The 3 best MTB tours in the Alps

Gitta Beimfohr

 · 23.02.2017

The 3 best MTB tours in the AlpsPhoto: David Schultheiß
The 3 best MTB tours in the Alps
The window of opportunity for high mountain tours is short. We asked three touring pros which tour they will tackle first in the Alps as soon as the last snow has melted from the passes.


You can download the GPS data for the three high-altitude tours in Ötztal, Karwendel and the Dolomites free of charge in the download area below this article.


1. from the head of the Ötztal valley over the glacier to the Similaun hut and back again the next morning via the Schnalstal valley. A high alpine tour with two absolute dream trails. (photo above)

I love being in Ötztal because it's so easy to get there and you're right in the middle of the real high mountains - with trails that are definitely rideable. And although this route is by no means unknown, I've never met another biker.

The start is at the end of the valley in the mountaineering village of Vent, which is already at 1890 metres. Up to the Martin-Busch-Hütte at an altitude of 2500 metres, you crank up a lonely cart track and can measure the metres in altitude by your breathing, which slowly becomes more difficult. But the 3000 metre panorama grows all around you. The overnight destination, the Similaun hut on the border with South Tyrol, sits enthroned at an altitude of 3019 metres. To get there, you follow a drive-push-carry passage including glacier snowfields, which you have to cross at the end. But it's manageable - especially when you know that a really great hut with the best food, sun terrace and conservatory with a view of the Ortler awaits not far away.

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I've been up there five times now and am usually the only biker among all the mountaineers who set off on their tours at the crack of dawn. When the hikers come back at around 10 a.m., I set off on one of the best downhill trails in the Alps. The first 300 metres in altitude are still technical, but then it's smooth and fast. That's what I mean: it's sensational to be able to ride so high up in the mountains without having to be a professional. You don't have to agonise over countless key sections, you just shoot through the bottom. The turquoise blue Vernagt reservoir shines up at you, which you never lose sight of during the entire 1300 metre descent. From there, you cycle for a good hour to Kurzras, the last village in the Schnalstal valley above Meran. The next destination is the Rifugio Bellavista. You can either fight your way up the steep road for 800 metres - or ask nicely at the gondola if you can go up by bike. From the hut, you can really see the whole valley and large parts of the descent. The latter has a few counter-climbs and some tricky sections up to the Hochjochhospiz. But then the rollercoaster: a rock-free path, perfectly trodden by the many hikers - who are no longer out and about at this time of day. A final dream trail on this absolute dream tour.

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  High tour Ötztal - RatingPhoto: BIKE Magazin High tour Ötztal - Rating

Fabian Gleitsmann first visited the Similaun hut as a 13-year-old - albeit on foot. 20 years later, the Ötztal is his favourite biking adventure playground.

  Fabian GleitsmannPhoto: Privatfoto Fabian Gleitsmann


2. even in the Karwendel you can still discover adventure land off the beaten track. You just have to put in a little more effort. For example, the carrying on the Wilde-Bande-Steig.

  Even in the Karwendel you can still discover adventure land off the beaten track. You just have to put in a little more effort. For example, the carrying on the Wilde-Bande-Steig.Photo: Christoph Malin Even in the Karwendel you can still discover adventure land off the beaten track. You just have to put in a little more effort. For example, the carrying on the Wilde-Bande-Steig.

Discovering the unknown - for me, these are the best tours. Many people make the choice of route too complicated. They look for the highlight with a big name - picture-book stuff. They then pile up on such routes, while sensational experiences await in the neighbourhood, quite unspectacularly. One of my absolute favourites is this tour in the Karwendel. The scenery ranges from beautiful to magical. However, it also includes a longer pushing section - and this is exactly what makes the route such a special overall experience for me.

The start is in Scharnitz. From here, the route leads up to the Pfeishütte at the end of the Samertal. The route is by no means unknown, although most bikers are travelling on completely different routes here. The cute Pfeishütte at an altitude of just under 2000 metres is run by a lovely couple and would be my recommendation for an overnight stay. They cook excellent food and you can just tell that they make an incredible effort and care about the hut, nature and their guests. Up to this point, everything is idyllic, and the ascent to the Stempeljoch the next day is also great. But from there, you have to push the Wilde-Bande-Steig to the Lafatscherjoch, although this is not a horrendous climb in terms of fitness. The path is more or less flat and not extremely exposed. It's just too bumpy to ride.

From the Lafatscherjoch, you then follow an initially easy, then somewhat tricky trail down to the Hallerangeralm - and for me, this is one of the most beautiful places in the Karwendel or in the Alps in general. There is a small chapel up ahead. There are only a few places that are magical for me, where everything is just right - and one of them is right here. You could also spend the night in the Hallerangerhaus. Then you just roll out to Scharnitz via the Kastenalm. I can recommend this two-day tour to any slightly ambitious biker, despite the pushing section. As a result, you often discover completely new aspects, especially in familiar terrain, and turn your standard routes into a special adventure experience. The harvest here is a wonderful, huge tour through the Karwendel.

  High tour Karwendel - RatingPhoto: BIKE Magazin High tour Karwendel - Rating

Lutz Scheffer lives in Garmisch-Partenkirchen and has been developing bikes for Canyon as an industrial designer since the brand was founded. He does this both in the office and on the mountain.

  Lutz SchefferPhoto: Daniel Simon Lutz Scheffer


3rd Dolomites Weekend Forcella Ambrizzola, Nuvolau hut, Cinque Torri, Porta Vescovo and Passo di Crepe Rosse - more sporting and scenic highlights are not possible in two days.

  Dolomites weekend: Forcella Ambrizzola, Nuvolau hut, Cinque Torri, Porta Vescovo and Passo di Crepe Rosse - more sporting and scenic highlights are not possible in two days.Photo: Matthias Marschner Dolomites weekend: Forcella Ambrizzola, Nuvolau hut, Cinque Torri, Porta Vescovo and Passo di Crepe Rosse - more sporting and scenic highlights are not possible in two days.

"If you manage to get me up there under my own steam one day," said the aristocratic German, visibly marked by illness, to his mountain guide in Cortina d'Ampezzo, "then we'll build a mountain hut right up there. And I'll pay half of what it costs". He looked longingly towards Cinque Torri and the striking peak to the left. And: one day he stood at the top, had beaten tuberculosis and honoured his promise. And so, to this day, the Rifugio Nuvolau sits enthroned between Civetta and Tofana with a staggering 360-degree view. It is the oldest mountain hut in the Dolomites. Simple and cosy. Unfortunately, there is no water for showers, but there is good, simple food, and nowhere tastes better than on this panoramic terrace.

The overnight stay at the magical Nuvolau hut crowns a very mature two-day singletrail tour. It starts in Alleghe, which is still a little touristy (and that's exactly what I like here). The gondola takes you up to the Col de Baldi, and then the Dolomite highlights come together on this tour: the Forcella Ambrizzola, the famous Transalp pass the other way round, including a three-part pushing and carrying section. Freshly made casunzei in the hut on the beautiful Croda da Lago mountain lake, views of the mundane scenery around Cortina, the notorious steep ramps between the Cinque Torri (which are now only for four) and the Rifugio Averau. If you want to save energy here, you can save a good 400 metres in altitude with the Cinque Torri lift. The route continues along the marmot trail with constant ups and downs to Arabba and another 900 metres in altitude up to Porta Vescovo by cable car. This is where the much better Bindelweg trail starts from Porta Vescovo over to Rifugio Padon. At the Passo di Crepe Rosse, you imagine yourself to be in total solitude, but you have to reckon with snarling marmots. The tour ends with a super flowing descent and a craft-brewed beer in Alleghe. And all this in the "most beautiful mountains in the world" (says Reinhold Messner, and he's not always right, but here he is). Descents are almost always on narrow paths and trails that are fun and rarely too technical. The odd cable car helps on the way up.

  High tour Dolomites - RatingPhoto: BIKE Magazin High tour Dolomites - Rating

As head of the TrailXperience bike school, Mathias Marschner is often on tour in the Dolomites with groups. But that doesn't stop him from biking there on his own - on the contrary.

  Mathias MarschnerPhoto: Privatfoto Mathias Marschner

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Gitta Beimfohr joined the BIKE travel resort during her tourism studies when the Strada delle 52 Gallerie on the Pasubio was closed to mountain bikers. Since Gitta crossed the Alps twice at racing speed, she has favoured multi-day tours - by MTB in the Alps or by gravel bike through the German low mountain ranges.

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