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Report Stoneman Glaciara with the E-MTB
The battery indicator flashes red, and the ascent never seems to end. Why is the last checkpoint so remote on the Moosfluh? According to the route map, this is simply an extra loop, seemingly arbitrarily added to the route, as superfluous as a chain break. In any case, it's a tough squiggle that pushes our batteries close to the zero per cent mark - what on earth is this drudgery after over 4000 metres in altitude? The answer is simple: Stoneman founder Roland Stauder knows his trade. He knows that the climb is worth every watt-hour and every drop of sweat. On the Moosfluh, the view widens out over the Aletsch Glacier, the largest of these cracked ice tongues in the entire Alpine arc. What a goosebump moment to experience this gigantic carpet of ice in the sunset light. The fact that the e-bike battery is practically empty suddenly becomes just as unimportant as the last stamp from a little machine somewhere up here, which is supposed to officially certify our longest touring day of the season.
127 kilometres and 4700 vertical metres in just one day
But back to the start, and a few days further to the left in the timeline. To where the decision has matured: we want to conquer the 127 kilometres and 4700 metres of altitude difference of the Stoneman Glaciara in one day with just one e-bike battery. Even for us, that's a bit of a challenge, and that's exactly why we want to go for it. We are Nathalie Schneitter and Joris Ryf, both from Switzerland and both bronze medallists at the 2022 E-Mountainbike World Championships, so we have the fitness and experience for such an endeavour. But - as we have also learnt in racing - a clever plan is just as important.
Perfect battery management on the e-mountainbike is essential for the Stoneman Glaciara
Battery management is the be-all and end-all of a project like this. The start and finish points as well as the stops for recharging en route are absolutely central, because the days are short and we can't spend hours hanging around at every socket to top up the battery. The less we charge and the better we plan, the greater the chances of completing the tour even on a short autumn day. As competitive athletes, we already know how many watts per hour Joris and I can pedal. The result of the meticulous planning phase: we choose Mörel as our starting point and receive the starter pack for the Stoneman Trail at the hotel on the evening before the start.
In the big surprise package we also find the most important piece of the puzzle for an officially successful Stoneman: the stamp card.
It will accompany us through the tour and ultimately provide proof that we have completed the entire tour. The map has to be clicked off at six checkpoints so that we can receive the Stoneman trophy at the end. Not exactly a world championship medal, but somehow the stamping gives our adventure a kind of overriding sense of purpose.
There's one last team meeting at dinner before we go to bed for a short night - a kind of racing routine, although it's actually "just" supposed to be an adventure. Once a racer, always a racer, once learnt, always learnt. The marching schedule calls for the start at exactly 5.40am. It's September and the days are already shorter than the time we need. And last but not least, we want to soak up all the splendour of the mountains in the saddle before the snow covers the 2400 metre high crossings for six months. The early start also has the aim of experiencing the sunrise on the Breithorn. The hotel has kindly prepared breakfast for us, but apart from coffee and a small roll with lots of Nutella, neither of us manages to get anything down. Slightly nervous, we swing into the saddle in the icy, humid air.
The longest climb: The second day of the Stoneman Glaciara challenges us and our E-MTBs with 1650 metres of climbing
The lap starts with 1650 metres of ascent in one go. It is the longest climb of the day, which alone would require a battery charge. That's why we see it as a warm-up programme for us and push on in eco mode towards the slowly waking sky. Only at the very top, when the horizon is already getting alarmingly bright, do we switch up a gear and invest some battery, because otherwise we might miss the natural spectacle. If it's possible, then it's possible!
At 2444 metres above sea level, you can't blame the rising autumn sun for being aesthetically pleasing, but it doesn't warm you up. At the Breithorn checkpoint, a biting cold wind blows against us, making our hands stiff and our movements slow. Hypothermic amazement, brief glances over raised tube scarves. I struggle to get my stamp card out of the outer compartment of my rucksack, but taking off my gloves is definitely out of the question. Click-click: the first of six stamps on the Stoneman Glaciara is immortalised on the red and white card.
Stoneman Glaciara: The cold is giving us a hard time
The descent into the Binntal valley feels like sliding through a freezer. We have to take a break twice to warm up again by hopping. The trail section of the descent is minimal. Is that a good thing? Undecided. On the one hand, our bodies, which are stiff from the cold, are not flexible enough right now, on the other hand, a bit more action would be better for our blood circulation than the tear-inducing wind. Which is good in any case: A breakfast with plenty of hot drinks and calories awaits us at the Ofenhorn restaurant. The Nutella roll we ate this morning is now hardly medically detectable. The batteries are also soon feeling better: we had set ourselves the goal of reaching the checkpoint in the restaurant with a 50 per cent battery charge. Experience has shown that a 90-minute break is enough to boost the 750-watt-hour tanks back up to 75 per cent charge. Exactly the amount of time we need to thoroughly graze the breakfast buffet.
Just as the sun illuminates the bottom of the valley, we set off again in Binntal. At around 10.30 a.m. it finally warms up noticeably and we can at least take off our windbreakers and winter gloves. We head up the valley along the Rhône towards Obergoms. The section of the route is not that spectacular, but the constant ups and downs are a welcome change for our already tired legs. Although we had calculated the delicate balance between our own contribution and the power of the motor precisely for long distances, while the battery in the socket regenerates to the minute, our bio-two-cylinders gradually decrease with the duration of the load ... But we are still perfectly on schedule. Our battery management is also still on track. We even reach the third checkpoint of the Stoneman Glaciara in Rekingen earlier than calculated. Everything under control.
The steep, technical climb to Bellwald teaches us that our adventure is much more than just a calculation of system weight, wattage and metres in altitude. The trail is so steep that we unexpectedly have to switch to the high-torque but power-hungry E-MTB mode. We watch anxiously as the bars in the capacity display go out. Not that there aren't any power sockets in Valais, but the snack breaks for the body and the battery charging times should ideally coincide. And the later we recharge, the longer the forced break. A bit of dried fruit and a coffee might take 20 minutes, but a really empty battery? Several hours. Time that we no longer have.
End of season, everything closed: no power socket far and wide
And so now our bill is finally mixed up: as we look forward to the planned lunch stop in Bellwald with a loading phase, the place is quiet and empty - end of season. Not a single restaurant is open. Click-clack, at least the stamp machine at checkpoint four is working. And although we only have a few metres in altitude to go to Fiesch, we are starting to get nervous. A handful of jelly babies help me to maintain my mood and concentration. I still have enough energy for the fun but tough descent - and then we find a restaurant in Fiesch after all. 1.30 p.m., battery level: 40 per cent, remaining metres in altitude: well over 1,500 m. That doesn't really fit in with our march table. Knowing that we'll have to sit for quite a long time, we fill our bellies again. Until we get back on the e-bike after 90 minutes with 60 per cent battery charge. Unfortunately, we are now longing for an afternoon nap rather than another 1,600 metres in altitude. But after a few turns of the pedals, the espresso hits our nerves and with it the carbohydrates in our muscle fibres.
We've already managed two thirds of the ascent, so we'll manage the rest. Many hairpin bends make the 1000 metres in altitude from Fiesch to the Fiescheralp quite entertaining. The ascent can also be pedalled in eco mode. That's good, because the technically difficult sections, which will definitely require more motor power, are still to come. Until then, the motto is: Save battery! The higher we get, the more distracting the view of the other side of the valley becomes. The Breithorn, from which we had marvelled at the sunrise in the morning, now comes into view. The mountain now seems unspeakably far away. It's amazing how far you can get in one day on an e-bike.
The battery needs to be charged again shortly before the end of the day
At 17:00, the tunnel at Märjensee spits us out: Click-clack, the fifth checkpoint. Slowly but surely, tiredness creeps up from our legs to our arms, to our heads. We've already been travelling for eleven hours. Just don't lose your concentration now! The trail back to the Fiescheralp is challenging, exposed in places and quite bumpy. Steep counter-climbs have to be tackled with vigour until E-MTB mode can no longer be avoided. We even have to push twice. It doesn't help, we have to charge for another 20 minutes on the Fiescheralp to be able to tackle the last 230 metres in altitude to the Moosfluh at 20 per cent. Of course, we realise that it still won't be enough. But before we run out of daylight, we think this is a reasonable compromise.
The reward comes at the end: 1400 metres down into the valley at the end of the Stoneman Glaciara
The battery indicator flashes red for the first time as the end of the climb to the Moosfluh is not yet in sight. What a load of rubbish with this extra loop! What were Stauder and the route setters thinking? The kind of thoughts that pulsate through your head when the last battery strip fades and the sweat of fear oozes from your pores. Fear that this project, after all the effort and preparation, could end up failing because of these stupid extra metres. But then suddenly it lies beneath us, the Aletsch Glacier. Dramatised by the low, golden evening sun. We could now count every single one of its ice ribs as they work their way through the valley over a length of 23 kilometres. With my tears of joy somewhat blurred, I can make out the outlines of the Aletschhorn, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. It's a sight that even mountain-loving Swiss people have to sit down on a bench for a moment to savour. What perfect timing: sunrise on the Breithorn and sunset on the Moosfluh - it couldn't have been more perfect. And the best thing of all: there's still five per cent battery left in the tank! That should be enough for the remaining 1400 metres downhill, which we now only have to cycle downhill.
Our mood is so festive that we almost forget to collect our stamp at the last checkpoint. Even when I catch a flat tyre on my rear wheel a few minutes later on the rough trail - no problem. It happened. That can't spoil our winning mood. No, it's the small climbs that do it, which we hadn't really expected. Again, the adrenaline brings beads of sweat to our foreheads. We eventually reach the hotel with absolutely zero per cent battery charge on the e-MTB. And exactly as we left it early this morning: in the dark.
Unfortunately, our celebratory mood is somewhat dampened at the moment, because we weren't really able to savour the actually fun last descent due to the time and battery stress, but also because we were so tired. That's why we agree: it's possible to ride the Stoneman Glaciara in one day on one battery - but we can't recommend it. The scenery in Valais is too beautiful, the trails too good, and the food could be better enjoyed with more time. Nevertheless, we are of course proud when we hand in the stamp cards at the hotel and receive the Stoneman trophy - even if it is only a normal stone for us with the e-MTB and not the golden one that an organic biker would have received for the one-day ride.
Stoneman - the idea
The idea and concept came from former marathon world champion Roland Stauder, who piled up the cairns for his first Stoneman route in Alta Pusteria. The idea is to complete a large, designated circuit in 1-3 days. You have to keep a book of stamps as proof of your achievement and there is a trophy at the end. The concept has since been exported with the proviso that each country may only designate one Stoneman route.
Info Stoneman Glaciara
The backdrop
The Stoneman Glaciara route leads between the largest glaciers in the Alps, imposing four-thousand metre peaks and centuries-old mountain villages through the Swiss canton of Valais. The length and number of individual stages with a total of 127 kilometres and 4700 metres in altitude can be chosen individually. The three-day version is perfect as a leisure tour to savour the scenic highlights and local cuisine.
Level of difficulty
Good riding technique required, some paths partly exposed. However, large parts of the route lead along gravel roads that are easy to ride for everyone.
Charging options
Charging in restaurants is no problem, at least with your own charger and removable batteries. ATTENTION: Most charging stations do not yet have a charger for the new Bosch Smart System. Charging options are available here: Checkpoint Bellwald Fiescheralp; Riederalp; Binn, Goms (Blitzingen).
Starter pack for the Stoneman Glaciara
The GPX track and information on the sensible route classification can be found on the Stoneman website. A route map is included in the starter pack and the route is also fully signposted. The tour is ridden anti-clockwise. The starter pack also contains the stamp card, which must be stamped at the six checkpoints: Breithorn, Binn, Reckingen, Bellwald, Märjela, Mossfluh. Guests of the 23 partner hotels receive their stamp card and trophy directly at the hotel, external guests at the official distribution points. The addresses of the partners are listed on the Stoneman website.
The route:
- Stage 1: Mörel - Ernen: 42.9 kilometres / 1990 vertical metres
- Stage 2: Ernen - Fiesch: 34.9 kilometres / 770 vertical metres
- Stage 3: Fiesch - Mörel: 49.3 kilometres / 1940 vertical metres
Trophies
Registered organic bikers who complete the Stoneman in one day receive a gold cairn trophy. Silver is awarded for two days and bronze for three. E-bikers receive a trophy made of natural stone as a memento - perhaps one more reason to cycle the Stoneman Glaciara as a pleasure tour in several stages.
General information
Accommodation and refreshment stops along the route and all important information about the tour can be found at stoneman-glaciara.com
Pack of four - the other Stonemen
1 Stoneman Dolomiti - the original
The original route, where Roland Stauder once piled up his cairns as signposts, leads through the magnificent backdrop of the Sexten Dolomites. The ten-kilometre-long, exposed Demuth Passage (easier bypass possible) is just as legendary here as the view of the famous Three Peaks. If you start here, you have to reckon with the steep climbs typical of the Dolomites and should be in good physical condition. The route is "stamped" at the checkpoints using a wristband, which must be presented at the end at the issuing point. The route has a total distance of 115 km and 4000 metres in altitude. Season: June to September, starter pack: 25 euros, information from Stoneman Dolomiti
2 Germany: Stoneman Miriquidi
The Erzgebirge in Saxony was the winner among the numerous applicants for the German Stoneman version. It starts in Oberwiesenthal and leads up and down easy gravel and dirt roads past the idyllic Cranzahl dam and then climbs sportily over Bärenstein, Pöhlberg and Scheibenberg. At the end, the tour ends at the Rabenberg trail centre, where a little more riding technique is required. The entire route: 162 km and 4400 metres in altitude. Start of the season: 28 April, Information and starter pack
3 Austria: Stoneman Taurista
The Austrian edition of the Stoneman leads through Salzburger Land, more precisely through Flachau. The starting point is Altenmarkt. From here, the route climbs up the high Rossbrand (1768 m) and then is physically demanding and technically challenging on some high alpine passages (Seekarscharte) against a magnificent backdrop: Dachstein, Bischofsmütze and the Hohe Tauern with the Großglockner look on as you zigzag up grassy mountain flanks. Here, too, a one-day forced trek is not a good idea. Not least because of the many inviting huts along the route, which you don't want to carelessly leave behind. Total: 123 km and 4500 metres in altitude (the route was affected by diversions last year). Season: June to September, Information and starter pack.
4 Belgium: Stoneman Arduenna
French fries instead of yeast dumplings! Why not? The Ardennes in the French-speaking east of Belgium may not have long, gruelling climbs to offer, but they do have crisp climbs and beautiful scenery. And when it comes to trails, they even outshine some of their other colleagues. In total: 176 km and 3900 metres in altitude, information at Stoneman Arduenna.
