moment comes when you realise: now it's time to set off.
How did the route come about? How concretely did you plan it? Did you choose a number of fixed points beforehand, places, cities that you definitely wanted to visit?
Wiebke Lühmann: I had a rough macro plan: from Freiburg via Spain to Morocco and then south along the west coast of Africa to Cape Town. But many details only emerged en route. Things change quickly in Africa in particular - political situations, visa regulations or road conditions. That's why I usually only planned a few weeks in advance. Of course, a few points were certain, for example the Sahara or the Atlantic coast as far as Nigeria. But a lot of things also resulted from encounters. Other travellers, locals or spontaneous recommendations often decided where I went next.
You have travelled through countries that are considered politically unstable and sometimes even dangerous from a Western perspective. What role did this play in your considerations and plans?
Wiebke Lühmann: Of course, I informed myself beforehand, for example via travel advice from the Federal Foreign Office or reports from other cycle travellers. At the same time, you quickly realise that the reality is often much more complex than the picture we know from the news. Whatsapp and Facebook groups often provide up-to-the-minute information about the countries. I tried to stay alert, talk to people on the ground a lot and react flexibly. If a situation felt unsafe, I adjusted the route. Basically, however, I experienced one thing above all while travelling: an incredible amount of helpfulness and curiosity.
Many African countries are characterised by societies that view the roles of women and men differently than in European countries. Did this concern you before travelling? How did people react to you as a woman travelling alone? Were there any situations in which you were afraid?
Wiebke Lühmann: As a woman travelling alone, you are more visible in some situations and sometimes have to listen more closely to your gut feeling. I always had travel companions, which often made it feel less like travelling alone - although it has to be said that you always stand out as a bike traveller, whether in a group or alone. At the same time, I also realised that being a woman often opens doors for me.
I was often invited by families, especially women. Many wanted to know why I was travelling alone or what my life was like at home. It's nice to be able to exchange ideas.
There were hardly any situations that were unpleasant, I didn't experience any really dangerous situations. It was important for me to stay alert and listen to my instincts. And the helpfulness, trust and friendliness of the people everywhere was always great.
Is there an experience with people that has particularly impressed you in retrospect or has remained in your memory?
Wiebke Lühmann: What I remember most is the incredible hospitality of many people, their openness and warmth towards strangers. These encounters have shown me that we humans are often much more similar than we think. Especially at my lowest points, when I wasn't feeling well, there were women who saw me and made me laugh, even though we don't even speak the same language.
You had many encounters and occasional company on your journey, but you were also travelling alone. Were there any moments of loneliness?
Wiebke Lühmann: There were few moments when I felt lonely. Only on my birthday without my twin sister and in the Congo Basin, where I was emotionally and mentally very empty. There is no good antidote other than time and patience. One thing is always certain: change. And when you're travelling, things usually always move on somehow. I like both: travelling together and alone. When travelling alone, you learn to listen to yourself better and develop confidence in your own decisions. When travelling together, you can share a lot of things and it becomes a more intense part of your memory.
How did you experience nature and the environment?
Wiebke Lühmann: Africa is incredibly diverse. I travelled through the Sahara, along the West African coast with some beautiful islands, across the Nigerian high plateau, through the Congo Basin, the vastness of Angola, Namibia, along the West Coast National Park to Cape Town. In many places, I was very impressed by the vastness and wildness of nature. But there are also the modern cities with developed roads and sometimes very modern roads through large parks. At the same time, of course, you can see problems, just like in Europe: rubbish, plastic and deforested areas. Unfortunately, these contrasts are also part of the reality in many countries. I actually saw very few animals, only in southern Africa: antelopes, monkeys, elephants in the distance. You experience such encounters particularly intensively on a bike.
How do you organise your everyday life on a trip like this?
Wiebke Lühmann: Everyday life is actually pretty simple. I usually set off relatively early in the morning and cycle around 70 to 120 kilometres, depending on the route, heat or road conditions. I usually did my shopping in small village shops or at markets. I often bought pasta, bread, chocolate spread, fruit and tinned tuna. I spent a third of my nights in tents, a third with locals and a third in hotels.
What on your equipment and bike worked well, what broke?
Wiebke Lühmann: All in all, my equipment lasted surprisingly well. Of course there was wear and tear: I had to change three sets of coats, two chains and three sets of brake pads along the way. Adjusting the gears from time to time, bike and equipment maintenance are part of everyday life.
What three most important tips would you give to someone planning something similar?
Wiebke Lühmann: Firstly, don't wait too long. At some point you have to stop planning and just set off. Secondly, keep an open mind. The best moments often happen unplanned. And thirdly: Have faith. In yourself and in the people you meet along the way. The world is often friendlier than we think.
The book
Wiebke Lühmann
"Always heading south"
20,150 kilometres by bike from Freiburg to Cape Town.
Delius Klasing Verlag, 24.90 euros
Thomas Musch
Publisher
