Val Müstair (also known as Münstertal) lies between Vinschgau, the Ofen Pass and the Umbrail and Stilfserjoch passes in the south and, with the 2763 metre-high Piz Chavalatsch, marks the easternmost tip of the Swiss canton of Graubünden. Travellers crossing the Alps are particularly familiar with the Val Mora region. The high valley awaits behind the Pass da Costainas and is one of the classic Transalp passages. It is worth spending a few extra days in Val Müstair. Smugglers once created a dense network of paths here across the border to South Tyrol, which is now ideal for mountain biking. And although the valley has been part of the UNESCO Engiadina Val Müstair Biosphere Reserve since 2017, the hiking trails here are also officially trail-sharing. The trails themselves are maintained by the local mountain bike community led by Sergio Tschenett, but without changing the natural character of the trails. Together with the Lower Engadine and Samnaun, a large network of trails is to be created in the future. Enduro biker Steffi Marth rode the three best trail tours in Val Müstairs and came within a hair's breadth of her limits on Piz Chavalatsch (Tour 3). But the great panoramic experience was worth the increased adrenalin level.
The 3 top tours in Val Müstair
Bikers in Val Müstair owe the dense network of trails to very dedicated smugglers who smuggled cigarettes across the South Tyrolean border until the 1960s.
Tour 1: Munt de la Bescha
- Length: 36.7 kilometres
- Uphill: 1220 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
- Key sections: The steep mountain path behind the Alp da Munt (push). The bumpy, stony path through Valbella is doable with medium riding technique. From the Ofenpass: Roots!
Tour description:
If you don't fancy the long climb, you can be shuttled up to Alp da Munt (2213 m) and start from there. Then there are still around 300 metres of climbing to do yourself. From Sta. Maria, follow the valley side roads uphill via the villages of Fuldera and Tschierv until the road branches off to the right towards the Minschuns ski area. Shortly before Alp da Munt, the surface changes to gravel, and from the junction in the direction of Valbella, finally to a high mountain path, which starts steeply but then flattens out (ibex and bearded vulture territory!). At an altitude of 2520 metres, the ascent is complete and the long trail descent can begin. The high mountain basin of Valbella really lives up to its name, especially when the first Swiss stone pines sprout from the barren ground. There's a short hustle and bustle at the Ofen Pass, then it's a fun ride back to Sta. Maria on trails parallel to the pass road.
Tour 2: Alp Champatsch
- Length: 28.5 kilometres
- Uphill: 909 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
- Key sections: Small steps and roots await you from time to time on the descent, but nothing wild!
Tour description:
The high-altitude trail on this side winds up and down through lush alpine meadows past the beautiful Lai da Juata and on to the sun-drenched plateau of Alp Champatsch. After a refreshment stop, you return to the valley on the home trails of the locals. On the way to the village of Lü, you are very likely to meet Alpine crossers coming down from the Pass da Costainas on their way south. The trail itself is a dream: mostly flowing, it first runs along the slope, then plunges into the Swiss stone pine and larch forest to take the first bends. Soon, stone slabs and roots are mixed into the otherwise soft forest floor, so concentration should not be lost. The tarmac transfers in the valley villages provide short breather breaks before the route continues down to Sta. Maria behind the houses in typical forest trail and serpentine mode.
Tour 3: Piz Chavalatsch
- Length: 24.8 kilometres
- Uphill: 821 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 2330 metres in depth
- Difficulty: very difficult
- Key sections: Shortly after the Furkelhütte, you have to push your bike for about 500 metres. For the ridge path at the top, you should have a head for heights and be confident on loose scree. The descent back into Val Müstair is also rocky and extremely steep at the top.
Tour description:
The Goldsee Trail for advanced riders: Like the classic tour, this adventure tour starts early in the morning at the Stilfserjoch (start before 9 a.m. or after 4 p.m.). You fight your way up 85 metres in altitude on the gravel ramp to the Dreisprachenspitze and then follow the initially gentle, later blocked path that cuts through the mountain flank on the South Tyrolean side down to the Furkelhütte. Shortly after the hut, the tour branches off from the Goldseesteig in the direction of Piz Chavalatsch. For around two hours, you push and carry your bike 600 metres up the slope. Just before the summit, it's worth taking a break at a small lake before you take the last few steps and can't get your mouth shut because of the 360-degree view: the peaks of the Vinschgau Valley, Engadin and Ortler massif are all around you! And straight ahead is the highlight of the day: the long descent over the ridge to the Rifairscharte and then a really steep climb back over the Swiss border into Val Müstair. From an altitude of 2764 metres down to 1250 metres. From the Rifair Alm, the trail changes to forest floor, with some tricky, steep sections - but everything is still fun.
Info Val Müstair
Arrival
Val Müstair can be reached from the north via the Vinschgau Valley (Taufers) or from the Engadine via the Ofen Pass. From the south via the Passo Umbrail. Travelling by train and subsequent bus connection is possible, but inconvenient.
Overnight stay
There are two beautiful campsites in the valley:
Müstair: Camping Muglin, 65 pitches on the meadow of a former farm. With free sauna in the hayloft, camping cabins for hire and bistro. Prices: WoMo 12 CHF plus 13.50 CHF per person and night (24 euros), season: 30.4.-30.10.22, campingmuglin.ch
Sta. Maria: Pè da Munt, small pitch in the larch forest, at the foot of the Umbrail Pass. Prices: WoMo from 14 CHF plus 11 CHF per person/night. Season: 25.5.-2.10.22, campingstamaria.ch
Tips in Sta. Maria: B & B Alpina, B&B from 69 euros per night, myalpina.ch and B & B Villa Stelvio with flats and family rooms in a 100-year-old house with a barbecue in the garden. Price B&B from 136 CHF (130 Euro), villastelvio.com
Bike shop
The Bike Patcher - Owner Sergio is a mechanical engineer and grew up in his father's bike shop. He enjoys making customised headset designs. Palü Daint 111, Müstair, ridelaval.com
Guided tours / camps
The girls and boys from Ride La Val are all passionate bikers who have been travelling the trails of their home country for many years. They not only show their guests cross-border tours, but also teach them the necessary riding technique. ridelaval.com
Bike shuttle
There is no cable car transport in Val Müstair. If you want to be at the Stilfserjoch at eight o'clock in the morning because of the time limit for bikers, either take the Postbus (start at approx. 7 a.m. in Sta. Maria) or book a shuttle with Romex Transport, tel. 0041/79/2854545, romex-transport.ch
Val Müstair area highlights
In Val Müstair, the focus is on tradition and sustainability. You won't find fairgrounds with bouncy castles and noisy après bars here. But you will find organic farmers, happy cows, goats and sheep in the meadows and nature-loving hikers and bikers sharing the mountain trails.
Convent of St John: Twelve nuns still live in this convent, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The museum shows life within the 1200-year-old walls, which are decorated with frescoes. muestair.ch
Smallest Whisky Bar on Earth: The smallest whisky bar in the world is located in Sta. Maria, according to the Guinness Book of Records 2007. Lord Gunter Sommer not only stores 300 different varieties here, but also maintains a small museum, swboe.com
Engadine nut cake: There are two excellent addresses for this Grisons speciality, which is ideal as a bar substitute in terms of calorie content: Bäckerei und Konditorei Meier-Beck in Sta. Maria (also rye bread for the Hirsch-Salsiz-Jause!) and Bäckerei Caterina Bott in Müstair. Both use mainly local ingredients.
Download area guide and GPS data
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