Admittedly, we have some reservations when we set off for Lisbon on our bikes. We wanted to explore the city of seven hills by folding bike. Of course, we did some research beforehand. An insider gave us the tip of using e-folding bikes for the planned exploratory tours.
Will we be able to use them to immerse ourselves in this lively and colourful city, which is also characterised by climbs and historic alleyways, and experience it in a completely new way? Whether fascinating street art, the best pastries in Portugal or the famous landmarks and sights, Lisbon has a lot to offer. We won't know whether all of this can really be experienced by bike until the end of our trip.
Old town flair and the first "hill"
We start the first day at the famous Praça do Comércio, a magnificent square directly on the banks of the Tagus, surrounded by elegant arcades and crowned by the imposing equestrian statue of King José I. Directly in front of the square, with a view of the water, we stop for our first photo stop at the Cais das Colunas.
The pier was named after the two columns that protrude from the Tagus to the left and right of its marble staircase. The entire ensemble is considered the gateway to Lisbon and is an iconic landmark. An extremely impressive foretaste of the viewpoints that we will visit in the coming days.
But when we then turn into the Alfama neighbourhood, things really get going. The first "hill" rears up in front of us. Narrow, cobbled streets wind their way uphill and lead us through Lisbon's oldest neighbourhood. The inclines are tough, but with e-assistance we manage to manoeuvre our folding bikes through the narrow streets of the old town.
The bikes make the climbs easier, but we still get off the bike and push a few metres. Alfama is even better experienced while strolling than cycling through. Here, in the heart of the city, you can see the original Lisbon. The neighbourhood is characterised by closely packed houses, winding alleyways and the colourful azulejos, the typical tiles that adorn the facades of the buildings.
The streets here hum to the melancholy sounds of Fado and we discover a new photo motif around every corner. It's worth mentioning that the climbs cannot only be done by bike or on foot.
Tram line 28, which runs through Alfama to Graça, is an extremely attractive way of travelling. The "28" is a real cultural asset and winds its way through the steepest streets of Lisbon. For a brief moment, we allow ourselves the luxury of boarding the railway for the last stretch up the hill. We quickly fold up the bikes.
Once we reach the top, we are rewarded: the view from the Miradouro de Santa Luzia is simply spectacular. We overlook the red roofs of Alfama all the way to the glistening Tagus. The view from the nearby Miradouro das Portas do Sol is just as overwhelming. From here, too, you can overlook the entire old town and see the river in all its splendour.
After conquering the first adventurous climbs of the day, we have earned some refreshments. For dinner, we opt for authentic Portuguese cuisine and stop off at the "Martinho da Arcada". It is the oldest restaurant in Portugal and is located exactly where we waited this morning for our Tour at the Praca do Comercio. The head waiters, classically dressed in long aprons, white shirts and black waistcoats, serve us their famous vegetable soup and freshly caught bacalhau. A real treat for the palate!
Street art and the sweetest sin in town
Our second day takes us first to the creative neighbourhood of Alcântara. It only takes a few steps through the LX Factory and we feel transported to a parallel world full of bright colours and street art. The LX Factory is a huge area of old factory buildings that now serves as a playground for creative people and artists. We stroll past small shops, studios and cafés. Every wall in the area is adorned with graffiti and murals.
It feels as if the whole area is a single work of art. After an inspiring tour of the grounds, we treat ourselves to a cappuccino in the "Wish Slow Coffee House", a charming café with delicious pastries and coffee specialities.
We then get back on our bikes, as today's destination is officially Belém. On the way there, we discover the latest achievements in the expansion of the cycling infrastructure. A cycle path that can be used on both sides leads directly along the riverbank to the famous suburb, which can also be used directly from the centre of Lisbon.
Belém itself is known for two things: its historic buildings and the best pastéis de nata, the famous puff pastry tarts. Pastéis de Belém are legendary and have been baked according to a secret recipe since the 19th century. Crunchy on the outside, warm and creamy on the inside, they're a treat! As the afternoon has already begun, we treat ourselves to a slice straight away.
We are actually quite full, but we take some of these tempting cakes with us for the way back. No wonder the queue in front of the bakery never stops, but here we are happy to wait. But it's not just the pastéis de nata, but also the impressive testimonies to the history of discovery that invite us to linger in Belem.
From the bakery, our gaze falls on the imposing Jerónimos Monastery, a masterpiece of Manueline architecture. Monks once lived here and prayed for the sailors. The Torre de Belém, which we head for next, is a no less impressive building from the time of the great Portuguese discoveries.
Modern art & fresh breeze
The last 24 hours in Portugal are drawing to a close and we have planned a detour to the Atlantic coast before our return flight. But first we treat ourselves to an art programme and ride our folding bikes to MAAT, the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology, an impressive building that combines futuristic design and cultural creativity.
Once again, we use the well-maintained cycle path along the Tagus. The curved, gleaming building right on the water is already looming in front of us. A marvellous contrast to the historical landmarks we have seen over the last few days. Exciting exhibitions await us inside. Art that deals with technology and society. We would describe the MAAT as an absolute insider tip. It shows its visitors the modern side of Portugal.
After visiting the museum, we get back on our bikes. Once again we head to Belém. But this time not for the delicious cakes, but to get on the train from here to Cascais. We take the train for safety reasons, as there is currently no official cycle path to the Atlantic. The excursion site alone is worth a visit, but we cycle a little further. The GPS leads us directly to the developed cycle path, which leads from the centre of the holiday paradise to the beaches outside the town.
A fresh breeze is blowing around our ears out here. But it has to be that way, because we are travelling to the famous surfing hotspots. The sea air makes you hungry! But the restaurants we find along the coast all offer food and drinks at a higher price level. So we hold out until we get back to Lisbon.
To round off our tour, we return to Alfama. In the fado restaurant "Casa de Linhares", one of the best restaurants in the city, we not only enjoy outstanding cuisine, but also listen to the melancholy sounds of traditional singing. For us, the perfect end to a short cycling adventure.
Lisbon and its surroundings surprised and inspired us at the same time. Whether it was the street art, the sweet pastéis de Belém or the beautiful view over the Tagus. Steep climbs, tram tracks, cobblestones and the traffic in the city also demanded a high level of attentiveness.
Not all of the viewpoints and excursion destinations were easy to reach by bike. But in combination with the tram, train or on foot, each of the exploratory tours became a little adventure.
Two cycle tours in Lisbon: description & GPS data
Tour 1: Cycling along the Tagus
Route information: Circular tour approx. 19 km long, flat.
From Belém to Pink Street: The circular tour starts at Praça do Comércio and runs along the River Tagus towards the MAAT Museum. It then continues to Belem for a culinary stopover. The next stop is the Torre de Belém, which is also the turning point of the tour. The return journey largely follows the same route until the turn-off to the LX Factory - perfect for an aperitif in the afternoon. The route then leads through the colourful Pink Street with its many bars and restaurants before returning to the starting point.
The GPS data can be downloaded from the DK tour portal
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Tour 2: From Lisbon to Cascais
Route information: Circular tour approx. 20 km long, flat, you have to expect a headwind on the Atlantic.
By train and bike along the Atlantic coast: The tour starts in Lisbon at Cais do Sodré, from where the train takes you to Cascais, a picturesque coastal town, in around 45 minutes. From Cascais, the route follows a well-maintained cycle path along the Atlantic beaches, past idyllic landscapes with impressive sea views.
Tip: Take provisions with you, as the restaurants on the beaches are often very expensive.
The GPS data can be downloaded from the DK tour portal
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Info & tips for your city trip to Lisbon
Arrival
From Berlin: Daily direct flights, flight time approx. 3.5 hours.
Best time to travel
Spring and autumn (March-May, September-October); pleasant climate, fewer tourists
Worth seeing
Praça do Comércio: Historic, spacious square on the banks of the Tagus with magnificent arcades and the triumphal arch Arco da Rua Augusta. Formerly used as a reception area for kings, it is now a popular meeting place and symbolises the reconstruction after the earthquake of 1755.
Cais das Colunas: Two iconic marble columns that lead directly into the water. They once marked the entrance to the city for royal guests. The location is ideal for enjoying the sun over the Tagus and soaking up Lisbon's maritime atmosphere.
LX Factory: Former industrial area that is now a trendy place for creative people and artists. In addition to original shops and hip cafés, the LX Factory impresses with its large-scale street art, graffiti and regular markets and events.
Pastéis de Belém: Probably the most famous puff pastry tarts in Portugal. The original recipe has been kept secret in this traditional bakery since 1837. Crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside, the pastéis attract visitors every day who want to savour the freshly baked delicacies.
Torre de Belém: A landmark of Lisbon and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was built as a defence fortress on the banks of the Tagus. The tower symbolises Portugal's history of discovery and impresses with its ornate Manueline architecture and decorative details.
MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology): With its modern, curved shape, the museum looks like a wave on the Tagus. It houses innovative exhibitions that combine art and technology and offers an impressive view of the city and the river from the roof.
Bike hire
Bike.POP: Av. de Madrid 7D Friendly, small bike shop specialising in folding bikes. Hire possible on request.
Bikeiberia: Largo Corpo Santo 5 Hire of high-quality city bikes and e-bikes from 20 euros per day/bike. www.bikeiberia.com
GIRA: by far the largest provider of rental bikes in Lisbon, provides numerous rental stations throughout the city. The Gira app allows users to hire bikes easily and conveniently. The app can be used to find nearby Gira stations, check the availability of e-bikes and classic bikes and unlock a bike directly via smartphone. A day pass costs 10 euros www.lissabon.org/transportmittel/leihfahrraeder
Overnight stay
22 Places is a German travel blog that focuses on city breaks and also offers accommodation suggestions www.22places.de/lissabon-uebernachten-hotel-tipps/
Info and travel guide
Visit Lisboa: The city's official tourism website offers comprehensive information on sights, events and gastronomic recommendations. www.visitlisboa.com
22places: A travel blog with personal recommendations and in-depth articles about Lisbon, including photo tips, insider tips and lesser-known sights. www.22places.de/lissabon
Food and drink
Grupeto Bike Café, CAIS, Rua de S. Paulo 178, a meeting point for cyclists and coffee lovers. It combines a cosy café atmosphere with bike service and accessories - ideal for a break before or after a tour.
The bar "A Ginjinha"Largo São Domingos 8, a bar known for its sweet cherry liqueur and a popular meeting place in the city centre.
Martinho da Arcada, Praça do Comercio, 3 The oldest restaurant in the city (1782) and a favourite for traditional Portuguese cuisine. It was once a meeting place for Portugal's famous poets and thinkers, including Fernando Pessoa.
Casa de Linhares, Beco dos Armazéns do Linho 2 Famous fado restaurant with historical flair. Here you can enjoy traditional Portuguese cuisine and authentic fado music in a unique ambience.
Organiser
Baja Bikes: Offers a 4-hour highlights tour with experienced guides. www.bajabikes.eu
GetYourGuide: Lists various cycle tours in Lisbon that can be booked online. www.getyourguide.de/lissabon-l42
Eurobike: Organises cycle tours from Lisbon along the Algarve to Sagres. www.eurobike.at
MYBIKE tip: Excursions by bike & train (Lisbon & Cascais)
The local trains in Lisbon offer direct connections to the popular excursion destinations of Cascais and Sintra. A return ticket (Lisbon & Cascais) costs 4.90 euros per person. Bicycles are carried free of charge. Access to the platform is via automatic security gates. At each station there is a special, wider access point through which bicycles can be carried.
