"The condition of the bikes is sometimes really lousy," says Peter Brodschelm, experienced Transalp guide. "It's not even just the older bikes that cause problems, but also poorly assembled new bikes that go on their maiden voyage," he adds from years of experience. Whether old or new, you should always test ride the bike extensively before the Transalp. This also applies if the bike has just been serviced and has been fitted with some new spare parts. Problems can often occur with the brakes and drivetrain in particular. Correct running-in and possibly readjustment can work wonders.
In addition to tyre defects, overheated brakes are one of the most common causes of breakdowns when crossing the Alps. Brodschelm therefore recommends stable tyres with a tubeless setup (next page) and the use of large brake discs in any case. "Stability always comes before weight when crossing the Alps," is his maxim. Lightweight cross-country tyres are allergic to gravel and sharp stones.
The adjustment of the riding position can also make the difference between good and bad. The combination of long periods in the saddle and a heavy rucksack can lead to back and knee problems. The correct saddle position and the correct adjustment of the shoe cleats are therefore essential. If you have back problems, the position of the rucksack can also have a major influence and should be varied if you are in pain.
Avoiding breakdowns through good preparation is one thing. But in the event of a breakdown, you should have a minimum of spare parts with you. On the following page, we have compiled the most important spare parts for the Alpine tour. If you pack a spare derailleur hanger in addition to the obligatory mini-tool and pump, you should be prepared for most cases.
1 Disc brakes
If the pads are only one millimetre thick, you should change them before the tour. Before setting off, however, it is essential to brake properly, because only then will the brakes decelerate reliably and you will not be surprised by sudden fading on the first steep descent. If the pressure point of the brake feels spongy or the brake fluid is old, it is better to change the fluid and bleed it. Align the brakes to prevent noise.
2 Drive
The condition of the chain can be quickly assessed using a chain gauge. When changing the chain, be sure to check whether the new chain still harmonises with the old cassette and chainrings. The chain can slip quickly, especially on steep climbs and under heavy loads. If this is the case, the cassette and chainrings must also be replaced. Take the opportunity to check the function of the gears and adjust them if necessary.
3 Suspension fork and damper
Do the suspension fork and shock still respond smoothly? Are the stanchions free of scratches or damage? Is there any play in the bushings when the front brake is applied and the bike is moved forwards and backwards or lifted by the saddle? If there are any abnormalities, it is better to take the bike to a service centre or carry out a small service yourself (www.bike-magazin.de: Webcode #30779 Fox, #30783 Rockshox). Take care of it early enough so that fork and shock are fit in time.
4 Lowerable seat post
Especially for technical descents, the dropper post is unavoidable and provides enough room for manoeuvre when the heavy rucksack is also sitting on the back of your neck and pushing. However, hydraulic stabilisers in particular sometimes cause problems. Does the support drop unintentionally or does it only work very slowly? Then a service is also advisable here. Small problems can be solved by yourself: This is how the Service on the Rock Shox Reverb. Otherwise: get it done.
5 Impellers
Bearings and spokes are the neuralgic points on the wheel. The bearing play of the hubs can be determined when installed by wobbling from side to side. The ease of movement of the bearings can only be checked when they are removed by turning them with your finger. If there is play or rough running, replace or adjust the bearings if possible. In addition, check spoke tension by pressing two neighbouring spokes and check concentricity. If necessary, tighten and re-centre.
6 Rear wheel bearings
Depending on the rear suspension system, at least two to more than ten bearings are used on a fully. Check whether there is play and where by wiggling the rear wheel sideways or lifting the saddle. The ease of movement of the bearings can only be assessed by removing the rear shock. Without the shock, the rear triangle should compress and rebound easily and without jerking. If the rear triangle runs roughly, often only a few bearings are affected. Off to the service centre.
7 Tax rate
Headset play or heavy running can also spoil the tour. The easiest way to determine the play is to pull the front brake and push the bike back and forth on the handlebars. Caution: Play can also come from the brake pads in the brake calliper (normal) or the fork bushings. If there is play in the headset, the bearing must be readjusted. In the case of rough or heavy running, only replacing the affected bearings will help.
8 MTB tyres
Many punctures can be avoided from the outset if damage is detected at an early stage. Therefore, check the tyre for possible weak points. Cracks and cuts on the tread or a chafed sidewall can lead to a defect. If the tyre is really old and the rubber has already hardened (cracking), you should also invest in a new tyre for more grip. Tip: Tubeless tyres roll more easily and safely.
Tyres are number one in the MTB puncture statistics. If you make the right choice beforehand, you will cross the Alps much more relaxed. When crossing the Alps, it is important to find the best compromise between rolling and puncture protection.
1. coarse at the front, fine at the back
The majority of the system weight is on the rear wheel. Rolling resistance at the rear is therefore particularly important. A smart combination is to ride a tyre with an open profile and grippy rubber compound at the front and a faster rolling, finer-profiled tyre at the rear. Example: Schwalbe Fat Albert Front (Soft Compound) and Nobby Nic (Speed Grip Compound).
2. not less than 2.25 inches
Wide tyres not only roll better off-road, but can also be ridden with less air due to their larger volume, which means more comfort and traction. In addition
puncture protection is better due to the larger volume. Nobody should ride across the Alps on tyres smaller than 2.25 inches. The ideal tyres are 2.35- / 2.4-inch tyres on correspondingly wide rims.
3. not too light
Even wide tyres can have a carcass that is too thin and offer little protection against sharp-edged stones and debris. If you are carrying a lot of weight and frequently ride flat tyres, you should look for tyre models with a reinforced sidewall and additional puncture protection (apex). Puncture protection is particularly important on the rear wheel.
Pros and cons of tubeless
PRO - Peter Nilges, BIKE Head of Test and Technology
The advantages of a tyre with a tubeless setup are obvious: slightly less weight, better rolling characteristics and puncture protection for smaller holes such as thorns. If the hole is too big for the latex milk in the tyre, you can always quickly insert a tyre plug (see picture below) from the outside into the tyre and seal the hole very well without having to insert an inner tube. I'm happy to accept the extra effort involved in fitting the tyre. Use at least 100 millilitres of milk per tyre.
CONTRA - Stefan Frey, BIKE Editor Test and Technology
The advantages of tubeless tyres are all well and good, but they are always associated with more mess due to the latex milk. Anyone doing the assembly for the first time knows what I'm talking about. And at the latest when the hole is too big and only a tube can help, you have the milk sticking to your fingers again and have to pour the rest of the broth away. What's more, sealing the rim with adhesive tape is also quite cumbersome and somehow no longer state of the art.
Small breakdown service: This belongs in the Transalp rucksack!
A mini-tool, tyre and shock pump are mandatory and can be divided up perfectly if there are several participants in the group. In addition, a spare inner tube, puncture repair kit and, if necessary, a tubeless repair kit (e.g. Maxalami) should always be in your rucksack. A chain lock for the corresponding chain as well as brake pads and possibly a spare derailleur hanger are among the bike-specific spare parts that are difficult to find on tour. The same applies to suitable spare spokes. With a few cable ties and a long shoelace, some problems can be provisionally fixed. Oil and rags keep the chain supple.
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