The sun is beating down on the tarmac as we set off on our coast-to-coast adventure. Just two weeks earlier, Alex and I were still at home, looking at our tickets from Berlin to Frankfurt to Orlando. The idea behind it? A round trip in a campervan with folding bikes through a state that many people wouldn’t even consider when planning a cycling holiday. Attractions such as Disney World, the Everglades or the Kennedy Space Centre didn’t make it into our itinerary, however. Our focus lies elsewhere. With our folding bikes, we want to explore the trails in Central Florida, cross the vast pine forests near Ocala, take a break by the crystal-clear freshwater springs in the state parks, and enjoy the mix of wetlands and open countryside.
Kick-off at Tampa Bay
At Terminal C of Orlando Airport, we collect our campervan; after a quick briefing, everything moves along swiftly. We start the engine, set the sat-nav and head for Tampa Bay. The road winds through flat countryside, past palm trees and wide motorways, yet our gaze is already drawn elsewhere: to the paths running alongside it. Our first stop is the Caladesi RV Campground near Palm Harbor, right on the Pinellas Trail. No sooner have we arrived than the wheels are extended. The first ‘short walk’, as is so often the case, turns out to be considerably longer. The Pinellas Trail takes us by surprise. It runs along a disused railway line, like most multi-use paths that are referred to as ‘trails’ in the USA. They are often situated away from road traffic. The trail is a 75-kilometre-long, car-free corridor between St Petersburg and Tarpon Springs. Smooth tarmac, wide paths and clear signage. Nothing here feels improvised; everything is very well thought out. The Pinellas Trail is also the start or finish point of one of Florida’s major future projects: the Coast-to-Coast Connector Trail, or C2C Trail for short. A cycle route that is set to run right across the state, from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean. Many sections already exist and form part of existing trails, which we will be exploring over the next two weeks. Even within the first few kilometres, it becomes clear just how vibrant this route is. Families, commuters, sports enthusiasts – everyone moves at a calm, considerate pace. At junctions, traffic lights regulate the flow of traffic; cars wait. It’s a system that works. Our first ride takes us to Belleair. On the way back, we stop for a break in Dunedin. Sitting on the pier, we enjoy fresh fish at the “Bon Appétit” restaurant, with dolphins dancing right before our eyes. The sun slowly sinks into the sea and, for a moment, everything seems perfectly balanced: movement, nature, tranquillity. Over the next few days, we stay on the Pinellas Trail, because as well as the unique flora and fauna, the palm groves and marshy stretches, there are plenty of charming towns and villages that keep inviting us to linger. Tarpon Springs surprises us with its Greek flair, small harbours and the scent of oregano. Clearwater offers a lively tourist scene, whilst St Petersburg boasts modern architecture and sweeping views of the water. The trail connects all these places like an invisible thread.
Bubbles and gentle giants
On the fourth day, we change scenery. Our stop-off on the way to the Withlacoochee State Trail is Crystal River, also known as the ‘Manatee Capital of the World’. And it’s precisely because of the manatees that we’re here. After a short night’s sleep, we cycle from the campsite to the headquarters of Plantation Adventures. Before sunrise, we’re kitted out with wetsuits, snorkelling gear and a safety briefing. Then it’s off to Three Sisters Springs, a warm spring where the manatees seek shelter during the winter months. We glide from the boat into the water and suddenly find ourselves surrounded by manatees. The large animals move weightlessly, almost silently. It is a quiet, intense moment that stays with you.
Wild, vast, Withlacoochee
Then it’s off again for us. For the next two days, we’re heading to Cove Camping in Iverness, 30 minutes away. Wilderness, seclusion and, just a few minutes’ ride from here, the start of the 74-kilometre-long Withlacoochee State Trail. Here, too, our rides take us along wide paths with hardly any inclines and plenty of nature. Woodlands alternate with open spaces, whilst small villages appear and then disappear again. The cycling becomes steady, almost meditative. A brief detour to Fort Cooper State Park, which lies right on the trail, brings us back to the here and now, despite its fascinating past.
An adrenaline rush over 130 kilometres
Time flies, and before we know it we’re back ‘on the road’ in the campervan, this time heading for Ocala. A new challenge awaits us here: the Santos Trail. It has little in common with a traditional cycle path. 130 kilometres of singletrack wind their way through a vast expanse of terrain. Sand, limestone, roots – technical, demanding, intense. The relaxed, leisurely ride of the past few days suddenly gives way to absolute concentration. The route demands your full attention, but rewards us with a genuine sense of riding. Running right through the middle of the area is also a tarmac cycle path, allowing us to switch to flat terrain at any time. Another reward awaits us afterwards on the way to the Juniper Springs Recreation Area. We stop for a break at the small brewery ‘Flying Boat Tap Room!’. This is where everyone who loves cycling comes together. It’s not a spring for manatees, but for home-brewed beers and delicious lemonades. Afterwards, we arrive at the nature and recreation park in the Ocala National Forest. As well as an overnight stay, we’ve planned a rest here to give our legs a break. Now it’s the arms’ turn. Early in the morning, we set off on a three-hour kayaking trip along Juniper Run, a challenging paddling route through unspoilt countryside. The water is clear, the vegetation dense. Turtles pop up, birds accompany us – and suddenly an alligator, which disappears silently beneath the boat. For a moment, we hold our breath.
Pedals instead of potatoes
In the afternoon, when we arrive in St Augustine in our campervan, everything is back: our breath and our voices. The oldest city in the USA feels like a complete change of scene for us. Nature and seclusion give way to ancient walls, narrow alleyways and history on every corner. But here, too, the bike remains our gateway to everything. On the firm sandy beach of Anastasia Beach, we cycle right alongside the Atlantic, accompanied by the wind and the steady sound of the waves. Another trail awaits us on day two. We cycle out of the city and into the countryside to Hastings, Florida’s potato capital. Our route takes us along the Palatka-to-St Augustine Trail. This, in turn, forms part of the St Johns River-to-Sea Loop, which feeds into the C2C Trail. This interconnection shows just how closely the individual trails have now merged. The result is a network of cycle paths that is greater than the sum of its parts.
Water, Roots, Well-being
It feels as though our time at each of our stops has been far too short. After just under 48 hours by the Atlantic, we now find ourselves at the entrance to our final stop, Blue Spring State Park in West Volusia. Here, we’re not just saying goodbye from the shore to the ‘Floaty Potatoes’ – as the locals affectionately call the manatees that frolic in the park’s warm springs. Here, we’re also setting off on our final leg along the Spring-to-Spring Trail, which is also a key part of the St Johns River-to-Sea Loop. The trail takes us through parks, small towns and along quiet paths to DeLeon Springs State Park, with the ‘Old Sugar Mill’ as our destination. Could a tour end any better than with delicious coffee and the best pancakes in North America, freshly baked at the table? As the saying goes, you should stop whilst you’re ahead. So here we are, sitting in the campervan, on our way to Orlando Airport. Two weeks, many kilometres and one clear realisation to take home with us: Florida’s getting there! With impressive consistency, the Sunshine State is developing into a cycling destination. The trails are there – many already connected, others under construction. And that’s precisely what makes it so appealing right now: being out and about here whilst something great is taking shape all around you.
The cycle trails in Florida
Coast-to-Coast Trail (C2C)
The Florida Coast-to-Coast Trail (C2C) is a long-distance cycle and multi-purpose path, approximately 400 kilometres long, which crosses the state of Florida from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean. The route runs from St Petersburg/Clearwater on the Gulf Coast to Titusville on the Atlantic Coast. The trail is regarded as one of the largest continuous cycle route projects in the USA and is constantly being extended to ensure a continuous, unbroken route.
St John’s River to Sea Loop
The St. Johns River to Sea Loop is a circular cycle route in Florida, approximately 420 kilometres long. The route connects the St. Johns River with the Atlantic coast (‘Sea’) and passes through varied landscapes such as coastal stretches, forests, small towns and nature reserves. It combines several existing cycle paths and quiet roads to form a large loop. The loop typically starts in the DeLand area and passes through Daytona Beach, amongst other places, before following the river back inland. The route is predominantly flat, accessible all year round and is aimed primarily at touring cyclists and long-distance cyclists.
Pinellas Trail
The Fred Marquis Pinellas Trail is a fully tarmac-surfaced, car-free multi-purpose path on the west coast of the US state of Florida, in Pinellas County. It was built on a former railway line and is now one of the longest urban cycle and leisure paths in the United States. The route is a 120-kilometre circular trail running from Tarpon Springs via Clearwater to St Petersburg and back again. The Pinellas Trail is completely separated from motor traffic and features numerous access points, rest areas and facilities along its length.
The GPS data is available for a fee on the DK Tour Portal:
At this point, you will find external content that complements the article. You can display and hide it with a click.
Tips and general information on a road trip through Florida
Getting here
There are direct flights from Germany to Orlando, particularly from Frankfurt am Main, for example with Lufthansa (some of which are seasonal or subject to the flight schedule)
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Central Florida is from November to April, as the weather is pleasantly warm, relatively dry and there are far fewer mosquitoes.
Things to See & Specials
Anastasia State Park: A 1,600-hectare nature reserve, popular for its unspoilt beaches, tidal salt marshes and maritime forests. The highlight is a cycle ride along the wide, white sandy beach. 30 Anastasia Park Rd, St Augustine, FL
Plantation Adventure Centre and Manatee Tours: Swimming with manatees, kayaking tours through Kings Bay, etc. 9301 W Fort Island Trail, Crystal River, FL 34429, www.plantationadventurecenter.com
Clearwater Marine Aquarium: Marine Life Research and Education Centre, open to visitors, 249 Winward Passage, Clearwater, FL 33767
Kayak trip on the Rainbow River: Kayak tour in transparent boats offering views of the underwater world and the springs of the Rainbow River, 9435 SW 190th Avenue Road, Dunnellon, FL 34432
St Augustine Lighthouse and Maritime Museum: Climb the lighthouse with its 219 steps. Fantastic views over St Augustine and the coast. Visit to the old lighthouse keeper’s house, an exhibition on the history and development of the shrimp industry, and a maritime exhibition, 100 Red Cox Rd, St Augustine, FL
Castillo de San Marcos: The castle complex is designated a National Monument and is regarded as one of the landmarks of North America’s oldest city. Built between 1672 and 1691, the fortress served to protect the city from pirates and British invasion, 1 Castillo Drive, St Augustine, FL
Juniper Run Kayak Tour: A pristine paddling route through crystal-clear water and dense subtropical vegetation. Considered one of the top 25 canoeing and kayaking routes in the USA. Not suitable for complete beginners, Juniper Springs Recreation Area 26701 FL-40, Silver Springs, FL 34488
Campsites / Motorhome Parks
- Caladesi RV Park 205 Dempsey Rd, Palm Harbor, FL 34683
- The Cove Resort 1242 S Cove Camp Point, Inverness, FL 34450
- Juniper Springs Recreation Area 26701 FL-40, Silver Springs, FL 34488
- North Beach Camp Resort 4125 Coastal Hwy, St Augustine, FL 32084
- Blue Spring State Park Campsite 2100 W French Ave, Orange City, FL 32763
Food
Dunedin: ‘Bon Appetit’ restaurant Dinner with a view of the sunset over the Gulf of Mexico in the restaurant: a selection of seafood, as well as meat dishes
Editor’s tip: Floral City: Pudgee’s Eatery and Market Excellent American burgers and hot dogs
Ocala: Flying Boat Tap Room Homemade craft beer, as well as lemonades and hearty meals
De Leon Springs: Old Sugar Mill Pancake House The best pancakes in North America, freshly cooked at your table.
Crystal River: Waterfront Social Views across Kings Bay – perfect in the evening with the sunset – a selection of meat and fish dishes; recommendation: grouper sandwich
The Cove Resort: Cove Pub Typical American atmosphere (sports bar), a selection of beers and hearty meals
St Augustine: Aunt Kate’s by the Water (just behind the North Beach Camp Resort) The best seafood, including Mediterranean-style dishes, and a beautiful sunset
St. Augustine Seafood & Co. Seafood prepared quickly, easily and deliciously, right in the city centre
Information / Travel Guide
- www.visitcentralflorida.org
- www.visitflorida.com
The authors’ conclusion
“Our two-week road trip through Central Florida in a campervan with a folding bike was a real eye-opener: the Sunshine State is so much more than just Disney World or the Keys! Away from the usual tourist trails, we discovered a completely new side to Florida. We were particularly impressed by the perfectly maintained cycle paths, some of which led us into unspoilt wilderness – something we hadn’t expected at all. A real adventure that commands respect. For safety reasons – or, to be more precise, because of the potentially dangerous wildlife, including alligators and snakes – we were only allowed to cycle certain sections during daylight hours. The combination of a campervan and a folding bike was perfect for this two-week journey of discovery.” Nadine Pahling and Alex Hüfner
