Cycle tour Greece - To the end of the world
Where the southernmost tip of land sinks into the sea and nothing can be seen between the water and the sky, the world must have come to an end. The Hellenes believed that this was the entrance to the underworld. For his last and most dangerous heroic deed, Heracles descended into Hades and defeated the three-headed hellhound Kerberos, the guardian of the realm of the dead. Heracles had done his work.
As we stand on this windswept piece of land at the southernmost end of the Greek mainland and gaze out to sea, we are only halfway through "our work". The starting point for the circumnavigation of the Máni, the middle "finger" of the Peloponnese, is the modern city of Kalamáta. The first stage is the hardest and longest of the whole journey.
You have to overcome the mighty Taygetos massif. An impressive 38-kilometre road climbs over the pass to an altitude of 1300 metres. The grilled lamb in the "I Theotókos" tavern in the village of Artemísia makes up for the effort. Even though we almost miss the historic ghost town on the rapid descent down into the fertile Evrótas basin, we don't want to miss a visit to the Byzantine village of Mystrá with its ruined monasteries.
From Sparta, the journey alternates between picturesque plateaus and fragrant orange groves, ending just before the coast. We roll past the rusty wreck of the Dimitrios towards the picturesque and lively harbour town of Gýthio. With every kilometre along the east coast of the Máni, the landscape becomes more archaic and lonely. More and more often we see the typical defence towers on the mountain slopes. Even in ancient times, displaced and persecuted people settled on the Máni.
Lighthouses and fish by the sea
Pirates also used the inaccessible retreat as an operational area. And so, in late Byzantine times, a kind of clan aristocracy developed with many feuds and centuries of blood feuds. The pyrgi, sometimes standing alone, sometimes grouped into small villages, were an expression of power and served to protect the clans. By the time we finally roll down into the small bay of Pórto Kágio, we have a few difficult climbs from sea level into stony mountain nests behind us.
We stay in the dreamy fishing village for three nights. We enjoy freshly caught fish directly on the beach, swim in crystal-clear water and walk across the headland to a small chapel with a fantastic sea view. A cycle trip to Cape Ténaro is of course a must.
After a half-hour walk to the lighthouse at the southernmost point of the Greek mainland and a visit to a Hellenistic floor mosaic and the oracle sanctuary of Poseidon, we look forward to a delicious dinner in Pórto Kágio on the way back.
Well rested and with the sun now behind us, we slowly work our way up the somewhat flatter western side to the north. The harsh beauty is mesmerising. The view of the famous tower village of Váthia in front of the bare mountain ranges is unrivalled. The western Máni in particular is richly decorated with Byzantine churches and chapels. It is almost impossible to visit them all, but you should take a look at the ones along the way. Many are locked, but there is usually someone on hand with a key and some information.
Cycling holiday Greece - Directly on the beach
The locals are delighted with the interest shown by tourists. Between the coastal towns, the road often runs a little inland, but sea views are guaranteed at all times. Even though there is hardly any traffic here, we are impressed by a specially built cycle path between Ágios Nikólaos and Stoýpa, which runs directly along the sea.
The scent of wild sage is everywhere. A small café with a beautiful garden invites you to linger. Gradually, the vegetation becomes more lush again. We enjoy the evening in Kardamýli before the last major stage.
Nice little shops invite you to take a stroll and a little culture with a visit to the old neighbourhood is also allowed. Once again, a long climb up the flank of Profitis Ilias, at 2407 metres the highest peak in the Peloponnese, demands our last reserves. On the descent through ancient, beautiful olive groves, we can already see our destination of Kalamáta on the horizon in the distance.
Cycling holiday Greece - General information
A challenging round trip from Kalamáta over the mighty Taygetos mountains to Sparta and through the fertile Evrótas plain to the sea. From Gýthio, the route follows the east coast up and down to the southern tip of the Máni to Cape Ténaro. On the west side, head north again, sometimes high above the cliffs, over the barren ridges of the Máni, passing ruined defence towers and Byzantine churches. Often directly by the sea through picturesque fishing villages back to Kalamáta.
Route
Kalamáta - Mystrá - Sparta - Geráki - Skála - Gýthio - Kamáres - Kótronas - Lágia - Pórto Kágio - Cape Ténaro - Váthia - Geroliménas - Pýrgos Diroú - Areópoli - Agios Demetrios - Agios Nikólaos - Stoýpa - Kardamýli - Doloi - Kitries - Kalamáta
Arrival and return journey
Flight
In the summer months there are direct flights from several German airports to Kalamáta. In the winter months you have to fly via Athens.
Ferry
If you are travelling by car, you can take the ferry from Venice or Ancona to Patras.
>> TipThe Greek travel agency Linos Travel, based in Igoumenitsa. A quick call (they speak German) and the very friendly staff will find the best connection at top prices.
Tel. +30 26650-24187 or -23493
Worth seeing
>> Mystrá Byzantine ruined city with its many monastery churches and chapels on the steep slope of the Taygetos massif.
>> Sparta with its ancient acropolis, the Archaeological Museum and, just outside the city, the Menelaion, the ancient memorial dedicated to King Menelaus and his wife Helen.
>> Gýthio with its neoclassical harbour front and good fish tavernas. A few kilometres north of the town lies the impressive wreck of the Dimitrios.
>> Cape Ténaro The lighthouse on the windswept southern tip of the Máni can only be reached on foot in half an hour.
>> Váthia The picturesque fortified tower village on the barren foothills of the Taygetos is being restored and slowly brought back to life.
>> Pýrgos Diroú The Glyfáda dripstone cave, one of Greece's greatest natural wonders, can be visited on a boat trip.
>> Kardamýli Nice shops and cafés invite you to linger. Starting point for many hikes in the Taygetos mountains.
Four tours through one of the most unique and exotic cultural landscapes in Europe.
Accommodation tip
You can find good accommodation in almost every town in the Máni. We particularly liked the Guesthouse Psamathous in Pórto Kágio. The small hotel is built in the Maniot style with great attention to detail. Each room is unique. www.portokayio.gr
Literature and maps
Dumont Travel Paperback "Peloponnese", 296 pages, 18.95 euros.
Dumont art travel guide "Peloponnese", 352 pages, 25.90 euros.
Anavasi topographical road map, 1:200,000 "Peloponnese", 11.90 euros
(practical because all place names are shown in Greek and Latin script).
>> Tip! Often there are books, travel guides used but in good condition, cheap to order on the Internet (medimops.com / rebuy.de)
Information
Greek National Tourist Board, Directorate for Germany,
Phone +49 (0)69 257827-0, info@visitgreece.com.de,
www.visitgreece.gr
