E-bike adventure in Morocco: The search for fairytale trails

We pass through four police checkpoints in quick succession, then I mess everything up: "Something to declare?" asks the Moroccan officer. "Yes, Beers from Tegernsee," I slip out. I laugh. But the next moment the fun stops. The man in uniform next to our motorhome squints his eyes like Clint Eastwood and waves us onto the hard shoulder.

"What a stupid thing to say!", I think to myself. I suddenly realise that alcohol is not something you should be joking and boasting about in Muslim Morocco. Four police officers climb into our vehicle, open cupboards, rummage in bags and pull drawers. "Ah, a drone!" shouts one of them as he opens a suitcase containing film equipment. Drones may only be imported and flown in Morocco with prior authorisation from the authorities.

The situation is similar with radios. Shaking his head, the policeman presents his next trophy: two walkie-talkies. One faux pas after another! It dawns on me: our destination, the Atlas Mountains, is a different world to the Bavarian Alps at home. Will our adventure trip fail before it has really begun?

Now my bike mate and photographer Christian Back joins in the discussion: "Morocco - strong soccer team. Germany not good, must go home." All of a sudden, the grim faces under the police caps turn into blissful beams. Minutes later, we are allowed to drive on. Football forever! Our search for hidden trails in the Atlas Mountains and unforgettable impressions and experiences can begin.

"Morocco - strong soccer team. Germany not good, must go home."

At home, I had repeatedly heard about a dense network of donkey tracks that are said to connect isolated Berber villages in the Atlas Mountains. Enchanted, magical places as if from a bygone era. The trail research on the computer was anything but easy. The selection of routes on Trailforks was sobering. And I didn't come across many other detailed tips either. But that's precisely the attraction of an explorer trip like this.

E-MTB tour in the Atlas Mountains

The Atlas - like a mighty bulwark, the mountains looming on the horizon line the northern flank of Africa. The highest peaks, such as the Jbel Toubkal (4167 m), North Africa's highest mountain, reach the level of the Western Alps. Gradually, the last suburbs of Marrakech disappear in the rear-view mirror. The country becomes more mountainous, more lonely. The thirst for adventure is back. Christian and I dream of places that are inaccessible on paved roads, of wild mountainous areas that are as unspoilt as they have been in the Alps for a long time. In our minds, we see ourselves on a rollercoaster of red earth and rock that belongs only to us. We see ourselves surfing down mountain slopes and rolling through villages with veiled women and laughing children. We want to experience an e-bike fairy tale from 1001 nights, oriental and exotic. To make it unforgettable, we want to make a film about it. It should be shown at a film festival in the summer. That's our plan.

Redouan - our MTB guide in Morocco

The next day we meet Redouan. A man in his late thirties with an alert look, a winning laugh and a headband on his head. He is a mountain bike guide - still a very rare species in Morocco. I've spoken to Redouan on the phone several times over the past few months. He had told me about Jbel Toubkal and that the High Atlas was teeming with trails. "Here we are", Redouan announces at the end of the journey into the mountains. I look left, right, up and down. I can't recognise a trail. Redouan points to a group of thorn bushes. The entrance is behind this undergrowth. We would never have found it on our own. Early winter frost covers the path. We are at an altitude of 2000 metres. The mountain peaks above the reddish-brown slopes are already covered in snow. We set off, Redouan behind us. The path leads into a track, the track into a forest road, the forest road into a wide gravel track. Okay, the view is beautiful. But we're not satisfied with a boring roll with no steering and no bends. There must be a better way!

Even as we roll on, our thoughts are still travelling. Should we climb the four-thousander Jbel Toubkal and look for our dream trails? There's already snow there. So what to do? The next day, Redouan takes us into the desert. Christian and I are quickly reconciled to Morocco. Waves of ochre as far as we can see. Camels sway towards us. Tourists cling to their humps and sway left and right.

Velvety sand dunes & golden sunsets

As the sun sinks, we climb stately dunes. Yellow sand, red light. We glide over velvety sand on our bikes into the depths. Redouan really has what it takes, I think. He surfs in front of me and pulls off long turns. This sand biking almost feels like freeriding on skis or a snowboard in powder snow. Now it's also fun to ride! I tilt the bike into an inclined position. A spray of sand fills the air. "Yeah!" shouts Redouan. We are grateful for this alternative programme. We are happy about the high desert sky and the crazy light, the vastness, the emptiness, the silence.

Hospitality, spending time together - that still counts here in Morocco.

The next night, we swap our motorhome for a Berber village. Even the journey there is an adventure. In a four-wheel drive jeep, we wind our way up narrow hairpin bends, rumble along narrow gravel roads and lurch through muddy puddles. To the side, rocky cliffs plunge hundreds of metres into the abyss. I nudge Christian with my elbow and whisper to him: "That looks promising!" After what feels like half an eternity, we reach a remote mountain village at an altitude of 1,800 metres. Redouan stops the off-road vehicle in front of a mud house. Inside, Said greets us with dark, friendly and warm eyes. We are invited to stay with his family.

In the living room of Said's house there is a wooden bench and a table - that's it. A small gas stove hisses in the kitchen. Said's wife Khadija is making tea. With a wink, the Moroccans call their non-alcoholic, amber-coloured national drink "Berber whisky". Khadija traditionally refines the green tea with fresh mint and sugar. Lots of sugar. A sign of hospitality. Because: little sugar - little friendship, lots of sugar - lots of friendship. Khadija serves homemade flatbread with butter, cheese and olives with the thé vert à la menthe. She calls the shots in the house. In public, however, the women appear reserved. The roles of men and women are clearly divided. We achieved one of the goals of our trip after just a few days: we wanted to get to know people who live a completely different life to us at home, far away from urban civilisation. Showers? "The bathroom is outside because the river flows through the village," says Said and laughs. We laugh too, brush our teeth and slip into our sleeping bags. Good night, Morocco!

How good: a mule hauls the equipment!

Early in the morning, we work our way further up the mountains to a high pass. A mule helps us to hump Christian's heavy camera equipment up the meandering path. What a lugging job! But it's worth it. We look down into the valley, many ridges and small gullies, a donkey track and a wild, unspoilt landscape lie below us.

Here they are, our fairytale trails...

I look over at Redouan, roll towards him on the e-bike and give him a high-five. Let's go! Redouan pedals, I follow his line. The terrain beneath our tyres is great fun. Rocky steps: challenging, but not too rough. Stone fields: exciting, but not too nerve-wracking. Hairpin bends: technical, but not tricky. "Wow!", I shout enthusiastically to Redouan! This is exactly what we were looking for. The trail gets faster and loses itself in the terrain. Now we're hurtling over undulating terrain and ridges of pressed clay. As pristine and remote as the mountain region through which our route leads is, Morocco has developed so progressively in recent years. It is quite possible that the electricity we used to charge our batteries was solar power. Morocco is one of the pioneers in the field of renewable energy, and not just on the African continent. In the global Climate Protection Index 2023, Morocco ranks third behind the role models Denmark and Sweden. Germany is only in 16th place and the proportion of renewable energies in Morocco is set to rise to between 52 and 86 per cent by 2030.

We also feel full of fresh energy. We look for the next downhill line, push our bikes through dips, only to be carried upwards almost weightlessly moments later. Small ridges and gullies alternate like in a rollercoaster. The sandy ground offers good grip. This is big mountain freeriding - technical and flowing at the same time! The donkey trail has long since mutated into a dream trail. I have to pinch myself. Is this a fairy tale or reality? This much is certain - the long journey was worth it.

We reach the next village in the valley. Music blares. Horns trumpet. Horns honk, hands clap. We roll along the road. Whether old or young, woman or man, grandma or grandad - everyone is celebrating like crazy. Even Redouan. He jumps off his bike and leaps into the air. Only now do we realise: Morocco has achieved the impossible. Victory against Portugal at the World Cup. Strangers hug us, Redouan, Christian and I are also in each other's arms. Everyone is jumping and dancing. So are we. Our hosts are in the World Cup semi-finals. And we've actually found the 1001-night trails we've been dreaming of. I hug Redouan again in a frenzy of joy. "Shukran - thank you, Morocco!"

Info Morocco

Journey

A four-hour flight from Munich to Marrakech. Flights are available from around 150 euros. Due to its proximity to the Atlas Mountains, Marrakesh is a good destination airport. Travelling by train: to Tarifa (Spain), ferry to Tangier (Morocco) and then by train or bus to Marrakech. Duration: 2-3 days. If you have enough time, you can also travel by car (ferry Tarifa - Tangier). Four-wheel drive is recommended on remote mountain roads. These roads are often not tarmac.

Accommodation

Morocco is a holiday destination and offers great accommodation in every class at affordable prices. A night in traditional riads is available for as little as 25 to 30 euros per person. Backpackers can stay in budget hostels for as little as 10 euros. Moroccans are very hospitable. Private accommodation is sometimes possible in remote villages. It is best to ask locals or guides. Accommodation tips in Marrakech: Riad Bayti, Riad Dar Yassine

Gastronomy & Nightlife

After sunset, we recommend a trip to Djemaa el Fna Square in Marrakech. There is a colourful hustle and bustle here with jugglers, snake charmers, fortune tellers, artists and musicians. And of course there are also plenty of culinary delights. Couscous and tajine are the most famous traditional dishes. The Guéliz neighbourhood in Marrakech offers a wide range of restaurants and bars.

Guiding

Guided mountain bike tours in the Atlas Mountains are offered by the tour operator Triberg Reisen or the bike guide Andreas Tonelli

Travelling etiquette

Islam is Morocco's official religion. Accordingly, clothing should cover shoulders and knees. Photographing people: always ask beforehand.

Best time to travel

Spring and autumn: From March to May and from September to November, temperatures are mild with little rainfall. The summer months are very hot.