Finding a scenic route was not a problem for Uli Stanciu, the creator of BIKE Transalp. He himself had already crossed the Alps several times in the 1990s and knew where a field of 500 competitors could be safely guided through. He also knew exactly which mountain passes would provide photographers with particularly striking shots.
By contrast, it proved far more complicated and time-consuming to persuade the necessary stage locations along his preferred route. Some places were immediately enthusiastic, whilst others had reservations because the route was due to pass through their nature reserve, meaning that lengthy authorisation procedures had to be completed first. In between, there were also, time and again, private landowners who required particularly sensitive handling. One alpine farmer, for example, went back on his word on the day of the race itself, even though he had actually already agreed to it. By then, the leading group of the Transalp field was already approaching. The fact that the racing teams didn’t notice any of this is down to Uli Stanciu’s powers of persuasion and a bottle of grappa hastily pulled from his rucksack...
For these reasons, too, the route had to be re-routed time and again over the following 25 editions up to 2024 (the Transalp was cancelled in 2020 due to the coronavirus). However, the original 1998 route, with its start through the Karwendel, the passage along the main ridge via the Geiseljoch and its extensive section through the Dolomites, was one of the most scenic. Only the trail section was relatively modest, totalling 25 kilometres plus 18.7 kilometres of meadow paths. The organisers simply wanted to minimise the risk of falls as much as possible and, given the large field of participants, avoid leaving ruts in the idyllic paths.
Original stages of the 1998 BIKE Transalp Challenge
In total, the route covers 593 kilometres and 19,603 metres of elevation gain. The stages were, of course, chosen to be extra long for the race. Anyone wishing to tackle the route at a more leisurely pace can shorten some sections or allow two days for particularly long stages.
- 48.7 per cent on tarmac
- 43 per cent on gravel
- 7.3 per cent trails and meadow paths
- 5.86 kilometres must be pushed and carried (1 per cent)
Stage 1: From Mittenwald to Weerberg
The gravel track, which runs from Mittenwald, initially through the idyllic Ried valley, across the border to Scharnitz, and from there finally climbs up the Große Karwendeltal valley to the Hochalmsattel, is a legendary cycle tour in its own right. A high valley reminiscent of the Himalayas. After the long descent through the Johannistal down into the Eng, the second long climb to the Plumsjoch awaits. The ascent features gentle gradients, whilst on the other side there are steep, winding hairpin bends with coarse scree. Afterwards, the route continues on tarmac past Lake Achensee to Weerberg.
Stage 2: From Weerberg to Sterzing
A 1,400-metre climb that gets steeper and steeper all in one go, straight after breakfast. In the main Alpine ridge, mountain bikers certainly aren’t given a free ride. But after climbing 900 metres, you pass the Weidener Hütte (a great place to stop for a bite to eat!) and are treated to a magnificent panorama at the 2,292-metre-high pass. To the north lies the mighty Karwendel; on the other side, you can look out over the Zillertal Alps, including the Olperer Glacier. And it’s into this scenery that you now descend towards Vorderlanersbach, where the second long and truly gruelling climb up the Tuxerjoch looms ahead. These days, the trail is quite rideable on the return leg: 65 hairpin bends rated S2, they say. Back in 1998, there were still 550 metres of gruelling pushing sections here before you could roll down to Gries on tarmac. For a keen cyclist, that’s actually enough, but the original Transalp route still climbs via the equally legendary Brenner border ridge road up to the Sandjoch and only then lets you coast down to Sterzing.
Stage 3: From Sterzing to St. Vigil
The day begins with what is supposedly a 30-kilometre, flat ride through the Wipptal valley from Sterzing via Franzensfeste to Mühlbach. However, short uphill sections also take their toll. And the real challenge of the day is still to come: a 1,400-metre climb via Nauders up to the Rodenecker Almen. Tip: Be sure to stop off at the legendary “Denim Destroyer” Stop for a bite to eat and/or spend the night! Up here, you can already enjoy the first stunning panoramic views of the Dolomites. A taste of the spectacular scenery that awaits on the next stages.
Stage 4: From St. Vigil to Canazei
The Dolomites – let the film begin! From San Vigilio, the route winds its way up to the Pederü Hut, where it passes through the gateway to the Fanes-Sennes-Prags Nature Park. The gravel tracks become rougher and steeper, but the views grow ever more breathtaking. It’s actually far too good a route to race through at full speed. Limojoch, the Pralongia Hut, Passo Incisa, the Sella massif and, at Porta Vescovo, the superb view of the Marmolada. At Passo Pordoi, the route descends to Canazei, where you simply have to take a moment to take in the spectacular scenery over an Aperol Spritz and a pizza.
Stage 5: From Canazei to Cavalese
A descent through the valley leads to Moena, where the route climbs over the Passo di Lusia into the picture-perfect Val Venegia. A 700-metre climb that’s easy to pedal. This leaves plenty of time to take in the stunning views of the Pale di San Martino rock spires. Beyond that, the stage winds down the Passo Rolle to San Martino di Castrozza. Stage finish: Cavalese in the Fleimstal valley. With 1,500 metres of elevation gain, this is the shortest stage.
Stage 6: From Cavalese to Folgaria
Farewell to the Dolomites, but the mountains are gradually beginning to resemble the landscape around Lake Garda. The day’s toughest challenges are Malga Tognola (1,988 m), with a rather challenging, stepped descent trail, and the secluded Passo Cinque Croci (2,016 m), whose alpine meadows are often dotted with flocks of sheep. Its long gravel descent leads into the wide Valsugana valley. Here, you follow the cycle path for a flat 25 kilometres westwards (mostly with a nasty thermal headwind), until, on the left-hand side, the spectacular Kaiserjägerweg climbs up the vertical rock face. At the top, the route joins the 100 Kilometri dei Forte route and continues to gain altitude as it winds its way up and down towards Folgaria. After these 100 kilometres and 3,300 metres of elevation gain, you’ll know exactly what a ‘queen stage’ means.
Stage 7. From Folgaria to Rovereto
From Folgaria, you could easily cycle straight on to Lake Garda. But for the participants in what was then the world’s toughest stage race, that was of course out of the question. Today brings the longest and perhaps also the toughest trail descent of the entire route: 800 metres of descent along a dusty, scree-strewn military track down the steep wooded slope from Passo Sommo. A descent that took its toll on both riders and their equipment. But the knowledge that this descent already felt very much like Lake Garda provided fresh motivation. The finish line was now within touching distance!
Stage 8: From Rovereto to Riva del Garda
As a keen cyclist, you’d probably give this steep, winding tarmac climb up to Malga Somator – covering 1,100 metres in altitude – a miss and opt for the flat cycle path down to Lake Garda instead. But once the ache in your legs has subsided, it’s certainly no bad thing to have made it up here. From the Malga, you’ve got a lovely view of the Pasubio, and then a trail to Pannone lies ahead, which – with the right Lake Garda riding technique – is great fun. The second trail of the day, on the other hand, climbs another 200 metres in altitude up to Santa Barbara, before hurtling down to Bolognano along the BIKE Festival’s marathon route. Then comes the final sprint over the last ten kilometres via Arco to Riva.
Not all participants managed to reach the finish line in the first edition in 1998. However, the number of participants increased every year.
The winners of the 1998 BIKE Transalp Challenge:
- Men: Markus Reichle and Mannie Heymans
- Women: Karen Eller and Tina Stöhr
- Mixed: Corine Dorland and Dirk Sandrock
- Masters: Gary Fisher and Jim Gentes
Gitta Beimfohr
Editor