Rhone Cycle Route Switzerland: Pretty awesome! Cycle tour from the Rhone Glacier to Lake Geneva
Author: Dr Heinz Klausmann
Andermatt railway station stop, 8.32 am. Mr Arnold, the Postbus driver in his uniform and immaculate waistcoat, knows what to do. The bikes are registered. Everything is in order. We set off on time. We reach the top of the Furka Pass at 2429 metres above sea level. Shortly below, we get off at the "Belvedere" stop. Our cycle tour begins at the source of the Rhone. Not at the official starting point of the "Rhone Cycle Route Switzerland" in Andermatt. The view southwards into Valais is impressive. The backdrop of the four thousand metre peaks in the background is impressive. And also the view of the Rhone glacier to the north. A mountain stream gushes from the nearby glacial lake towards the valley. The young Rhone.
"Did you control the brakes"? Ron from Bristol has rattled up the pass from the south on his Harley. He has an inkling of what lies ahead. Heavy panniers and trailers push the mountain bikes down the steep pass road. It's Monday. And that's a good thing. Only a few motorbikes are challenging the bikes on the road. Almost 700 metres in altitude and several hairpin bends later, the worst is over in Gletsch. At the turn-off to the Grimsel Pass, the first beer garden beckons. No time to linger. The high valley of Goms with its old Walser villages awaits us. At "Autoverlad Furka" in Oberwald, the entrance to the railway tunnel to Realp in the canton of Uri, the Rhone cycle route changes to a wide asphalt cycle path. Flat to gently sloping. What a relief. Under a steel-blue sky and 31 degrees in the shade, we take off the jackets we need for the descent.
An alpine cycle path is not a Fietspad
Every dream ends once. After Reckingen, EuroVelo Route 17 shows a different face. The tarmac gives way to dirt tracks. Rough, stony surfaces resist progress. The constant ups and downs along increasingly narrow forest paths cast doubt on the route. A glance at the Bikeline Spiral Book provides clarity. A cycle path in the Alps does not have the same route profile as a "Fietspad" on the Dutch coast. The route to Mühlenbach is a strenuous and sweaty endeavour. Built between 1381 and 1496, the wooden houses of the oldest such village centre in Switzerland invite you to take a stroll. A journey into the past. The present is alive on the N9 before Lax. Lorries, motorbikes and cars force you to realise that although the main road is flatter than the alpine cycle path, the riding fun here is not unadulterated. After a stressful descent to Naters, we happily reach the "Hotel Ambassador" in Brig a few kilometres further on.
Early the next morning, we head through the pretty old town to the imposing Stockalper Castle for a guided tour. Not without pride, the guide Beatrix Bärenfaller describes Kaspar Stockalper, who died in 1691 at the age of 82, as Switzerland's first billionaire. The "King of the Simplon" had the mule track over the pass extended in order to strengthen the transalpine exchange of goods. Patents and trading rights helped the well-travelled merchant to immeasurable wealth. Soon we are back on our bikes. The Rotten, as the Rhone is known in the German-speaking part of Valais, is running grey, sediment-rich water after the heavy rainfall of the previous week.
The valley widens. The route initially runs alongside the swelling river. Later through meadows and fields. And again and again through pretty little villages. In Gampel, the thermometer reaches 32 degrees Celsius. Somewhere here runs the "Röstigraben", the language border between the German- and French-speaking parts of Valais. Cédric Savioz is waiting for us at "Lac Souterrain" in Saint Léonard, the largest underground lake in Europe. After the heat on the bike, the cave, discovered in 1942, offers a welcome cool-down. During a boat trip with a multilingual guide, numerous rainbow trout can be admired as indicators of clean water.
Through vineyards and orchards
Next pit stop in the "Celliers de Sion" with David Héritier. He dispels our concerns. The planned wine tasting can wait. First of all, there is water to refresh us. A multi-media show explains the concept of the co-operating wineries Bonvin and Varone. In the "Oenoparc", they present winegrowing in Valais to tourists with wine taverns, events, vineyard walks, etc. A glass of "Petite Arvine" is the perfect way to say goodbye. This will energise you for the journey to the "Hotel Castel" at the foot of Sion Castle Hill. The Tourbillon castle high above the town shines in the morning sun as we set off early for Martigny. Joggers, bikers and dog walkers are already out and about on the towpath to the right of the Rhône. A relaxed atmosphere along the river as it flows quietly in its canal. Fruit and vegetables now predominate in the fields. The local climate is favourable. The apricots from Saxon are famous for their quality and intense flavour.
The canalisation of the Rhone and the draining of the surrounding marshland at the end of the 19th century were decisive for the economic upturn of the region, reports Florian Rard from Martigny Tourism at our meeting in the sculpture garden of the "Fondation Gianadda". The temple-like museum houses an important permanent exhibition and much-acclaimed special exhibitions. In the basement, visitors are mesmerised by a fantastic car museum with countless vintage cars. Past the well-preserved Roman amphitheatre, the route leads to "Barryland", the headquarters of the "Barry Foundation". Since 2005, it has been continuing the centuries-old breeding of St. Bernards at the nearby "Col du Grand Saint Bernhard" by the monastic order of the "Chanoines". Project manager Marilyne Emery and carer Celia familiarise us with St Bernard Zeus and his habits.
Back on the cycle path, the headwind is annoying for the last 15 kilometres to Lavey. In the noise of the nearby motorway, every little climb becomes torture. Relief at the team meeting in the "Grand Hotel des Bains". Only 41 kilometres to Vevey. The Bikeline map shows a continuous car-free cycle path with no climbs. There are only two arrows on the map before Montreux that promise disaster. The prospect of a rest day is reassuring. Tomorrow we'll be at Lake Geneva! We are getting closer to the Rhone delta. During a break on the riverbank, the clear water in the tributary contrasts with the dark current of the Rhone. The valley stretches out into vast fields of maize and potatoes. The "Chez Marilou" kiosk appears like a mirage in the midday heat behind Vouvry. Iced tea and "Rivella rot" bring us back up to operating temperature. At Villeneuve, we reach "Lac Léman", Lake Geneva. The main road leads through sophisticated and busy Montreux to the tranquil destination of Vevey. The hotel "Les Négoçiants" offers relaxation in the centre of the old town.
Arrival at Lake Geneva
The lake is just calming down in the evening glow when we arrive for dinner at the "Ze Fork" on its shore. The water gently ripples around the shimmering golden fork in front of the "Alimentarium", the food museum. On the rest day, Muriel Bovey takes us through the vineyards of the "Coteaux de Lavaux" World Heritage Site. From high above, there are unrivalled views over Lake Geneva. The wine region is mainly characterised by Chasselas vines. At Melanie Weber's winery in Cully, we taste white wines from different vineyards. Melanie's wine press is more than a hundred years old and works reliably. In 12 hours of tireless labour, she wrings the juice from the Chardonnay grapes harvested early in the morning under constantly increasing pressure. Traditional craftsmanship. On the paddle steamer "Italia", the kitchen serves delicious fillets of perch fried in butter against the backdrop of the Montreux Riviera.
Chillon is reached after an hour and a half. Switzerland's most visited castle shines in all its splendour. Less noticed but even more impressive, the Fort Chillon Museum, which opened in 2020, stands for the defence of neutral Switzerland. The tunnels of the fortress, carved into the rock, provide an insight into the various areas of the Swiss Confederation's military defence. The bus takes you back to Vevey to "Chaplin's World". The life and work of the great comedian are lavishly displayed on his estate. A look at the weather app decides the strategy for the onward journey.
In the heat, we prefer the coastal road with little traffic to the Swiss A1 cycle route with its constant ups and downs through the vineyards. On to Lausanne. The Olympic Museum is located at Quai d' Oursy 1. On three levels, the exhibition conveys the Olympic history, the sporting highlights of the Games and the basis of the Olympic spirit. Inspired by the visit, we head towards our stage destination in Etoy in the spirit of "higher, faster, further". We arrive at the "Afterwork" hotel before sunset.
Stream, river, lake
Exhausted by the heat and the constant ups and downs of the N1, we sink into the futuristic armchairs of the "Roof Top Bar". Only 51 kilometres to the finish. The average speed of 22 km/h allows us to take a break with a cold "Rivella Rouge" at the landing stage in Nyon and take a short breather at the harbour in Coppet. Enthusiastic clapping from the passengers on the paddle steamer "Simplon" spurs us on to keep going. Geneva welcomes us with its landmark, the "Jet d'Eau", a water fountain that shoots up to 140 metres into the sky.
The World Trade Organisation building, the site of the International Red Cross and the Quai de Paquis are quickly passed. The view of the imposing backdrop of Geneva's old town behind the "Pont du Mont Blanc" makes us forget all our efforts. On the way through the lively metropolis, we savour the memories of the start six days ago. More than 300 kilometres away. Almost 2,000 metres higher. What a pleasure to accompany the Rhone on its way. In its transformation from a mountain stream, to a brook, to a river and to "Lac Léman". We enjoyed it and are: Quite a ride.
GPS data for the Rhone Cycle Route Switzerland
The GPS data for the Rhone Cycle Route Switzerland is available on the DK tour portal:
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Info & tips on the Rhone Cycle Route Switzerland
The route alternates between public roads, country lanes and cycle paths. The surface varies from tarmac to gravel. Between Oberwald in Goms and Brig in particular, there are some considerable climbs to contend with. There is sometimes heavy traffic on the roads along the upper reaches of the Rhone and when passing through towns!
Journey
Railway: Take the Swiss Federal Railway (SBB) to Andermatt station. From there, take the Postbus to the Furka Pass (Belvedere stop) in one hour
From Geneva with the SBB the best connections to Switzerland and other European countries
Flight: Daily international connections from Geneva Airport
Worth seeing
It is not possible to see all the highlights along the way in one week. If you have enough time, it is better to plan two weeks for the tour.
Brig: Old town, Saltina Bridge, Stockalper Castle
Sierre: Old town, cog railway to Crans-Montana
St Léonard: Lac Souterrain (cave with large lake)
Sion: Tourbillon Castle, Basilica of Valeria, Oenoparc
Martigny: Fondation Gianadda, Barryland, Distillerie Morand
Lavey-les-Bains: Thermal baths, spa gardens
Saint Maurice: Abbaye Saint Maurice, St Maurice crossed the Alps in 380 AD and became a martyr. In 2014/15, the Augustinian canons celebrated the 1500th anniversary of the oldest monastery in the West named after him, which has existed without interruption.
Vevey: World Heritage Site "Coteaux de Lavaux", Museum, Chaplin's World, Food Museum
Montreux: Rochers de Naye cog railway, inaugurated in 1892, the cog railway shakes its way up from 396 m above sea level to 1970 m in 48 minutes. From the summit, the view extends to the Valais four-thousand-metre peaks in the east and across the lake to Geneva and the vineyards of Lavaux in the west; Territet-Glion funicular railway
Chillon: Chillon Castle, Chillon Fortress
Lausanne: Olympic Museum
Aubonne: Arboretum, extensive woodland with centuries-old cedars, magnolias, oaks and fruit trees; "Forêt japonaise", "Chemin du Lac"
Geneva: Old town with St. Pierre Cathedral, Patek Philippe Museum, Red Cross Museum, European Nuclear Research Centre C.E.R.N., Botanical Gardens, boat trip to the "Jet d'Eau", Île Rousseau / Pont Mont Blanc, local mountain Salève
Information
- myswitzerland.com
- brig-simplon.ch
- siontourisme.ch
- martigny.com
- montreuxriviera.com
- geneve.com
Literature
Bikeline cycle tour book Rhone cycle path, Aare cycle path; scale 1:50,000, 172 pages, 16.90 euros
