Since the fiftieth candle has been burning on my cake, I've been surfing the nostalgia wave. Abba instead of midlife crisis. A 26-inch rigid bike instead of an e-fully. And what does an over 50 do on a rainy Sunday afternoon? Exactly: browsing through old BIKE magazines. I stumbled across a Bernina report, photographed in black and white. A report by my colleague Gitta Beimfohr. She circumnavigated the highest mountain in the Eastern Alps in the late summer of 1999, together with the then downhiller Mario Thoma, two hoteliers from St. Moritz and the mountain photographer Michi Brackenhofer. They carried a lot back then. Up and down. In nasty weather. Wouldn't it be much smoother today, 23 years later? One thing is clear: this mountain hasn't got any smaller. 25 kilometres wide, Piz Bernina (4049 m) and its satellites form a fortress-like barrier between the Upper Engadine and the Valtellina off. It is still not possible to cross the route by bike. Nevertheless, it should be possible to optimise the route. Back then, Gitta's team chose the Pass da Cancian as the transition from the Val Poschiavo to the Italian side of the Bernina - and they were almost biting their teeth out. So our plan was to take the route even closer around the neck of the mountain massif and choose the Passo Confinale for this crossing. According to the map, this should not only make the tour around the "Festival Hall of the Alps" easier, but even shorten it from three to two stages.
"The Bernina trails are the best you can experience on a mountain tour in terms of scenery and riding technique." Xaver Frieser, bike guide from Scuol in the Engadin
But first there's a doomsday atmosphere on the way to the Engadin. It's been pissing since Garmisch. Even when I pick up my two mates Xaver and Raphi at the train station in Scuol at seven in the morning, the rain continues to pour down from the sky. My buddy Xavi tries to brighten things up with a sentence: "It'll clear up at nine sharp. You can take my word for it!" Raphi, 21 years young, geography student, biker and trail builder from Innsbruck, doesn't believe it. I can see that in the rear-view mirror. But the oracle Xaver remains confident as we swing up to Fuorcla Surlej in the gondola in a kind of summer snow flurry and zero visibility. And Xaver turned out to be right: When we get out of the lift at the mountain station at an altitude of 2755 metres, we are each 39 francs poorer - but one experience richer: Meteoswiss rules!
A few last fluffs of snow are still swirling, but the clouds have now retreated in shreds around the peaks of Piz Palü, Piz Bernina and Biancograt. But there's no time for long rejoicing, our schedule is tight and doesn't allow for much dawdling. So we get on our bikes and head down into Val Roseg. A detour into the interior of the mountain massif, which Team Beimfohr skipped back then. Firstly, the Corvatsch cable car did not yet transport bikes at the time - and secondly, the 100-millimetre bikes would most likely have gone to their knees on the subsequent ride through Val Roseg. We, on the other hand, have a lot of fun on the crisp descent. However, we have to be careful not to lose sight of our schedule, because at the end of the trail there are seven more kilometres of gravel down the flat valley. We don't have 20 minutes left if we want to catch the Rhaetian Railway up to the Bernina Pass in Pontresina at 11:04. If we don't make it, our elaborate two-day plan will collapse like a house of cards. We make it. But on the penultimate groove.
Ospizio Bernina - instead of several hours, we only need 30 minutes by train to reach the highest stop on the Rhaetian Railway. It's just a shame that we've missed out on one of the most beautiful uphill trails in the Alps. But this gives us time for a short pit stop on Alp Grüm. The team from back then had spent the night up here for the first time. We, on the other hand, just tuck into coffee and cake on the sun terrace and peer down the very steep right flank of the Val Poschiavo. The moment of truth lurks somewhere there: the as yet unknown crossing from Passo Confinale into Val Malenco. Watch comparison: it could be dark by the time we get over there. So let's go!
But as is so often the case in life: You ponder for nights, prepare a tactic, think about schedules and emergency exits - and then your opponent is tamer than expected. The ride on the best gravel road to Alpe Somdoss at an altitude of 2185 metres turns out to be child's play. A stretcher section, of course. But nothing to wear us down. After a good hour and a half, we've managed the 1000 metres in altitude, including a chat with two shepherds, because their sheep are just parking up the mountain path anyway. The sun is almost kissing the summit of Sasso Moro when we reach the edge of the slope high above Lago di Gera. The two dozen stone huts of Alpe Gembré are already in the shade down there. Xaver and Raphi let the rear wheels fly around the switchbacks, I prefer to play it safe now that our schedule has worked out. The young landlord of the Rifugio Zoia is also happy about this, as he has heated up the barrel sauna on the terrace especially for us.
New territory: the Italian reverse side of the Bernina
Open your eyes. The morning sun is smiling. It has to be like this. We are now as far away as possible from the starting point near St. Moritz. So there's no room for carelessness. But with every turn of the cranks, the anticipation of the finish increases. Val Malenco, the southern balcony of the Bernina Group, is hardly known among bikers. We also get really lost the next day in the direction of Passo Campolungo. We even come across built trails that probably didn't exist in 1999. However, they lead down to the valley floor and Xaver would rather stay at altitude to save energy. Not least because our planned and eagerly awaited hut stop was unfortunately closed. In fact, the tour guide conjures up a great downhill run from his map app all the way to the far Val Malenco. This is where the last tough nut to crack awaits: the Muretto Pass.
Our colleagues almost failed at this crossing back into the Engadin in 1999. Back then, thick fog was gathering on these steep slopes and the downhill trail on the other side of the pass was completely covered in scree. Halfway up the mountain, however, we meet two moped riders who are taking a break in the alpine meadow: "Summit? No problemo!" Indeed: the narrow path has obviously only recently been renovated. Only the gradients are painful, but at least we make it to 150 metres below the top of the pass. Only then do we have to push. But as I reach the highest point, confident of victory, my two companions are already looking down into the Engadin with their joy plugs out.
No trail. Even after more than 20 years, the slope is still a desert of rubble. There is only a hint of a trail in this sea of rocks. Xaver, a riding technique trainer and bike guide instructor, tries two or three times, but gives up again. We also have to stumble down 600 metres towards Maloja with our bikes on our shoulders. For me as an enthusiastic trail biker, this is a real damper. It's hard to imagine how Mario Thoma must have felt. For the top German downhiller at the time, this hike must have been the most memorable experience of this otherwise still magnificent high mountain tour.
The tour: Circumnavigation of the Bernina in two stages
- Length: 107 kilometres
- Uphill: 3110 metres in altitude
- Duration: two days
- Difficulty: difficult
Description of the tour - Stage 1: Surlej-Rifugio Zoia, 59 km / 1364 m elevation gain / 2481 tm
Take the cable car to Fuorcla Surlej (2755 m) and follow the S2 trail down Val Roseg to Pontresina railway station at the end of the valley. Then take the Rhaetian Railway up to the Bernina Pass. Possibly make a detour to the Hotel Belvedere on Alp Grüm, then descend on a trail to Cavaglia into Val Poschiavo. A steep gravel road turns off here that leads up to Alpe Somdoss, then it's an hour of pushing up to Passo Confinale (2628 m). The descent into Val Malenco is challenging in the high Alps before the trail ends in a zigzag flight at Alpe Gembré. From here it is another 30 minutes to the Rifugio Zoia.
Description of the tour - Stage 2 Rifugio Zoia-Surlej, 48 km / 1746 m ascent / 1948 metres per hour
Through the ski area to Passo Campolungo and over a few flowing bike park trail sections to Barchi. A super trail leads over to Chiareggio, staying at altitude, before the steep climb to the Muretto Pass (2562 m), which unfortunately still has an unrideable scree field on the Swiss side (600 metres). From Alp da Cavloc, the last 17 kilometres are a comfortable ride along the Upper Engadin lakes back to Surlej.
Info Circumnavigation of the Bernina
The precinct
The Bernina Group is a 4049 metre high bulwark between the Alpine Upper Engadine and the already Mediterranean-influenced Valtellina. The Bernina and Maloja passes border the 30 x 20 kilometre mountain range to the east and west. A logical clockwise loop is possible by bike. To get the adrenalin pumping right at the start, the unnecessary but technically interesting detour via Fuorcla Surlej (2755 m) with the descent through Val Roseg is worthwhile. The Bernina Pass (2235 m) can either be climbed via a beautiful, albeit very long uphill trail, or you can simply hop on the Bernina Express of the Rhaetian Railway in Pontresina. The Passo Confinale (Pass da Canfinal, 2628 m) includes an uphill stretch, but proves to be great fun on the way down. The Muretto Pass (2562 m) is completely different with its two faces: strenuous, but fantastic uphill - nightmarish downhill.
Arrival
Those arriving by car can park for free in the car park near the Corvatsch cable car. However, travelling by train is cheaper and more environmentally friendly. Thanks to the Super-Sparpreis-Europa-Ticket, you can travel from Munich to St. Moritz (via Bregenz and Chur) for 29.90 euros, for example; journey time approx. 6 hours depending on the connection, info: www.bahn.de
Ropeways
Uphill assistance is only available on day 1: Please note that the cable car in Surlej only transports bikes at certain times: 8.25 am, 8.45 am and 9.05 am or from 3.05 pm. Price incl. bike: 39 Swiss francs (approx. 39.30 euros). Info: www.corvatsch-diavolezza.ch
Rhaetian Railway: from Pontresina to Ospizio Bernina in half an hour! Price incl. bike: 22.40 Swiss francs (approx. 22.60 euros), information and timetable: www.rhb.ch
Overnight stay
If you want to complete the Bernina circuit in two days, you should ideally spend the night in the first possible accommodation after the Passo Confinale, the Rifugio Zoia at the Campo Moro reservoir. This has three advantages: friendly hosts, delicious food - and it's also affordable, as it's on the Italian side. Info: www.rifugiozoia.it
If you want to do the tour in three days, it's best to plan your first overnight stay at the Ospizio Bernina Hotel, www.hotelberninahospiz.ch or at the Hotel Belvedere on Alp Grüm, www.belvedere-alpgruem.ch (Check opening times in advance!). The second overnight stay in Val Malenco is recommended in Chiareggio, www.sondrioevalmalenco.it
Bike shops
Want to buy something quickly or have it repaired before the tour? Best address: Engadin-Bikes in St. Moritz, engadinbikes.com
If you need repairs or spare parts after the descent from Fuorcla Surlej, go to the Bolliger Bike Shop in Pontresina, www.bolliger-bikeshop.ch
The bike shops in Val Poschiavo and Val Malenco look bleak. So better have everything with you and don't crash!
