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Bike packer Wiebke Lühmann spent 14 months in the saddle on her last trip across Africa. So she must know which material can withstand wind, weather, potholes, mud and sandstorms. We asked her about her personal bike set-up.
Robust, comfortable and puncture-resistant: Wiebke chose a hardtail with a relaxed, upright riding position for the Africa tour. Even though she would certainly have preferred the comfort of a full-suspension bike on some of the corrugated tracks through the desert, a fault on a complicated suspension/rear triangle would have meant the end of the tour in Africa due to a lack of replacement material.
The wheels should also be as robust as possible and not necessarily made of carbon. Wiebke's aluminium wheels are designed for e-MTBs and withstood desert corrugated metal, mud ruts and potholes. The tubeless tyres also proved to be a good idea. At some point, she felt that the spare inner tubes packed for safety were unnecessary ballast and sent them (along with other superfluous items) home by post.
Why not simply mount a luggage rack and hang classic panniers on it? Because the heavy weight at the rear would massively impair the handling of the bike. By distributing the luggage, on the other hand, the bike remains manoeuvrable and sporty. If you (like Wiebke) decide in favour of large fork bags on a very long tour, you should stow as light things as possible in them. Heavy items such as tools, wash kit, lock and spare tubes are best placed in the centre of the frame bag. However, the items must not bulge out of the bag, otherwise your legs will rub against it when pedalling.
Bikepacking bags are now available from many manufacturers in many sizes and shapes. A typical basic set consists of a handlebar bag, frame bag and saddle bag ("arse rocket"). This allows a packing volume of between 25 and 40 litres. It's best to try out which bag you put what in, but it is advisable to define themes for each bag so that you don't always have to search through everything for certain items. Things that you definitely don't want to get wet in the rain should also be packed in bags.
It's not really part of the classic bikepacking kit, but a lightweight daypack (possibly with a hydration bladder) could be the solution for transporting groceries to the sleeping spot you haven't found yet?
Two bottle cages with side access are highly recommended. Even if a bottle only fits on the dirt-splattered down tube.
Packing everything correctly for a long stage tour is more art than science, says Wiebke Lühmann. The best things are those that are light and small and ideally even have two areas of use.
Whether for 3 days or several weeks: The basic luggage is the same for all bikepacking tours and hardly differs from standard transalpine luggage:
1. nothing is more annoying than things that you lug around with you and rarely need when you're travelling. Bikepacking pro Wiebke Lühmann, for example, sends things like this again per Mail home. Your complete packing lists for Africa and Norway: wiebkeluehmann.com
2. Rescue blankets don't just keep you warm in an emergency. They also provide great insulation - instead of or under your sleeping mat!
3. one Gauze nappy for babies is suitable as a scarf, possibly as a support bandage and also as a towel.
4. "Shower chunks" (soap bar for skin, hair and clothes) and Toothbrush tabs reduce the pack size of the hygiene articles enormously.
5. "Spork": Fork and spoon in one: Even if you set off without cookware - its moment of use will come.
6. Flip Flops For the evening, you almost intuitively clamp it under the tensioning straps of the arse rocket. Problem: in the evening there will only be one shoe left... Make sure you secure it separately!
7 Incidentally, this happens frequently and is incredibly annoying at the storage location: Forget the cooking water for the pasta.

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