British Columbia MTB Travel GuideEverything you need to know about the Holy Land of Freeriding

Laurin Lehner

 · 03.05.2024

Gypsy life: Photographer Moritz Ablinger after the obligatory dip in the lake after the ride. Moritz's outdoor advice: "Get mosquito spray locally, European products are hardly effective here."
Photo: Peter Kaiser
Since the early 2000s, we European freeriders have been confronted with images from British Columbia. Whether in films, photos or magazines, the spot is omnipresent. If you still have B.C. on your to-do list, you should read on, because we have compiled all the insider tips & hacks for you.

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This is where the roots of freeriding are, this is where it all began: Freeride pioneers Wade Simmons, Brett Tippie and Richie Schley carved down gravel slopes in British Columbia at the end of the 1990s and invented the new bike discipline of freeriding along the way. Epicentre: the area around perhaps the most famous bike park in the world - Whistler. The bike park operators in the famous ski resort quickly recognised what gravity mountain bikers wanted. No matter how hard European bike parks tried, they were unable to copy the magical mix of thrills, risk and flow. Until well into the 2000s, Europe was considered a freeride wasteland, and we Euro freeriders had no choice but to look enviously across the pond and dream of impressions from films such as Kranked, New World Disorder or Seasons. In the meantime, there are also freeride spots in Europe that are causing the fun barometer to skyrocket in a similar way to British Columbia. Nevertheless, many European B.C. fans claim that once you've been to Whistler, you don't want to ride here again. According to the motto: Don't go there in the first place, you won't have any fun here afterwards. If you still want to go and see for yourself, you'll find all the answers to your questions here. And not just about the bike park in Whistler.

Peter Kaiser swings his Trek Session over dirt jumps on Vancouver Island. Find the best B.C. trails with the Trailforks app.Photo: Moritz AblingerPeter Kaiser swings his Trek Session over dirt jumps on Vancouver Island. Find the best B.C. trails with the Trailforks app.

Info: British Columbia

The province on the west coast of Canada stretches over 7000 kilometres of coastline. Around 5 million people (and just as many black bears) live in the province, making up around 15 per cent of all Canadians. British Columbia borders the US state of Alaska to the north-west and the province of Alberta to the east. The time difference is minus seven hours.

Overview of the most important bike destinations in British Columbia, Canada.Photo: RupadesignOverview of the most important bike destinations in British Columbia, Canada.

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Travelling time

May to October is the best time to visit British Columbia. We recommend June, early July or from the end of August, as the trails in the Whistler Bike Park are usually in good shape then. You also avoid the hustle and bustle during the Crankworx festival. Autumn - or Indian summer, as the Americans call it - can be particularly sunny in British Columbia.

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Dopamine supplier: The jumps in Whistler and the Coast Gravity Park (photo) are spectacular without being really dangerous. A big bike guarantees an extra dose of safety, but a powerful freerider will do just as well.Photo: Moritz AblingerDopamine supplier: The jumps in Whistler and the Coast Gravity Park (photo) are spectacular without being really dangerous. A big bike guarantees an extra dose of safety, but a powerful freerider will do just as well.

The journey

Flight prices to Vancouver have risen in recent years. As always, the earlier you book, the cheaper. Direct flights from Frankfurt are available from 750 euros (without bike transport). Flight duration: approx. ten hours. Professional cyclist Kathi Kuypers advises: "Flights with stopovers increase the risk of losing your bike bag and bike. This has happened to me many times," says Kathi. At Lufthansa, taking your bike with you currently costs a whopping 250 euros each way! It's cheaper with British Airways (€80 each way), but 23 kilos with bike and bike bag is not enough. (Be sure to book your luggage online). Alternatively, you can also fly to Seattle (USA), the flights (e.g. with American Airlines) are slightly cheaper, and the bike transport and car hire prices are also lower here. It's a three-hour drive across the border to Vancouver. Crossing the border can take some time, but is usually straightforward.

Airlines really charge for sports luggage. That's why we recommend only one bike instead of two, like Peter Kaiser. Ideally, a solid freerider that can be pedalled with confidence.Photo: Moritz AblingerAirlines really charge for sports luggage. That's why we recommend only one bike instead of two, like Peter Kaiser. Ideally, a solid freerider that can be pedalled with confidence.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Whistler is very expensive, especially during the season. You pay Swiss prices here, even in the restaurant or bike shop. Accommodation prices in Squamish, Pemberton, Kamloops or Vancouver Island are generally cheaper (Airbnb). If you are planning a bike trip, there is no getting around hiring a car. Make sure there is enough space, stay away from pick-ups, as bikes can be stolen from the back in no time at all. If you want to save money but are prepared to make sacrifices in terms of comfort, you can use Trick 17, like Peter Kaiser and photographer Moritz Ablinger. They hired a removal van from the company U-Haul. Advantage: There is enough space for luggage, bikes and sleeping mats, and the price is more than half that of a hire car of a similar size. Disadvantage: You have to be a Canadian resident to be able to pick up these U-Haul vehicles outside of opening hours. Peter Kaiser: "It's best to book online, provide a hotel or Airbnb address and a Canadian telephone number. Important: international driving licence. Be sure to apply in good time. Costs: 16 euros. The effort is worth it. At so-called RV camping spots, such as in Squamish, Kamloops etc., you can stay overnight for around 35 dollars and have access to a kitchenette, toilets and showers. Buying and selling cars is only worthwhile after several months (there are special FB groups for this). Car registration is very easy online and unbureaucratic. Good to know: Parking your car in Whistler to stay overnight is prohibited and will be checked; there are hefty fines.

Hire car? No, Peter Kaiser tours British Columbia in a moving van. "Much cheaper", Peter knows after many trips through the Holy Land of freeriding.Photo: Moritz AblingerHire car? No, Peter Kaiser tours British Columbia in a moving van. "Much cheaper", Peter knows after many trips through the Holy Land of freeriding.

Itinerary

When planning your itinerary, take a look at the map and make a list of the places you want to visit so that you don't spend too much time behind the wheel. You should plan no less than ten days for your B.C. trip.

A possible route could look like this:
First Vancouver Island, the ferry is only 15 minutes from the airport. Here there is a varied trail network for all skill levels. Then on to the Sunshine Coast, where the Coast Gravity Park awaits with numerous trails for all skill levels, not just for cracks. There is no lift here, but there are shuttle buses. Recommended length of stay for the first two stops: four days. Next stop: Squamish. This is enduro country. You have to pedal the trails yourself. "The place to be for enduro riders", says Peter Kaiser. There are optional shuttle rides. Recommended length of stay: two days. The Whistler Bike Park is 45 minutes away by car. You should stay here for at least three days. The park has cult status with many jump trails but also epic rides such as "Top of the World" - unfortunately very crowded and expensive. Pemberton is 30 minutes away by car - not a must, but definitely worth a visit. It's worth hiring a local guide here. There is no lift here either, but a trail network with lots of fun enduro and singletrack trails. We continue on to Kamloops. A treat for stunt cracks in particular. The climate changes here and it is very dry. The stunts are tough and many of the spots are familiar from films and photos. Above the bike ranch, however, there are also epic single trails for beginners and advanced riders. There is no lift here either. Ambitious freeriders should invest at least two days to master the stunts. From here, the Silverstar and Sunpeaks bike parks can be reached in one to two hours by car. Both parks are worth a visit and offer alpine terrain as well as jump routes, enduro trails and freeride routes.

Insider tip: The cars of the removal company U-Haul.Photo: Moritz AblingerInsider tip: The cars of the removal company U-Haul.

Which bike?

When it came to choosing a bike, all the tips were unanimous: you want a solid bike that can also be pedalled. Ideally, a freerider or a robust and potent enduro bike (with downhill tyres). With a big bike, you are dependent on shuttle buses away from the Whistler, Sunpeaks or Silverstar bike parks.

Tip provider Kathi Kuypers from Rosenheim knows most of the spots. "As well as biking, there's also freeride history to marvel at here, such as the Jah Drop, which you can see from the motorway towards Squamish. Or spots in Kamloops.Photo: Moritz AblingerTip provider Kathi Kuypers from Rosenheim knows most of the spots. "As well as biking, there's also freeride history to marvel at here, such as the Jah Drop, which you can see from the motorway towards Squamish. Or spots in Kamloops.

Save properly

Take common wear parts with you: Tyres, brake pads, inner tubes, shift eyes, cables, etc. In Whistler in particular, tyres and the like cost several times more than here in Europe. Eating out is expensive, cooking in a flat or on a camping cooker is cheaper. If you're spending more than two days in the park, you should definitely check the lift ticket offers, as there are special season pass offers for five days or more that can save you money. If you buy your lift ticket at the ticket office, you will pay more. So it's better to buy online.

Savings tip for longer stays: Pack a gas cooker, buy pasta and pesto - cook it yourself.Photo: Moritz AblingerSavings tip for longer stays: Pack a gas cooker, buy pasta and pesto - cook it yourself.

Saving the wrong amount

Yes, the day pass at the bike park is expensive at around 80 Canadian dollars (€55), but it's well worth the money. Anyone travelling to British Columbia and skipping the bike park in Whistler will regret it. We therefore recommend spending at least two days at the bike park. We and our experts can only advise against B.C. trips of less than seven days. By the way: International health insurance is mandatory! Read the small print of your insurance policy carefully and make sure that it includes the most important benefits. An X-ray alone can cost several thousand Canadian dollars.

Whistler mania: If you've been to B.C., you must have been there. Our favourite descent in the bike park: Freightrain to Dirt Merchant to lower A-Line.Photo: Moritz AblingerWhistler mania: If you've been to B.C., you must have been there. Our favourite descent in the bike park: Freightrain to Dirt Merchant to lower A-Line.

Inland

Nelson, Retallack, Kelowna, Revelstoke. These names are familiar to many freeriders. For those who already know the spots on the Sunshine Coast, Vancouver Island etc., a trip inland is an option.

Advice from the bike pros and B.C. experts

Vancouver-Island - what was the question? The best trails I've ever ridden are here. It's worth going on a discovery tour and tracking down hidden trails. The trails are wet and loamy. Whistler is cool but way too crowded. Brage Vestavik, brutal freerider
Brage Vestavik, brutal freerider.Photo: Red BullBrage Vestavik, brutal freerider.
I've been there eight times. September was my favourite month. Plan a road trip, three days in Whistler is enough. The lakes around it are amazing. Insider tip: Hippie Lake. You pay Swiss prices in Whistler, even for bike parts. Take enough spares with you. By the way: If you fold down the bar in the lift, you'll come out as Jerry. - Kathi Kuypers, professional biker
Kathi Kuypers flies to B.C. almost every year and knows the hacks.Photo: Veranstalter / KohligrafieKathi Kuypers flies to B.C. almost every year and knows the hacks.
Vancouver Island is the 'place to be' - but you need time. The Trailforks app is your friend. Chat to the locals, they'll show you hidden trail gems. If you want to save money, take a gas cooker with you and eat pasta with red sauce. - Peter Kaiser, freeride pro
Peter Kaiser from Innsbruck.Photo: Moritz AblingerPeter Kaiser from Innsbruck.
The park in Whistler is an eye-opener. Yes, it's expensive and yes, it's crowded, especially during the Crankworx festival. But the park runs are benchmark and actually make you a better freerider. I felt the same way back then. I experienced a real skill boost. - Andi Wittmann, ex-professional biker
Andi Wittmann, ex-professional bikerPhoto: Markus GreberAndi Wittmann, ex-professional biker
My tips 1. go before the Crankworx week in July, then you can expect tracks in top condition. 2) Take an enduro bike with you. 3) Ride not only the trails in the park, but also those around it. 4) Talk to the locals, they are super open and will show you hidden trails. - Korbi Engstler, Web-Shredder
Korbi Engstler, Web-ShredderPhoto: Janik SteinerKorbi Engstler, Web-Shredder
If you've never been to Whistler, you absolutely have to go. If you've already been there, you should explore other spots that are less crowded. I spent two months in Squamish without having to ride a trail twice. Enduro riders will find countless fun trails here. A must. - Professional biker Steffi Marth
Professional biker Steffi MarthPhoto: Steffi MarthProfessional biker Steffi Marth

Born in South Baden, Laurin Lehner is, by his own admission, a lousy racer. Maybe that's why he is fascinated by creative, playful biking. What counts for him is not how fast you get from A to B, but what happens in between. Lehner writes reports, interviews scene celebrities and tests products and bikes - preferably those with a lot of suspension travel.

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