These topics can be found in the Scuol district report:
The area report on the Scuol hut tour
They are quite obese, it has to be said. They are quite flabby as they hop across the path. As well-fed as the marmots are, it seems to have been a good Engadin mountain summer. But it's far from over. There are still holidays in ten German states. But here in the mountains around Scuol, you don't notice any of that. We've covered 20 kilometres of trail in one go, and we've met more marmots than people. It's the last ascent to the Tuoi hut and we're flat - massively shaken, deeply impressed and very, very hungry. Cranking along the forest track is really good for a change. What a crazy bike day!
The Tuoi is known as a winter hut. However, e-mountain bikers are also slowly finding their way up here.
A few hours earlier: "This is a killer for all non-motorised bikers," says Dani as soon as we get off the train and onto the saddle. The sting at the start may rob us of battery power, but we don't have an eye for the killer landscape now. Here, from Motta Naluns at 2150 metres in the middle of the Silvretta mountains, we can see Piz Champatsch directly in front of us, the three-thousand metre peaks of Piz Minschun and Piz Tasna, then far into the valley to the right towards the Reschen Pass, and behind us the Sesvenna group with Piz Pisoc and Val Plavna, our destination for tomorrow. If you were to pick just one of these mountains at random and move it to Bavaria, it would be a superstar there. Here, one bolide follows the other in a relaxed manner.
No wonder Dani Hiederer is stuck in Scuol. Born in Würzburg, he has lived in Switzerland for 30 years. As a top chef and snowboarder, as a youth hostel father and as the sponsor of the EMTB Grand Tour - more on that later. We soon stop chatting, because it's getting tight. After the crisp ascent on the forest track, we continue uphill on paths. The paths are no wider than cow pats - Scuol serves up a real trail feast. We will cover around 20 kilometres of trails until the end at the Chamonna Tuoi. It's uphill and downhill through the barren high alpine landscape, on trails that are sometimes bumpy, sometimes flowy. We circle down to crystal-clear streams, we shoot across green alpine meadows, and for the finale we heave over boulders and let the marmots whistle at us.
Even in the first third, on the high plateau of Clünas, we are amazed at the hiking trails that seem to be geared towards bikers. Some of them have actually been newly created, explains Dani, with the bikers in mind. This explains the berms and the lack of steps, which are otherwise familiar from mountain paths. It remains challenging, but easy to ride and incredibly varied. Just like the zigzag down into Val Tasna or the speed ride on the other side of the valley.
With all these impressions (and the second battery), we pedal up the final ascent to the Tuoi hut. Inconspicuous, almost hidden, it lies at the foot of the 3312 metre high Piz Buins. It's a topsy-turvy world here: The Chamonna of the Swiss Alpine Club SAC is not known as a summer hut but as a winter hut - for whatever reason. "A third of the guests," explains hut warden Christian (to the interview with Christian Wittwer) the low bed occupancy rate "I have in summer, two thirds in the winter months." More and more e-mountain bikers are coming, he continues, but only a few come to stay overnight. He is relaxed about the peace and quiet in summer. "I'm happy," he says with a smile. He started out as a forester, but at the age of 30 he said: "I'm not going to do this for another 35 years", and became a mountain guide. He travelled from Norway to New Zealand before becoming a hut warden "rather spontaneously". When Christian heard eight years ago that the Tuoi was available, he applied and was taken by surprise. "Probably due to a lack of alternatives." He was a little shocked when the section decided in his favour. The 58-year-old (who looks 40) originally comes from the Bernese Oberland. What brought him to Graubünden? Probably a woman? "No, the deer." Christian is a passionate hunter, and you can find deer in Graubünden. "Women too, but that only came later."
In the evening, the hut owner heats up the soapstone stove and serves polenta plus a glass or two of wine. Next to us, a small high-altitude tour group from the Swiss Alpine Club sits poring over maps. Three long-distance hikers from Germany soon stagger wearily to bed. Only an elderly Swiss couple are talkative and chat to us about Piz Buin, which lifts its striking spike into the sky behind the house. "The only mountain named after a sun cream," says the husband. They probably won't make it as high as they used to, says the wife. But they would like to climb up to the ridge "to look down on Austria."
The next morning, we shoot along the crystal-clear stream to Guarda, a sensationally beautiful Engadin village, without crossing any marmots. Over the years, ex-Würzburg native Dani has probably tested every road in the area for its suitability for cycling. The route follows the slope back to Scuol, down to the Inn via hairpin bends and uphill on paths on the other side of the valley. Dani includes stories about the history of the Lower Engadin that you would be hard pressed to find in travel guides. "He made millions from cow pats," he explains to us in Tarasp with a view of the imposing castle. Dani talks about its owner, the artist Not Vital, who comes from the neighbouring village of Sent, went to Paris and Rome early on, wandered the streets of New York with Warhol and Basquiat and then became successful with glass snowballs and bronze casts of cow pats. And much more besides. Not Vital is one of the most renowned contemporary Swiss artists.
"A few years ago, he married his horse," Dani continues. "A grey horse. It was the craziest wedding I've ever been to and will ever be to."
Dani also has castles in his blood. His grandmother was a castle chef in the Upper Palatinate. Dani himself worked for Witzigmann at Tantris and for the best chefs in Switzerland. He immersed himself in the snowboarding scene, had his own clothing brand, set up restaurants in Zurich and has now been running the "Jugie" in Scuol for almost ten years, which doesn't have much in common with the general idea of youth hostels. Above all, however, he has created the EMTB Grand Tour with his bike colleague Werni Dirren: they guide guests through the wild Engadin mountains and beyond. The stages are up to 80 kilometres long, and it's hard to imagine how much trail there is. Suddenly, there is a converted Mowag in the middle of nowhere, from which Dani serves a multi-course meal - and a fresh battery is the icing on the cake.
They also like to stand in Val Plavna, a lonely, impressive valley. Here on the wide, scree-covered plateau, where the pines are fragrant and you can dip your feet in the crystal-clear mountain stream. We meet exactly zero people on the route. Jackie, the landlord of Alp Plavna, is number 1 and we eat the last of his leftover bread and are served a 12-year-old (!) mountain cheese as a reward. The three bikers who finally arrive have to make do with drinks. Dani has brought another beer for us. One Swiss franc per bottle of the trail ale goes to the Trailuniun, which is part of a cross-valley trail network in the Lower EngadineVal Müstair and Samnaun. With so many trails, there's a lot to drink. Here's to the Lower Engadine!
The Trailuniun is working on a cross-valley trail network into Val Müstair and Samnaun. If you want to help, drink a trail ale.
E-bike tour Engadin - Stage 1: Via Champatsch to the Tuoi hut
The best way to cover the first 900 metres in altitude from Scuol is to take the cable car to Motta Naluns. From the plateau, you then set off steeply uphill on forest paths with a view towards Piz Champatsch. Soon, however, you branch off to the west onto a trail at the foot of Piz Clünas. The route now continues steadily on narrow paths (trail no. 442): flowing down to Alp Laret (Kaiserschmarrn tip!), then jagged and rocky down into Val Tasna. On the other side of the stream, the route shoots rapidly along forest and meadow trails towards Ardez. Continue along the slope on trail no. 446 (the last section involves pushing sections) and finally on the forest path to Chamonna Tuoi.
Tour datesDistance 28.8 km, uphill 1262 metres, downhill 1157 metres, riding time approx. 3.5 h
Driving technique: 20 % light, 60 % medium, 20 % heavy
Stage 2: Into Val Plavna
From the hut the next morning, the route first follows the forest road and then a trail to Guarda, one of the most beautiful villages in the Engadin, before continuing along the mountainside to Scuol. From here, hairpin bends wind their way down to the Inn, and on the other side of the valley, the route climbs again on forest paths that take you to just before Tarasp Castle. Continue along forest tracks and paths into the wild Val Plavna. Across the wide, gravelly high plateau with pine forest and crystal-clear mountain stream, you reach Alp Plavna at an altitude of 2076 metres (refreshments are available - depending on the presence of the Alplers).
Tour datesDistance 52.7 km, uphill 1353 metres, downhill 2330 metres, riding time approx. 4 h
Driving technique50 % light, 35 % medium, 15 % heavy
Switzerland, Graubünden, Engadin: Info about Scuol
The precinct
Scuol is located in the Lower Engadine on the still young Inn river, which gives the town its name - in Rhaeto-Romanic, the river is called En. Rhaeto-Romanic is also the language that characterises the valley. The climate in the border triangle (Austria-Italy-Switzerland) is surprisingly mild with little precipitation. The route network of unspoilt paths is dense and almost endless, but the climbs are steep. It is advisable to cycle with a second battery or to be very, very economical - the alpine uphill trails in particular are power guzzlers. The trails are maintained by Trailuniun, which is building a continuous network of trails in the Lower Engadine, Samnaun and Val Müstair.
Travelling by train
The fastest train connection, for example from Munich to Scuol-Tarasp, takes 5:26 hours. Including three to four changes in St. Margrethen, Landquart and Klosters Platz. Price from 41.90 euros one way. Info at The Train Line.
The journey by car via Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Ehrwald, Imst and Landeck only takes 3:15 hours, and a Swiss motorway toll sticker is not required on this route.
Guided tours
Leave civilisation behind you for three or four days and wind your way through the high alpine landscape of the Engadine: after a day's work with shovel and pickaxe, the trail maintenance team at Trailuniun also offer guided tours in the best areas of Switzerland. Dates and prices are available from Supertrail Rides.
EMTB Grand TourMulti-day tour to the highlights of the Engadine with a multi-course menu for lunch at selected natural sites.
Ropeways
The Motta Naluns mountain railway and the chairlift in Ftan also transport bikes from 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. On Fridays until 10.30 p.m. (17.6.-12.8.). Fare: one-way Motta Naluns 16 euros, season until 30.10.22, information from Scuol mountain railways.
Overnight stay
After the journey, the cheapest place to stay in the centre of town is Dani's youth hostel, which is more like a hotel (also single rooms and double rooms with bathroom). You can also hire e-MTBs from Santa Cruz here. Tel. 0041/81/8623131
Overnight stay in a hut: Chamonna TuoiTenant: Christian Wittwer, 74 sleeping places in 7 camps, season from mid-July to the end of October. Tel. 0041/79/6823223.
Bike shops
Bikeria by Gian Duri Crastan, Alptrails in Via dal'Ospidal 199a has a large selection of rental bikes and a good workshop. Bikeshop Scuol with hire at the valley station of the mountain railway.
Tip for after the tour
The Bogn Engiadina Mineralbad Scuol. Immerse yourself in pure mineral water in the beautiful bathing landscape and enjoy the view of the surrounding three-thousand metre peaks. Open daily until 10 pm.
General information
The Guest information Scuol is located at the eastern end of the main street Stradun, no. 403a, tel. 0041/81/8618800.
Download the GPS data for the EMTB hut tour Scuol
Interview with Christian Wittwer
Christian is the landlord of the Tuio hut in the Swiss Engadine. The Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) hut is located at 2250 metres in the Tuoi Valley. Towering above it is Piz Buin (3312 m) - the namesake of the well-known sun cream.
BIKE: What characterises the Tuoi Hut, Christian?
Christian Wittwer: We are certainly something special because we are better known as a winter hut and there is not so much going on in summer. Our strength is therefore that we are not particularly busy and things are very quiet and relaxed here.
Which guests can be found at your place?
We are quite high up and remote, but not a high alpine hut. So it's not so much the ambitious who come here, but rather the connoisseurs. There are now more and more e-mountain bikers, but we are probably still an insider tip. Otherwise Swiss, Germans and Austrians.
Are the nations different?
Total. The Swiss are rather quieter. They start first thing in the morning, determined and disciplined, and as day guests they arrive punctually at 12 noon. The Germans tend to arrive at 2 p.m. and ask if there is anything left to eat. They are also in no hurry in the morning. The Germans are generally cosy and more communicative, while the Austrians are the most drink-loving guests. For us, these differences are perfect because we don't have any peak times and it's always well distributed.
